GD 1000 driver board. Does it need heatsinking?

M@g 3D, Seoul P4, GD1000, Litemania heatsink.

Do I need to AA the driver to the heatsink, or will letting if float be alright?

I couldn't find any info with a search.

I'm wondering if the GD is the best choice. It will be running in boost mode most of the time if your running on alkaline or NiMH. A Badboy 1000 would run hot off fresh NiMH but be brighter. I've noticed lower output after my cells drop below 3.5 on a GD 750 setup with 3xNiMH. Sounds like your after max output.

Putting the driver inductor down in AA epoxy can't hurt.
I've found one in silicone too and never had problems with it, until a bad DMM shorted it out.

Have you used a Badboy in a 3D M@g? I built my first 3D M@g with a Shark and everybody told me I was wrong to do that. It's still working great though.

I think I fried my GD 1000 last night. I accidentally soldered the LED + wire into the wrong place and it doesn't work now after correcting it.

So I took it out and then hooked up the Seoul DD and it has 3.63 volts at the emitter when running. I didn't do a current check. Looking at Seoul's data sheet for that LED it should be seeing less than 1000ma if it's a "typical" LED.

I have a Maha 808M charger and some Accupower LSD batteries on the way from Thomas Distributing. I'm going wait until I get them and see what voltage and current I'm getting before I decide which driver to put in.

Edit: These GD drivers are pretty resilient. I made a hogs ear out of this one last night, more or less, soldering a wire into the wrong hole. I wired it up correctly tonight and it's good to go. There is 3.7 volts at the emitter now, up from 3.63 in DD with alks. That *should* be about a 100ma increase in current according the Seoul P4 spec sheet. I'm going to let it run for a while to see if the driver heats up.

No I haven't used a badboy in that config, and the SS has been out of stock for a while. If your using a good heatsink and you run it DD on NiMH it will run hot and maybe blue but shouldn't burn out. I do have a SSC running DD on 3xAA NiMH. The heatsnk is 1/8 copper plate AA epoxied to the body. Its never been blue. Its boost circuit kicks in after volts drop.

Greg G said:

M@g 3D, Seoul P4, GD1000, Litemania heatsink.

Do I need to AA the driver to the heatsink, or will letting if float be alright?

I couldn't find any info with a search.

Click to expand...

I have exactly the same setup. Mine floats free at the wires and is fine. no problems at all. 3.7V at the emitter. After 7h the voltage drops when the GD1000 goes out of regulation.

I was surfing through the "shoppe's" forum looking for wiring help for my GD1000 when I came to this thread.

Is this correct? If I have a 3 D M@g with NiMH batteries, I can go for 7 hours or so? That is amazing if that is the case.

Bob E.

I haven't checked runtimes on this particular driver/emitter, but it *should* have run a long time. I ran it on Accupower NiMH LSD's for a while, then pulled the emiiter and driver out of that light and put it in another 3D on Alks for my Mom.


It ran fine with no heatsining on 3 NiMH's.

Re: age of conan gold

joef5052881 said:

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Click to expand...

ban the spammer!

No Kidding he is showing up everywhere, quite annoying

How about a typical sandwich setup? GD1000 driving old-school LuxIII U-bin in AAM@g, any problems?

yazkaz said:

How about a typical sandwich setup? GD1000 driving old-school LuxIII U-bin in AAM@g, any problems?

Click to expand...

Way too much heat & insufficient heatsinking if used with the standard emitter board. Will be very bright but you won't be able to use for more than 10 mins at a time if even that.

I build heatsinked sandwiches with GD917s & they start to get uncomfortable to hold after 7 mins in a finned Mag1AA.

Hi, I'm new with Shoppe drivers, what would be the ideal board to push ~1A using 3 NiMH? How about 4 NiMH?

Where should I epoxy the heatsink?

GD1000 cannot handle 4 NiMH fresh off the charger, can it?

Thanks in advance,
Kurni

You can used the GD series boards for 3 NiMH. With 4 I would use an SOB series board. Edit: I'm assuming that you are talking about pushing 1 amp through 1 LED like a Seoul P4 or a Cree XR-E.

You don't *need* to heatsink either of these two drivers, but if you do, don't glue the board to the heatsink for the emitter. Make a seperate one for it. With the Shark drivers I'll turn a piece of round aluminum that is just small enough to slip into the M@g tube. I make it about 1/2" thick and cut a notch on the side for the wires to run from the switch up to the top of the heatsink, where I have the Shark glued with Arctic Alumina.

I´ve used the GD1000 in a small light engine
without thermal problems (Seoul P4, RCR123).
The heatsink is made of silver.