Hi, I am interested too in the driver and dimmer...
Hi, I am interested too in the driver and dimmer...
Zebralight Spark Princeton Inova Petzl Maglite Bushnell 4 XM-L MagMod and a lot of Cree XM-L Lights Nitecore i4 Intellicharger Intl-outdoor 3400 Panasonic 3100 Bare and protected Samsung 3000 Sanyo 2600
Please, respect the planet, dont kill animals...
HI, i m a newbie, and i would llike to contact u , ,but i dont know how to, i cant see how to pm u anywhere as u asked ,, can u email me redbigjoe69@hotmail.com please
thanks alot,
joe
sorry, but the last drivers were sold...
I will have the next batch in 2 weeks.
Hi Der,
could I replace the pot in the driver for one that provides: minimum around 3volts and maximum the vf voltage of my P7 (i.e. when 2.8amps are reached) and use it like a dimmer?
cheers,
javie
Yes you can.
you need to change one resistor and the pot.
there is a 10k resistor near the pot. replace it with something about 37k then you will get min voltage of 3V
replace the pot with a 10k and you will have max output of about 3.5V.
so your voltage range is 3-3.5V which should be good for the I Bin P7.
Use a 40k resistor instead of the 37k if you have J Bin P7
Thanks for the info Der.
I just want to have a lower mode to safe battery having still some decent light. What do you think about this one? current regulated 1.4Amps in on1 and 2.8Amps in on2 at a regulated vf voltage provide by your driver. Or even use a single 4 amc7135 at on1 and DD from your driver at on2 (then the current will be limited by the vf set in your driver.
For a tri-P7, same could apply but using Dowload design and adding 2 slave P7.
what do you think?
cheers,
Javie
Last edited by javiole; 12-11-2008 at 05:48 AM. Reason: Try to upload a picture
Sorry, I don't know why I cannot upload my draw. I'm new in here an I cannot make it work!!!
I have put it as my avatar but it is too small to be seen. Or you can try to see it here:
http://s479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/javiole/
can anybody explain why the image I uploaded can be seen just as an icon?
The idea is to regulate the vf voltage with your driver, using the (+), then using the (-) to regulate the current with some amc7135. The (-) that should go from the battery to the LED, would feed two 4*amc7135 boards to regulate the current. One of them is permanently on (then we get 1.4amps at the vf fixed from your driver) when the switch power is on, and the other one is controled by a second circuit in the power switch (an on-off-on switch with 2 circuits). In this last case we get current regulated of 2.8amps at a regulated vf from your driver. So we get two modes off----LOW 1.4amps(about 400lumes)-----HIGH 2.8amps(about 900lumens).
I wish I could post the image because I even don't understand my writting!! could I email (to your paypal email address) the image with the circuit for you to have a look? and let me know your opinion?
cheers,
javiole
Last edited by javiole; 12-11-2008 at 02:41 PM.
Der Witchel,
P7 driver received - thank you! Now waiting for more components...
Hill
Der Witchel,
Got mine today. Works nicelyThank-you
I´m currently working on a P7-Mag with a 6AA-2D fivemega holder. I want to adjust the driver, and now I am wondering. Should I start by adjusting it with the voltagemeter connected over the LED, measuring the Voltage across the lit LED?
And after that I connect an Ampmeter in series with the LED, before the positive input on the LED.
Did I get this right?
And wich way is the Poti set at minimum? wouldn´t want to start up with maximum value...
The urge for light is strong today....
Hi Der Wichtel,
I need 2 drivers for a single P7 c-bin. Because of the forum restrictions i still can't write PMs. Please email me the total and your paypal adress to Michael.Hilk(at)gmx.de
Thanks a lot
Michael
Anyone has experienced the buck converter with D2DIM driver?
I have semi-fried two D2DIM with the two wiring mode suggested in this thread
Seems that the D2DIM have lost the capacity to turn off, the led remain in a dim mode![]()
are you sure that you are not in programable mode for the D2dim, if when you power it up it flashes several times and then goes dim it is in programable mode.
If this might be it then you will be able to follow the instructions in the tech specs for D2dim.
As long as the polarity is right I doubt that the board is burned up. I have had good luck with this converter and the D2dim used together.
I'm 100% sure, not in programmable mode...for first i have tried with a new unused D2DIM...then with a tested and mounted in another flashlight D2DIM...same result.
Can you post a pic with your wiring, please?
Thanks.
I was out of town and had to get home to see how I had wired mine and then remembered that this is the diagram that I used and is how I did it.
http://daoriginal.da.funpic.de/data/...7buckd2dim.jpg
I have not had any trouble with mine.
I have some drivers in stock now![]()
Zebralight Spark Princeton Inova Petzl Maglite Bushnell 4 XM-L MagMod and a lot of Cree XM-L Lights Nitecore i4 Intellicharger Intl-outdoor 3400 Panasonic 3100 Bare and protected Samsung 3000 Sanyo 2600
Please, respect the planet, dont kill animals...
Hello,
I am interested in your work. Somehow i can not PM you. I am quite new here, but read a lot about p7 MOD's.
I would like to make a 2D p7 MOD with 6xAA cell's
Can you tell me if your driverboard wil be good for that?
thank you,
Ktafil
I think you need at least three posts to have your pm function enabled.
Ok...... Not very handy.... a new guy has to start somewhere.
I hope they give me the PM function soon, so that I dont have to post just to post something to get PM rights....
So a 6xAA will work fine with your driver?
How much amps will it suck out of the cells with 7.2V?
hope to PM you soon to order
Ktafil
@Ktafil
I´m building a light with that exact setup right now.... I use the board with a max output of 4V.
The urge for light is strong today....
hi Der,
a fast question:
I was so impatient to try your driver that i used the p7 from my mte flashlight (it is taking ages for the p7s to arrive). I used 7.2volts li-ions (2s3p). I connected the driver as you indicate and a tester to measure the amps in serial with the p7. Everything ok in the pot-minimum. As a turned the pot on, the p7 started to flash (I even like that for a bicycle set up). The maximum that the p7 would take was about 1.93Amps at the maximum pot-turn. At some point, the p7 stop woking. I'm afraid I have fried it!! I thought a p7 will always reach 2.8amps at its vf. that's why I never checked the voltage I was puting in the p7, I thought it was safe because not crossing 2.8amps means not crossing the vf. Anyway 4.2volts wouldn't fried a p7 I thought too. It is possible that this p7 could take less that 2.8amps at its right vf, being in this case maybe low? (DD from a li-ion it would only take 1.5amps). I am a bit confused.
cheers,
Javi
The driver was already preadjusted.
Did you remove your amperemeter from the series setup when running the LED?
If your amperemeter has too high resistance then you will get too much voltage drop. Thats why you can't go over 1.93A.
Hi
I would like to get three of your version 1 boards since I am using them in Tri P7 builds Probably using 4x 3.7 lions for power so I figured I needed the version one.
I have a version two left, can I use this in with a cree MEC and 12 volts?
Thanks
Dave (Nailbender)![]()
I have 2 of your dimmer boards.
Can you show me the pin out of the connector?
Thank you
here you are
"wrong pic"
Edit:
Sorry wrong pic. here is the correct diagram:
http://daoriginal.da.funpic.de/data/Dcon/wire.jpg
Last edited by Der Wichtel; 12-31-2009 at 09:22 AM.
Thank you for the diagram.
Do you have instructions for the user interface?
Various push sequences cause the LED to blink etc.
However the UI is not obvious (at least for me)
Thanks again