Hey, that worked out really well for you then. At least it sounds to me like you made out. What an enormous training tool the powermeter is to!!!
There is just something about a high quality tensioned racing wheel that the full carbon wheels can't seem to match. Where I really notice the difference is at high speed and under load, like a swoopie mountain desent. The tensioned wheel talks back to you and tells you where the bikes needs to have your weight distributed while the full carbon designs I've ridden felt very dampened and didn't inspire confidence, from my perspective anyhow... Another thing that I like about the zipp is that they're pretty friendly in cross winds (for and aero wheel).
I really like the Fisher Mendota that you've got your eye on. I looks like a very versatile bike and I especially like the geometry. I was looking at the angles and top tube length and it's very "road bike" like but with just enough touch of plushness. It has a great color scheme too.
The geometry of your old Fisher reminds me of my green trek 7000 with the long top tube and stretched out design. I sure don't miss the handling characteristics of that concept.
Like you stated, I see that you have hubs without rotor mounting flanges, so you're kinda stuck rotorless without getting new wheels or at least hubs. And ya know, for general riding the disc really doesn't provide many noticable advantages. V-brakes are lighter, usually quieter and provide a suprising good feel when tuned properly. We just put a set of Avid Single Digit SL's on my brother's 2004 Fuel 98 and he is very pleased with them. We did a fairly serious ride this morning with a lot of climbing and decending among big grapefruit sized rocks and he was loving his new brakes.
With regards to your low seat and high bars, often...riders prefer having their seat and bars relatively close to the same height since it improves the weight distribution so much. Although it wouldn't be possible to get them at the same height on your bike, every little bit helps. It's very easy five minute task to lower your stem some if you're willing to try a more natural riding position. Simple take the spacers which are under your stem (between the bottom of the stem and the headset) and place them on top of the stem (between the top of the stem and the stem cap). It appears that you have several spacers there...at least three or four of them and they look like 10mm spacers, which afford you some good adjustment range. You can move as many or as few as you like. The other option is the flip the stem upside down so that it doesn't rise so much. That's usually done if the moving spacers doesn't give the desired effect. If you're interested and if you should need any help, just shoot me a PM and I'll walk you through it either by PM or phone.
.......... mmmmm Rocky Mountain RMX
.... Me havin some fun in Castleton, Derbyshire
this is the video I use to show people who've never seen anything like it before!
Looks like we've got a few real down hiller's hanging around CPF.
Hendo, I was thinking about all the wet weather that you have over there and was looking at that slippery, snotty, rock strewn trail leading out from that gate. I was wondering what kind of tires you use to deal with those extremes.
Great Bike, looks awesome.
I just got back from Moab for the 24 hours of moab bike race. It was pretty fun, I didn't race but my brother did as part of a 5 man team. I did do on lap around the course the day before on my dad's bike, a specialized stuntjumper expert. My other bike is too small, it was a 99 specialized S-Works stuntjumper hardtail. My brother used his gary fisher 29er hardtail.
There were a lot of really nice bikes there, it was very hard to not stare at every bike that came by us.
For those of you that like Gary Fisher bikes, have you ever cracked the frame? My brother did it to his after 6 months of using it. My dad's friend has gone through 3 or 4 of them by now. Luckly the warranty is great, they just send you a new one, but it seem to be a common trend.
JarlThat is a very nice trial bike you got there. Ride safe my friend
Hendo I envy those great looking trails! I could smell the mud already oh nice bike too!
Last edited by GhostReaction; 10-14-2008 at 07:26 PM.
Lights were once incandescent. And halogen bulb were great
Sounds like you had a wonderful time. It was probably a nice treat to ride the course on the S-works. Those are well engineered bikes. Cracked GF frames seem to be more and more common these days. I've wondered what's been going on and frankly I think they're just making them too thin. It seems that they really maxed out 7000 series aluminum years ago so they won't be getting any lighter. The Superfly was GF's first venture into Carbon which appears to be the only way they'll be able to shed any further weight in their frames. Some manufacturers like Salsa and Voodoo are using Scandium but I'm not sure we'll see GF go that way due to the cost. The weight seems to be about the same anyhow, it's just that the Scandium seems to be more resistant to cracking. No problems with the Superfly so far though. It's been great.
For those of you that like Gary Fisher bikes, have you ever cracked the frame? ...QUOTE]
Yup. Riding buddy has cracked 2 of them. Seat tune cracks where the rear pivot is welded in.
Makes me wonder about my fuel 90...... trek owns fisher you know.
This is your life, and it's ending one minute at a time.
Be prepared for the truth.
I took a Marin hard tail out for an afternoon test ride and it was a really rigid frame. Hill climbs were a blast though... total piece of cake IIRC. Compared to my Fisher, which feels like a huffy & puffy by comparison. But it was a pretty rough ride on the downhills.
My fave bike shop...
(yeah, it was a fun descent, ... if you're ever in Spokane, that's the Charles Road hill, about 18 miles south of Spokane itself)
Charles Road, which is southwest of the city quite a ways, and I haven't done it in the winter. But it sounds like a good challenge!
I have done our local White Road climb in the winter, and it's quite a "wall," with two sections that read 17% on my inclinometer (the rest is about 12%-14%). It's also twisty with no shoulder, so even on dry pavement, you don't want to get much over 40mph due to the possibility of oncoming traffic, plus the need to stop at the bottom (which is one of the 17% sections).
Our best climb/descent is Mount Spokane. Some bona fide professional road racers placed it between Cat 1 and HC for difficulty. If you're ever here in the summertime, park at the Mt. Spokane High School parking lot and head east to Mt. Spokane for an awesome climb to ~5900 feet. Be careful on the way down, especially when you hit the long straight stretch halfway down... it's got one nasty dip in it that can knock your hands right off your bars if you're not holding on tight. It's difficult to see, especially at warp speed.
Last edited by mechBgon; 10-15-2008 at 02:12 PM.
the rocky downhill section has running water fed by springs and is suprisingly grippy......
those tyres are IRC Missile, Downhill spec., kevlar reinforced and a chunky block tread, really great tyres, i love em, sadly they are no longer made since 2004 http://www.irctire.com/index.html
Maxxis brand are very popular here in the uk
If the missile's aren't available the maxxis wet scream is good, along with the medusa also.
This is your life, and it's ending one minute at a time.
Be prepared for the truth.
Intersting about the wet weather tires guys. Since we don't have much of that stuff out my way I was just curious how you water dogs dealt with it. Maybe Hendo can try out the Maxxis when his IRC tires wear out.
A wet weather tyre a few guys I know use+gets good reports is the panaracer trailraker. Also good is the bontrager mud-X (nearly went for one on the back, but needed more width)
I am buying a 2009 Norco Havoc for $1320 AU and I was just wondering if i could see what bike you have
I discovered these forums because of my need to mount lights on to my commuter bikes when I was working in San Francisco and the days kept getting shorter and shorter. Seems that I've been a closet flashaholic all these years and didn't realise it until I found this place.
Here are a few of my bikes:
My Cannondal Prophet 600. The only stock parts on it are the frame, Lefty, stem, and front hub. I've replaced/rebuilt the rest of the bike. Since this picture I have changed the pedals.
My Colnago International. It was purchased as a frame and fork and I built it up with almost period correct components. The wheels are modern, though. The brakes are terrible despite having Kool Stop salmon pads on it so it only comes out on nice days for easy rides. Since this picture I have replaced the buffalo leather one-piece handlebar wrap with Fizik synthetic tape. Much easier to keep clean and doesn't rip/scuff easily like the leather.
My Pedal Force RS. It was purchased through a group-buy as a frame and fork and I've built it up with '06 Campy Chorus components. The levers in the picture don't exactly look like typical Campy levers. This is because my buddy's bike fell off the rack after a long ride and, knowing him, the replacement levers that I directed him to buy were not perfect so I traded my 98% condition ones for the replacements. I decided that I could not do any more harm to these older, beat up levers so I stripped them down to bare carbon and refinished them.
I have two more bikes, both considered commuters. One is an old Guerciotti steel frame bike that has a mix of Campy Chorus and Centaur components that I ride all the way to the office and the other is a no-name eBay hard-tail frame I bought and cobbled together with parts I had laying around in the garage. It looks like crap, rides poorly, has cheap components on it, and doesn't rate a second look by would-be thieves when I lock it up at the subway or the local market.
Dang, some nice pics. It's awesome there are some bikers here who are also obsessed with lights
Here's my fun bike
and riding it
and my commuter
Some videos I made too:
Last edited by kuksul08; 01-19-2009 at 10:38 PM.
Now for something entirely different.
I'm past the stage of peddling to get places, but wanted to get around our small country town without using the car.
Runs on 4 X 12Volt 7Ah batteries and draws a maximum of 17Amps, top speed on the flat no peddling is 35KPH. From brushless hub motor.
Last edited by Trashman; 01-23-2009 at 08:57 PM.
Trek 6000 with studded snow tires and other necessary accessories for driving in city:
My beam is bigger than yours!
Kuk that looks a lot like the santiago hills area in socal.
Hobbyist LED information Website
U2 work light
Shaky Emergency Light
engineer in the making