DURACELL vs ENELOOP

SaVaGe

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I know that the Sanyo Eneloop are good for my Fenix L1,L2 & LOD Q5's
(Q4 FOR THE LOD). How about the new DURACELL NiMh rechargables at 2650 mAh? because my Eneloops are only 2000 mAh. Is there a difference? I know that they are same with the eneloops 1.5V each.

The reason is, just incase eneloops are hard to find the DURACELL 2650 mAh are widely available.
 

Lighthouse one

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THis will probably get bumped to the battery section, but Duracell has the long lasting Nimh batteries now too. I just saw them at Wal mart. The regular 2650 Duracells lose power quickly when just sitting idle ( after they are ...say over 6 months old?) Eneloops lose very little...so the 2000ma eneloops often end up lasting longer than the 2650 Duracells- unless you use them up quickly. Both are 1.2 volt....only alkalines are 1.5 volt.
 

JamisonM

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Yep, this belongs in the flashlight electronics - batteries included section.
I've had high capacity NiMH batteries loose their charge within a week. I'd charge them and come back a week later and they would be dead. With the LSD NiMH batteries I haven't had this problem. In fact, I've gradually replaced all my rechargable AA's with LSD cells. My favorites are the rayovac hybrids. They're cheaper then both the enloops and duracell precharged cells and still perform great. Silverfox did a self discharge study of them and eneloops. Here's the link. Speaking of the duracell pre-charged cells, from what I've read about them; they just eneloops with a different wrapper. With a little searching, you'll find a few threads around here talking about it.
 

LukeA

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The duracell charger charges cells in 15 min., right? That's really high current (4C), and not especially good for them. I use Eneloops and Rayovac Hybrids with a LaCrosse charger. If you are a Costco member, stop by and pick up a few sets of Eneloops. Each set has 8AAs, 4AAA, a not-bad charger, and 1AA-C and 1AA-D adapters for $27. Great deal.

NiMH cells are rated 1.2V, but they realistically run at 1.4V for much of their charge.
 

2xTrinity

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Most of the very high capacity NiMH cells have very fast self dicscharge. That's one of the tradeoffs of cramming more capacity into a tiny package. You get more cpacity but only if you use it immediately, a significant amount of the charge can be gone in as short as week in some caes. The eneloop traded off a small amount of initial capacity for the ability to keep charge sitting on a shelf for al ong time. That means they're practical to use for almost everything, a very nice trait. Also, while many brands,especaillt ones with high capacity, fall dramatically short of their posted mAh capacity even hot of the charger, with the Eneloops you can expect to actually get nearly 2000mAh.

NiMH cells are rated 1.2V, but they realistically run at 1.4V for much of their charge.

And realistically, in high drain applications like bright LED lights, alkalines actualy run lower voltage under load than NiMH almost their entire runtime. 1.5 is the initial voltage of alkaline, 1.2 is the average loaded voltage of NiMH. The fact they're reported inconsistently leads many to believe NiMH won't work because of low voltage -- not a problem.
 

f22shift

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it depends on your charging habits. the eneloops are definitely going to have more capacity if you leave batteries sitting around for weeks. if you are the type of person who remembers to charge before a task, you will get more runtime with the higher capacity ones.

from my experience, an lod would go about 45 min on high with the 800 mah eneloops. on a 1000mah duracell, it would go about an hr. for me, i like to charge my batteries before a task so the higher capacities benefit me. i don't have to change batteries often.

another experience i had with the 2650mah duracells is that they would vent if you overdischarge them. so on flashlights like the l2d where it's has a good waterproof seal, it would end up with a bloated rubber cap as the gas has no where to go.
 

EssLight

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I have a set of Duracell 2650s that I bought over a year ago, and they have worked fine for me. I have put them through 10 charge cycles, and they still have excellent charge retention. I have been careful not to overcharge or overdischarge them. Most of the charging has been with a Titanium TG2800 charger.

If I had a device that would sit around for months before I would use it, and I didn't want to worry about checking the charge status, then Eneloops (or any other LSD cell) would be useful.

The biggest advantage of Eneloops, they maintain voltage under high loads, so they work well in hotwired lights.

As far as rated capacity, 2650 vs 2000 mAh, in real world applications, you won't see much difference. If you grab the Duracells hot off the charger, and run them at a low to moderate drain, yes, you will see a bit more capacity than the Eneloops. But let them sit for a month, and your effective usage time will probably be about the same.
 

DavidD

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I too have had good luck with Duracell 2650s. But then again, I haven't had near the bad luck that others have with any batteries. I did kill a lot of Energizers using a 30 minute (without cooling fan) charger. My Energizer 2500s that were solely used with the 15 minute (with cooling fan) charger, also died premature deaths (loss of number of cycles) but never had the extremely rapid self-discharge. They retained their charge for 2-3 months easily, even right before the charger would blink at them.

My Duracell 2650's were used early in their life with the 15 minute, fan-cooled charger, and then more recently with the two Eneloop chargers (4 indep. w/ slide cover; 2 indep quick) I have charged 2650's, Hybrids and Eneloops and then did runtimes with them noting their time-till-dim durations. Recharging them and setting them aside for 6 months. I then completed runtimes on them after 6 months. None of them seemed to lose much at all. Even the 2650's were pretty much on par with the Eneloops. The 2650's started out with runtimes about 30% greater than the Eneloops, and ended up with runtimes (6 months later) with runtimes about 30% greater than Eneloops. The Hybrids faired Okay, but were actually outdone by the 2650's. I basically use Eneloops and Duracell 2650's and like them both.

Obviously, YMMV.
 
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Nubo

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It's unfortunate that the battery companies make such a big deal out of the notion of "pre-charged" batteries. At the expense of educating the consumer about the advantages of limited self-discharge, imo. I don't understand this approach. The pre-charge is of such little consequence when you consider the whole point of rechargeable batteries is to RECHARGE them. Why then assume that the consumer is so eager to avoid that FIRST charge?
 

2xTrinity

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It's unfortunate that the battery companies make such a big deal out of the notion of "pre-charged" batteries. At the expense of educating the consumer about the advantages of limited self-discharge, imo. I don't understand this approach. The pre-charge is of such little consequence when you consider the whole point of rechargeable batteries is to RECHARGE them. Why then assume that the consumer is so eager to avoid that FIRST charge?
I guess the idea is, if they are out and about and need to load up cells in their camera immediately, they can buy a package, use them once, then recharge them later. That is a nice benefit, but it's trivial in comparison to the fact that they are low self-discharge.

Now, in the case of the eneloop pack that was on sale at costco for a while, while they still used the title "precharged", if you actaully looked at the box at all, the first thing the shopper would see is a comparison "85% after 1 yr VS 0% after 1 yr" between Eneloops, and standard NiMH. I think they're just worried that many people might be scared off by the title "Low Self-Discharge NiMH" as opposed to "Pre-Charged!"
 

abvidledUK

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The pre-charged are also only pre-charged to around 80%, or less.
 

coppertrail

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Over the past several months, I've changed to eneloops in all my AA and AAA lights and have been very happy with performance.
 

degarb

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Where can you buy Duracell 2650's? I have owned mine (Oh about 20 something or more) for over a year and am extremely happy with them, except would like to see the 3 amp hour barrier broken.

Curious and eager to be thrashed by the c9000 crowd. But here is the regime: used them 3 to 12 hours several times a week; 15 minute charger (as I use capacity of 12 batteries a day for me alone) but removed most insulation on cell (careful to replace on lights that need the vinyl.) and put the 15 minute charger on top of an ice pack. I believe I had a few cells develop high resistance before doing this Ice cooling, but none since. I have one 8 bay rayovac charger by bed, but don't trust the voltage shut off and think it might kill innocent batteries.
 

UnknownVT

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Duracell Pre-Charged that are made in Japan with white top surrounding the +ve button - are confirmed rebadged eneloops - nicknamed "Dura-Loop".

see Duracell Pre-Charged Rechargeables - Buyer Advisory ...

White top surrounds -
Duraloop_ends2.jpg


DuraLoop_sz2.jpg

notice the Duracell shoulder is slightly lower and the +ve button slightly longer than my earlier/older eneloop - dated 06-10.

The DuraLoops are also similarly dated (? - embossed on the clear wrapping, but not in the same format) as "7005"

(note: later eneloops - from about 11/2006 on - called "eneloop-R" (link) in other parts of the world - due to the addition of the "R" - registered trademark sign on the end of the name, are lower shouldered with longer +ve buttons)

This week (thru Sat Nov/22) Walgreens has Duracell Pre-Charged AA or AAA 4pks on Sale for $9.99. There also may still a few packs with the instant $2 off coupon attached - which makes them $7.99 for 4.
 

Bones

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...
The DuraLoops are also similarly dated (? - embossed on the clear wrapping, but not in the same format) as "7005"
...

I believe the 'Duraloop' date code embossed along the side of the cell and stamped on the package backer can be interpreted thusly:

The first character, consisting of a number from 0 to 9, represents the year of manufacture.

The second character, consisting of a letter from A to L, represents the month.

The third and fourth characters, consisting of two numbers from 0 to 31, represents the day.

The fifth and sixth characters, consisting of two letters, may represent a batch code.

For example, the date code 7K07HT represents 2007 November 07 (7=Year, K=Month, 07=Day, HT=?).

I've noticed the date code on the package is usually more recent than the date code on the cells, but only by a few months.

I was unable to locate a date code on the Duracell pre-charged cells made in China which are not believed to be re-badged Eneloops.
 
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