Aquarium Fluorescent to LED

Norm

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The driver for the fluorescent light in my small aquarium has died, I had some old luxeons sitting around, I found some aluminium left from an old antenna project and this is the result 4 X luxeons running at 320 mA. The power supply is AC so I added a bridge rectifier and two diodes in series to drop the voltage and therefore the current to 320 mA. Everything seems to run just warm. You can see I used the original fluorescent contacts by making an insulator from some fibreglass strip.
You can see in the second picture I added another piece of aluminium at right angles to the first to increase heat sink area, glued with AA.

tank1nm6.jpg


tank2zc9.jpg


tank4zz2.jpg
 
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nein166

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Nice how big is the tank?
Is there any flicker noticeable?
I Had a single luxIII over a 3 gallon hex that worked nice.
I used a transformer 3vDC and a Nuwai driver.

IMG_1015.jpg
 

wirebender777

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Sorry if this is a dumb question, but don't you have to have a driver? Just wondering since I couldn't see one and none was mentioned. I'm looking to do something exactly like this. I plan on using a couple of Cree Q5(WG) @ 1Amp with a spot reflector (6 degree) to achieve shimmer without having to use costly (and hot) metal-halides.
 

Fulgeo

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Interesting. I wonder if this setup would have an additional advantage of not promoting alge growth in the tank. I believe LED's generate a very narrow wavelength of light.
 

Norm

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Sorry if this is a dumb question, but don't you have to have a driver? Just wondering since I couldn't see one and none was mentioned. I'm looking to do something exactly like this. I plan on using a couple of Cree Q5(WG) @ 1Amp with a spot reflector (6 degree) to achieve shimmer without having to use costly (and hot) metal-halides.

:welcome:
No driver, direct drive four luxeons in series.
There does seem to be less growth on the tank.
Norm
 

wirebender777

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I have more to learn then! Direct drive? How is this achieved and why, then, does one need a driver (if you don't mind)?

Some algae is vital to the aquarium, we would like to limit it, of course. There are some new products on the market (Powerbrite by Current and Aquabeam by TMC (overseas)) that provide accent/effect lighting (i.e. shimmer effect). These units are not to be used alone, like the stand alone leds from solaris and aquaillumination which are very expensive. I was just hoping to reproduce basically what the powerbrite does, but with greater intensity and have the ability to place the lights where I want above my aquarium.
 

wirebender777

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Ok, I read a little about the rectifier. Is this correct? The rectifier converts ac to dc, and the diodes decrease the current (what does wiring in series do?) Would the correct order from the wall socket be rectifier, diode, diode, + end led, - end led, back to rectifier? Sorry, I know nothing about wiring (electrical). My wiring experience is limited to my trade, handcrafted wire jewelry!
 

wirebender777

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By the way, nice job!! Don't worry about explaining all that stuff I asked about, I read ALOT last night and think I understand. However, I was wondering if you have a splash guard over the lights or use an aquarium cover and how salt creep is effecting things?
 

Norm

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There is a cover over the light, no salt it is a fresh water tropical tank.
I should add a driver to the circuit, it was put together on a rainy Sunday so I just used whatever parts were at hand.
Norm
 
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