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Sold/Expired <FEELER> Ice Cold P7

fivemega

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 28, 2003
Messages
5,522
Location
California
P1010338.jpg


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Excessive heat is a big issue for high power flashlights specially for LEDs.

I was allways thinking about better and more efficient way to cool down high power LED such as P7

I have made this prototype of M*g look host with oversized heat sink integrated with finned body and a seperate finned head.

Heat sink area has massive amount of material which is one piece with battery barrel.

Entire length of battery barrel, switch area up to neck is fine finned and barrel has slightly larger diameter than "D size M*g.

This is a host only and not a complete flashlight. You will get body/heat sink plus O'ring and head plus O'ring.

Body takes a towerless M*g "C" switch, "C" size protected cell and M*g "C" tail cap.

Note: front of switch compartment has 21mm diameter and 10mm deep space if you decided to use any regulator/controller.

Head takes "C" or "D" or Crown bezel with camless original or aluminum reflector and UCL.

Picture shows heat sink size comparison of M*g "C", M*g "D" and Ice Cold P7
Red one at left is M*g "D", black one is Ice Cold P7 and right one is a M*g "C"

Why spend a lot of $$$ for cut down+back and forth shipping your M*g body and then heat sink from elsewhere while you can have high efficieny finned short body and heat sink machined from one piece aluminum bar in HA black.

Price will be maximum $50 or less depends on quantity.

Please do not pay at this time.

Any SERIOUS interest?
 
Last edited:

Changchung

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Oct 2, 2005
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Where the night is too short...
Hi, I could be interested in a piece, but I also need the body/heat sink and the head, were can I find this? what kind of lens can I use? I know one from DX, can this work? Thanks
 

Sgt. LED

Flashaholic
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Sep 4, 2007
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7,486
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Chesapeake, Ohio
I am more interested in buying lights that are whole at this time.

I really hate hunting down compatible parts, most of the time 1 or 2 of the needed items end up being sold out.

If you sell this as a complete light I would be interested.
 

Chodes

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Joined
Jun 5, 2008
Messages
1,092
Location
Australia
I'm seriously interested.

Some thoughts and questions:

I have found the Mag D switch to be a better switch. More solid feel and sound and recently I have found C switch can have problems with "switch bounce" - switch making multiple contacts. Any reason for going with the C switch?

Also , thinking about changing LEDs. I have not tried removing an epoxied P7 yet. Normally I'll be risking damaging a $15 heatsink. Any suggestions for managing this?

What will the head look like?

I like the fact Black will be available if you make them.
 

Edwood

Enlightened
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Aug 27, 2006
Messages
994
Location
SoCal
Since it's a custom head and body, I'd much rather prefer a tail cap clicky rather than having to spend the time to mod a Mag switch. Would really make a nicer drop in solution.

Not to mention much shorter body length.
 

LED Zeppelin

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Joined
Sep 14, 2005
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1,876
Location
Great Lakes
FM, neat concept.

Could you provide a picture of an assembled light with head and tailcap? The body appears larger than a Mag C, so with a C tailcap is there a step down?

Also, I'm trying to envision assembly. I'm assuming the easiest way is to make the leads super long, fish them through the passages in the sink, then draw the switch through the tube into place. Then trim and solder the leads to the LED. And if a converter is used, the same process but with the board stuck to the front of the switch.
 

Chodes

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Jun 5, 2008
Messages
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Australia
Looks good.
Basically a heatsink with a pedestal for the LED :)

I'll order one if you make them.
 

shakeylegs

Enlightened
Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
725
Location
napa valley
I'm interested.
Fivemega, what about the battery compartment? It will hold one D liIon, yes? How about multiple 18650's in parallel or serial? Love to see 3 or 4 18650's with parallel and serial capability.
 

AlexGT

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Joined
Jan 15, 2001
Messages
3,651
Location
Houston, Texas
I agree, the tailcap looks like it doesn't belong there. a D size cap would look better. And a tail cap clicky would be awesome!

AlexGT

Since it's a custom head and body, I'd much rather prefer a tail cap clicky rather than having to spend the time to mod a Mag switch. Would really make a nicer drop in solution.

Not to mention much shorter body length.
 

fivemega

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 28, 2003
Messages
5,522
Location
California
I also need the body/heat sink and the head, were can I find this?
As far as I know, nobody else make these.
what kind of lens can I use?
52mm UCL from flashlightlens
I know one from DX, can this work? Thanks
Any lens to fit in C size and D size M*g will work.
---
I am more interested in buying lights that are whole at this time.

I really hate hunting down compatible parts, most of the time 1 or 2 of the needed items end up being sold out.

If you sell this as a complete light I would be interested.
Making complete flashlight will increase total price while some people may like to get different bezel or different bin LED or prefer stock reflector. Why they should pay extra for unwanted items?
---
I have found the Mag D switch to be a better switch. More solid feel and sound and recently I have found C switch can have problems with "switch bounce" - switch making multiple contacts. Any reason for going with the C switch?
"D" switch won't go through C size barrel and if barrel is D size, then it's wasting space to use PCV tube and the whole idea is having more fins. Also tower of M*g "C" is easily removable while tower of M*g "D" is one piece with switch.

Also , thinking about changing LEDs. I have not tried removing an epoxied P7 yet. Normally I'll be risking damaging a $15 heatsink. Any suggestions for managing this?
How often do you change LED?

What will the head look like?
More like extension tube with some fins.
---
Since it's a custom head and body, I'd much rather prefer a tail cap clicky rather than having to spend the time to mod a Mag switch. Would really make a nicer drop in solution.

Not to mention much shorter body length.
That's right but then I will have to make such a tail cap which will increase total cost and you will ask where is the bezel?
---
The body appears larger than a Mag C, so with a C tailcap is there a step down?
Body is infact fatter than D size and yes, there is a step down.

Also, I'm trying to envision assembly. I'm assuming the easiest way is to make the leads super long, fish them through the passages in the sink, then draw the switch through the tube into place. Then trim and solder the leads to the LED. And if a converter is used, the same process but with the board stuck to the front of the switch.
Excellent description. Thank you.
---
Can you post a picture of the host without the caliper?

AlexGT
More pictures added.
---
Looks good.
Basically a heatsink with a pedestal for the LED :)

I'll order one if you make them.
You will order two. :D:
---
Fivemega, what about the battery compartment? It will hold one D liIon, yes?
It takes protected "C" size lithium ion which is easily capable of 3 amps for over an hour.
How about multiple 18650's in parallel or serial? Love to see 3 or 4 18650's with parallel and serial capability.
Like this?
---
Why no bezel and no tail cap?
Many of you already have some extra bezel because you got Crown for your hot wire and you have extra tail cap because you replaced it with wide tail cap.
 

wanted

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Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Messages
25
Hi FM, I hope this isn't a stupid ? but how do you turn on the light , I don't see a hole for the push button Mag switch?

Also I had a suggestion, how about a slip on matching piece that would go over the Mag tailcap so the tailcap would be more uniform. Maybe have it lock down to the Mag C tailcap with 3 set screws. Or maybe a Mag D tailcap. :thumbsup:
 

d1dd1

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 1, 2007
Messages
201
Location
Germany
great idea to a great price!

But I also think te tailcap should hae the same size as the body even tif this results in a higher price.

Or maybe just fin the front part of the body where the heatsink and switch is and make the rest of battery tube with a higher inner diameter to fit 3x18650 ??
 

NextLight

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Sep 27, 2005
Messages
292
Location
SE Wyoming
great idea to a great price!

But I also think the tailcap should have the same size as the body even if this results in a higher price. {typos corrected}

...

Second this. Tiny tailcap looks g00fy.

I don't own a P7 sized light but am seriously looking for one solid product, and as LED power goes up, cooling becomes much more important.


The forward 1/3 of the light seems perfect. I am unconvinced about the rest.
 

uluapoundr

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Apr 7, 2008
Messages
153
Location
Hilo, Hawaii
I agree that the tailcap appears out of place. A custom tailcap that mates up with the body would complete the host.

The finning is nice, but I'm wondering if it's a bit too much. How bout finning depth gradually decreasing as it gets towards the tail, that way there is still heatsinking and a smooth finish at the tail to match the custom tailcap.

At $50 the way it is, I'd still buy one...or two.
 

LiteFan

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 2, 2006
Messages
232
I buy one for $50. Would also like to see a different tail option. Hope you do another run of crown bezels if this works out.
 
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