SSC P7 Buck Converter

[rizky_p]

On the contrary the light holder looks sturdy. Nice to know it is strong enough to be in the Race, still that must be the brightest light in the race.

Agreed i hopes DW would build a cheap driver board to upgrade current driver. Come on DW built one...

The light holder is indeed bit terrible . It was made in a pressure because the owner of the bike was in hurry to a bike race. The parts are collected out of water pipe parts which are used when building pipelines into houses.

The runtime with 4x18650 (4x2500mAh) was with full power 65 mins. And my friend did some measurements with the temperature - with plain Maglite D (not finned) The temperature was bit over 50C (if I remember it right) on the surface of the Mag head. And I belive the was not thermal paste around the heatsink at that time.

Hopefully DW will come in a prima conclusion with the dimmer project so that we could update the driver and play a bit with different modes (MAY THE FORCE BE WITH DW ! ).

[Der Wichtel]

Had a free day of learning yesterday. I used it to programm some part of the code.
here is a short example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLGZKlqYEpA

This is my first time programming with C and AVR Studio on a microcontroller. I'm usually using Bascom which is a little bit easier but Bascom had so some problems with my microcontroller...

If you have any suggestions, please post.

[olav]

Damn... if the led was just a bit brighter - just joking

With my poor poor expertice I would say that it seems just !

Maybe the blinking interval could be bit more intense - without knowing if it is even possible. Would it be too complicated if there would be 50% dimm insted of 2%. Or what for kind of purpose did you think this 2%?

I hope other members of CPF will give you better opinions !

[Der Wichtel]

I thought that 2% is good for reading or other different situations were you don't want to blind yourself or someone else.
2% are still 48 to 54 Lumens with the Triple P7. 3% would be 72 to 81 Lumens. Will have to see which one is better.

The difference between the 75% and 50% was very small so I chose 25% as the next darker step. I think I will change that to 33% or 40%.

75% is good if you still want high brightness but want to drive the triple P7 permanently without heat issues.

This is what I thought. However I haven't tested the modes with a triple P7 setup yet. Still waiting for the LEDs from Litemania.

[olav]

Good points, must say!

I just tested my 1 x P7 with this kaidomains driver

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDeta...ProductId=1866

with 100%, 35% and 5%. With 5% the light seems to be quite bright in dark room, so I could imagine what would 5% be with triple.
2% or 3% could be quite suitable. But maybe we will read about it after you have tested ?

[rizky_p]

SUPERB i'll be waiting for this driver...

Some question, is this going to be a whole new driver which will replaced current driver or an add-on board that will work together with you current driver?

Is it possible to build a programmable 3 mode with variable 1%-100% brightness?

thanks.

I thought that 2% is good for reading or other different situations were you don't want to blind yourself or someone else.
2% are still 48 to 54 Lumens with the Triple P7. 3% would be 72 to 81 Lumens. Will have to see which one is better.

The difference between the 75% and 50% was very small so I chose 25% as the next darker step. I think I will change that to 33% or 40%.

75% is good if you still want high brightness but want to drive the triple P7 permanently without heat issues.

This is what I thought. However I haven't tested the modes with a triple P7 setup yet. Still waiting for the LEDs from Litemania.

[Der Wichtel]

SUPERB i'll be waiting for this driver...

Some question, is this going to be a whole new driver which will replaced current driver or an add-on board that will work together with you current driver?

Is it possible to build a programmable 3 mode with variable 1%-100% brightness?

thanks.

Sure, if you tell me how to change modes, program these modes and turn the light on and off with one button easily . I hate using button press combos. It's as if I'm playing those fighting games like "tekken" on the playstation.

I experienced that 3 light levels and one blink mode is "enough". Maybe I should offer two firmwares or even a programming adapter which can be plugged into the computer???

One like above described and another one with every mode you can think of

The current board already has the circuit for dimming, I just need to solder the components for dimming onto the board.

[barnefko]

Hi
I'm about buying a driver from you.
three questions though:
1: do they come prewired? (got baaad soldering skills, would just like to solder it to the p7)
2: When will you offer the 3-mode driver? I would be glad to wait for this one som weeks more.
3: is heatsinking sufficient if i use DX's thermal glue and stick it to the bottom of litemanias M@g-D heatsink?

Thx in advance

[Der Wichtel]

1.yes they are prewired.

2. Guess what? The code had one litte bug which I wanted to solve after the exam on 13.10.09.
While studying for that exam this morning a simple solution came up to my mind. Couldn't resist to test that idea and it works!

I need to test that thing and have to order some components. I can do the testing after the exam. Could take one week, unless I can find an experienced member here to for testing.

3. The driver does't need to be heatsinked. However efficiency will be better when it's done. So if you can glue it, then you should to that

[rizky_p]

An upgradeable driver would be unique but i am sure that will increase cost. It probably best if you could provide several types of firmware and flash them per user request before shipping.

i would probably ask something like this 100%, 75%, 30%, 1%.

Thanks.

I experienced that 3 light levels and one blink mode is "enough". Maybe I should offer two firmwares or even a programming adapter which can be plugged into the computer???

One like above described and another one with every mode you can think of

The current board already has the circuit for dimming, I just need to solder the components for dimming onto the board.

[Nos]

omg just fried a MC-E .......* i tought the 2nd version has the same output voltage no matter the input voltage

a new P7 is on the way, but how do i adjust the voltage now? i allready blasted 1 Wichtel buck, and a MC-E so far

i dont want to get the new version....but blasting another P7 isnt any cheaper

[Der Wichtel]

Which version do you mean with 2nd version? The one with the pot for single p7 or the current version?

did you change your input voltage? From which voltage to which voltage?

Did you drive your MCE in parallel or in series?

[Nos]

Yes, i used the 2nd version with the pot. I changend the input voltage from 2 to 3 li-ion and wired the MC-E parallel.

[Der Wichtel]

can you measure the output voltage before and after?

[Nos]

yeah later at the weekend... no time atm

[Der Wichtel]

The modes are available now. I'll try to make a video tonight

[rizky_p]

I wasn't expecting it so soon. cool

The modes are available now. I'll try to make a video tonight

[Nos]

so 2 Liion Zellen legen 3,2V and die MC-E
3 Zellen kommen 3,9V .... wo mit die MC-E dann endgültig gegrillt war .....

[Der Wichtel]

I wasn't expecting it so soon. cool

the first page has been updated for the new driver
here is the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOuQortrgUY

so 2 Liion Zellen legen 3,2V and die MC-E
3 Zellen kommen 3,9V .... wo mit die MC-E dann endgültig gegrillt war .....

Sieht wohl so aus, als wäre der Treiber irgendwie kaputt gegangen. Keine Ahnung woran das liegen könnte.
Alles was ich Dir anbieten kann wäre wieder ein neuer Treiber. Ich bräuchte allerdings dann den kaputten Treiber um ihn näher zu untersuchen.

[rizky_p]

Just saw the video, cant imagine strobe with that amount of lumens indoor...

Can i use mag original switch modified to momentary?
I wish you made an add on board reduce cost for us who bought the single mode instead of buying a whole new driver.

[Ottorino]

Hi Der WicHtel,
I have seen your driver for Seoul P7 and i am interested for buying a driver from you in version A (4-mode).
four questions though:
1: Can you explain me how you switch the single modes (a draw will be appreciated) becouse i don't understand what does it mean "... needs a momentary switch".
2: Could you explain me what is the fourth mode "3"; I understand 100%, 70%, and 25%, but "3" no;
3: It is possible to change the modes, i.e. 100%, 50%, strobe, "3" or as i prefer 100%, 75%, 50% e Strobe
4: I send you a mail few days ago without replay from you could you confirm your e-mail?
Thx in advance

[Der Wichtel]

Yes, you can use the original switch and modify it. That's what I did as well.

[spankone]

[Der Wichtel]

1. The switch needs to be modded to momentary:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=189336
Modes are changed by push&hold the button for 1s.
2: the "3" is a typo. It should mean 3%.
3: sorry but no it's not possible. I want to keep it as simple as possible.
4: the mail is correct but it's possible that your mail has been filtered out by the spam filter. Unfortunately I can't turn it off otherwise I'll get a lot of spam.

[mrevolution]

will i be able to to use this driver in a car? i want to use two ssc p7 for my backup light.

[javiole]

Hi Der,

Are you thinking about proramming a version for road cycling? in the same way as the duomode of the hipflex.

from off, one push -> low (20%-25%)
from low, one push -> high (100%)
from high, one push -> low (20%-25%)
from low, one push -> high (100%)
and so on. Then, from low or high, a long push or a fast double push -> off.

No 50% level and not strobes.

That is all you need to make happy all the cpf cyclist members. Specially for road riding we need something fast switchable from low to high and from high to low similar as when driving a car. A momentary switch is interesting since you can locate one on the light case and another one in the bicycle drops, so you can keep your riding position at the same time as you switch the level output. hipflex is much bigger than your driver and more difficult to fit in small lights.

cheers

Javi

[olav]

Thank You very very much DW !

Received your parcel today safe & sound

[spankone]

it arrived this morning thank you

I know its been asked before but can I have a wiring diagram.

[spankone]

Vin: positive Input
GND: negative Input
L+: positive Output ( anode of the LED)
L-: negative Output ( kathode of the LED)


found what i need to know

[Der Wichtel]

will i be able to to use this driver in a car? i want to use two ssc p7 for my backup light.

Yes that should work. But I'm not sure how high the voltage spikes are in a car. Maybe you'll need a schottky diode and capacitor to reduce input ripple.

Hi Der,

Are you thinking about proramming a version for road cycling? in the same way as the duomode of the hipflex.

from off, one push -> low (20%-25%)
from low, one push -> high (100%)
from high, one push -> low (20%-25%)
from low, one push -> high (100%)
and so on. Then, from low or high, a long push or a fast double push -> off.

No 50% level and not strobes.

That is all you need to make happy all the cpf cyclist members. Specially for road riding we need something fast switchable from low to high and from high to low similar as when driving a car. A momentary switch is interesting since you can locate one on the light case and another one in the bicycle drops, so you can keep your riding position at the same time as you switch the level output. hipflex is much bigger than your driver and more difficult to fit in small lights.

cheers

Javi

Looks good. I think that can be done.

Thank You very very much DW !

Received your parcel today safe & sound

Hope to see some outstanding builds again

Vin: positive Input
GND: negative Input
L+: positive Output ( anode of the LED)
L-: negative Output ( kathode of the LED)


found what i need to know