Sylvania/Osram Mini 4AA Lantern Upgrade

dom

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These were from Wits'End 's Groupbuy at the Marketplace
I'll delete the link once his thread is closed.
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=177003

2265788907_53b9b39ee1_o.jpg


Hi
As a few people have got these lanterns,though i'd do a step by step on how to upgrade the emitter and/or add an optic to improve brightness/beam.
Comments and different/better ways of doing things are welcome.


Mod 1 :- Change the emitter and modify the tailcap so it doesn't chew the batteries.

Component parts

2266577960_955e6dae67_o.jpg


From top left,clockwise.
Cap ,Diffuser holder/reflector ,Diffuser,Top reflector, Tailcap ,Main body ,Battery holder ,Lens(window) ,Driver,switch and Seoul emitter, Osram emitter.

First thing to do is take off the Cap -run a sharp knife in the joint and roll the lantern around.You will hear the glue crack -then you can just twist the Cap off.

Also you may be able to just unscrew it with a little pressure without using a knife first -my wrist was damaged so i couldn't try this before but since it has healed a bit the seal broke fairly easily on my last lantern-thanks Stereodude.

2265789111_161724a213_o.jpg



Next is to remove the Main body -take off the Tailcap and use a small phillips head screwdriver on the 3 screws.

2265789225_1130a0ac83_o.jpg


The whole lot will now pull apart.

Next is the Tailcap mod. If this isn't done you will most likely have problems like the battery coverings getting chewed or no power -as the edge of the cap will push against the negative side of the batteries in the holder and push it off the contact.
5.5 mm is about the maximum length you want it.
Either use a razor saw or a knife to cut it down to length.

2266578266_5e574c8611_o.jpg

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Next is the emitter swap - using either a Cree or Seoul -both can be soldered on without using any wire,just the original solder pads.

Desolder the Osram -use a small screwdriver to help lever it up as you desolder each connection -there is a recess underneath to get the screwdriver in.

2268480922_376453da6f_o.jpg


If using a Cree -clean up the solder pads with solder wick so it will sit flat.

Prep your Cree emitter with a little solder on it's +/- pads.
Align + to + (both on the left in the pic.

Use either AA,AS or thermal grease and centralize the emitter.If using grease,you'll have to apply downwards force with pliers as you solder to keep the gap to a minimum.

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If just using the diffuser again -reassemble after checking that the emitter is working.

Line up the arrows
2265789021_5baee326b2_o.jpg


Line up the Main body and top section.
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Cheers
Dom
 
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Darell

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Super, Dom! I've been VERY behind on getting this done. I'm glad you took the trouble to start a thread. I'll post here when I finally get 'er done. :thumbsup:
 

dom

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Hey there Darell -just the MAN i need -:)

Will you be able to do the trick with the pix where there is only one pic -but it scrolls over the whole 5 when you put your mouse over it?

Anyway -i'll post these 5 beamshots here for the time being -still have to do the emitter swap out pix.

Cam set:- WB fluorescent ,3.2s ,F4.0

Walls are 10ft apart.


Stock Osram emitter

2266479707_c2d82b4b95_o.jpg


Seoul USWOH and Diffuser
2267269048_31c77ab949_o.jpg


Seoul and 10deg Optic
2267269100_83783ac252_o.jpg


Cree Q2 and Diffuser
2267269148_ffe60c0b51_o.jpg


Cree and 8deg Optic
2266479911_db180eb495_o.jpg


Cheers
Dom
 
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Darell

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Anything for you, Dom!

http://darelldd.com/light/lantern_osram.html

Scroll down a bit past the other images that I stole from you, and you'll see the roll-over. No way to make one image show all five situations. You wouldn't know what you were looking at! I compared them all to the factory shot. I can make different comparisons if you'd like.

Now the big question I have is how are you holding the optic on!? Seems to make a world of difference getting rid of the diffuser. But how does the "beam quality" look without the diffuser? Bright is good, but even light is better! We'll need pictures, of course.
 

Stereodude

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First thing to do is take off the Cap -run a sharp knife in the joint and roll the lantern around.You will hear the glue crack -then you can just twist the Cap off.
I was just able to twist off (with some force) the first two of mine that I tried to open up. No need to play with the knife first.
 

JetskiMark

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Thank you for the nice pics and beam shots. Now to figure out what emitter I want to use in mine.

I am curious about the optics too.

When the stock lantern is sitting on a table, there is a lot of glare when sitting at the table. It works better if it is upside down. Too bad it does not stand by itself that way. I wonder if the optic would be the way to go for this application?

Regards,
Mark
 

dom

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Thanks very much Darell -the beam differences look great with how you did it on your page:twothumbs
Though after taking a macro of the Cree emitter swap -i found i had used a P4!!:ohgeez:

So i'll have to do some more beam shots and replace those in the post above.
I'll replace the P4 with a Q5

The beam is much easier on your eyes using an optic.

Have you any better suggestion as to what environment to take the beamshots in, to better see the beam profile?





The Cree 8 deg optic i used were these
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?p=2107373

The Seoul 10 deg Khatod were these
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showpost.php?p=1866709&postcount=1

I'm now also going to try a Cree 10.4deg Carclo 10200 -though i think once i put in the Cree Q5 emitter -the 8 deg on will be fine.

I have only just had the optics sitting on the emitters for testing - the best stuff to glue them on will be some non acidic clear silicone i think. Just a small amount on the bottom of the optic.

Here's a pic of the optics.

10.4 deg Carclo - 8 deg Cree - 10 deg Khatod Seoul
2267691747_8d022f0e26_o.jpg


The Diffuser holder/reflector has to be filed out to fit over the optics before assembly as the optics will have to be glued on first.

The Diffuser can be take off with a clockwise twist
2265789065_eefd5e87b3_o.jpg



Thanks Stereodude -first post updated:thumbsup:

Hi Mark
As you can see from the beamshots -most of the light is directed down/sideways with the optics and the glare is less than what you get with the diffuser -much easier to look at:)

It lights up the whole table and from 20ft away where i was taking the pix from you can see where you are walking.

Cheers
Dom
 
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cybersoga

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I think what you really need is a 180 degree optic shaped like that diffuser...
 

dom

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Hey Cybersoga
Yeah -i was thinking more like a 25deg optic might be better -but just the 10 deg optic and Seoul is 200% better than original as in making more use of the light.

Cheers
Dom
 

Darell

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I was just able to twist off (with some force) the first two of mine that I tried to open up. No need to play with the knife first.

Yes, thanks for this! I just went and unscrewed mine! Easy as pie. If more grip is needed, a sheet of that grippy shelf-liner, or the actual "jar opener pads" would do the trick, I'd think. Just hold the clear plastic window tight and unscrew the lid.
 

dom

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Alright -have just mounted the Seoul Khatod 10deg optic with some neutral cure clear silicone rubber.

Also didn't modify the Diffuser holder/reflector as i glued the optic after assembly.
Will let set overnite and see how the beam compares to the original shot without the silicone on the optic and see if i can knock the optic off by bouncing the unit off the ground a few times.

2270796096_fa69bca569_o.jpg

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Cheers
Dom
 

dom

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I also think with a bit of care and the right tools you could swap in a Seoul without taking the whole lot apart.

Think i'll try that on my last lantern.
 

Stereodude

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I'm gonna have to get me a few Seoul P4 U bin LEDs and the 10 degree optics. The output from the lantern looks great with both of them installed.
 

dom

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Hey Stereodude -yes ,it looks like that is the simpler way to go and it also makes a GREAT flashlight:D
I'm going to silicone the top reflector to the top cap so you can unscrew it and they'll stay together for when you might need it as a flashlight.

I also gave the lantern a good thumping around and the optic stayed on -looks like it stuck on real well:)

Have yet to get the Cree Q5 one going and have to see if i can do an emitter swap without taking the whole lot apart-will do that tomorrow.

I'll also try a reflector - both the 17 and 20mm Seoul Khatod -they may work as well.

I took another beam pic with similar conditions and under close scrutiny of the old and new pix i couldn't see any beam degradation from the silicone -though i imagine there must be a little bit.


Cheers
Dom
 
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dom

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Well -finally did an Seoul emitter swap without taking the whole lot apart.

After taking off the top cap get some pointy pliers ,push down on the diffuser and twist clockwise. You could maybe use some rubber or something if you want to re-use the diffuser.
2285925258_efb8772abc_o.jpg



Next is get the emitter off. Hold the body in a vise (just tight enough so it won't pull out) and use long pointy pliers or similar to pull on one side of the emitter as you apply a soldering iron.
It will help to tin the iron just before you apply it to the solder pad.
2285135879_f6542576c1_o.jpg


Next is to check the polarity and make sure you are putting the Seoul on the right way.
You can see the "+" on the right.
Apply some AA,AS or thermal grease and solder away -make sure the gap is at a minimum.
2285925306_24912ce70c_o.jpg


Job is done.

Just need to either put the diffuser back on or silicone on an optic.

Will do the Q5 Cree and optic tomorrow and test for brightness/beam quality tomorrow.

Cheers
Dom
 

dom

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Did the Cree Q5 swap -

Seoul 10deg optic / Stock
2287587549_b28a810b31_o.jpg


Cree Q5 WC 8deg optic / Stock
2287587573_ae3e7461ae_o.jpg


Cree with 10.4deg Carclo / Stock
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Cree with 10.4deg Carclo (low setting) / Stock
2297367649_af18a4d330_o.jpg


Cree with LC1-M Ledil optic / Stock
2386611729_4234fbfdbd_o.jpg




Cheers
Dom
 
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dom

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Hey Darell
I'm going to try the Carclo 10.4deg optic tonight -was going to do that as well the other night but i have to silicone it on first as it rocks on the Cree dome and points to the side a bit if not glued.

Should be a much smoother beam as it is slightly diffused instead of clear like the 8 deg optic and sits about the same height as the Seoul optc.
I know you are hanging to use some of those Cree emitters you are stockpiling:grin2:

Your welcome Illum -thanks.

EDIT: Added pic of the Cree with 10.4deg Carclo in the pic above.This gives the most even beam so far -very nice:)

Cheers
Dom
 
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