Your views on the SL Keymate

I recently got the Streamlight Keymate for a useful clip on LED. Although I am impressed by the beam I do not rate this light very highly. My main gripe is that the bezel is just too easy to work its way undone. Although I haven't lost the bezel yet I can see that given a chance that's exactly what's going to happen. Obviously even if you were lucky enough to find the bezel there is still a good chance that one or more of the tiny button cell batteries will get lost! I was also disappointed in the way the internal switch was arranged and its quality.

Whilst I really like most of the Stream Light range this samll LED leaves me disappointed. Maybe some will argue that price point it's aimed at means that it should not be judged too critically. I dont hold with that view and think that SL could have thought out and produced a better product than this? What do guys think?

All thoughts appreciated.

Doug

Doug

I felt the same way about the bezel. It was too easy to turn. I put some silicon lube on the threads, and it gave it a much better feel. It is more secure now. I has a definite "cool" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif factor. For the price and the Steamlight name, I think it is a good light. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Cheers

Jody

I have to agree about the looseness of the head. But if you're fortunate enough to be able to add an extra battery, and still be able to turn it on, then the head feels very much like an Arc AAA. Very secure. And AWESOME brightness.

BTW, does anyone know what kind of LED Streamlight uses in the Key-Mate? I recently changed the LED in one (originally a VERY ringy green) with an AB-acquired 9200 mcd 5mm LED. The 9200 one was whiter, but the Key-Mate's white LED's are MUCH brighter (though both of mine have a slightly bluish tint).

Oh yeah, that plastic lense is very flexible and will pop out, if coached properly. With the lense out, the LED assembly can easily be removed from the front. I haven't actually tried it yet, but I believe that a couple of thin drops of solder (say, 180 degrees apart) on the rear edges of the silver washer will add enough extra contact to allow it to easily work with five (5) batteries. The front edge of the body must make contact with this washer to complete the circuit. Of course, such would certainly void any warranty. My first Key-Mate was able to digest an extra battery without any problems. I have a second one, however, that will not turn ON with 5 batteries until I dropped a thin strand of wire onto the washer from the rear, to act as a spacer. I may try to post some pics later.

Hey bucken, gettng any close to those photos? I bought a keymate after reading you post about putting 5 cells in one, but haven't been into town to get an extra cell yet.

Just curious, but what kind of button cells does this SL use?

thanks,

TD

(4) ea. LR44 1.5 V. The ones in mine are labeled "L1154". It is brighter than ARC AA LE with 4 cells, and bucken reports putting 5 cells in one of his.

[ QUOTE ]
bucken said:
...after trying it with 5 batteries, I ain't NEVER going back to 4.

[/ QUOTE ]
bucken's awesome Keymate (w/beamshots)

Shankus,
I hadn't updated with photos because I thought that this thread kinda died. Let me start by saying that I do NOT recommend dis-assembling the head. You will assuredly create a cutout in the plastic lense and, as I will show later, there are alternative ways to make it work with an extra battery. I'll also mention again that I replaced the LED in one with a 9200 mcd white Nichia (thanks to AB), but found the original Streamlight LED to be MUCH brighter.

It should go without saying that any modification to the original design would certainly void any warranty, and is done at your own risk.

Here's a shot which shows a notched cut-out at the top edge of the lense. I used a very sturdy needle to get through the soft, plastic lense and pop it out. Even though it appears to be glued, I have removed the lense from 3 different Keymates, and NONE of them were glued. They are, however, snapped in very tightly.


The next photo shows what the head looks like, dis-assembled. The reflector assembly gets removed from the front of the head, after the lense is removed.


The next photo shows how the end of the body must make contact with the steel washer on the reflector assembly in order to complete the circuit. Also note the teflon tape on the body threads... The tape can be used to tighten up the head so it won't turn so freely.


The following photo shows a reflector assembly that I modified with a 9200 mcd LED. Notice that I used a left-over piece of the LED lead to enable the end of the battery body to contact it sooner.


The next photo shows a much simpler method of getting the body to make contact sooner. I took a single strand of wire and used a fine point tweezer to drop it onto the steel washer inside the head assembly. This can easily be done WITHOUT dis-assembling the head. All you are trying to do is allow the body to make contact with the steel washer sooner, to compensate for the added length of the extra battery.


This last photo shows the steel washer (contact point) where the body must make contact to complete the circuit.


Another method I've used successfully is to add a small drop of solder on the front edge of the battery tube wall. I used 2 drops, 180 degrees apart. You may need to file down the solder if it extends past the outer edge of the body tube.

Those are great pictures and an excellent explanation.

I had not planned on replacing the LED in mine, I was curious to see the pics of your solution to Keymates that don't like the 5th cell.

I haven't put a 5th cell in mine yet, but I did apply voltage from a 7.67 V transformer that I have, trying to mimic 5 cells at 7.5 V. It glowed very blue, and not very bright, but I suspect this is due to the ripple voltage of the transformer. It is also possible that my LED is just not up to par with yours.
Either way I will still try the extra cell, and it is still brighter than the ARC on 4 cells.

I'd also add that the head on my Keymate isn't as loose as some describe theirs being. The teflon tape is a good solution to that, and another would be to use a thicker O-ring.

Bucken, thanks for the information and pics. I already like the Key Mate in its original form, but with your "modifications," this light will really rock!