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Sold/Expired FS- DROP IN G6.35 CERAMIC PR TO BI-PIN SOCKETS

Northern Lights

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 17, 2006
Messages
1,267
Location
Southwest
Withdrawn- DROP IN G6.35 CERAMIC PR TO BI-PIN SOCKETS

A ceramic PR to Bi-pindrop in socket; not machined but fabricated from brass tubing tubing, Mill-Max connectors and Cotronics 940 ceramic potting material. This is a limited production run completed to deplete surplus materials that were obtained to support personal portable lighting design projects.



I have a limited number, only 1, of these tubular fabricated
DROP IN CERAMIC PR TO BI-PIN SOCKETS

64430un1.jpg

$30.00 USD for each socket


Shipping and handling
$2.50 USD to North America
$4.50 USD internationally
Buyer pays shipping, USPS and mailing insurance. Shipping on receipt of payment, PayPal or certified check or money order. I will honor the first "I'll take it" without conditions posted in the thread. This is a private sale, consider the parts used, no warranty or guarantee offered or implied. I check CPF in the morning, Mountain Standard Time, UTC/GMT -7 hours. Private Message the specific details please.

Disclaimer and Features:
This is a private sale from me and I offer no warranty or guarantee on the items to the buyer and user. The parts are not proven or tested for safety, reliability or compatibility of the parts alone or together. By purchasing these sockets you certify you are at least 18 years of age and understand you purchased these sockets and bulbs as is and use them at your own risk.
There are many steps to building one socket, not counting steps preparing jig fixtures and ceramic materials. These sockets accomplish the intended objective. The quality is functional; some tooling marks may be visible. These are different from the machined PR to bi-pin offered other makers.

IMPORTANT:

The drop in feature allows the use of the original socket but the height of G6.35 bulbs will necessitate a major modification to correctly use the reflectors. Do not use this socket unless you are skilled, prepared and realize it may take significant modifications to obtain reflector focus by lowering the socket in the flashlight head.

These sockets work with most G6.35 style bi-pin bulbs. Not every combination has been tried.
The bi-pin-sockets are COPPER Alloy, a better conductor than aluminum, brass, gold, etc., only Silver conducts electricity better.
Reference: (https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/151197&highlight) ,
The socket is fabricated from a brass housing, and typical Mill-Max connectors in the sockets similar to these, notice the fingers:

5650cz5.gif
The socket is fabricated from a brass housing, Mill-Max pin connector that have fingers that grasp the bulb pins in the connectors and Cotronics 940 ceramic. All electrical connections are joined with soldered. The casing and tubes use a proprietary design matrix to lock into the ceramic to reduce chances of slippage that can occur in other systems due to thermal expansion differentials. The socket places most G6.35 bulbs at focal point which requires extensive modification of the pedestal in order for the reflector to focus properly It could place the bulb at an improper height for some reflectors, not all combinations have been investigated.
Pin-connectors are designed to correctly fit typical G6.35 wire pins. This socket as well as other sockets that are made by milling and machining sometimes fit to the pins loosely, that condition is easily corrected.
Bulb centering can also be affected by the bulb to socket fit and socket to flashlight bulb retaining system match up.

INSTRUCTIONS

Most bi-pin bulbs are very hot, some are under pressure, many require cleaning and absolutely will fail if contaminated with contaminates from bare skin, the result of handling. Eye protection is recommended and advised when handling bulbs.
Initial Burn Out and Use:
As in high output potted bulbs, even though the sockets are baked during the ceramic curing process sometimes there seems to be residues that burn out in first use. To keep from fogging the window (lens) and reflector from evaporating substances during first use do a burn out in the open with the head off, do so in a safe manner, some bulbs are under pressure, and most are very hot.

Corrective Actions:
Wear Eye Protection
If the bulb is too loose in the socket, which could occur if it is supplied with unusually thin pin wires then it will easily slide out and will have poor electrical contact. I have not encountered that condition. If you experience that condition , then to fix it that grasp the base of the pin at the bulb with one pair of needle nose pliers and with another pair of needle nose pliers grasp the end of the pin and bend it slightly out ward to the lateral long side of the bulb. Bending the pin without support, bending against the connection to the bulb may break the bulb or pin. To the other pin do the same in the opposite direction. Make the bends very slight. This bend will tighten up the contact of the pin wire within the tubes. An alternate method is to bend the pins closer together or farther apart.
If the bulb does not center, look down on it in the reflector and gently align the bulb applying very mild pressure and bend to the pins. You can easily damage or break bulbs by bending the pins.
If the bulb sets too high in the socket because the bulb contacts the ceramic material then the ceramic be ground down to lower the focal point.
If the bulb is too low PR spacing washers can be used to bring it up to the focal point, foci. It can also be not seated as deeply in the connectors.
If the bulb is too tight, sometimes clipping a portion off the end of the pins reduces the friction and leverage of any kinks in the bulb pin wires and the bulb will go in.

I learned a lot from fellow CPF members, sometimes just reading from their posts, for them:
Thanks for the posts, discussions, inspiration, testing, and all the generosity and encouragement on this project, which I started about years ago:
JS
JimmyM
DonShock
MissionaryMan
JimJones
AWR
FIVEMEGA
LuxLuthor
Plasmaman
Reference:

MY WORK, MY MODS:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/172284 My last 2c-Cell, great review
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/170280 stuff I made
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=158647 attaboy in post #13, great review
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/162767 Tail cap modifications
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/177808 Lithium M85, charging Jack, drivers
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=170347 Lithiuim 5761 2C-size, Jack and drivier
SOURCES OF PARTS:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=168089 Litho Reflectors
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=168089 bulbs
 
Last edited:

Northern Lights

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 17, 2006
Messages
1,267
Location
Southwest
:bump: Good Morning ! It is my week end and I will bump my FS 'cause I got time to be on CPF. Bumps once a week to be reasonable. But time has slipped away and I will be modding less now. I am having a Sell off of my "toys", maybe stepping back from CPF for now. I will miss it and all of you. :bumpit:

FS-1331 lumens, 5761 bulb, small 3C-cell modified Maglite, Unique batteries!
FS- Genuine Osram 64430 Halo Star Bulbs
FS-SHARK DRIVER, NEW, NOT USED
FS-PR to BiPin socket with Welch Allyn 01185 Bulbs
FS- DROP IN G6.35 CERAMIC PR TO BI-PIN SOCKETS
Mag Lite parts, NEW
 

Northern Lights

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 17, 2006
Messages
1,267
Location
Southwest
wow I got mine today. Beautiful, very good job. :twothumbs

Thank you, I do not know why any modders doing G6.35 bulbs did not see this it is unique. Only one going out now. I am cutting down on my modding hobby, not a business so there will not be a second chance probably.
The lights I used this on were 64430. I am assembling a IRC 65W into a mag chargr with one of these.

Since the conectors are soldered in they take the max Amps mill-max assigns to these style of connectors. They have the same style in friction fit and soldered fit, the difference is in the form of the tube not the fingers. I solder them all no matter which initial design I use to fit into the socket tube that holds the connector.
:bump:
 
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