overdriving a controller

I got browning 1 AA variant of the Rayvoc Sportsman extreme and intend to build a rear battery pack.

Since this controller rejects some cells, I might prefer to do 4 AA at 2.4 volts with variable resistor (two parallel, two series). I am wondering if I will blow the controller even with a resistor. I am guessing yes, unless someone can say otherwise.

Why not just wire 4 AA batteries in parallel and have a resistor there. And also swap in a Seoul while your at it.

It might be able to take the extra voltage, but it wouldn't be recommend to run it as such for anything more then a short burst.

I wasn't sure if a controller can blow if higher voltage with current limiting resistor. Reason is I had a 25 ohm resistor and 4 AA on a 3 cell Dorcy 3 Watt headlamp. As soon as I hooked it up, something snapped and the thing only has one level (previously two). It is a 3watt 35 ohm variable resistor, so I can still dial it up. But it was dialed all the way back when I blew it. That is, unless this is impossible, meaning I may have missed something.

BTW. Who has the quickest shipment of Seoul stars around? And what bin is good?

Do you have a link to the light, that might help to determine if the driver can take any overdrive.

Check bin codes here.

Either here, here, or here for Seoul LEDs.

You are so helpfull, Gunner. Thanks.

Got to run. But I actually own the Browning http://www.browning.com/products/catalog/lites/detail.asp?value=003H&cat_id=371&type_id=8343

Which is a rebel upgraded Rayovac Walmart Sportsman Extreme.

I intend to drill or solder iron melt two small holes in Neck of light, then sink two small screws to touch positive and negative terminals. Then, while still keeping usefulness of AA in Head, I could easily attach a single AA to rear (or lithium with resistor) plus two wires with alligator clips to screws (probably hotglued into place, just like my Garrity 3 AA mod), while maintaining pretty much same level of lightness or daintiness of light. Else I might try a 2 AA series with resistor on rear, or a 2 AA pack in parallel. I will add a middle elastic strap if needed. I haven't yet decided 1 or 2 AA's in rear.

The ROV light draws 0.74A when fed 1.2V, 0.761A at 1.4V, and 0.805A at 1.7V, so it appears that increasing the input voltage causes more current to be drawn. If the trend based on these values holds, the light would be pulling 1.2A given a 3.0V input.

If I get another of the ROV headlamps, I can test at higher voltages, but it may be week or so before I have time.

Never mind the Seoul suggestion then. The Rebel is a pretty good LED.

I wouldn't recommend 3v and 2.4v might be pushing it. Don't run it at 2.4v for too long, if the light starts getting too hot or the LED starts to shift blue, turn off the light to prevent further overheating.

I'm glad I was able to help.

Gunner12 said:

I wouldn't recommend 3v and 2.4v might be pushing it.

Click to expand...

Just got done with Browning Phantom 70 mod of power.

The two cell in series with and without variable pot, didn't work. It has some voltage protection, that protects the led and circuit. I could see the led light real white for fraction of second, then out. Fortunately, no harm done.

I took solder iron and started a hole by neck, then screwed in a half inch positive and negative screw to touch back side of metal that run current into head. Clipped a one AA holder (not in mood to mod up the 2 AA for parallel tonight) in back soldered to alligator ends that clip on to my screws.

I got to say, I can feel no comfort difference at all, with this 2 AA conversion. One would need a removeable pack to keep the pocketable aspect. If it rained, I guess you'd take out second battery and cover screws. Were I using light outside in rain regularly, I would permanently attach wires and cover with hotglue and silicon caulk anything exposed.