Aleph III LE Upgrade?

I have an Aleph III and I don't use it much anymore because of the output is so low by today's standard. I like my lights bright. I really like the two stage switch.

Are there any LE's that I can drop-in? I can't mod so I need the complete unit. I have a 1xcr123a battery tube.

What is available on the market so I don't wind up selling my Aleph?

TIA

Since it's an Aleph, wouldn't a GDuP Seoul screw right in? Its a three speed LE that the shoppe currently sells for around $160. I hear they even have a new natural white tint.

Mayo

What kind of switch does it have? If it's a clicky, then the GDuP is a good choice. If you have a two-stage switch, then you probably want something more basic (and also cheaper) than the GDuP.

I have the two stage. I have no use for a multi level at this time.

Not sure if this is a simple drop in for changing an older Luxeon for the Seoul. The reflector might need to be opened up a bit and a LE with the Seoul P4 raised up a bit (.030").

Just get a GDuP Seoul LE from the Shoppe, and put in a normal McClickie switch. Done. :thumbsup: It is, however, multi-level. The Shoppe doesn't have a pre-built Seoul LE besides these.

You could build your own too - easy to do!

john

Well, if you don't want to buy a new tailcap as well, I would recommend this. Unfortunately, it shows as out of stock, but you might be able to get one built.

He has a perfectly good 2-stage tailcap.
Just get a regular light engine with a Seoul.
He doesn't want the GDuP's features anyway.

The McR38 has an opening that just clears the plastic surround of the SSC. To acheive the proper focus while maintaining the relative postitions of the LE, reflector, and head (for proper lens pressure on the reflector and tube ground connection), the SSC should be raised about 0.030". If it's a McR38 Joker, 0.027". But 0.030" works either way and I can't tell any difference.

Since the SSC sits higher in the reflector, the bottom of the reflector can and probably will contact the LED leads, and short out the LE. So when building the Seoul LE, utmost care must be taken to properly center the LED, as well as bend the leads flat against the surround. I also coat the leads with a skim of epoxy as insulation just in case.

I haven't bought a complete SSC LE from the Shoppe, but I'm guessing these issues have been addressed and it will screw right in.

Although not always recommended, I've run an NG750 and NG1000 SSC LE off an RCR123. The LED is overdriven in direct drive until the cell voltage drops below the Vf, but I carried one for a year and had no problems. You could also run a GD board for flatter regulation. For extended useage, I'd go with a 750. Heatsinking is decent but not excellent in an Aleph head, and 1000 mA is pushing it for long runs, but fine for intermittent use.

The GD does not particularly like a 2-stage switch though. You need to keep the resistance at 10 ohms or less, 5 is good. Otherwise it tries too hard to boost the reduced voltage and will flicker. The NG behaves "normally", so if your tail is the standard 15 ohm or greater, the NG is the way to go.

I have a few NG 750's sporting Lux III's, I might get a few SSC for them, what do you use as the spacer?

Beamhead said:

I have a few NG 750's sporting Lux III's, I might get a few SSC for them, what do you use as the spacer?

Click to expand...

Beamhead, you can use these. Just desolder and pry off the old LED, clean up the E-screw, and epoxy the disc between the SSC and the E-screw. The discs are slightly cupped as received, so I usually take a mallet to them on an anvil, then file them flat.

If you maintain the integrity of the anodizing on the E-screw, you don't need to worry about slug isolation. Even if you scratch the E-screw removing the old LED, it's probaly safe since you have two layers of epoxy that will likely insulate the slug.

The McR27 and 38 have openings large enough to pass the entire LED including surround, but the McR20 does not. The McR20 only clears the dome, and the LED surround will butt against the bottom of the reflector. So if you're installing in an A2 head, you should either use an McR20S, or file the 0.030" off the back of the reflector. Otherwise the entire assembly will be longer not to mention the focus off. The light will probably still work, but the head may not cover the O-ring of the tube.

Hi All. I had trouble getting a good dial-up connection. It's been raining all day and that's bad for dial-up users.

LE marked 750 4.V Also marked TWOK.
So it's Lux III and a NG750. I have no idea what the 4.V means.



Could another emitter be swapped on my LE without buying a whole new LE? I would be looking for a modder to do this if it's possible.

LED Zeppelin said:

.......
The GD does not particularly like a 2-stage switch though. You need to keep the resistance at 10 ohms or less, 5 is good. Otherwise it tries too hard to boost the reduced voltage and will flicker. The NG behaves "normally", so if your tail is the standard 15 ohm or greater, the NG is the way to go.

Click to expand...

I have found 7.5 ohms to be the ideal resistance with my GD750 LEs
for my McE2S 2-stage tail-switch.

With a 5-ohm resistor board, I found that the tail-switch was heating up
a worrying amount. With a 10-ohm resistor board, the led hardly lit up at all.

Cindy and Wayne were very accommodating and made some 7.5 ohm
resistor boards for me when I explained this.

I think they may have left this as an option to select from the Sandwich
Shoppe.

sunspot said:

LE marked 750 4.V Also marked TWOK.
So it's Lux III and a NG750. I have no idea what the 4.V means.

Could another emitter be swapped on my LE without buying a whole new LE? I would be looking for a modder to do this if it's possible.

Click to expand...

According to Led Zep yes and I am going to order a few SSC's and try it. My experience with the NexGen is anything above 3 volts over time smokes the LE, even a J or higher binned lux III @ 750 mA. 2 went tango-uniform on me and at $95 a pop I will only run 3 V primaries from now on. (or 2 AA's)

sunspot said:

Could another emitter be swapped on my LE without buying a whole new LE? I would be looking for a modder to do this if it's possible.

Click to expand...

I have some experience in swapping LED and building LE. There are several kind of method to build LE. When I see your LE, you need following parts to replace the stock LED.
- SSC P4
- 0.030" Copper Spacer
- Emitter Board (?)
- AA Epoxy

I'll do following steps to swap LED.
1. Desolder 2 wires and remove the LED. If there is no epoxy between LED and E-screw this is very good and easy, otherwisw this is not easy and probably destroy the LED and emitter board.
2. Solder copper spacer on the slug of P4
3. Install the P4 with small AA Epoxy. (If emitter board stuck to E-screw you can also use thermal grease.)
* If you swap the emitter board, do not use epoxy for easy upgrade. Use AA epoxy for only LED.
* If you raise the P4 with copper spacer, I recommend, you should insulate the bottom of reflector from the LED leads.

Beamhead said:

My experience with the NexGen is anything above 3 volts over time smokes the LE, even a J or higher binned lux III @ 750 mA.

Click to expand...

You are right. I spoke to Don some time ago and he warned me never to use a 2 cell tube.


ROK, I'll order the parts from the shoppe this week.

I've been to the Shoppe. What emitter board am I looking for?

TIA

Sunspot, the the emitter board is the donut-shaped board surrounding your LED. Yours should be reusable, you can perform the swap without removing the board. Yours appears to be epoxied down, so it might be difficult to remove anyway.

I don't see it listed separately, it comes as part of the Aleph LE kit.

Actually you can build an LE without the board. It helps center the LED (though I wouldn't rely on it alone, placement in the reflector and head for alignment is best), and it provides a solder pad junction for the LED leads and wires.

sunspot said:

I've been to the Shoppe. What emitter board am I looking for?

TIA

Click to expand...

In the past, emitter board of Aleph LE Kit was available separately. IIRC it was $2.
You had better contact Shoppe.

Led Zep and ROK, thanks for the instructions.:thumbsup:
I just transplanted one on a NexGen 750, I made my own spacer and used "reinforcement labels" as a layer of isolation.:tinfoil:

It works best in either an A1 or A3, I may have shaved too much off of the McR-20.:duh2:

I am quite pleased with the outcome although to my eye they aren't all that much brighter than the U bin Lux 3's they replaced. They do however have much more spill. And these boogers run warm.
Thanks again gents.