Quirks Of The Mc2CS Tailcap Modification

Having successfully installed three of these properly (o-ring installed after guts tightly placed through retaining ring), I have noticed certain quirks:

1. You lose the ability to release the switch for off after first use of the switch on high. Once fully depressed for high, releasing the switch results in low and not off. Perhaps a stronger spring mechanism is required in order to break electrical contact. Depressing the switch for momentary low properly allows for off.

2. The rounded cap of the assembly may not be long enough. When the switch is fully depressed, it does not spring back to its previous state as the O-ring only prevents the assembly from falling through the retaining ring and nothing more. The result is a mushy tailcap as a result of the cavity formed between the rounded cap and rubber boot. A longer assembly may help alleviate this particular quirk. The only resolution I have found is to fully thread the tailcap down in order to push the assembly up towards the rubber boot. The problem is that this procedure must be done after every use.

3. There should be a way to clearly demark the respective ohm values of the resistor boards. After disassembly, I was left reassembling and testing to determine which board was what. An etching on the board itself would help prevent this.

Installing the guts with the retaining ring reversed helps increase the rounded cap protrusion into the rubber boot area, resulting is less of a mushy feel. Installation and removal of the assembly become more difficult, however. A larger diameter O-ring would help compensate for overbored retaining rings. In any event, the above issues inherently remain unresolved. Comments? Suggestions?

Maybe give it a try without the retaining o-ring. As far as I know it's only there to provide a pseudo lockout and it sounds like yours is getting hung up. It should work just fine without it, the module just won't be retained in the tailcap.

Removing the O-ring results in the assembly being pushed down even further. Overboring the retaining ring will do the same as well. The second condition essentially remains unresolved.

Interesting. I have a McC2s in my 6p and it doesn't stick on HI. Are you using it in a G2? I've heard about mixed results with G2s. Or, how tight is the assembly in the retaining washer that you drilled out? Maybe it's too tight and is holding the switch in the forward (low instead of off) position once you're in HI.

Check out this thread.

I'm having some issues with mine as well. Mine is medium and low only, will try to find where the resistance is.. It is a lot dimmer than with the stock tailcap:shakehead
Will try cleaning and messing about with it later.

Sverre

adamlau said:

1. You lose the ability to release the switch for off after first use of the switch on high. Once fully depressed for high, releasing the switch results in low and not off. Perhaps a stronger spring mechanism is required in order to break electrical contact. Depressing the switch for momentary low properly allows for off.

Click to expand...

The same thing happened to me. Once I turn it on low, I have to mash it all the way to high or sometimes tighten and loosen the cap to get it turn off. I'm probably going to end up buying a new tail-cap for my C2.

I assumed it was my fault, because I messed up enlarging the hole in the retaining ring, and/or made it a little off-center.

Thanks for posting on this. I probably would have stayed quiet about it, and been embarrassed to admit this if no one else posted about it.

Cheers.

Mine is now working fine

Took it totally apart and cleaned everything. Couldn't find or measure anything to suggest why it wasn't working properly:shrug:

After a lot of head scratching and trying it in several Surefires it is now working fine. Will update if I find out what the issues was..

Sverre

1. I haven't encountered this issue, but I think there are several factors causing this. Make sure you enlarge the hole in the plastic retaining ring only just the right amount, never more than a pinch, or something might happen you never know what. Mine drags just slightly and I think that is perfect. Also, mine didn't come with the retaining o-ring on the button end so I used a slightly thicker one. To install it with the thicker o-ring you need to put the button (with thicker o-ring) in first, then snug the plastic retaining ring down, and then install the rest with the hex screw. This is important since you can no longer push the assembly with the o-ring through the hole in the plastic retaining ring (if you can you made the hole too big).

2. While it would be nicer to have a switch that better matched the size and shape the stock one, I have found a simple solution that works for me. Cut a thin piece of dense foam or other similar material in a circle to fit against the inside of the switch boot between the switch and the boot. This will remove the air gap behind the rubber boot and give the switch a much more positive feeling.

3. The resistors are color coded to indicate their value.
15 ohm - Yellow
22 ohm - Purple
30 ohm - Green
60 ohm - Red

You might want to also check the perimeter of the PCB and file down any nubs. The board may not be perfectly round when it comes to you and that might be rubbing the inner wall.

Wayne