Polarion PH40/50 threads & O-rings

I thought about putting this in Patriot36's Polarion O-ring thread, as this is a related matter, but that would clearly have been too much of a hijack.

Some while ago I opened up my PH40 by unscrewing the body, and at the time I was asked to post some photos. Then before I could do so, Lips (IIRC) posted his own, so I never got round to doing it.

The O-ring thread, where there has been mention of diving with the PH40/50, has now prompted me to post on this subject. As some of you may know, I have dived with my PH40 to >30m (>100ft) and it is a spectacularly great light – nothing else comes close to its performance underwater.

I must however caution members that it is not officially rated by Polarion as a dive-light. I have noted here that at least two other members are considering diving with theirs, so I thought I had better point that out, just in case there was a problem.

Before I took mine diving I decided to prepare it properly, by undoing the joints, cleaning the threads and properly greasing the O-rings. The body join proved very stiff to undo, and on examination there proved to be only one O-ring there, where I had expected to see two. The threads were wrapped in teflon or PTFE tape (I'm not certain which). I cleaned this off, and then re-greased the threads and O-ring properly with silicone grease. Here are some pics of the disassembled light, including close-ups showing the 2 threaded joins (body and tailcap).

Component parts after disassembly

Inside of head, showing battery leaf-spring contacts etc

Tailcap thread – spare groove is visible, so two O-rings can be accommodated

Body join thread – note that there is no spare groove to take a second O-ring

It should be noted that the 2 threads (tailcap thread and body join thread) are not the same size, and that there is no groove that could accommodate a 2nd O-ring on the body join. This lack of space to take a 2nd O-ring the only reservation I have about recommending the PH40 as a dive-light.

I will continue to dive with mine, but other members will have to decide for themselves whether or not to risk it. Ken J Good has informed me that Polarion are intending to bring out a purpose-designed dive-light later this year, so maybe that will be the way to go.

Great pictures and info. I've never taken mine apart because I wasn't able too. I'll probably have to strap wrench it and I just haven't gotten around to it yet.

When you screwed the head back on did you install new PTFE tape after you cleaned and lubed everything?

I also noted your zip-tie sling attachment it looks like it would work pretty well.

Thanks for posting this :thumbsup:

It took 2 strong men to untwist it, one holding the head and the other the handle. The rear body is really just a tube for the battery.

I did not replace the tape. I don't know if it is put there as standard on all of them or what the purpose is - maybe it does help with the seal, but an extra O-ring would have been better IMO. I'm not sure exactly what tape it was - white, very thin and slippery. Unscrewing the head tore the tape up into stringy pieces, so I had to take it all off. People will be shaking their heads at this, but wtf, this is CPF, and we can't leave our stuff alone, can we, lol!

The trigger snap is for hanging the light from a diving harness. I attach a second one to the eye on the handle, and the light can then then hang horizontally until needed. I also use a safety tether to prevent loss.

DM51 said:

It took 2 strong men to untwist it...

Click to expand...

Good to know. I was feeling a bit inadequate being unable to twist the head off the bezel with my bare hands. And I can close a Captains of Crush No. 2 .

I'm sorry for bumping up a two year old thread but it's better this way than to start my own. It's not like the PH40 has changed a bit or been dethroned anyway.:devil:

I am very wary of opening up such an expensive light. Since I bought mine used, and the battery pack has been modified, there is no kind of warranty or anything. That's not the issue.. I'm just afraid of breaking stuff.

I'm not a diver but I do want to weatherproof to the max. I like to take my lights and regrease the threads and O-rings with high viscosity Nyogel 779ZC. As opposed to the lower viscosity 760G that people use to make the tailcaps and bezels twist with less force. I lose practicality but gain in water resistance.

But back on track. Basically, since it took that much effort to open it up.. Would you caution the queasy and nervous against it?

Have you been diving the PH40 in the two years since this thread? How is it holding up?

Let me add that I have opened mine and it is very near impossible without a proper made jig of some sort. Do NOT try this yourself.

I love the PH40 but I use the AELight 35/50 as it is rated for diving and in air. Some dive lights do not have proper cooling out of the water so be careful when looking for a single light providing land and water use.

aehaas

Perfectly OK to bump this thread, as your question is on the same topic.

I would just reiterate the cautions I expressed in post #1. I have in fact been too nervous to dive with my PH40 again, as I would hate to have it flood and be ruined.

Polarion now make a specialised dive light anyway (the Abyss U2) so for those who want to use one for diving, that would be the one to go for, rather than the PH40. Or, as AEHaas says, the AELight 35/50 sounds extremely good and is dive rated.

However, you say you won't be diving with yours, so the PH40 will stand up to all weather conditions. If it's too stiff to open, that probably means it is sealed extremely well, and I would leave it that way.

Okay, I think I'll just leave it well alone.

I'd still love to own a dive rated, high end HID but the AE seems a bit expensive considering the price of Abyss. I suppose the main advantage of the AE is that it's a two-stage.

I should probably consider selling my Night Reaper since it doesn't get used nearly as much as my PH50, then put the money toward an X1 or the Abyss.