Clicky vs Twisty

I tried the search tool but couldn't find a good argument between the two styles. I know much of it is personal preference but I would like to know are there any reliability factors between the two? While we are at it how about the reliability between forward and reverse clicky. Thanks for your input. P.S. I am a noob to this stuff so be gentle

Inconceivable said:

I tried the search tool but couldn't find a good argument between the two styles. I know much of it is personal preference but I would like to know are there any reliability factors between the two? While we are at it how about the reliability between forward and reverse clicky. Thanks for your input. P.S. I am a noob to this stuff so be gentle

Click to expand...

I think that generally the most reliable is twisty, second is forward clicky, and third is reverse clicky.

Generally you can't do tactical-style 'instant-on/off' momentary operation with a reverse clicky switch, as additional clicks cycle through modes immediately instead of turning the light on and off. While with forward clicky, you can do momentary.

Twisties that can be twisted on and off single-handed can be used similar to momentary, and some of them also incorporate a momentary-only tailcap button.

FWIW I don't like twisties as much, even though I had Maglites with twisties since long ago. It may be more reliable but I've not had a problem with any clicky failing yet. It's just not very convenient to twist a bezel to turn on a light or operate its modes. It's cumbersome with one hand while a clicky is so much easier to operate single handedly.

The best solution imho is the PD design by McGizmo. In the NiteCore Smart PD lights it can be used as a twisty, momentary, or regular clicky. Truly awesome design.

While I haven't done any independent tests to verify, I know the general (and logical) concensus is that twisty's provide better water resistance since clickies have the weak point of the switch to allow water penetration. Also a twisty just has less to go wrong, in line with the KISS principle.

clicky can be activated with just one hand,
twisties not
(maybe when everything is all right and perfect, but on the long run its two-hand operation)

Friends Don't Let Friends Buy Twisties.

Sorry. Couldn't resist. Just my opinion, of course.

LED-holic said:

The best solution imho is the PD design by McGizmo. In the NiteCore Smart PD lights it can be used as a twisty, momentary, or regular clicky. Truly awesome design.

Click to expand...

SureFire's design you mean?
SureFire invented the two-stage switching.
SureFire also invented moving the whole battery to actuate the switch contacts in the bezel rather than having the switch contacts at the rear of the flashlight.

The Classic 8X, 8AX, 8NX and L7, as well as the 10X all feature this.

SureFire incorporated two-stage switching into their 'piston' design in the 10X.

Using SureFire's concepts Don's contribution has been to give users the ability to use replaceable batteries in the 'piston' rather than have the piston be the battery 'stick'.
This does open the design up to a wider variety of battery types and options for those who like or need that sort of thing.

Al

yellow said:

clicky can be activated with just one hand,
twisties not
(maybe when everything is all right and perfect, but on the long run its two-hand operation)

Click to expand...

I can't recall the last time I needed (or used) two hands to activate a SureFire twisty TailCap. My EDC is an L1 and it's TailCap threads and o-ring are usually full of pocket lint and dust etc. I never need to use two hands to rotate the TailCAp for constant-on, or back it off to lock it out.

Really? Didn't know SureFires had those features, and were the original concept inventor. That's impressive.

FWIW the Streamlight Strion operated on the same piston principle as well, with the piston being the battery stick.

Anywho, I have them both and do have a slight preference for clickie lights - OK a decided preference but I do carry some twisties as well and they do have different pros and cons.

Twisty.
Reliability - I think that a Peak LED Solutions twisty light is about as foolproof a light as you can have - I've had an Arc AAA fail on me but never a Peak. I'd add the old CMG Infinity into that group as well. I do think the basic twisty design is the most solid and foolproof overall.

Size - for a keychain light or any light where size is a factor a twisty is the smallest and most compact option, although the PD design is getting there.

Clickie.
Utility. But for any multi level light a clickie quickly becomes a better solution for me - easier to activate and effectuate multi steps to access different states. The Novatac/HDS light is the top of the food chain in this regard for me - the effective and reliable clickie allows you to move directly to 4 different levels from any of the other levels, something you just can't do with a twisty (and I have a Liteflux LF5 and LF2 so I can testify that the twisty is not as easy a method for programming).

Easier operation. Gloves, one handed etc... it is easier to use a clickie to me.

The reliability of a clickie is highly based upon the maker - my HDS and Novatacs have been very reliable, my Dereelight CL1H can be a bit finicky at moments.

Size15's said:

I can't recall the last time I needed (or used) two hands to activate a SureFire twisty TailCap. My EDC is an L1 and it's TailCap threads and o-ring are usually full of pocket lint and dust etc. I never need to use two hands to rotate the TailCAp for constant-on, or back it off to lock it out.

Click to expand...

My surefire lights, (L1 Cree and Luxeon, 6p led, 3p) are the smoothest operating twisty lights I have ever owned. All easily one-handable, even when not given the TLC they deserve on a regular basis. This is one reason I am such a fan of the lights- great design carried out with quality manufacturing.

Aluminous said:

I think that generally the most reliable is twisty, second is forward clicky, and third is reverse clicky.

Click to expand...

I was under the impression that reverse clickies are generally more resilient than forward clickies, but then how does one measure these things? :thinking:

Twisties are fine IMO if there's also a momentary on (call it the "Surefire method"). And I'd rather trust my survival to a twisty than a clicky.

yellow said:

clicky can be activated with just one hand,
twisties not
(maybe when everything is all right and perfect, but on the long run its two-hand operation)

Click to expand...

^ ?!?!?!! :thinking:

I operate one-handed all the time?!

Unless your hands are 3 inches long, I don't see how you can't operate with one hand? :shrug: Oh, maybe if you only have 2 fingers; otherwise, one-handed operation with twisting done with the index and thumb is the norm. In fact, only 3 fingers is necessary to operate one-handed. Try it! Middle finger hold the body and twist with index and thumb. 3 finger finger operation, baby!!

pipspeak said:

I was under the impression that reverse clickies are generally more resilient than forward clickies, but then how does one measure these things? :thinking:

Twisties are fine IMO if there's also a momentary on (call it the "Surefire method"). And I'd rather trust my survival to a twisty than a clicky.

Click to expand...

I don't have any definitive reference/explanation handy, sorry... it's just the impression I recalled from posts I've been reading here, seems like more complaints about malfunctions on reverse clickies. Could be wrong.

I like the momentary on. And I agree. my SF lights twistys are all easy to manipulate with one hand. Since the twisty is the tail cap and NOT the bezel. That is one issue I have with the new SF Optimus. I dont like the fact that the controls are in the bezel. whereas my Gladius is easy to operate with one hand. Just twist the tailcap to switch from constant on/adjustable brightness, strobe, then momentary full blast.

The only SF that I have, that is difficult to twist with one hand, is my M6 Guardian.

A lot of good feedback and comments here in this thread...
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/189948

Ergonomically I find a nice forward clicky the easiest to use. Reverse clickys are a little counter-intuitive to me, but not completely out there. Twist switches can be difficult to operate one-handed, although there are exceptions. You can do the same little trick with a Gerber infinity ultra as well as this RC-C3.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1dkgjkDqAc

Size15's said:

I can't recall the last time I needed (or used) two hands to activate a SureFire twisty TailCap. My EDC is an L1 and it's TailCap threads and o-ring are usually full of pocket lint and dust etc. I never need to use two hands to rotate the TailCAp for constant-on, or back it off to lock it out.

Click to expand...

+1. I have never needed two hands for any of my SF twisties.

I still think forward clickies are easier to use with one hand. But every once in a while I feel like a "retro grouch" and don't want anything clicking.

Since I beleive SF and some other manufactures are making more reliable clickies these days, I think the better switch is the one that meets your personal needs.

Solscud007 said:

I like the momentary on. And I agree. my SF lights twistys are all easy to manipulate with one hand. Since the twisty is the tail cap and NOT the bezel. That is one issue I have with the new SF Optimus. I dont like the fact that the controls are in the bezel. whereas my Gladius is easy to operate with one hand. Just twist the tailcap to switch from constant on/adjustable brightness, strobe, then momentary full blast.

The only SF that I have, that is difficult to twist with one hand, is my M6 Guardian.

Click to expand...

I actually have no problem with the M6 tailcap and one-handed operation. You might want to try leaving the tailcap a very slight distance to on, needing only a short twist. I'd say I leave mine at about 1/4" from on and just a slight turn with the index/thumb lights her up.

I remember someone made a point twisties not being completely reliable because the constant twisting and pressure will eventually work the pill lose inside the head. I can't really say how feasible that is.

As for the Strion: Yes it was kind of a piston light, but not in the more revolutionary PD system sense. It was doing the same thing a few of other lights in the day (chinese "CSI" ebay lights) were doing: put pressure on the battery to complete one connection at the head. That pressure had to be maintained either by your thumb, or via tightening the tailcap (a really reliable twisty design! It doesn't twist the pill). Today's PDs make two connections at the head so most of its UI is reduced to slight taps instead of constant pressure or twisting.

RE: tailcap twisties... I find 6P one handed switch operation depends on how you lube the O-ring. Silicone grease seems very slippery and makes the switch much easier to operate. Lately I have been using plumbers O-ring grease because it makes the twist rotation much more resistant to accidental activation. So, yes I need two hands to turn it on... but its added security when its in my pack. If I need one handed light in a hurry, there's the tactical button.