Spy Questions

[easilyled]

I don't see this halo on either of my 2 SPY007s.

tpchan, are you sure you have tightened the bezel-ring as much as possible?

It can be tightened by placing the bezel-ring (while attached to the light) on the rubber sole of a shoe firmly
and then rotating the rest of the light clockwise.

If the halo is still there, then maybe the bezel-ring could be very slightly shortened by sanding the edge with the screw thread.

Obviously you should check with Data before doing this, I'm only trying to come up with helpful suggestions to eliminate the halo.

[tpchan]

tpchan, are you sure you have tightened the bezel-ring as much as possible?

It can be tightened by placing the bezel-ring (while attached to the light) on the rubber sole of a shoe firmly
and then rotating the rest of the light clockwise.

If the halo is still there, then maybe the bezel-ring could be very slightly shortened by sanding the edge with the screw thread.

Obviously you should check with Data before doing this, I'm only trying to come up with helpful suggestions to eliminate the halo.

Yes, my bezel is as tight as I can make it with the rubber sole shoe method. In fact, I too thought the bezel was loose and therefore "sticking out too far" but that was not the case. My bezel is definitely sticking farther out than other Spy007 owners, at least from what I can eyeball from viewing all the other nice pictures in the Spy007 pictures thread.

I've even thought about sanding the edge with the screw thread -- great minds think alike but I wanted to wait and see if Data had any comments first. That and if the bezel is also made of titanium, I don't think sand paper will do much to the screw thread ends....

I just used my metric calipers (accurate to 0.02mm) and when my bezel is fully tight it rises 1.3mm above the Spy007 body's edge. With the bezel removed, the calipers say the total height of the bezel is 4.18mm. Would someone else measure their bezel and see what numbers they find, especially someone with "no halo ring"? Thanks!

[Morelite]

I get 1.11mm from the head and 4.03mm OA.

[Data]

All the 005's and 007's have shiny bezels with a flat ID surface. Direct light from the emitter falls on it. They all create a halo. It is not about how long the bezel is because it is bathed in light on it's entire ID surface, not just the tip.

To get rid of the halo you could put a piece of masking tape around the ID or paint it with clear rubber cement or something to cut its reflectivity. Even clear scotch tape with a "flat" surface will make the surface non-reflective.

Cutting the bezel shorter will not help. All the bezel rings are made on my Mori Seiki CNC lathe. They are all the same dimensions. The back edge is uber flat, if you sand that you could end up creating a pressure point that would crack the lens.

Any variation on how far the bezel sticks out is due mostly to the varying thickness of the glass.


Cheers
Dave

[hamheart]

is there a difference between the first gen spy 007's and the second gen spy 007's?

[Hodsta]

is there a difference between the first gen spy 007's and the second gen spy 007's?

Others may want to chime in here but the key differences as far as I'm aware are as follows;

• U2SW0H emitter (first run USW0H) and is a nicer tint IMHO.
• Easiliy activated low power lock - so if the Spy is activated inadvertantly in your pocket it will do so at a much reduced output thus as to not waste batteries.
• Less travel in the switch when switching through levels.

[hamheart]

thanks

[Morelite]

Dave,
Would it be possible to buy a blank SSC heatsink for the 007? I recently bought a few of the SSC warm whites (3000k) and a few natural whites (4000K) and built them into Aleph light engines and really fell in love with the warm tints of these emitters and would like to put one in the SPY. I really should get a heatsink and converter that way the original can stay intact for future re-installment.

[hamheart]

what size are the o-rings on the knob of the spy's

[darmawaa]

I put a fully charged RCR123 3.7V on SPY, it doesn't work. I tested the batteries on my surefire, it runs OK.
Does SPY take Rechargeable?

[easilyled]

I put a fully charged RCR123 3.7V on SPY, it doesn't work. I tested the batteries on my surefire, it runs OK.
Does SPY take Rechargeable?

It takes 2 batteries.
It can take normal CR123 or rechargeables ie. RCR123s
You have to install the batteries the correct way.

Loading Batteries

When you are putting the batteries in the light please keep this in mind. On the battery that goes behind the LED, please put the "+" end in first. The other battery goes in with the "-" end in first.

The battery cap must be pushed straight on. If it gets crooked it will stick and you have to take it off and start again.

You can not hurt the light by putting the batteries in the wrong way.

When changing batteries use power-up-0 (keep the switch set to the off position). Power-up-0 will flash the LED one time, this is telling you that it has powered up the CPU, read the EEPROM, initialized the system and then gone to sleep. However, no matter what power-up mode you go into if you see the light is flashing more than one time, you can abort by simply turning the switch off.

[tpchan]

what size are the o-rings on the knob of the spy's

This has been answered many times but you should read this: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=210783

[tino_ale]

Dave,
Would it be possible to buy a blank SSC heatsink for the 007?

I would definetely be interrested as well. Swaping the emitter would only be a matter of 1/ uncrewing the head 2/ unsoldering the emitter 3/ swapping the heatsink with one with a new emitter and 4/ resolder with correct polarity and reassemble the head

Please correct me if I'm wrong

One last question : is the emitter potted to the heatsink?

[Data]

I would definetely be interrested as well. Swaping the emitter would only be a matter of 1/ uncrewing the head 2/ unsoldering the emitter 3/ swapping the heatsink with one with a new emitter and 4/ resolder with correct polarity and reassemble the head

Please correct me if I'm wrong

One last question : is the emitter potted to the heatsink?

I have a video in my youtube stuff that shows the assembly procedure. What you are proposing is close but not going to work. The lens ring must be taken off.

I do not have any extra heat sinks. Emitters change with the wind around here so it is not good to make many extra and Wayne has soaked them all up. I will make more early next year and make some extras. They are expensive.

Now if you are enterprising you can make them yourself with a lathe. Very straight forward actually if you got the time. Just take out yours and copy it.

Yes, the emitter is potted. What emitter are you thinking of switching to?

[tino_ale]

I absolutely love my SPY but I find the tint to be less than ideal (on my unit). Nothing dramatic but not close to being the nicest I've seen.

On a white wall it is quite white (yet a little on the cold side), but when aiming some colored objects I find it tend to show things sometimes on the purple or red side of the spectrum.

I think such a piece of art deserves the best tint available, basically the rest of the flashlight is so perfect that a "good" tint is not enought.

If the procedure is as simple as I described (or almost) I'd like to make that change. If it's risky or a little complicated, I would prefer to leave it as it is. I mention here that I can solder as long as the wires are reasonably long to be in a comfortable position when doing the job...

Thanks for any additionnal info you may have.

[Data]

I absolutely love my SPY but I find the tint to be less than ideal (on my unit). Nothing dramatic but not close to being the nicest I've seen.

On a white wall it is quite white (yet a little on the cold side), but when aiming some colored objects I find it tend to show things sometimes on the purple or red side of the spectrum.

I think such a piece of art deserves the best tint available, basically the rest of the flashlight is so perfect that a "good" tint is not enought.

If the procedure is as simple as I described (or almost) I'd like to make that change. If it's risky or a little complicated, I would prefer to leave it as it is. I mention here that I can solder as long as the wires are reasonably long to be in a comfortable position when doing the job...

Thanks for any additionnal info you may have.

I would never tell a fellow CPFer not to mod a light! Having said that, it will void your warranty.

IMO, the U2SW0H is the best color available. Some like the cooler X0 tint but I prefer the warmer W0. Unless you are into the CRI emitters, I do not think anybody has put one of those in a 007 yet.


Cheers
dave

[tino_ale]

The warranty thing makes me think. Maybe I'm not ready yet to make that step.

[Morelite]

IWhat emitter are you thinking of switching to?

I want to switch to a higher CRI emitter like the Seoul warm white like this one, they are also available in a 4000k natural white. These should be a direct swap for the P4's you used and require no other changes.

[Data]

I want to switch to a higher CRI emitter like the Seoul warm white like this one, they are also available in a 4000k natural white. These should be a direct swap for the P4's you used and require no other changes.

Do you have a light with this emitter in it?

[Morelite]

Do you have a light with this emitter in it?

I put one of each (warm white and natural white) in a couple Aleph LE's with Wiz2 converters at 650mA. I tried them in a A1, A2, and A3 and really loved the warm incan style tint. I know I lost a few lumens but that doesn't bother me. The warm white (3000K) at 650mA was very close to level 5 (500mA) of the SPY. To me thats fine.

[tpchan]

Not to beat a dead horse but this is a follow-up to my post #92 in this thread, regarding the "halo" effect. Data was kind enough to sell me a spare bezel and I received it yesterday. Unscrewed the original (and troublesome halo affected) bezel and replaced it with the new bezel. Shazam! No more halo effect at all. Now my Spy 007 finally looks the way I always thought it should/could. The beam is flawless now. Halo's are for angels again and no where to be found near my Spy 007. I'm so happy that I didn't even bother to caliper the new bezel vs the old one to try and figure out why its working now. It's still repeatable, i.e. I can swap to the old bezel and halo is back, new bezel == perfect beam. Just an FYI, in case I'm not the only one obsessed with getting rid of the "halo". YMMV.

[tino_ale]

Not to beat a dead horse but this is a follow-up to my post #92 in this thread, regarding the "halo" effect. Data was kind enough to sell me a spare bezel and I received it yesterday. Unscrewed the original (and troublesome halo affected) bezel and replaced it with the new bezel. Shazam! No more halo effect at all. Now my Spy 007 finally looks the way I always thought it should/could. The beam is flawless now. Halo's are for angels again and no where to be found near my Spy 007. I'm so happy that I didn't even bother to caliper the new bezel vs the old one to try and figure out why its working now. It's still repeatable, i.e. I can swap to the old bezel and halo is back, new bezel == perfect beam. Just an FYI, in case I'm not the only one obsessed with getting rid of the "halo". YMMV.

Good to know. Can you see with bare eyes a difference in the ID surface finish between the two bezels? Does one look more shiny than the other?

[tpchan]

Good to know. Can you see with bare eyes a difference in the ID surface finish between the two bezels? Does one look more shiny than the other?

Nope. I can not see a difference in the ID surface finish of the two bezels. I still say there is something different about the height of the two bezels (possibly the shape of the ID surface) but I've taken my Spy 007 bezels on and off too many times in the last few days and I don't want to measure it any more. I'm tired of it. It's halo-less now and I'm happy.

As I rub my finger along the ID surface it feels like there is very small lip near the top edge of the bezel, almost like there is a rough edge that needs to be chamfered some more. Perhaps that very small rough edge on the new bezel is preventing some of the reflections. The old halo bezel is very smooth and the tiny lip at the top of the bezel doesn't seem to be present. Just grasping at straws now....

[Morelite]

Dave,
Any news on the extra heatsinks for the 007?

[Data]

Talk to me about what you want to do. If it is a simple swap-out of one Seoul P4 for another then I can make some of those heat sinks up.

Generally, heat sinks are very easy to make if you have a lathe or mill or can talk somebody into making one for you.

On the other hand, you can take the emitter out of the heat sink you have and put another one in it. I have done that several times over the years.

Give me some idea of what you are planning to do. I do not have any heat sinks premade made because I never know what emitter will be coming along. And different emitters often requires different reflectors. So that changes the heat sink's pocket shape and the overall thickness.




Cheers
Dave

[Morelite]

Dave,

Yes, I want to do a P4 SSC swap to another P4 SSC (a natural white 4000°) and I don't want to disturb the current emitter since it is potted in the current heatsink and I want to be able to reuse it later on if needed.

Thanks,
Dwayne

[Shurock]

Was batch number three supposed to come with a bead that can be attached to the lanyard and used to open the battery cases?

[Data]

Was batch number three supposed to come with a bead that can be attached to the lanyard and used to open the battery cases?

I quit putting them in the box because I did not think anybody had used them!

[jch79]

I quit putting them in the box because I did not think anybody had used them!

I use mine! In fact, I like it so much that I toyed around with trying to get a Ti bead made.

john

[:)>]

Here goes the resale value on mine but I use the tip of my Sebbie to open up the battery case.

I have a couple of questions and one piece of trivia that might be helpful or not:

• Question: How can I get my 007 to have the little clicks as I change levels? I got to play around with AWTYD's 007 at PSM"s Shot Show Party and I really liked the way that it sounded and felt.
• Question: How is the knob sealed from water ingress?
• Trivia: I used wax over the battery case release to seal it from the elements. It was easy to apply and it looked and felt right.

Thanks.