My Quick LiteFlux LF2X Review

this_is_nascar

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I received (3) of these several weeks ago and have been EDC'ing one of them ever since. My primary intent of the LF2X is for its ability to produce low level lighting. I keep this unit set at the lowest setting on P1 and something less than 50% (I'd estimate 20%-25%) on P2. For these tests, I used the default settings (P1 @ 15% and P2 @ 50%). None of these (3) lights arrived with any type of instructions or directions. I had to ask around on CPF and someone finally pointed me to a downloadable .PDF file. I must be honest, even with the instructions, I had one hell of a time programming this thing. With a bunch of help, I now know how to program P1 and P2 and how to reset the light to factory default. That's about all I'll ever need this light to do for my needs.

As others have already mentioned, the packaging was pretty nice, with a nice little supply of extras, including o-rings, split-ring, neck chain, pocket clip and key-chain connecting device. I love the pocket clip setup and have been using it from day one. The key-chain connecting device is a bit less impressive, mostly because it can (and will) come detached too easily. I've already mentioned the programming of this light was a mess for me. I know I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer, but don't consider myself stupid either, but even after having the directions I was a bit confused. Now that I know how to set P1 and P2, I"m happy. That's the only thing I'll ever be configuring in this light. As with all my AAA and AA based lights, the Energizer E2 lithium (L92) is my preferred choice. I don't want or do I care for rechargeable cells, so the fact that the LF2X will run nicely on 10440's cells is pretty meaningless for me.

Here's the output of some of the testing that I've done so far. I've color-coded the legends so that each light has the same legend color in each for consistency. For example, Unit #1 is RED in each chart and even during multiple tests in a single chart. It better allows you to focus on a single light to see how it performs for each test.


This 1st chart shows how each of the (2) lights perform on the default P1 setting. P1 represents 15% output, per the folks at LiteFlux.

E01-a.jpg




This 2nd chart shows how each of the (2) lights perform on the default P2 setting. P2 represents 50% output, per the folks at LiteFlux.

E01-b.jpg




This 3rd chart is a blend of both charts, showing all the captured data up to this point. It should be easy to tell which plot in the chart represents alkaline vs. L92.

E01-c.jpg


What really drew me into even getting the LF2X was its ability to produce low light. It's not the lowest I've even seen in a multi-level light, but it is for a 1 x AAA based light. Using that lowest level for dark-conditions is really nice for a variety of tasks. On P2, I'm set a bit brighter, but low enough where I have quite a bit of run-time available.
 

regulator

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Nice graphs - thanks for your time and effort. The LF2X is very impressive with the L92 cell and P1 (15% output).

I like this light a lot since it can be both a long running emergency light and also bright when needed. I also find myself using the User mode a lot since it is easy and quick to adjust. I like varying the setting from the lowest output to something just below the 15% setting for use around the house.
 

regulator

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The LF2X also has very impressive regulation from the graphs I have seen - as long as you are not running at an insane output level for an AAA light that drops the voltage of the battery under extreme load.
 

Crenshaw

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thanks for the runtimes TIN :D

two questions...

is the low lower then the NDI's low....(with 10440s, and alks?)
hopefully one of you two NDIs is still working enough to test this..

does it get hot as fast as the LOD does with 10440s on 100%?

thanks!:wave:

Crenshaw
 

this_is_nascar

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thanks for the runtimes TIN :D

two questions...

is the low lower then the NDI's low....(with 10440s, and alks?)
hopefully one of you two NDIs is still working enough to test this..

does it get hot as fast as the LOD does with 10440s on 100%?

thanks!:wave:

Crenshaw

I'll check tonight. I only tried the 10440 for a few seconds.
 

arty

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I have an LF2 SSC, not the LF2X, but I would bet that the low on the Liteflux is lower than the Nitecore, from reading reviews.

My LF2 SSC low is set at 1 lux @ 1 meter. This is about as low as I could get from the Novatac.
 

bltkmt

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I love this little light, and have it set (thanks to Khoo) to P1=lowest low and P2=100%. In hindsight, I should have had P2 set to something in between as the 100% level can be accessed easily enough, but I am easily too dumb to change it...the UI is complicated at best.

This is currently my EDC light...and works great as a nightstand light as well.
 

Crenshaw

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hey TIN, dont worry about it, mine arrived!

thanks for the answers guys, yup its truely, VERY much lower.

wow, if the guys who think the UI for the NDI could see the UI of the LF2..:poof:

just beginning to get the hang of it.

Crenshaw
 

rotototo

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A quick question: you comparative output scale; is it the same for every runtime test you do? For instance, is a rating of 2000 from your E01 graphs the same as 2000 on this graph?
 

this_is_nascar

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A quick question: you comparative output scale; is it the same for every runtime test you do? For instance, is a rating of 2000 from your E01 graphs the same as 2000 on this graph?

Yes, absolutely. The only time that is not true (and I usually mention it in that particular review) is when metering very bright lights vs. these not-as-bright lights. In the case of those bright lights, I add a spacer to increase the distance between the light source and the data meter (~3" to ~6").
 

Crenshaw

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TIN, i hope its not too much trouble, but could you by any chance do a plot of the light going from lowest to highest, and from highest to lowest? because its really hard to tell when its at a certain level, with a graph like that, one could look for the %output you want, then look for the time...

thanks!

Crenshaw
 

this_is_nascar

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TIN, i hope its not too much trouble, but could you by any chance do a plot of the light going from lowest to highest, and from highest to lowest? because its really hard to tell when its at a certain level, with a graph like that, one could look for the %output you want, then look for the time...

thanks!

Crenshaw

I'll have to check to see the minimum logging interval that my data logger is capable of. I've always kept it on 1-minutes intervals.
 

Gatsby

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I have a LF2 SSC as my keychain light and it has been a workhorse. Like TIN I wanted the low low and have mine set to just a hair above lowest as P1 and around 50% as P2 - which settings work great as a keychain light. I've had mine on my keychain now for around 6 months or so, at least, and have not babied it at all. It has travelled back and forth to NY for a few months getting banged around in all sorts of bags, pockets, etc... The HA is showing some wear but has held up extremely well given the hard use. Some wear on the edges and a few mars, that is it. I've been very pleased with this light on lithium primaries - for me it is the perfect step up from the Arc AAA that used to be on my keyring. Programming is a nuisance but the benefit is that once programmed you have a perfectly easy and intuitive two stage twisty, which is all I need in a keyring light. Really fantastic little lights and somewhat underrated - I think many are intimidated by the programming and should not be - it is perfectly usable right out of the box as a two stage twisty, with the benefit of being able to change those settings should you care to do so. I've gone back to my LF5 after a bit if a hiatus (was carrying my Jil JCR2 IT while travelling due to the really small size, along with the LF2) and it is also a great light.
 

ntalbot

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I don't post much, but I have been so impressed with my LF2X I have to voice my support for this great flashlight. I bought a Q4 LOD at the same time and did a lot of comparing between the two. Well, the LF2X is on my key chain and the LOD is on the shelf. The LF2X has a great beam -- very smooth, no rings at all. The output on a 10440 is awesome. It's not quite a bright as the LOD on a 10440, but it's pretty close and it heats up a lot slower than the LOD. Once you have set the levels you want, the UI is great. Setting the levels takes a bit of practice. What you have to know is that you need to switch from p1 to p2 etc really fast to activate various mode changing features. I was doing it too slow. Once I figured that out it was relatively easy. BTW mine came with an instruction sheet that was pretty good. The default settings are great, although I did have it set up for about 25% and 100% power for awhile. I like the 15% 50% defaults better though for longer battery life. My only gripe is the attachment mechanism. It's innovative, but it makes the flashlight a bit too long for my liking. So I took off all the attachment stuff and drilled a small hole in the side of the thingy that protrudes from the end of the flashlight and put a small split ring through it. It helps to have access to a good drill press to make that hole. My LF2X is now only tiny bit longer than an LOD. My dream would be for them to make a 10280 body for it with a small lug at the end for a split ring. Then it would be sort of like a Draco, but for a lot less money than a Draco. Anyway I am not complaining, it's small enough as it is and the extra battery capacity of the 10440 is nice. I have discovered that weight is as important as size for my EDC. I used to have a Orb Raw NS: fantastic EDC, but surprisingly heavy for its size. Anyway, sold it and used the money to buy the LF2X AND an LOD and have never looked back. Just got to figure out which lucky friend or relative gets the LOD.

Cheers,
Neil
 

BentHeadTX

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My LF2X has been found after well over a month of it being gone. :)
The quick release did just that and it fell of my keychain in my car and rolled under the seat and slid into the adjustment track. My wife adjusted the seat forward and the light rolled out.
The quick release needs to be locked out so that won't happen again, add that to the programming pains equate to my issues with the light. I'll lock it out and figure the programming out one of these days and have a great keychain light. Gripe fest over!
The beam quality, color and output at 50% is very, very good and makes this light a keeper. (My wife said for over $60+ it had better be!) The snap-on defuser makes a great area light and it has long runtimes with the Eneloop I feed the thing. When I reprogram, I'll set it for about 2 lumens on low (3%?) and leave the default 50% for high to keep the runtime up and the heat down.
The scallops on the barrel are cut in such a way to give grip without chewing up my keys or pocket. Next weekend I'll try to reprogram the low and start to enjoy my long lost light some more. My wife has already laid claim to the EO1 that was to replace the lost light so nothing is wasted. :rolleyes:
Overall, I am content with the LF2X as the warts can be overcome rather easily...better to learn a complex UI and mod the release than put up with bad HA3, poor beam quality, poor regulation, bad threads, LEDs off center etc.
 

arty

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I have an LF2 that I really like for nightstand low light use. It is handy and has a nice beam. The low is really low.
Has anyone used these Lightflux lights over a long period of time? I wondered how they hold up over time???
 
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