Problems with GDuP

Hello Wayne and Cindy.
I recently purchased 2 GDuP Boost/Buck Converter and build 2 LE.
First one have no problem, working flawlessly. :thumbsup:
Second would run for few minutes, (until get warm) then shut down.
After switching it on or off would just flicker. And after get cool, turn on normal again.
Dos it look like board may be defective, or I destroyed it when build LE?:sigh:
Thanks

Russki said:

Hello Wayne and Cindy.
I recently purchased 2 GDuP Boost/Buck Converter and build 2 LE.
First one have no problem, working flawlessly. :thumbsup:
Second would run for few minutes, (until get warm) then shut down.
After switching it on or off would just flicker. And after get cool, turn on normal again.
Dos it look like board may be defective, or I destroyed it when build LE?:sigh:
Thanks

Click to expand...

I've built quote a few LEs now with the GDuP and the failure rate is extremely low. Most of the builds that fail for me can be attributed to a failure that was caused during the assembly phase. Components on the converter board can shift or fall off depending on how the converter was installed.

I recommend soldering in the anode board by itself and then insert the connector and converter board. Once the converter board is slipped onto the loose connectors I top solder in place the converter board and then solder the bottomside of the connector pins making sure the converter doesn't slip downwards when flipping it over.

When I assembled the converter to the anode board to make a unified assembly before I reflowed the assembly into the can I found it to be very difficult and it was too easy to get the converter board hot enough that components would fall off rendering the LE bunk.

Glad you got one to work. The description you describe I've not encounted in any of my builds. Usually, when I get one that doesn't work it doesn't work. Dead. Nada.

Is it possible the MCPCB is floating or not making good thermal connection?

Wayne

Hello Wayne.
I am not doing reflow soldering on my LE.
I always solder small wire to XR-can and connect it to ground on board.
This is safer way, in my opinion.
Board fully potted in AA, so it should make good thermal connection.
I tested board before putting it in XR-can, but run it maybe for 30 sec, it seams working fine.
It is not first time I build LE, well, there is always a chance something goes wrong.:shrug::mecry:
Thanks.

TKC said:

I am the second owner of a GDuP on a McGizmo. The head gets REALLY hot after 5 mins. Is this normal? TIA!

Click to expand...

If the board is not potted there is nowhere for the heat to go. So, yes it can get quite hot if it is not potted. If it is potted then it depends if the LED is also mounted to the LE if there is a LE.

If the brightness remains the same then it is more than likely regulating correctly and the heat generated by the converter board would be normal.

Wayne