ROP Low, the forgotten bulb?

Chodes

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Considering options for useful reliable incan, I have not heard too many people say much about the ROP low. Looking at Lux's destructive incan bulb test,
looking at WA 1111,1160,1166, etc
I notice most common solutions have about 1 - 1.15v "headroom" before flashing. So it seems ROP-L at 8.4V would leave 1.3v headroom , and at 2A current / 942 Lumens seems like very good solution.
So does everybody already know this and just don't mention it much.Should keep quiet so I can buy everyone's unused ROP-L bulbs cheap ? :crackup:
 

Beer

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Considering options for useful reliable incan, I have not heard too many people say much about the ROP low. Looking at Lux's destructive incan bulb test,
looking at WA 1111,1160,1166, etc
I notice most common solutions have about 1 - 1.15v "headroom" before flashing. So it seems ROP-L at 8.4V would leave 1.3v headroom , and at 2A current / 942 Lumens seems like very good solution.
So does everybody already know this and just don't mention it much.Should keep quiet so I can buy everyone's unused ROP-L bulbs cheap ? :crackup:


My ROP LO is actually one of my favorite lights. Feed it 7 enloops and its very white and very bright. Match it with a SMO reflector and it throws like a SOB too.

:thumbsup:
 

Chodes

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Yep , 7 eneloops and some low resistance work was what I was thinking.
Here I am wondering what to do with my ROP Lows.
A 2 D LION pack would have very little sag at 2A too :sssh:
 

Anglepoise

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My limited experience with both low and high ROP potted bulbs has not been good.
I suspect a bad batch, but I got extreme gassing of the potting material that required constant cleaning of lens and reflector.
Not satisfactory at all.

Settled on WA1111, and 5761 bi pin and have been happy with this choice.
 

Chodes

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Ok, so 7 eneloops and no resistance mods? :grin2:
Eneloops can handle around 5-6A max. Elites can handle 25A or more.
I'm guessing with the low current of the ROP Low you get very little sag using elite cells, particularly with a fresh pack.
Lux pack with welded cells will be very low resistance too.
 

cernobila

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Yep , 7 eneloops and some low resistance work was what I was thinking.
Here I am wondering what to do with my ROP Lows.
A 2 D LION pack would have very little sag at 2A too :sssh:

The ROP L was the only bulb that worked in my standard 2x D Maglite (with alloy reflector and glass lens) using the Kai D Li-ion twinpacks, the 1111, 5761 and the ROP H all needed a soft start switch to get these to work. With the D's the ROP L will give you very good run times.

Now I use this bulb in my WE Eagle and M100 lights.
 
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Chodes

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My limited experience with both low and high ROP potted bulbs has not been good.
I suspect a bad batch, but I got extreme gassing of the potting material that required constant cleaning of lens and reflector.
Not satisfactory at all.

Settled on WA1111, and 5761 bi pin and have been happy with this choice.

I hope I have better luck with my ROP-Ls.
 

Chodes

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The ROP L was the only bulb that worked in my standard 2x D Maglite (with alloy reflector and glass lens) using the Kai D Li-ion twinpacks, the 1111, 5761 and the ROP H all needed a soft start switch to get these to work. With the D's the ROP L will give you very good run times.

Now I use this bulb in my WE Eagle and M100 lights.

That's what I was thinking , 2 hours would be a conservative estimate with the D pack and ROP-L. Well that's another light on the list to build but I won't have to buy anything this time :)
 

Raoul_Duke

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I was pretty unimpressed with the rop low bulb..It didnt realy seem bright at all, hardly any difference between that and my 6D mag lamp run on two RCR123's to me in an old everready host, and that was running the rop low a 2D mag with two Emoli 26700 cells, and resistance mods.


in saying that the Rop high didnt realy float my boat either.

I guess I jumped in at the deep end straight away with 100W+ builds, and cant go back now

Prehaps I should go back, and check. if I had the set up right.
 

cernobila

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In a 2x cell Li-ion Maglite format its not bad for normal use with about 500+ bulb lumens, a good practical light with good run time.

With short bursts, you may even get away with the original plastic reflector and lens.
 

M.S

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I have one AW C-cell with bad protection circuit, even 1111 won't light with one click. I started using rop low in my 2C-ROP because of that... It really is good combination of size, brightness and runtime. The beam is smooth and wide, but does not throw well with KD mop reflector
 

lctorana

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In the Roar of the Dolphin, you stuff 8 4/3A or 8 SubC cells plus a 2.2ohm NTC into a dead 4F lantern battery shell, and hit the RoP-low with 9.6-10V, albeit with a very gentle rise.

With the Dolphin's massive reflector, this is the ultimate RoP-low configuration.
 

Beer

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I put a LuxLuthor 7 cell Elite 2/3A pack behind my ROP low and :poof: Why are the Eneloops working?

My guess would be 1. More resistance in the cells, 2. More resistance in the Batt holder, 3. I have done no resistance mods to this light - No tailcap, no switch, nothin.


Sooooooooooooooooooo....

I guess with 7 cells and a ROP LO you need some resistance. Or else :poof:
 

Fulgeo

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I had the same problem and followed the same path to the WA1111 and 5761. Since then there are two solutions to this problem. I believe Northern Lights had very good luck "baking" his pelicans to remove the gassing. He would bake them in the oven at 250 degrees F for 30 minutes then let them cool. You could also run them for 1-2 hours without the bezel on the flash light but hey this is a waste of good lamp runtime. I have had good luck taking two needle nose pliers and removing the low and high ROP from their potted sockets. You sort of peel them like an orange. Then I remount them in a bin-pin socket. Works great.


My limited experience with both low and high ROP potted bulbs has not been good.
I suspect a bad batch, but I got extreme gassing of the potting material that required constant cleaning of lens and reflector.
Not satisfactory at all.

Settled on WA1111, and 5761 bi pin and have been happy with this choice.
 

BSBG

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In a 2x cell Li-ion Maglite format its not bad for normal use with about 500+ bulb lumens, a good practical light with good run time.

I concur. I keep a 2C mag w/ 2x18650s and an ROP Low in the car. I took it out the other day to check the batteries and was once again impressed with
the output in such a nice package. Even 18650s will give close to an hour of run time.
 

Beer

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I had the same problem and followed the same path to the WA1111 and 5761. Since then there are two solutions to this problem. I believe Northern Lights had very good luck "baking" his pelicans to remove the gassing. He would bake them in the oven at 250 degrees F for 30 minutes then let them cool. You could also run them for 1-2 hours without the bezel on the flash light but hey this is a waste of good lamp runtime. I have had good luck taking two needle nose pliers and removing the low and high ROP from their potted sockets. You sort of peel them like an orange. Then I remount them in a bin-pin socket. Works great.

Gassing? Is that what that is? I always thought it was condensation build up from the heat of the lamp on cool air inside the head. Goes away if I unscrew the bezel, but them comes back a few minutes later.
 

ejor

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As someone who is out working in the dark all night, rop low is a very usefull long running light. I've been using stock reflectors and lens with no problem in at least one of them. my mag 85 is too bright for general use, it kills my night vision. Great when you need a lot of light or through though.
 
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