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Thread: epoxy free GITD method

  1. #1
    Flashaholic* yaesumofo's Avatar
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    Default epoxy free GITD method

    Hi guys I don't remember if I posted this or not and I am too lazy to check so here it is as clearly as I can describe it.

    Pretty simple really.
    In the case of a glow in the dark ring for the mule here is what I do.
    I have some strontium aluminate (this is the best glow in the dark pigment available).

    I mix some with this stuff made by a company called sculpt. it is liquid polymer clay.
    I mix enough of the SA into the LPC I check it in the dark to determine the density of the pigment.
    I mix it until I have what I want. before application I find the mixture to be a little thicker than white glue maybe 2 X thicker.
    Then using whatever method you feel comfortable with (The best is to fill a syringe with no needle with the mixture) this gives you perfect control.
    anyway you lay down a bead of the SA LPC mixture down on the Carbon fibre disk (that is what I am using) the material lays down on the disk forming a nice meniscus. I like to do several at a time. you have an oven preheated to 200F (Check this on the bottle of LPC) and bake for 15 minutes.
    The end result is a nice hard finish. you can sand immediately if you want to. if has the consistency of a ceramic but is slightly softer. if you press a sharp object into the material it may crack it.
    don't use too much just enough to cover the space needed. if you have made the SA LPC mixture correctly you will not need to layer it. LPC naturally hardens clear with the SA mix it hardens opaque whitish.
    Give it a try.
    Once you are set up it is really easy and quick.
    you can apply GITD to anything which will tolerate 200 F (again doble check this) . the results are clean and repeatable.
    Take care.

    BTW
    SA = strontium aluminate
    LPC = Liquid Polymer Clay

    This method is about a GITD disk. you can do lots of stuff with the mixture. I have put beads around the emitter holding area of an O-Sink. this makes a perfect glow when the heat-sink is installed.
    Basically anything which can tolerate the heat of the oven for 15 minutes can have a great glow applied to it. even many plastics and acrylics.

    Since I already have the "fixins" it is an easy setup for me.
    I much prefer it to the Epoxy method which I find messy. There are definitely times when the epoch way is best. there are also times where I just couldn't even come close to the fineness of this with epoxy.
    One other advantage is that this is sand-able right out of the oven. I hate sanding epoxy. IMHO it can't be done unless completely and fully cured and then some.


    Yaesumofo
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  2. #2
    Flashaholic* Amonra's Avatar
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    Default Re: epoxy free GITD method

    i thought that the GITD powder was harmed if heated

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  3. #3
    Flashaholic ackbar's Avatar
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    Default Re: epoxy free GITD method

    Thanks!

  4. #4
    Flashaholic* yaesumofo's Avatar
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    Default Re: epoxy free GITD method

    No the type I use, strontium aluminate, is not effected by heat (at this low level), I have now done this numerous times and the effect is great.
    Yaesumofo

    Quote Originally Posted by Amonra View Post
    i thought that the GITD powder was harmed if heated
    Support your local flashlight builder.
    Buy American. Stop crying and start Buying.
    Flashlights are tools. Period.

  5. #5
    Flashaholic Wok's Avatar
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    Default Re: epoxy free GITD method

    Thanks Y......tried Polymer Clay from Kato.Its flexible after curing, beauty about it is I turn it over to have the particles at the surface. The piece can then be relocated & if a colour change is needed...easy to remove

    I make pieces paper thin....clear enough to read text through.

    A word of caution...don't overload the clay or the mix won't flow/level leaving bubbles.

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