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Thread: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

  1. #61

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    For those of us who haven't been around for a good while, are the run-time graphs from an upgraded 005?
    The shadows are darkest during the day.

  2. #62
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Quote Originally Posted by Archangel View Post
    For those of us who haven't been around for a good while, are the run-time graphs from an upgraded 005?
    Archangel,

    AFAIK, runtimes for ALL SPY's are very similar (if not identical) to the ones above.

    john

    BTW, welcome back!!
    Last edited by jch79; 11-11-2008 at 11:30 AM.

  3. #63

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    The reason i ask is because - from what i've read - the mA levels were changed between the two boards, in some cases by a decent amount: 6->2, 20->30, 100->90, 400->250, 700->500, 1000->1000. Are the numbers i found for the old board incorrect?

    (grin) Oh, and thanks!
    The shadows are darkest during the day.

  4. #64
    Flashaholic* Scottiver's Avatar
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    In the section on Easter eggs, I don't understand what level 4-6 mean.
    Especially level 4, it doesn't read like proper English.
    Lvl 1: SOS (too fast for coast guard code)
    Lvl 2: Slow Blink
    Lvl 3: Slow Pulse
    Lvl 4: locks hz from set from lvl5 or lvl6
    Lvl 5: decreases hz
    Lvl 6: increases hz

    What does hz mean?
    And I think it would look and read better if you wrote the entire word level instead of abbreviating it to lvl.

  5. #65
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    hz should actually be Hz as that is the real abbreviation for Hertz as in frequency, i.e. one cycle per second. So level 5 and 6 are used to adjust the rate down and up respectively. Level 4 locks the rate adjustment from using Level 5 and 6.
    Arc6K2 / Aeon / BitZ / Draco / P3D,P2D / Quark123 / GatLight_Tuxedo / JetIIIPro_Ti / LF2,X,XT,LF3,XT,LF5XT / Avenger,IncenDio,MRV / LunaSol20 / LegionII,SpartanianII / NiteCore_DI,EX10 / Novatac120P / T20,M20 / Ra_100T,140C / RaidFireSpear / Spy007 / Minimus,Titan T1A

  6. #66
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Thanks for the notes guys, I'm working on it right now!
    john

  7. #67
    Flashaholic* coloradogps's Avatar
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    A couple of miss-spellings:

    Tooth pic, should be tooth pick or toothpick:

    O-rings
    Knob o-rings: The o-rings are very easy to take off with a wooden tooth pic, just dig right under the o-ring and pry it up so you can roll it off. Putting them on is easy with the following trick. Wrap several inches of thread or dental floss around the outer groove to fill it up. Then put the first o-ring right on top of it. It will then be easy for the o-ring to be pushed/rolled over to the inner groove because it can't fall deep into the first groove. Take the thread off and put the next o-ring in the outer groove.


    And... completely spelled wrong.

    The back door to the light lets you into its various features. Any power-up other than power-up-0 is going into the back door. These features are completly described here. However, none of these things are required reading, if all you want to do is use the light as is, please skip to the next section in this manual.

    Thanks....

  8. #68
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Thanks coloradogps! Changes made.
    john

  9. #69
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    A tip that might be added to the power-up-2 section of the manual:

    For those Spy007 users that prefer to carry it in their front pockets, you can simply enable power-up-2 lock mode to prevent your light from being accidentally turned on OR I find that just removing the upper o-ring is also enough to prevent the light from accidentally "rubbing" itself into the power on modes. The advantage of having just the lower o-ring in place is that it still provides the more tactile response but with a much lower chance of accidental power ups. With both o-rings installed I've found that the Spy007 in my front pocket is almost always turned on and usually up near power levels 4 or 5.

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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Thanks tpchan,
    I added a (one or both) note to that section to taking the O-rings off.
    john

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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Made a couple of tweaks, and added the GP Rail Adapter that's now available for purchase.

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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Updated to show the 007 Cree XR-E version in the specs, including the different reflector.

  13. #73

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    A little word of warning that i assume applies to the 007 since it does the 005: the negative non-spring contact is picky when it comes to batteries, and doesn't like even some made-in-the-US ones. It seems the little nub isn't long enough. I don't know if this is related, but if dropped, mine loses contact with one of the batteries long enough to start a power-up mode, which at best qualifies as "annoying".
    The shadows are darkest during the day.

  14. #74
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    As in the instruction manual is mentioned that i could use the Spy007
    with Rcr123...

    Rcr123 with 4.2V or 3.0V????

  15. #75
    Flashaholic* FrogmanM's Avatar
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Hey Toby,

    I'm not sure on the official ruling, but I've been running #318 on AW 3.7v Black R123s for some time now, with no problems.

    -Mayo

  16. #76
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Quote Originally Posted by FrogmanM View Post
    Hey Toby,

    I'm not sure on the official ruling, but I've been running #318 on AW 3.7v Black R123s for some time now, with no problems.

    -Mayo
    Many thanky for letting me know!

  17. #77
    Flashaholic* UnderTheWeepingMoon's Avatar
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    I think Data has stated in the past that the STFu is indeed compatible with RCR123s. I also used AW R123s in my 005 without any problems.
    .:: My Lights ::.

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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Yes, it's compatible with AW R123's - while they're considered 3.6v batteries, they come off the charger 4.2v, and still are all good for the SPY's.

    In the manual (which I should update with the master one I keep on my computer, which Data & I were tweaking), I say:

    Lithium-Ion (3.6v) RCR123
    Do you think I should say 3.0v-4.2v for the Li-Ion's?

    john

  19. #79
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    It's worth remembering that the 007's voltage meter is meant for primaries, and will not read the higher voltage of rechargeables, even though rechargeables are suitable.

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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Ok, I've updated the text to be up-to-date with the offline "print" version, and have changed the specs at the end for Li-Ion's to say 3.0-4.2v (since they make 3v Li-Ion's as well.
    Rudi, good point... I just clarified that in the Battery Level Indicator section.
    john
    Last edited by jch79; 05-27-2009 at 11:07 AM.

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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    I also added a couple of pictures, and links to the Picatinny Rail accessories.

  22. #82

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Quote Originally Posted by Rudi View Post
    It's worth remembering that the 007's voltage meter is meant for primaries, and will not read the higher voltage of rechargeables, even though rechargeables are suitable.
    As soon as the voltage drops below 3.75 it will give an accurate reading. And that is very quick I might add.

  23. #83
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Thanks Dave!

  24. #84

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    ==================================================
    ========================
    This post is from the HTML recovered from Google Cashed Data. It represents the information from the original posts made by various CPF members to this thread. Rebuilding this thread was necessary because the original posts were lost in the "Great CPF Server Crash of 2011".
    ========================
    ==================================================




    Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort
    Written by StrayLight on 12-22-2010 10:23 PM GMT

    Why on earth did this fall off the first page? Sticky, dammit.

    Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort
    Written by easilyled on 12-23-2010 04:35 AM GMT

    I thought I'd state the factory settings again as they're not that easy to find:-

    2mA, 30mA, 100mA, 250mA, 500mA and 1000mA.

    Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort
    Written by jch79 on 12-23-2010 08:39 AM GMT

    Hey, this thread! Dave, we should put the PDF up here for people to download and print out.

    Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort
    Written by coloradogps on 12-23-2010 08:46 AM GMT

    Like this....

    https://files.me.com/rafoster/7hg995



    Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort
    Written by jch79 on 12-23-2010 09:12 AM GMT

    Quote Originally Posted by coloradogps
    Yup... just nicer looking.

    http://www.mediafire.com/?o2f0xx7ok8...nt></b></font>

    Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort
    Written by Rudi on 12-23-2010 11:00 AM GMT

    Beautiful PDF version of themanual. Neat, thorough and easy to read.
    It will now need instructions for the updated STFU.

    Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort
    Written by jch79 on 12-23-2010 11:05 AM GMT

    Quote Originally Posted by Rudi
    Beautiful PDF version of the manual. Neat, thorough and easy to read.
    It will now need instructions for the updated STFU.
    Dave, we've got some work to do!!

  25. #85
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Thanks, Dave!

  26. #86

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    This is just a copy of the manual saved here. I will delete it later when the updated manual is finished in post #2 above.
    SPY 007 MANUAL
    rev.2009.05.27

    Table of Contents:
    1) Quick start guide
    2) Changing batteries
    3) How to use the 007
    4) Care and cleaning
    5) Programming & the back door
    6) Attachment rail
    7) Lanyard hole
    8) Holsters
    9) Run time chart
    10) Easter Eggs
    11) Battery Spring, O-Rings, and Tritium Markers
    12) Technical Specifications
    13) Problems
    14) Warranty

    1) Quick start guide
    If your light came with batteries installed, you can simply turn it on by twisting the little round knob. Never look directly or let anybody look directly into such a powerful light - it gets very bright and can hurt your eyes.

    The SPY knob (switch) clicks into 7 discrete locations. They are positions zero through six. Looking at the knob from the front of the light (the LED end), the knob functions like a standard volume control, rotating the knob all the way in the CCW direction till it stops, is the “Off” position (zero position). Rotating the knob CW turns the light “ON” and so is the higher power direction. Switch setting 0 is off. Switch setting 1 is the lowest power setting, setting 2 is higher, and so it goes all the way to full power with setting 6. There is a stop at Off and a stop at full power, meaning you can not spin the knob all the way around 360 degrees.

    If you tried to turn the light on and nothing happened, then it is because the light does not have batteries in it. Please see section 2 on how to change batteries.

    2) Changing batteries
    If your light has batteries in it and you push on the tiny battery release pin with the pointy lead end of a wooden pencil, the battery cap will pop off! Please hold your finger over the cap as you push the pin so it does not go flying.

    If your light does not have batteries in it and you push on the tiny battery release pin with the pointy lead end of a wooden pencil, the battery cap will DO NOTHING. It will not come off. You have to pull it off while pushing on the pin at the same time. Please be careful not to drop the battery cap in this process. It helps to have three hands when doing this.

    After you have been using the light for some time, if you notice that power level 6 (high) and power level 5 are at the same brightness then it is time to replace the batteries. The SPY uses CR-123 lithium primary batteries. Cool Fall recommends that you use Surefire batteries in the SPY. Only use two new batteries in the SPY (two bats that have the same voltage level). Never use one old battery and one new battery; never never never. The SPY will operate on rechargeable RCR-123 batteries.

    When you are putting the batteries in the light please observe that they have polarity. On the battery that goes behind the LED, please put the “+” end in first. The other battery goes in with the “-” end in first. The battery cap must be pushed straight on. If it gets crooked it will stick and you have to take it off and start again. You can not hurt the light by putting the batteries in the wrong way. When changing batteries use power-up-0; the switch set to the off position by turning the knob fully counter-clockwise when facing the flat top of the knob (see Section 5 for more info).

    The SPY007 comes with two small beads which can be put on the lanyard and used to open the battery cap. To install a bead, first remove the lanyard. Then using dental floss, string the bead on the lanyard loop and slide it all the way up till it hits the plastic. Then using the floss again, string the lanyard back into the light. The bead will always be there when you want to pop the battery cap pin. Just place the bead right on top of the release pin and push.
    3) How to use the 007
    The multiple power levels let you rapidly choose the amount of light you need for any given task. Picking a lower light level will prolong the battery life.

    Getting the light out and rapidly spinning or flicking the switch to full “ON” is not only fun but it is a very fast way to turn on the SPY. We claim that it is the “fastest light in the West”.

    We can’t say what is the “best” way to hold the SPY, there are several common ways. Some like the knob down with your fingers wrapping around the light and others like the knob on top. Some use fingers to spin the knob and others use the thumb. In either case it only takes one hand to use a SPY.

    Battery consumption
    Power levels 5 & 6 will use up batteries quickly. Therefore, if you are on a long trip with only one set of batteries, use the lower power levels as much as possible to conserve battery power.

    4) Care and cleaning
    Titanium is a hard metal but not so hard that it can’t be scratched by just about any other metal. If you want your light to stay relatively new looking don’t ever put it in a pocket with any other object especially a hard plastic or metal object. Unlike hard anodized aluminum it will scratch easily. A simple and effective way to clean a titanium light is to use a wet paper towel with a little dish soap like Dawn. Wipe it softly with the grain of the machining marks. Dry it with a soft cotton cloth like a T-shirt.

    5) Programming & the back door
    The default factory power levels 1 to 6 are: 2mA, 30mA, 90mA, 250mA, 500mA, 1000mA. When you put batteries in the SPY and then snap the battery cap on, that will “power-up” the STFu processor on the converter board. We will refer to “powering-up” the light many times in this tutorial. So to power-up the converter, simply replace the battery cap. Power-up does NOT imply turning on the LED. What position the switch is in when you power up the light determines what mode the light will be put into. Normally you should keep the switch in the off position when changing the batteries. In this case the light works normally. This power-up-0 mode is the normal operating mode.

    The back door to the light lets you into its various features. Any power-up other than power-up-0 is going into the back door. These features are completely described here. However, none of these things are required reading, if all you want to do is use the light as is, please skip to the next section in this manual.

    For those of you interested in changing the power levels from the factory defaults listed above, you use the power-up-4 and power-up-5 modes. See below.

    This is a quick guide to the various modes:

    power-up-0 = normal change of batteries
    power-up-1 = easter eggs
    power-up-2 = enable and disable lock mode
    power-up-3 = factory reset and calibration
    power-up-4 = lower a power level
    power-up-5 = raise a power level
    power-up-6 = battery level indicator


    power-up-0 : normal startup
    This should be used for changing the batteries. When you perform a power-up-0 the LED will flash one time and then shut off.


    power-up-1 : easter eggs
    The easter eggs were a surprise back in the old days as I did not tell anybody how to get to them. Now however they are all detailed in Section 10. Some would even say they should not be called easter eggs, at this point, I kind of agree.


    power-up-2 : enable and disable the lock mode
    The purpose of the lock mode is so that you can throw the light in your back pack or pocket and not have to worry if the switch gets knocked to an on position. With the light locked it is safe and can not use the battery. The naturally sticky nature of the o-rings can grab the inside of your pants pocket or backpack and turn the light on. If you are going to EDC the 007 in your pocket, take one or both of the o-rings off! Having said that, if you prefer to use the o-rings anyway we added a lock feature to handle it.
    Before you can use the lock feature you have to enable it. The power-up-2 mode alternatively enables and disables the lock mode, by default from the factory, it is not enabled. It is also not enabled after a CAL (see power-up-3 below).

    To enable the lock mode, perform a power-up-2 - you should see the LED flash one time. Then turn the light off. To then disable the lock mode perform the power-up-2 again; this time you should see the LED flash twice.

    Using the lock mode is simple. Start with the light off. Turn the light on (power level 1 only) and off three times quickly and the light will lock. When locked it will run for 20 seconds and shut off. So each time the 007 is turned on you got 20 seconds of use. To unlock the light just use the same sequence again. It is just that simple.

    With the light locked, if it switches on in your pack, it will not use much of the battery. If you get it out and forget you had locked it, it will still give you instant light, and that is very important feature of this lock! It is easy to tell if it is in the locked state or not because it runs at 1/2 power and sweeps to the commanded setting.


    power-up-3 : factory reset & calibration (CAL)
    Perform a power-up-3 if:
    -you have changed a power level and want to put the light back to its default settings
    -your light is acting strangely
    -you have modded the light and put in a new LED

    When you perform a power-up-3, the LED starts a quick up and down sweeping for 10 seconds. This is just to let you know that it is about to run the CAL. After 10 seconds, it turns the LED on at about 100mA and starts getting dimmer. It will dim all the way down to the level 1’s 2mA and then start raising the LED’s output. It slowly records information as it converges on each power level. Once it gets to power level 6 it will start the quick up and down sweeping again for 5 seconds and then come on at power level 3.

    When the CAL slowly sweeps through the power levels it records the Vf data and rates for your emitter. This calibration takes a couple minutes and requires new or strong batteries ( batteries that can run the light to the full 1000mA of power ). If you are performing a power-up-3 and the light appears stuck at a level and is flickering pick up the light and hold it in your hand for a few seconds. Remember, when the calibration is finished the light will sweep a few times and then come on to PL3. During a calibration the light does not read the switch position. So if you want to stop it you will have to pull the battery cap off.


    power-up-4 : lower a power level
    Once you do a power-up-4, you have nine seconds to move the switch to the power level you want to modify. During that nine seconds the LED is sweeping, it sweeps nine times. It does this just so you know you have time to move the knob. So move the knob to the power level you want to modify and wait for the rest of the nine seconds to pass. Watch and you will see the sweeping will cease and the LED will be on steady except every second it will flicker. Each time it flickers it will be a little dimmer. See the chart below to know how much dimmer it gets each time it flickers. When the LED gets to the power you desire simply turn the knob to the off position. At this point the light is back to the normal operating mode.

    If after you adjust a few levels, you are not happy with how the light functions, perform a power-up-3.


    power-up-5 : raise a power level
    The power-up-5 mode works the exact same way as the power-up-4 mode except each time the LED flickers, it is getting brighter.

    As an example: Say you want to reduce the power of level 3 from the factory 90mA to a new value of 75mA. You take the battery cap off, then you set the knob to position 4, then you put the battery cap back on and then quickly (within nine seconds) move the knob to position 3. When the LED quits sweeping, it will be powered with exactly 90mA of current. Then count the number of times it flickers. When it has flickered 15 times, turn the knob to the off position. You are done.

    If after changing a power level the light does not come on when you turn the knob, perform a power-up-0. If you get confused and the light is not doing what you think it should be doing, perform a power-up-3. This will reset the light to factory levels and do a calibration.

    This chart shows how much each level changes each time the LED flickers and what range of adjustment you can perform:

    Power______Level+/-_______Range
    ===================================
    1__________<.1mA_________off to 100mA
    2__________1mA___________5mA to 100mA
    3__________1mA___________5mA to 100mA
    4__________5mA___________50mA to 1250mA
    5__________5mA___________50mA to 1250mA
    6__________5mA___________50mA to 1250mA


    power-up-6 : battery level indicator
    This meter reads the average voltage of the two batteries. It flashes out three significant digits. So if the voltage is 3.14V It will flash three times then pause then flash one time then pause then flash four times. If one of the digits is a zero, it flashes a very short pulse/strobe burst for that digit. The battery meter has an upper limit of 3.75 volts, so will not work with a Li-Ion battery charged to 4.2 volts. Demo video.

    6) Attachment rail
    The bottom of every 007 will sport a miniature Picatinny type rail. It is useful for mounting the 007 and for adding attachments to the 007. There will be available, as an accessory, a generic clip/bolt on attachment for the rail.

    Attachments available:
    - General Purpose Rail Adapter


    - Mag-Mount Magnetic Base (attaches to the GP Rail Adapter)


    Attachments mentioned to date:*
    - Light stand
    - Pen holder “pen by Rothrandir”
    - Bottle opener
    - Knob guard
    - Pocket clip
    *Note: Attachments are not yet available
    7) Lanyard hole
    The concept is for this lanyard to aid in handling the light when it is in your hand. While holding the light and the strap at the same time you reduce the likelihood of dropping it. If you carry the light in a pocket the lanyard will last for at least a year then it may need to be replaced. If it does not look frayed, it is still very strong. When it starts to fray, replace it.

    To put the lanyard on the SPY, you need 18” (40cm) dental floss. Put the floss through the hole in the light and then through the loop on the lanyard and then back through the hole in the light. Grab both ends of the floss in one hand and the big end of the lanyard in the other hand. Pull tight so that the lanyard loop pulls into a tight point. With the lanyard loop like this it will slide through the hole in the light with almost no effort. Make sure the lanyard loop is aligned properly to fit through the rectangular hole in the light; it only goes in one way. If you get it right it will not hurt the small loop end on the lanyard at all. To finish, thread the big end of the lanyard through the small end.

    The supplied lanyard was designed to be minimalistic in your hand and your pocket. Besides the stock lanyard that is included with the SPY 007, there are many other options available, including buying pre-made lanyards from online stores or CandlePowerForums builders, or making your own.

    If you want to tether the light around your neck, you are going to have to use a split ring. My recommendation is to use a small split ring and then put the para-cord right through the split ring.


    8) Holsters
    If you are going to use a holster make sure it is fixed to your belt in a way that it can not come off. Tether the light to your belt if need be.

    The following are some options for holsters:
    -RipOff's Holsters : www.ripoffs.com - The CO-192 or BL-192 for Belt loop is a perfect fit.
    -Art of the Hide Holsters : www.artofthehide.com/Holester.html
    9) Run time chart
    CandlePowerForums member chevrofreak’s runtime plots for the SPY 005 (Luxeon III LED). It should be close to what the 007 would give for runtimes.




    10) Easter Eggs
    Execute a power-up-1 and then select level:
    Lvl 1: SOS (too fast for Coast Guard code)
    Lvl 2: Slow Blink
    Lvl 3: Slow Pulse
    Lvl 4: Locks Hz from set from lvl5 or lvl6
    Lvl 5: Decreases Hz
    Lvl 6: Increases Hz
    11) Battery Spring, O-Rings, and Tritium Markers
    Battery Spring
    To replace the battery spring if it falls out, put the bottom half (end closest to the release pin opening) in first by twisting the spring in a counter-clockwise direction.



    O-rings
    Knob o-rings: The o-rings are very easy to take off with a wooden toothpick, just dig right under the o-ring and pry it up so you can roll it off. Putting them on is easy with the following trick. Wrap several inches of thread or dental floss around the outer groove to fill it up. Then put the first o-ring right on top of it. It will then be easy for the o-ring to be pushed/rolled over to the inner groove because it can’t fall deep into the first groove. Take the thread off and put the next o-ring in the outer groove.

    O-ring sizes:
    Knob - Size 011, 5/16” ID and 1/16” diameter
    Tailcap - Size 020, 1” English Size

    Tritium
    There are two slots where tritium markers can be epoxied in the 007. The size of the markers should be 5mm x 1.5mm. Use a strong epoxy to glue the vials in - the most-used is Norland Optical Adhesive No.61, available from Edmund Optics, and occasionally available in smaller portions on CandlePowerForums. It’s totally clear, very durable, and extremely strong. Another method used is nail polish - nail polish remover a.k.a. pure acetone will dissolve the nail polish and it will wipe right out, if there is anything left. Or, simply use superglue. Whatever the case, be cautious with tritium and take any measure you can in making it securely adhered to the SPY 007.
    12) Technical Specifications
    Material: 6Al-4V Titanium
    Weight: 150g w/ batteries
    Dimensions: Approx. 3” by 1.5” by 0.9”
    Batteries: Primary (3v) CR123A Lithiums, Lithium-Ion (3.0-4.2v) RCR123
    LED: Seoul P4 -or- Cree XR-E (depending on which model SPY 007 you own)
    Reflector: Seoul P4 - modified McR-18; Cree XR-E - McR-17 XR
    Case: water resistant only, do not submerge
    13) Problems
    First and foremost, if your light acts up you need to replace the batteries with two brand new primary lithium batteries - preferably Surefire. Secondly, execute the CAL sequence (see power-up-3 in the programming section). Even if you did not think you changed the power levels (it can happen by accident). Thirdly, make sure there is no moisture inside the light. To do this open the light and set it in a warm place for 12 hours. A good place is on top of your computer monitor. If these steps do not remedy the problem please contact Cool Fall Inc.
    14) Warranty
    The 007 will have a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser of the light. There are a few exceptions due to abuse and leaking batteries. My intention is for the purchaser to enjoy the 007 and appreciate what went into its creation. If you like it, don’t hesitate to EDC it, as the SPY is engineered to last.
    Also, as was with the 005 the 007 is intrinsically designed to live through current LED technology and be upgradeable to newer emitters (The Sandwich Shoppe currently offers an upgrade service for the 005). Cool Fall does not offer upgrade services but a few of the CPF modders do. Please be advised that modding the light voids its warranty.

  27. #87
    **Do Not Feed The Vegan**
    jch79's Avatar
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Quote Originally Posted by Data View Post
    This is just a copy of the manual saved here. I will delete it later when the updated manual is finished in post #2 above.
    Dave,
    I compared the two (your post above and post #2), and they're identical. What's been updated/changed?
    Just so I can keep the PDF up-to-date, let me know!
    Thanks,
    John

  28. #88

    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    John,

    I am in the process of changing it now. I will take a first stab at it and post it in post #2 in the next few minutes. Please take a look at it and post any changes corrections and additions. This is going to be for the 007's only. The Tri-V manual will be tackled later.

    That would be so great if you would make another PDF when it is done.

    Cheers
    Dave

  29. #89
    **Do Not Feed The Vegan**
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    Cool dude!

    Mebbe post or email when you're done and I'll copy & paste the info into the InDesign doc for the PDF, which has automatic styles and formatting set up, so it's pretty easy to copy & paste the entire thing.

    john

  30. #90
    *Flashaholic* PoliceScannerMan's Avatar
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    Default Re: SPY 007 Instruction Manual - a joint CPF effort

    OK guys, Ive put in a solid 90 minutes reading, and trying to raise level 6 on my XPG, how the heck do you do it?
    I may not be that bright, but my lights are!
    "I hate when I buy crap, so I try very hard not to sell it."
    -Gene Malkoff

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