Divelight with P7

Fluor

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This is my first build and i got some questions to be solved before i start:

This will be a divelight so the cooling will be easy to solve. Was thinking of 3-4 P7 LED's in a AL-10 housing. Link:
http://www.saekodive.com.tw/showpd.php?pdid=6011&catno=8&catname=Lights&subcatno=0&subcatname=

My questions starts with the heatsink and reflector:
-What type of glue do i use to get the P7 on the heatsink?
-How do i isolate the teminals of the P7 from the heatsink?
-What type of reflector is easiest to use. The inside diameter if my light is 53mm. I can modify a reflector to fit.
-How do i connect the reflector to the P7 without getting in contact with the terminals.

The rest i already got figured out(battery and driver).
 

Packhorse

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Most of these questions can easily be answered by reading a few threads.


There are many types of thermal glue you could use . I use the DX stuff.

You isolate the terminals from the heat sink by bending them up so they dont touch it.

Forget about what reflector will be easiest to use. Think about what reflector will give you the beam angle you want.. Personally I like a very tight beam for dive use and U think you will find that hard to do with a small P7 reflector.
 

Fluor

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Packhorse,

Thanks for the tip about glue and isolation of terminals. The last thing i don't see clearly before i start is how to attach the reflector to the leds. Are they glued on? Example picture:
 

Packhorse

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Yeah. I just use a little thermal glue. It seems to hold well enough and is easy to remove.

You may want to check out a few of the threads I started about some of my dive lights.
 

Fluor

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My first build is done!

Easy build. Result is as expected but haven't tryed it diving yet....






Info:
  • P7 Led with built in driver and reflector from DE
  • 2 x 18650 2500mA/h
  • Burntime 70min
  • Seakodive AL-10 housing
  • Toltal build time 3h
Pictures:




 

Fluor

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Plenty of room. Battery space is length 145mm and with 52mm. Fit 8 x 18650. Maybe even 10?
 

Fluor

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I know i will do better!

Alredy made the heatsink for that mod and got a extra housing. The reflector is what is holding me back.

This one on the market? See that is made of ABS. Can that be a problem with heat?
 

darkman0101

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Nice one.
I like the idea of having heaps of room for more 18650s if you want to up the runtime.
If I could find one of those housings I would give it a go. Trying to use a maglite as a host is difficult (not impossible, just difficult).
 

Packhorse

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Nice one.
I like the idea of having heaps of room for more 18650s if you want to up the runtime.
If I could find one of those housings I would give it a go. Trying to use a maglite as a host is difficult (not impossible, just difficult).
To be honest I think you would be better off using a can for your batteries. This will allow a much smaller light head which you could then wear using a goodman handle and this frees up your hand. The cannisters no not get in the way, nor are they heavy enough to effect your trim. Not tro mention if you use a long hose they are great for routing the hose under.
 

Fluor

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I see your point! But it's not that big and heavy. Will be the same size and wegth as the original one and i don't mind that.

Will give it a go and see how it works. Regarding trim. Just put som weight bands on my legs 2kg or so.....
 

Packhorse

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My comments were more aimed at Darkman who is building a Mag based light.

I think it may be a bit pointless adding a can to yours, but I do think can lights are preferable to large hand held units.
 

Fluor

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Ok,

Now i'm adding in two extra LED's and a bunch of 18650. Before i start i need some feedback for selecting the best driver and batterypack for this baby....

LED's:
3 x P7 C-bin. One driven by the driver and two in series with the circut.

Driver:
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1770
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=6282
First one is 2,7-6V single mode driver. Second one is 5,5-15V tree step driver. How do you operate the steps on the second one? By turning on and off? And is it stable? Wat is the safer choice?

Battery pack:
8 x 18650 2500mA/h
4 in series and 4+4 in paralell giving total 13,6V(4*3,4V) and 0,5A/h.

What do the experts think about this setup?:thinking:
 

Packhorse

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The first drive will work in the way you intend IF you closely match the battery voltage to the total VF of the 3 LED's. EG 3.7v X 3= 11.1v. Aim for no more than 2 volt max over this. (which will be hard). # Li Ion cells may be your best bet here but the LED's will dim a little towards the end of their charge. This driver current in= current out

The second driver will not work the way you intend. Current in < current out. So the second 2 LEDs will be dimmer.
I know for a fact you can drive P7's off this driver, you may be able to drive 3. But not as you suggest.

You cycle the power levels by turning the power off for less than 2 seconds.

Either way I would go for 3,6 or 9 Li Ion cells giving 11.1 volt. If you dont care about dimming then go with the first driver.
 

Fluor

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So....

I can let this driver handle 3 x P7 LED's with a input voltage of 11,1V? Anyone tryed this setup before?

9 x Li-Ion is going to be a tight fit
 

Fluor

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Just got some LEDIL Boom-S reflectors for this build.
http://www.ledil.com/datasheets/DataSheet_Boom_p7.pdf

After testing one on my P7 led's with a Boom-s im not to impressed about the hotspot. The datasheet is saying about +/-9 degree. I don't have too much experience with reflectors but they don't come close to the tow generated by the DX one posted here earlier in the tread.

Anyone else tested thease reflectors before?

I will see if i can post a picture later to compare them.
 
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