JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more!

[guiri]

See? All it takes is one word sometimes

..and sometimes, NO words are needed, hehehe

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9KPR_YpuN0

Thanks

[b@d dog]

When using the Olight M20 lens filters I've found using Plumber's Putty Roll (from Ace Hardware) provides a snug fit so as not to lose the filter. I take about a three inch strip off the roll then cut it length wise, wrap the first strip on about 1/4" back from bezel stretching the material (don't worry this stuff stretches) all the way around; overlay the second strip over the first strip and cover the outside of the bezel the same way. This doesn't harm the anodizing whatsoever and can be removed at any time.

[dubliftment]

Hi folks,

I just recieved my second Jet-III M Q3 after I had sold the first (this time in green). Of course the driver has not altered - it is still the BVC with the ultra-low low (3mA on the tailcap - what a runtime on this!) Only the timing is different: my last light switched to the flashing menu even when switching it on 8 or 10 seconds after setting the brightness in the second mode. This light I've got now memorizes after 3 seconds and that's it.

some changes to previous editions:

First: the reflector is somehow different to the "normal" SMO version. It is probably the "hybrid" SMOP (although there is no OP stucture visible) and has kind of a transition in the lower part, near the pill - just like the Nitecore SR3.



At first the beam was quite a mess, awkwardly ringy and a considerable doughnut hole in the center, but after placing a 0,3mm spacer under the reflector the beam is awesome.



With that adaptation made, I'm glad I didn't choose the OP.

Second, the threads have changed. They are not the usual square threads any more and they are not running as smoothly as before. anyone know why?

Third, it has a coated lense with reduced reflection now. It shines a bit bluish, but nicely.

Fourth, the clip is better than before.



Fifth, the green anodizing is far better than of previous models. I really like this one, altogether it seems like a Jet-III M 2.0 and it makes an outstanding light.

salut!

[NewTech]

some changes to previous editions:

First: the reflector is somehow different to the "normal" SMO version. It is probably the "hybrid" SMOP (although there is no OP stucture visible) and has kind of a transition in the lower part, near the pill - just like the Nitecore SR3.

My Jetbeam III M R2has different reflector (SMO).

At first the beam was quite a mess, awkwardly ringy and a considerable doughnut hole in the center, but after placing a 0,3mm spacer under the reflector the beam is awesome.

My beam about the same as this beam.

With that adaptation made, I'm glad I didn't choose the OP.

Second, the threads have changed. They are not the usual square threads any more and they are not running as smoothly as before. anyone know why?.

My Jetbeam III M R2 has the same threads (running not smoothly).

Third, it has a coated lense with reduced reflection now. It shines a bit bluish, but nicely.

Fourth, the clip is better than before.

My Jetbeam III M R2 have the same clip.

Fifth, the green anodizing is far better than of previous models. I really like this one, altogether it seems like a Jet-III M 2.0 and it makes an outstanding light.

salut![/QUOTE].

I bought my Jetbeam III M R2 on October, 2009.

[berry580]

Second, the threads have changed. They are not the usual square threads any more and they are not running as smoothly as before. anyone know why?.

Yeah yeah, my TC-R3's threads are not square cut unlike my Jet-III PRO Ti and Jet-Ti M. I was a bit disappointed?

looks like they're planning to make this change to all their future lights. That's a downgrade in my opinion.

does anyone know otherwise?

[EngrPaul]

On the older models with the square threads, the head is wobbly. They had put a super-tight o-ring in to overcome this. But this made the head too hard to turn to change modes.

If you have both models, try removing the o-ring. See how the wobbly head is much better with the new threads. You can use a thinner o-ring for smoother operation with the new ones. I think it is an improvement for sure.

[KD5XB]

I just unscrewed the head from my older Jet 3 Military, and while it's true that the head will wobble around a bit while unscrewed, I think I prefer the earlier setup anyway.

[berry580]

i think i prefer square cut as well even if it means it'll wobble a bit while being unscrewed.

as with tight o-ring causing difficulty to turn bezel, I do not agree. For all Jet-III M's, at the base of the bezel there's a 'floating' copper contact plate to allow the light to know when to go on to max mode. Since the copper plate is floating, i think it's the friction between the contact plate and the light's body that's causing the difficulty in turning the bezel and IMO it has little to do with the o-ring especially when well lubed.

[b@d dog]

With the Low Profile Crenulated Bezel is there supposed to be a gap between the lens and bezel of about 1/16 of an inch? The standard bezel has a good tight fit, metal to metal.

Has anyone else experienced this?

[kar120c]

Me too I wish to know if low profile crenulated bezel has a gap between the head of the flaslight. But the upgraded bezels are produced by Jetbeam or are aftermarkets upgrades?

[JML]

... i think it's the friction between the contact plate and the light's body that's causing the difficulty in turning the bezel and IMO it has little to do with the o-ring especially when well lubed.

Well, I'm not sure about that. Changing the lube makes a big difference with my JetBeams (square threaded). Nyogel makes them hard to turn; changing to SuperLube makes a big difference with the ease of turning the heads.

[JKPinPDX]

Just got this from BOG today.



R2 bin with low profile crenulated bezel.

Did you order this bezel as an "additional accessory" or did it come as "Standard" equipment. I thought the JB III M came with a flat bezel as standard.

I ordered this exact light from Bugoutgrear and I should be getting mine next week!

[Brigadier]

Just ordered an OD green warm tint version and a crenulated bezel today from BOG.

Given the simple UI, can the light be used for signalling, like Morse Code?

[naked2]

Yes (forward clicky)

[KD5XB]

I've tried a couple of times but I guess I have a spastic thumb or something. It's too easy for me to push the button in too far and it stays on. Instead of sending "didahdit didahdit" I usually get something like "didahdit didaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah oh spit this darn thing stuck on".

[naked2]

It's a little tough at first with the button being recessed into the SS crenulated ring, but with a little practice, it becomes easy.

[jhc37013]

I'm thinking of getting one I seen specs that say 225 lumen if you use cr123 and 240 lumen if you use RCR123 is this how it works?

From flashlightngear website:

Output & Runtime:

• 18650 Rechargeable Lithium Battery
• Max Output:
  
  • CR123*2: 225Lumen, 2Hours
  • RCR123*2: 240Lumen, 1Hours
  • 18650*1: 225Lumen, 3Hours
• Min Output: 2 Lumen, lasting for 200 hours

[bondr006]

@ jhc37013 per JET-lll M Q5 run times. The R2 is 250 lumens with same run times.

JETBeam Website:

Max Output:
CR123*2: 225Lumen, 2Hours
RCR123*2: 225Lumen, 1Hours
18650*1: 225Lumen, 3Hours
Min Output: 2 Lumen, lasting for 200 hours


FlashlightJunction Website:

Max Output:
CR123*2: 250Lumen, 2Hours
RCR123*2: 250Lumen, 1Hours
18650*1: 250Lumen, 3Hours
Min Output: 2 Lumen, lasting for 200 hours


BOG Website:

MAX output
CR123*2: 225Lumen, 2Hours
RCR123*2: 225Lumen, 1Hours
18650*1: 225Lumen, 3Hours
Min Output: 2 Lumen, lasting for 200 hours

[jhc37013]

Now a 250 spec oh boy just when I thought I had it figured out.

Edit: Well 225, 240, 250 no matter I couldn't hold back and ordered one I'm looking forward to comparing throw, spill brightness and tint with other similar sized lights. I had to order the olive drab, I love Jetbeam's army green finish.

[bondr006]

I love Jetbeam's army green finish.

Well here's some JB Olive Drab Green pron for ya...

[Brigadier]

It will go lower than 2 lumens. You can set the user defined setting to what I guesstimate is about .1 lumens - it is much lower than my NovaTac 85T's .3 lumen low.


Here is mine with my RRT-1.

[selfbuilt]

It will go lower than 2 lumens. You can set the user defined setting to what I guesstimate is about .1 lumens - it is much lower than my NovaTac 85T's .3 lumen low.

Yes, the min mode on the Jet-III M is quite low - on my early review sample, it is a little lower than my Novatac 120P's min output.

[naked2]

I had to order the olive drab, I love Jetbeam's army green finish.

Isn't that the only color it's made in?

[pobox1475]

I ordered my Raptor 2 in a warm tint green body and OP reflector. Got a black warm SMO. They agreed to send me the OP and I just kept the black. Was afraid if swapped might have an possible issue. The black works great.

[Monocrom]

Isn't that the only color it's made in?

Nope! Check out the pics on page 1.

[naked2]

I only see a Jet-III M in green; what are you seeing?

[jhc37013]

You can choose.

http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/jemi.html

[Monocrom]

I only see a Jet-III M in green; what are you seeing?

It's grey.

[bondr006]

LightJunction.com also has them in both green and grey. jhc37013 was saying he "had" to order the olive drab....not because it was the only choice available to him, but because he strongly preferred that color.

[naked2]

You can choose.

I stand corrected; I didn't realize that the newer R2 edition had color choices.

But I beileve (although I could be wrong; again!) that the original Jet-III M, the one reviewed here in the OP by selfbuilt, only came in one color- natural. Which BTW on my sample, looks green, similar to some of my older SureFires. That's what I thought you were referring to (I like the natural as much as you like the green!).

At any rate, JetBeam's anodizing/finish is spectacular in any color!

It's grey.

Which picture? (numbered from top to bottom, #1 being the first picture in the OP)

jhc37013 was saying he "had" to order the olive drab....not because it was the only choice available to him, but because he strongly preferred that color.

That was never in question (by me).