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Thread: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

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    Default SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    With Dave's blessing and help, I've volunteered to design a manual for the SPY 007. Dave had the great idea that we open it up to get CPF's collective input on the instructions and possibilities, as the collective knowledge of many is greater than that of just one, even if that one is Dave!

    Please take some time to think about clear and concise instructions, for the above sections. The less wordy, the better.

    Then, I'll put it in a really cool looking PDF which we can maybe get printed out to fit inside the dimensions of the Pelican 1010 case, or you can just download and reference from your computer.

    Thanks!
    john

    For ongoing drafts, see post #2 below!
    Last edited by jch79; 10-30-2008 at 10:24 AM.

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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    SPY 007 MANUAL
    rev.2014.06.17

    Table of Contents:
    1) Quick start guide
    2) Changing batteries
    3) How to use the 007
    4) Care and cleaning
    5) Programming & the back door
    6) Attachment rail
    7) Lanyard hole
    8) Holsters
    9) Run time chart
    10) Easter Eggs
    11) Battery Spring, O-Rings, and Tritium Markers
    12) Technical Specifications
    13) Problems
    14) Warranty

    1) Quick start guide
    If your light came with batteries installed, you can simply turn it on by twisting the little round knob. Never look directly or let anybody look directly into such a powerful light - it gets very bright and can hurt your eyes.

    The SPY knob (switch) clicks into 7 discrete locations. They are positions zero through six. Looking at the knob from the front of the light (the LED end), the knob functions like a standard volume control, rotating the knob all the way in the CCW direction till it stops, is the “Off” position (zero position). Rotating the knob CW turns the light “ON” and so is the higher power direction. Switch setting 0 is off. Switch setting 1 is the lowest power setting, setting 2 is higher, and so it goes all the way to full power with setting 6. There is a stop at Off and a stop at full power, meaning you can not spin the knob all the way around 360 degrees.

    If you tried to turn the light on and nothing happened, then it is because the light does not have batteries in it. Please see section 2 on how to change batteries.

    2) Changing batteries
    If your light has batteries in it and you push on the tiny battery release pin with the pointy lead end of a wooden pencil, the battery cap will pop off! Please hold your finger over the cap as you push the pin so it does not go flying.

    If your light does not have batteries in it and you push on the tiny battery release pin with the pointy lead end of a wooden pencil, the battery cap will DO NOTHING. It will not come off. You have to pull it off while pushing on the pin at the same time. Please be careful not to drop the battery cap in this process. It helps to have three hands when doing this.

    After you have been using the light for some time, if you notice that power level 6 (high) and power level 5 are at the same brightness then it is time to replace the batteries. The SPY uses CR-123 lithium primary batteries. Cool Fall recommends that you use Surefire batteries in the SPY. Only use two new batteries in the SPY (two bats that have the same voltage level). Never use one old battery and one new battery; never never never. The SPY will operate on rechargeable RCR-123 batteries.

    When you are putting the batteries in the light please observe that they have polarity. On the battery that goes behind the LED, please put the “+” end in first. The other battery goes in with the “-” end in first. The battery cap must be pushed straight on. If it gets crooked it will stick and you have to take it off and start again. You can not hurt the light by putting the batteries in the wrong way. When changing batteries use power-up-0; the switch set to the off position by turning the knob fully counter-clockwise when facing the flat top of the knob (see Section 5 for more info).

    The SPY007 comes with two small beads which can be put on the lanyard and used to open the battery cap. To install a bead, first remove the lanyard. Then using dental floss, string the bead on the lanyard loop and slide it all the way up till it hits the plastic. Then using the floss again, string the lanyard back into the light. The bead will always be there when you want to pop the battery cap pin. Just place the bead right on top of the release pin and push.
    3) How to use the 007
    The multiple power levels let you rapidly choose the amount of light you need for any given task. Picking a lower light level will prolong the battery life.

    Getting the light out and rapidly spinning or flicking the switch to full “ON” is not only fun but it is a very fast way to turn on the SPY. We claim that it is the “fastest light in the West”.

    We can’t say what is the “best” way to hold the SPY, there are several common ways. Some like the knob down with your fingers wrapping around the light and others like the knob on top. Some use fingers to spin the knob and others use the thumb. In either case it only takes one hand to use a SPY.

    Battery consumption
    Power levels 5 & 6 will use up batteries quickly. Therefore, if you are on a long trip with only one set of batteries, use the lower power levels as much as possible to conserve battery power.

    4) Care and cleaning
    Titanium is a hard metal but not so hard that it can’t be scratched by just about any other metal. If you want your light to stay relatively new looking don’t ever put it in a pocket with any other object especially a hard plastic or metal object. Unlike hard anodized aluminum it will scratch easily. A simple and effective way to clean a titanium light is to use a wet paper towel with a little dish soap like Dawn. Wipe it softly with the grain of the machining marks. Dry it with a soft cotton cloth like a T-shirt.

    5) Programming & the back door
    When you put batteries in the SPY and then snap the battery cap on, that will “power-up” the STFu processor on the converter board. We will refer to “powering-up” the light many times in this tutorial. So to power-up the converter, simply replace the battery cap. Power-up does NOT imply turning on the LED, it powers the electronics. What position the switch is in when you power up the light, determines what mode the light will be put into. Normally you should keep the switch in the off position when changing the batteries. In this case the light works normally. This power-up-0 mode is the normal operating mode.

    The back door to the light lets you into its various features. Any power-up other than power-up-0 is going into the back door. These features are completely described below. However, none of these things are required reading, if all you want to do is use the light as is, please skip to the next section in this manual.

    For those of you interested in changing the power levels from the factory defaults, you use the power-up-4 and power-up-5 modes. See below. The default factory power levels 1 to 6 are: 2-5mA, 30mA, 90-95mA, 240-250mA, 500mA, 1000mA.
    The Seoul P4 and Cree XR-E 007’s run firmware versions Rel 2.X. The XP-G and XM-L 007s run firmware version Rel 3.X. There are differences in the various releases and they are noted below. The big difference with 3.X code is the user can set any knob position to any value they desire and they can do it directly by keying in the current they desire. One other difference is the addition of the configuration slot feature.

    This is a quick guide to the various Rel 2.X modes, skip to Rel 3.X for new lights:

    power-up-0 = normal change of batteries
    power-up-1 = easter eggs
    power-up-2 = enable and disable lock mode
    power-up-3 = factory reset and calibration
    power-up-4 = lower a power level
    power-up-5 = raise a power level
    power-up-6 = battery level indicator

    power-up-0 : normal startup
    This should be used for changing the batteries. When you perform a power-up-0 the LED will flash one time and then shut off.


    power-up-1 : easter eggs
    The easter eggs were a surprise back in the old days as I did not tell anybody how to get to them. Now however they are all detailed in Section 10. Some would even say they should not be called easter eggs, at this point, I kind of agree.


    power-up-2 : enable and disable the lock mode
    The purpose of the lock mode is so that you can throw the light in your back pack or pocket and not have to worry if the switch gets knocked to an on position. With the light locked it is safe and can not use the battery. The naturally sticky nature of the o-rings can grab the inside of your pants pocket or backpack and turn the light on. If you are going to EDC the 007 in your pocket, take one or both of the o-rings off! Having said that, if you prefer to use the o-rings anyway we added a lock feature to handle it.
    Before you can use the lock feature you have to enable it. The power-up-2 mode alternatively enables and disables the lock mode, by default from the factory, it is not enabled. It is also not enabled after a CAL (see power-up-3 below).

    To enable the lock mode, perform a power-up-2 - you should see the LED flash one time. Then turn the light off. To then disable the lock mode perform the power-up-2 again; this time you should see the LED flash twice.

    Using the lock mode is simple. Start with the light off. Turn the light on (power level 1 only) and off three times quickly and the light will lock. When locked it will run for 20 seconds and shut off. So each time the 007 is turned on you got 20 seconds of use. To unlock the light just use the same sequence again. It is just that simple.

    With the light locked, if it switches on in your pack, it will not use much of the battery. If you get it out and forget you had locked it, it will still give you instant light, and that is very important feature of this lock! It is easy to tell if it is in the locked state or not because it runs at 1/2 power and sweeps to the commanded setting.


    power-up-3 : factory reset & calibration (CAL)
    Perform a power-up-3 if:
    -you have changed a power level and want to put the light back to its default settings
    -your light is acting strangely
    -you have modded the light and put in a new LED

    When you perform a power-up-3, the LED starts a quick up and down sweeping for 10 seconds. This is just to let you know that it is about to run the CAL. After 10 seconds, it turns the LED on at about 100mA and starts getting dimmer. It will dim all the way down to the level 1’s 2mA and then start raising the LED’s output. It slowly records information as it converges on each power level. Once it gets to power level 6 it will start the quick up and down sweeping again for 5 seconds and then come on at power level 3.

    When the CAL slowly sweeps through the power levels it records the Vf data and rates for your emitter. This calibration takes a couple minutes and requires new or strong batteries ( batteries that can run the light to the full 1000mA of power ). If you are performing a power-up-3 and the light appears stuck at a level and is flickering pick up the light and hold it in your hand for a few seconds. Remember, when the calibration is finished the light will sweep a few times and then come on to PL3. During a calibration the light does not read the switch position. So if you want to stop it you will have to pull the battery cap off.


    power-up-4 : lower a power level
    Once you do a power-up-4, you have nine seconds to move the switch to the power level you want to modify. During that nine seconds the LED is sweeping, it sweeps nine times. It does this just so you know you have time to move the knob. So move the knob to the power level you want to modify and wait for the rest of the nine seconds to pass. Watch and you will see the sweeping will cease and the LED will be on steady except every second it will flicker. Each time it flickers it will be a little dimmer. See the chart below to know how much dimmer it gets each time it flickers. When the LED gets to the power you desire simply turn the knob to the off position. At this point the light is back to the normal operating mode.

    If after you adjust a few levels, you are not happy with how the light functions, perform a power-up-3.


    power-up-5 : raise a power level
    The power-up-5 mode works the exact same way as the power-up-4 mode except each time the LED flickers, it is getting brighter.

    As an example: Say you want to reduce the power of level 3 from the factory 90mA to a new value of 75mA. You take the battery cap off, then you set the knob to position 4, then you put the battery cap back on and then quickly (within nine seconds) move the knob to position 3. When the LED quits sweeping, it will be powered with exactly 90mA of current. Then count the number of times it flickers. When it has flickered 15 times, turn the knob to the off position. You are done.

    If after changing a power level the light does not come on when you turn the knob, perform a power-up-0. If you get confused and the light is not doing what you think it should be doing, perform a power-up-3. This will reset the light to factory levels and do a calibration.

    This chart shows how much each level changes each time the LED flickers and what range of adjustment you can perform:

    Power______Level+/-_______Range
    ===================================
    1__________<.1mA_________off to 100mA
    2__________1mA___________5mA to 100mA
    3__________1mA___________5mA to 100mA
    4__________5mA___________50mA to 1250mA
    5__________5mA___________50mA to 1250mA
    6__________5mA___________50mA to 1250mA


    power-up-6 : battery level indicator
    This meter reads the average voltage of the two batteries. It flashes out three significant digits. So if the voltage is 3.14V It will flash three times then pause then flash one time then pause then flash four times. If one of the digits is a zero, it flashes a very short pulse/strobe burst for that digit. The battery meter has an upper limit of 3.75 volts, so will not work with a Li-Ion battery charged to 4.2 volts. Demo video.



    This is a quick guide to the various Rel 3.X modes: start here for new lights

    power-up-0 = normal change of batteries
    power-up-1 = select configuration slot
    power-up-2 = enable and disable lock mode
    power-up-3 = factory reset and calibration
    power-up-4 = programming levels
    power-up-5 = power level report
    power-up-6 = battery level indicator

    power-up-1 : select config slot
    The EEPROM memory holds 4 complete configurations of the matrix of data needed to run the light. The PU-1 function enables storing and recalling the "active" configuration into the four storage locations. The use for this is may be that you have your light all set up the way you like it but you want to play with another configuration. The light is defaulted to configuration 1 when you get it. Just do a PU-1 and as the light is flashing move the knob to position 2. It will do a standard factory calibration for configuration slot 2 and then be ready for use and modification. At this point the light will act just as it did when you got it. Go ahead and play. To put it back to configuration slot 1, just do a PU-1 and wait till it quits flashing and turn it off. That is it. If you want to use other slots there are slots 1 through 4 available. Another good use for this is to have a "primary battery" low power configuration and a "rechargeable battery" high power setting.
    <<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Video of selecting configurations >>>>>>>>>>>>>> **this is a Tri-V video but still shows feature


    power-up-2 : enable and disable the lock mode
    The purpose of the lock mode is so that you can throw the light in your back pack or pocket and not have to worry if the switch gets knocked to an on position. With the light locked it is safe and can not use the battery. The naturally sticky nature of the o-rings can grab the inside of your pants pocket or backpack and turn the light on. If you are going to EDC the 007 in your pocket, take one or both of the o-rings off! Having said that, if you prefer to use the o-rings anyway we added a lock feature to handle it.
    Before you can use the lock feature you have to enable it. The power-up-2 mode alternatively enables and disables the lock mode, by default from the factory, it is not enabled. It is also not enabled after a CAL (see power-up-3 below).

    To enable the lock mode, perform a power-up-2 - you should see the LED flash one time. Then turn the light off. To then disable the lock mode perform the power-up-2 again; this time you should see the LED strobe very quickly, that depects a zero.

    Using the lock mode is simple. Start with the light off. Turn the light on all the way to power level 6 and back off VERY quickly, the light will lock. When locked it will only flash when turned on. To unlock the light just use the same sequence again. It is just that simple.


    power-up-3 : factory reset & calibration (CAL)
    Perform a power-up-3 if:
    -you have changed a power level and want to put the light back to its default settings
    -your light is acting strangely
    -you have modded the light and put in a new LED

    When you perform a power-up-3, the LED starts a quick up and down sweeping for 10 seconds. This is just to let you know that it is about to run the CAL. After 10 seconds, it turns the LED on at about 100mA and starts getting dimmer. It will dim all the way down to the level 1’s 2mA and then start raising the LED’s output. It slowly records information as it converges on each power level. Once it gets to power level 6 it will start the quick up and down sweeping again for 5 seconds and then come on at power level 3.

    When the CAL slowly sweeps through the power levels it records the Vf data and rates for your emitter. This calibration takes a couple minutes and requires new or strong batteries ( batteries that can run the light to the full 1000mA of power ). If you are performing a power-up-3 and the light appears stuck at a level and is flickering pick up the light and hold it in your hand for a few seconds. Remember, when the calibration is finished the light will sweep a few times and then come on to PL3. During a calibration the light does not read the switch position. So if you want to stop it you will have to pull the battery cap off.


    power-up-4 : programming
    see Light Engine Programming

    power-up-5 : power level report

    <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Video of power report feature >>>>>>>>>>>>> **this is a Tri-V video but still shows feature


    ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ****** ******


    Light Engine Programming

    If you choose to program the 007 you will need to read the following text and view the videos. Of course it is not necessary to ever change the power levels if you are happy with the default factory configuration. But having said that I know some of you will want to play. This really is the point of the 007, it will morph into the light you need, not the one I think you need.

    When you make changes to the settings on the 007, there is a progression that you will follow. There are flashes from the LED to let you know you are moving through the stage. First you choose the knob position you want to modify, then you select the power level you want.

    The power-up-4, abbreviated as “PU4”, lets you select the current [power level] the emitters will run at.

    As you enter PU4 the emitter will flash, it will do this for 10 seconds and it is your cue to set the knob position. As the LED is flashing the computer is not looking at the switch so it does not matter what positions you move the knob through. It only matters what position the knob is in when at the end of the 10 seconds when the LED stops flashing (or is fast flashing if you picked P1).

    These are the programming steps for setting emitters and power levels:
    1. power-up-4
    2. while light is flashing, select knob position to modify
    3. set the knob to home position P1 (the emitter will be fast flashing to let you know you are there)
    4. key in the sequence to set the power level (see definitions below)
    5. set knob to the off position P0
    6. light will flash for 10 seconds and end (before the light stops flashing you can go back to step 2)
    7. if you chose P0, the light will perform a calibration for the settings you modified (this takes several seconds)
    8. the light is now ready for use

    Knob/Switch position definitions to key in power levels:
    • knob position 0 = off
    • knob position 1 = home (emitter is fast flashing)
    • knob position 2 = add 1mA to total
    • knob position 3 = add 10mA to total
    • knob position 4 = add 100mA to total
    • knob position 5 = add 1000mA to total
    • knob position 6 = start dimming to values less than 5mA



    If you want to set the power to less than 5mA you MUST use the knob position 6 to do it (keying in less than 5mA will not work). When you are done with step 3 above, turn the knob directly to position 6 and just leave it there (you do not click it back and forth as you do with the lower positions). Simply stay on position 6 and watch as it sets the power to 5mA and then starts getting dimmer and dimmer. It takes a while but when the light output is what you want, turn the knob off.

    You can set multiple switch positions with a single power-up-4 by continually selecting various non zero switch positions before the flashing stops.

    Q: What would happen if you did the (PU4) but then quickly turned to P0. A: If you did this nothing would be changed in the light’s configuration.

    Before you start programming, plan out in your head what you want to accomplish. The 007 programming method does not show you what you get till after it is done. You put in mA values and it cals those targets. So it may be a good idea to record on paper what you want to do in advance of actually doing the programming.

    In the code stored in the 007 it has tables of various values. The first table lists what the default current will be if you do a factory calibration (Power Up 3). The second table will list the programming limits for each emitter (as an example you can only push the XP-G to 1500 mA).

    Default factory calibration values (note only one emitter is on at a time): These default power levels are kid friendly and battery friendly.
    • knob position 1: @ 5mA
    • knob position 2: @ 30mA
    • knob position 3: @ 90mA
    • knob position 4: @ 240mA
    • knob position 5: @ 500mA
    • knob position 6: @ 1000mA

    Programming Limit:
    • 1400mA for the XP-G2 and 3000 for XM-L and 3300mA for XM-L2

    Duty cycle limit is 1000mA. This is the upper limit for running at 100% duty cycle. Any programmed value beyond this limit will only run for 30-40 seconds before it is automatically pulled back to 1000mA.

    Once the emitter is pulled back to this limit it will be held there till you turn the light off. This gets a little detailed and I will try to explain as best I can. Consider this scenario. You program the light to run at 1400mA and turn it on. It will run at 1400 for 30 seconds then it will slowly cut back over the next 15 seconds to 1000mA and stay there till you switch to another position or turn the light off. If you do switch to another position but do not turn the light off, it will instantly go to its programmed setting but will start instantly cutting back to its 100%DCL. If you quickly turn the light off and back to the spot, the entire sequence will start over. So understand if you turn the light off it has no memory to tell it that it may already be hot! Beware of this and react accordingly. Yes the light has it's own over heating cutback protection but I would not want to push this.

    The fundamental issue is to manage all this extreme heating in this insanely small thermal mass. Those power users of you out there that want to crank the light beyond the factory configuration, please do so, but keep the light in your hand and learn how quick it heats up on various settings and on the various emitters. And react accordingly.




    IMR batteries example:
    If you have gotten the red IMR cells and have fully charged them then this is an example of how to set position 6 to the maximum value.

    PU4
    quickly go to P6

    wait till pulsing stops
    P1 (observe quick strobe)

    P5
    P4

    P5
    P4

    P5
    P0

    wait till pulsing stops, light cals level 6 to 3000 and then light shuts off

    After programming the light, make sure you got the setting you are trying for by checking it with a PU5

    Remember to use this level of power cautiously. It will heat up fast. Never give the light to anyone else while it is set at this high-level unless you are sure they know what they're dealing with.

    It is your responsibility to make sure the light does not get too hot. Only use new matched pair batteries. Keep the matched pairs labeled and never use them in another flashlight individually.

    If you have the newer SPY 007 XM-L2 then do one more P5 P4 cycle. That will set the level to 3300mA, that is because anything over the maximum of 3300 is not aloud.



    6) Attachment rail
    The bottom of every 007 will sport a miniature Picatinny type rail. It is useful for mounting the 007 and for adding attachments to the 007. There will be available, as an accessory, a generic clip/bolt on attachment for the rail.

    Attachments available:
    - General Purpose Rail Adapter


    - Mag-Mount Magnetic Base (attaches to the GP Rail Adapter)


    Attachments mentioned to date:*
    - Light stand
    - Pen holder “pen by Rothrandir”
    - Bottle opener
    - Knob guard
    - Pocket clip
    *Note: Attachments are not yet available
    7) Lanyard hole
    The concept is for this lanyard to aid in handling the light when it is in your hand. While holding the light and the strap at the same time you reduce the likelihood of dropping it. If you carry the light in a pocket the lanyard will last for at least a year then it may need to be replaced. If it does not look frayed, it is still very strong. When it starts to fray, replace it.

    To put the lanyard on the SPY, you need 18” (40cm) dental floss. Put the floss through the hole in the light and then through the loop on the lanyard and then back through the hole in the light. Grab both ends of the floss in one hand and the big end of the lanyard in the other hand. Pull tight so that the lanyard loop pulls into a tight point. With the lanyard loop like this it will slide through the hole in the light with almost no effort. Make sure the lanyard loop is aligned properly to fit through the rectangular hole in the light; it only goes in one way. If you get it right it will not hurt the small loop end on the lanyard at all. To finish, thread the big end of the lanyard through the small end.

    The supplied lanyard was designed to be minimalistic in your hand and your pocket. Besides the stock lanyard that is included with the SPY 007, there are many other options available, including buying pre-made lanyards from online stores or CandlePowerForums builders, or making your own.

    If you want to tether the light around your neck, you are going to have to use a split ring. My recommendation is to use a small split ring and then put the para-cord right through the split ring.


    8) Holsters
    If you are going to use a holster make sure it is fixed to your belt in a way that it can not come off. Tether the light to your belt if need be.

    The following are some options for holsters:
    -RipOff's Holsters : www.ripoffs.com - The CO-192 or BL-192 for Belt loop is a perfect fit.
    -Art of the Hide Holsters : www.artofthehide.com/Holester.html
    9) Run time chart
    CandlePowerForums member chevrofreak’s runtime plots for the SPY 005 (Luxeon III LED). It should be close to what the 007 would give for runtimes.




    10) Easter Eggs for early Rel 2.X flashlights only
    Execute a power-up-1 and then select level:
    Lvl 1: SOS (too fast for Coast Guard code)
    Lvl 2: Slow Blink
    Lvl 3: Slow Pulse
    Lvl 4: Locks Hz from set from lvl5 or lvl6
    Lvl 5: Decreases Hz
    Lvl 6: Increases Hz
    11) Battery Spring, O-Rings, and Tritium Markers
    Battery Spring
    To replace the battery spring if it falls out, put the bottom half (end closest to the release pin opening) in first by twisting the spring in a counter-clockwise direction.



    O-rings
    Knob o-rings: The o-rings are very easy to take off with a wooden toothpick, just dig right under the o-ring and pry it up so you can roll it off. Putting them on is easy with the following trick. Wrap several inches of thread or dental floss around the outer groove to fill it up. Then put the first o-ring right on top of it. It will then be easy for the o-ring to be pushed/rolled over to the inner groove because it can’t fall deep into the first groove. Take the thread off and put the next o-ring in the outer groove.

    O-ring sizes:
    Knob - Size 011, 5/16” ID and 1/16” diameter
    Tailcap - Size 020, 1” English Size

    Tritium
    There are two slots where tritium markers can be epoxied in the 007. The size of the markers should be 5mm x 1.5mm. Use a strong epoxy to glue the vials in - the most-used is Norland Optical Adhesive No.61, available from Edmund Optics, and occasionally available in smaller portions on CandlePowerForums. It’s totally clear, very durable, and extremely strong. Another method used is nail polish - nail polish remover a.k.a. pure acetone will dissolve the nail polish and it will wipe right out, if there is anything left. Or, simply use superglue. Whatever the case, be cautious with tritium and take any measure you can in making it securely adhered to the SPY 007.
    12) Technical Specifications
    Material: 6Al-4V Titanium
    Weight: 150g w/ batteries
    Dimensions: Approx. 3.05” by 1.55” by 0.95”
    Batteries: Primary (3v) CR123A Lithiums, Lithium-Ion (3.0-4.2v) RCR123
    LED: Seoul P4 -or- Cree XR-E (depending on which model SPY 007 you own)
    Reflector: Seoul P4 - modified McR-18; Cree XR-E - McR-17 XR
    Case: water resistant only, do not submerge
    13) Problems
    First and foremost, if your light acts up you need to replace the batteries with two brand new primary lithium batteries - preferably Surefire. Secondly, execute the CAL sequence (see power-up-3 in the programming section). Even if you did not think you changed the power levels (it can happen by accident). Thirdly, make sure there is no moisture inside the light. To do this open the light and set it in a warm place for 12 hours. A good place is on top of your computer monitor. If these steps do not remedy the problem please contact Cool Fall Inc.
    14) Warranty
    The 007 will have a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser of the light. There are a few exceptions due to abuse and leaking batteries. My intention is for the purchaser to enjoy the 007 and appreciate what went into its creation. If you like it, don’t hesitate to EDC it, as the SPY is engineered to last.
    Also, as was with the 005 the 007 is intrinsically designed to live through current LED technology and be upgradeable to newer emitters . Cool Fall does not offer upgrade services but a few of the CPF modders do. Please be advised that modding the light voids its warranty.
    Last edited by Data; 06-17-2014 at 02:28 PM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    John, thank you for volunteering for this project. I am very excited about this.

    Everybody, please do not hesitate to post in this thread. We need to scour all of our threads here and find bits and pieces to fill in the text. If you find something you think is relevant just cut and past it to a post here and John will take it from there. John wants this to be concise and I agree but your posts do not need to be. We will rewrite as necessary.

    If you think the organization is off or there needs to be another section, please just speak right up.

    This is not the Question and Answer thread! None of that here, OK? Please post your questions in Hodsta's "Spy Questions" thread.

    John is planning to take photos for the manual. But if there are photos you have that will help please post them here too.

    Cheers
    Dave
    Last edited by Data; 10-23-2008 at 07:06 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Sweeeeeet idea!

  5. #5
    Flashaholic* griff's Avatar
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    1) Quick start guide
    2) How to use the 007
    3) Changing batteries
    4) Care and cleaning
    5) Programming
    6) Attachment rail
    7) Lanyard hole
    8) Holsters
    9) Easter egg's
    Sometimes, when I'm feeling down because nothing seems to be going right, I like to take a home pregnancy test. Then I can say, "Hey, at least I'm not pregnant

  6. #6
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    Default .

    .
    Last edited by Drywolf; 10-27-2008 at 03:19 PM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Great idea John ! Since the 007 was announced, I've been adding bits and pieces of posts to my Google notebook, as my own personal user manual. When I get a little more time, I'll check and see if I can contribute anything to this thread which may be useful to others.

    Since one of my lights is a future light for my son, I think it would be so cool to put a little manual in with it.
    Chris

  8. #8

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Took a while to find this post.


    RE: Tiny beads used for pressing the battery cap release button.

    Quote Originally Posted by Data View Post
    Congrats, white light, that is what they are for. I did not put them on the lanyard for two reasons. They could scratch the light and they are hard to put on the lanyard. So I know most of you will not use them.

    If you do want to try them, take the lanyard off. Then using dental floss, string the bead on the lanyard loop and slide it all the way up till it hits the plastic. Then using the floss again, string the lanyard back into the light. The bead will always be there when you want to pop the battery cap pin. Just place the bead right on top of the release pin and push.


    Cheers
    Dave

  9. #9
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Here is some info I copied from posts about trits on the 007.


    Tritium - There are two trit slots in the 007. They are unchanged from the slots in the 005. The 5mm x 1.5mm size is good. I have used B@rts trit before.

    Having said that I got some from Orb that did not fit! They were a few thousands of an inch too long. Very odd but not a problem, I just touched them a couple times on the end with the fine diamond block and in they went right in.

    Put the trit in the slot and use a needle to pick up a very small amount of clear polish and dab it at each end. Less is more. This works here only because the slots in the SPY are, by their local, very protected.

    I have one yellow and one blue in my old 005.

    Wow that's a nice tip. Once the trit is "glued" in place with the nail polish, how can you safely remore it? And will it leave the slot perfectly clean or will you have to actually run something in it to remove all the polish?

    Thanks for the details, I might well give it a try! But I don't want something sticky in the slots that I can't remove clean...

    Nail polish remover a.k.a. pure acetone will dissolve the nail polish and it will wipe right out, if there is anything left.

    And titanium is impervious to acetone. (along with most other metals). But keep acetone away from anything plastic, especially clear plastic. You should see what acetone does to styrofoam cups.

    Per Darell... Use white iridescent polish to lightly coat the bottom and sides of the opening and wait for it to dry. Then place trit and "pour" Norland 61 (or similar) over all to the top of the cavity.
    Chris

  10. #10
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    O-rings.

    Knob o-rings: The o-rings are very easy to take off with a wooden tooth pic, just dig right under the o-ring and pry it up so you can roll it off.

    Putting them on is easy with the following trick. Wrap several inches of thread or dental floss around the outer groove to fill it up. Then put the first o-ring right on top of it. It will then be easy for the o-ring to be pushed/rolled over to the inner groove because it can't fall deep into the first groove. Take the thread off and put the next o-ring in the outer groove.

    BTW, the o-rings are size 011 ( 5/16 ID and 1/16 dia).
    Tailcap - Size 020, 1" English Size
    Knob - Size 011
    Chris

  11. #11

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Great idea,
    I had already posted on a casual holster that fits great and it comes either Belt or Clip models. Someone else posted a nice one but still don't think we have a # for it.
    I think we all know of RipOff's Holsters. The CO-192 or BL-192 for Belt loop is a perfect fit.

    These are great while we wait for Matt/AotH to get caught up a little.

    Thanks
    X/BillyD..
    So much to learn, so little time.. ')
    DFW Texas Spring Fling CPF and LPF Flashapalooza, TBA? ')

  12. #12
    Flashaholic* Scottiver's Avatar
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    I was going to suggest we start a thread like this. Thanks for doing this.
    A couple of ideas i have are a general information section on the light such as which LED it uses, which reflector is used and what type of titanium it is made out of and which types of batteries it uses (rechargeable?), lumens ratings for each level, run times at each level, etc. I think this information would be handy to have available.

  13. #13

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    current offerings from AW (protected rcr123) fit and work fine.

  14. #14
    Flashaholic* Chronos's Avatar
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    Evilgrin07 Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Let's add that the split rings included on the Lighthound faux photon lights are a perfect fit for the lanyard slot.



    A few favorite lights from: McGizmo, Data, milkyspit, HDS, and Surefire

  15. #15

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Quote Originally Posted by Scottiver View Post
    I was going to suggest we start a thread like this. Thanks for doing this.
    A couple of ideas i have are a general information section on the light such as which LED it uses, which reflector is used and what type of titanium it is made out of and which types of batteries it uses (rechargeable?), lumens ratings for each level, run times at each level, etc. I think this information would be handy to have available.
    That sounds great Scottiver. We can add a section titled "Technical
    Specifications" for this info. Please if you want take a stab at it and I will chime in. Curb Weight 150g , Reflector is McR-18 specially modified for Seoul P4, . . .

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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Wow, thanks for the input already, guys! I'm going to get to updating this today.

    I didn't think there were any easter eggs with the 007?

  17. #17

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Quote Originally Posted by Chronos View Post
    Let's add that the split rings included on the Lighthound faux photon lights are a perfect fit for the lanyard slot.
    This is a great solution that you and Scott and others came up with. I think we could use a crop of the pic in the manual.
    Last edited by Data; 10-24-2008 at 11:24 AM.

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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    You can also get just about any size split ring from the Sandwich Shoppe.

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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Thanks for the updates everyone - I've updated it with the above info. If I missed anything or wasn't clear or correct, please let me know!

    Still a ways to go, and I've not taken or inserted photos yet.

    john

  20. #20

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    John,

    I'd already made a start on this with the intention of including in the Spy Q's thread so it does include some duplication and some stuff not that paper friendly. You, of course, have full editorial control.

    Will continue to update as I get chance.

    Hods
    -------------------------------------------------------------------
    FAQ's

    Is there a manual for the Spy 007?
    Yes! Here (link to STFu instructions) and here (right here)

    How do I open the battery compartment?
    This is the Spy initiation, if you can't work it out the Spy must be returned to Data for distribution via CPF raffle!

    Which LED is used in the Spy 007?
    First Release: Seoul P4 emitter bin USW0H
    Second Release: Seoul P4 emitter bin U2SW0H

    Which reflector is used in the Spy007?
    Custom cut McR-18.

    Will the Spy 007 accept rechargeables?
    Yes, the Spy will accept any 123's that will fit in the battery compartment up to a max voltage of "I forget what Wayne told me, I think around 10v." Data

    What is the drive level of the Spy 007?
    Variable from a "nats ass" to 1250mA across 6 levels.

    What are the runtimes?
    No new data for Spy 007 - for best estimation refer to........ Link to Chevofreak

    How much does the Spy007 weigh?
    147g with 2 batteries.

    What do I do for replacement o-rings?
    Knob: "I supply vitron o-rings because they are not as sticky as Bruna-N. The knob uses size 011 o-rings. You can get Bruna-N o-rings at most large hardware stores and home stores." Data

    Battery compartment: Size 020, 1" English Size

    Is the Spy007 waterproof?
    "The 007 is water resistant. I use mine around my machine tools that throw coolant everywhere and often in the rain as well. There is an o-ring seal at every opening except the battery cap release pin. If you want that sealed better it is a simple procedure using silicon caulk to fill the well under the spring. It is not necessary unless you often work in the rain all day. The SPY will suffer no ill effects if you drop it in the bath tub while playing flashlight tag with your rubber duck. " Data

    My battery spring has come off, what do I do?
    "The spring is not held into the cap as tight as I would like but it will not pop off unless you pull it off. I recommend taking it off one time so you can see how to put it back. The tip I give people is to put it into the bottom end first (end closer to the lanyard hole) by pushing and twisting CCW. Twisting CCW makes the diameter of the spring smaller. Then hold that same end in place while you put the other end in." Data

    I'm having trouble attaching the lanyard, help me out.
    "You need 18" (40cm) dental floss. You put the floss through the hole in the light and then through the loop on the lanyard and then back through the hole in the light. Grab both ends of the floss in one hand and the big end of the lanyard in the other hand. Pull tight so that the lanyard loop pulls into a tight point. With the lanyard loop like this it will slide through the hole in the light with almost no effort. Yea, it takes a third hand to do it or some dexterity. Make sure the lanyard loop is rotated (aligned) properly to fit through the rectangular hole in the light, it only goes in one way. If you get it right it will not hurt the small loop end on the lanyard at all. To finish thread the big end of the lanyard through the small end.
    " Data

    How on earth does Data make this light?
    .......Link to You Tube Vids

    How many Spys have been made?
    First Release c.30, Second Release c.100.

    My serial number is xxxx does that mean mine was the xxxx'th produced?/Can I request a serial number?
    "The serial number is really for internal use only. They help me keep track of production. The numbering started way back on the first 005's. Not all numbers exist either and I do not ship the lights out in serial number order, they are in random order as I pull them from the shelf. I have had many requests for a specific number but I don't accommodate those requests any longer." Data


    What is the pale white disc separating the switch knob from the body, what is it made of, is it to reduce friction or perform some other purpose?
    It is a teflon disc to reduce friction.

    I received a white and black bead with my Spy, what are they for?
    See FAQ number 2!

    How do I tighten/loosen the bezel on my Spy007?
    Press the bezel against a high friction suface such as butyl rubber e.g. a used car tire/inner tube or a thick rubber glove and twist in the appropriate direction.

    What does STFu stand for?
    Amongst others "Super Tiny cool Fall micro(u)" processor.

    What is the rating of the switch in the Spy007?
    "10,000 cycles at full current, however the switch has almost no current through it. ~100 uA or something. It should last for decades. Not a single switch has failed to date." Data

    Could I make my own Spy007?
    "Yes - easy" Thujone

    Pic courtesy of Thujone

    Is the Spy a good choice for EDC?
    How big are your pockets?

    Pic courtesy of Jch79!

    Interesting Spy Facts
    Spy 007 #201 - Is the only Spy in the public domain with the serial number on the rail as opposed to either side of the lanyard hole. Currently owned by the CPFer with the fastest reactions in the civilsed world - PSM.

    More to follow...........
    Last edited by Hodsta; 10-25-2008 at 09:53 AM.
    Favs: TiPD-S's, Spy 007s

  21. #21
    Flashaholic* :)>'s Avatar
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Quote Originally Posted by Hodsta View Post
    Interesting Spy Facts
    Spy 007 #201 - Is the only Spy in the public domain with the serial number on the rail as opposed to either side of the lanyard hole. Currently owned by the CPFer with the fastest reactions in the civilsed world - PSM.
    -Goatee

  22. #22
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Quote Originally Posted by Chronos View Post
    Let's add that the split rings included on the Lighthound faux photon lights are a perfect fit for the lanyard slot.



    Chronos! Look at the dust on your 007

    You better not be using that wonderful looking flashlight



    Good idea on the split ring by the way.
    -Goatee

  23. #23
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    Evilgrin07 Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Quote Originally Posted by Hodsta View Post
    John,

    Blah blah bladdidy blah blah boring details blah blah blah (with a distinct British accent) blah blah blah, tea time, blah...



    I thought Data said there were no other finishes beyond machined!

    WTH?





    That is HILARIOUS!!!
    A few favorite lights from: McGizmo, Data, milkyspit, HDS, and Surefire

  24. #24
    Flashaholic* Chronos's Avatar
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    Evilgrin07 Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Quote Originally Posted by :)> View Post
    Chronos! Look at the dust on your 007

    You better not be using that wonderful looking flashlight



    Good idea on the split ring by the way.
    Crap! My SPY007 is freaking HAIRY. Yecchhh.

    Not my idea on the split ring, but it sure works!

    Nah, I don't use it. I simply abuse it.
    A few favorite lights from: McGizmo, Data, milkyspit, HDS, and Surefire

  25. #25

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    LOL

    Jim - have you been at the anejo again

    Blah, blah, blah, scones anyone?
    Last edited by Hodsta; 10-24-2008 at 07:57 PM.
    Favs: TiPD-S's, Spy 007s

  26. #26
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Quote Originally Posted by Hodsta View Post
    Spy 007 #201 - Is the only Spy in the public domain with the serial number on the rail as opposed to either side of the lanyard hole. Currently owned by the CPFer with the fastest reactions in the civilsed world - PSM.



    LOL
    -PSM

  27. #27
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    As an owner of both 005s and an 007, it would be very handy to see the differences, especially on the power up modes and gadgets. Maybe I'll get off my overworked, yet lazy butt and come up with it.
    ::I don't always carry a flashlight, but when I do, I prefer Tri-V. Stay illuminated my friends::

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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    We're getting there. Still some obvious gaps which will need to be filled in.

    Please look it over and let me know what I can do to add/subtract/improve the instructions.

    john

  29. #29
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Dumb question of the day:

    How do you get the battery cap off when there are no batteries inside?

    I know I've seen this answered somewhere but I can't find it. And no, I'm not sending it back to Dave for a lottery giveaway.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Quote Originally Posted by arewethereyetdad View Post
    Dumb question of the day:

    How do you get the battery cap off when there are no batteries inside?

    I know I've seen this answered somewhere but I can't find it. And no, I'm not sending it back to Dave for a lottery giveaway.
    Troy,

    Per Dave's post above:

    Quote Originally Posted by Data View Post
    This is not the Question and Answer thread! None of that here, OK? Please post your questions in Hodsta's "Spy Questions" thread.
    Here's Hod's question thread... and good luck with that!

    john
    Last edited by jch79; 10-27-2008 at 03:14 PM.

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