The J bin P7's have a higher forward voltage of course. You can still use the amc7135 drivers, but your time in regulation will be shorter than it would with an "I." The amc7135 is a "low voltage dropout" regulator, but as near as I can tell, it still drops something like .2 volts from the regulator. If you choose to keep the reverse polarity diodes inline, you would lose even more voltage, so you would probably choose to lose them. So, you start with something like 4.2 volts from your cells, drop .2 at least from that, giving you 4.0. J bin P7 can be as high as 3.75VF at that current rate, so you will quickly be below that voltage, even with your massive battery bank. Something like 85-90% of your battery life will be below VF. Now, that isn't a bad thing per say, but it does mean you won't be seeing full brightness. You may want to look in the Der Wichtel buck driver, I think it is rated up to 25V, and running your battery pack serial.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=201981
I haven't really read much up on it, but to the best of my knowledge it is a voltage regulator, not current. I think you hook up your load and adjust the voltage via onboard pot until you see the current you want. I don't know what, if anything has been done to protect against thermal runaway, but I haven't seen any complaints.
Oh yah, another option is the "shark buck" that you can get at the sandwich shoppe.
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.co...oducts_id=1205
As far as I know (I say that a lot) it is a current controlled solution.




) it is a current controlled solution.
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