I was expecting the driver on this module to be somewhat crappy due to it's wide voltage range and some reports, but at this point it the updated one seems to be working decently.
I may not swap this one out...haven't decided yet.
The 3-mode regulated drivers that I have been using cost just under $11 each. They are pricey but worth it for what I use them for IMO.
Thanks for all the info on the DX XP-G single-mode drop-in, folks. Any chance of anybody being able to post beamshots comparing it to the M60?
In the past we have had a light which flickered, in the present we have a light which flames, and in the future there will be a light which shines over all the land and sea.
- Winston Churchill
How would the xp-g be vs a r2 in throw?
I showed one of my dads buddys my solarforce when I was at his cabin. And now he went out and bought a ultrafire off of ebay with an r2 and crappy 18650 battery. and now he thinks he is the man.
So I pretty much need something that will out do him. I have my mc-e that will out flood him but I am kinda looking for something with more throw.
Got the one-mode xp-g r5 dropin from DX a few days ago. I am really impressed by the brightness! It's definitely brighter than a solarforce r2 dropin. I cannot make out any difference in brightness between one 18650 or two 16340. But in respect to "throw" you will be disappointed, its beam is more on the floody side.
If anybody can explain me how to measure the current-draw of this dropin, i will post the values here. I just used my dmm to check voltages, but never measured current before. Am I right that I have to unscrew the tailcap and connect one contact of the dmm to the inserted battery(-) and the other one to the thread of the flashlight (provided I changed my dmm's settings from voltage to current)?
HKJ wrote a very good post on measurements with a DMM.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=236906
Looks like people are only getting the one mode xp-g from dx. Im might get the 5 mode one. Anybody here purchased the 5 mode and recived it yet? I'd like to know if it has memory and any other impressions that you have of it.
They are normally available at Shiningbeam.com. They are currently out of stock.
Bryan should have some more when the next batch of L-Mini II lights come in later this month.
According to my past purchases, the sku is 1219.
Last edited by Black Rose; 03-01-2010 at 06:29 PM.
Excellent, thanks!
Anybody know where I can get a Anto_XP-G_R4 P60 drop in? I searched but no luck?
I am building a light with a solarforce l2 body and intend to use the highest quality 18650 batteries. Which drop in should I buy that will give me the longest runtime, 3 mode, decent flood and no explode or module burnout.
If your going dedicated 18650 , then there is no reason not to buy a 4.2v dedicated drop in ..
Solarforce makes a nice 3 mode low voltage drop in , I own 3 of them and they have given no problems what so ever .
As for the,
, well , electronics being what they are , but then Ive never had a problem with a Solarforce drop in .
I got tired of waiting for an empty smooth XP-G drop-in. I bought one for $20 from ebay. Expensive but I hope it'll be good by changing a driver.
Yeah I know I could have bought Skyray S-R5 with R4 emitter from DX but I didn't want another host lying around. I have enough P60 hosts.
Grrrr. My first XP-G "R5" single mode drop-in from DX died today.
I had an issue with it last week where it wouldn't turn on.
I gave the light a tap with my palm and it worked again. I assumed it was something loose in the driver, but it appears that was not the case...
Since the voltage range is supposed to go to 18v, I decided to try a pair of primary CR123A cells. It turned an angry blue and the light diminished rapidly.
I took the reflector off and peeled back the paper (yes, paper) isolation disc to get access to the + and - on the MCPCB so that I could attempt to direct drive the LED to see if it was an LED or driver issue.
The LED separated from the MCPCB![]()
There was hardly any solder connecting the LED to the MCPCB. This was most likely the cause of my previous intermittent problem.
I tried to apply some heat to the MCPCB to see if the LED would connect to it, but no such luck. It needs to be reflow soldered.
I bought the 5 mode DX XP-G drop-in and put the DX 7612 circuit board in it. I usually just keep it in the Low-Medium-High group. It works very well.
Black Rose, if the LED turned blue, does that mean the LED is dead? If you think it still works, I noted a reflow soldering video in this post. Lacking a professional heat gun, I wondered if the same thing could be accomplished with a cheap heat gun, metal plate and an infrared thermometer to monitor the temperature. The datasheet for the XP-G gives the reflow soldering characteristics for the LED.
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXP-G.pdf
I believe when an LED turns blue, it's dead.
I figure what happened was that the LED became partly separated from the MCPCB and when current was applied, it heated up but couldn't dissipate the heat and
I think I'll just head over to Cutter and order a replacement MCPCB with LED attached and rebuild the drop-in.
I had one turn blue , but after gluing the emitter to the pill all seems fine ...
blue = its overheating , if you dont go to far ?
I have another XP-G R5 that turns blue with a 18650 , so I run it in a 1xCR123A light , and it seems to be ok .
I use a normal frying pan on an electrical stove. I start with relatively cold heating plate and pan. Then I turn on the plate at a level where I know the solder paste will melt in about 2 min (requires a little experimenting). I put on the pan with my PCB and led. When the solder melts, I lifts the pan from the hot plate, waits a few seconds and then put the bottom of the frying pan into water to cool everything relatively fast. This is easy, and works. The only error I have done is to use too high effect on the plate and beeing to slow to remove the pan. Just take it easy, and the timing is not that critical.
If you want throw, get something with an XR-E emitter.
My single mode DX XP-G R5 started "behave itself" last night, in a matter none of the 5-6 XR-E R2:s I own have... Light level decreases and rises, no actual flickering. Runs on 9V primaries.
Last edited by LV426; 03-20-2010 at 03:43 PM. Reason: typo
WTB: Solarforce Skyline II switch
WTB: Stor-A-Cell SlimLine CR123 Yellow
Is there a decent SST-50 drop in that can run on a single IMR 18650 available from one of our American Dealers?
I'm not interested in DX nor in small scale local producers ( no PayPal and no patience to wait while they try to keep up with demand)despite the fact they may offer the very best. I'm looking for a commercial product by a manufacturer.
Basically I want to be able to use VISA, make an order, and have my pill a week later.
Any ideas?
It was answered ...
Throw = around 100 Meters ..
It can be less and it can be more .. Depends on Emitter , Power , and all the other variables ...
Throw has been talked to death on CPF , and here in the P60 section as well .
Your average P60 Q5 or better XR-E running @ 1A P60 should be good for 100 Meters .. I have one or two that will exceed that bye quite a bit , and owning a lot of P60 Hosts , I can tell you there is no hard and fast rule for throw , you get what you get . If you buy 15 P60 hosts and have a lot of Cree R2 XR-E drop ins , you may get some that are exceptional , and some that are not ..
XR-E Q5 or better is still the better choice for throw over XP-E or XP-G ..
XP-E may offer better output at lower power , XP-G will offer more output at the same power , but neither will throw better than the XR-E .
And as for how far it will throw ? No one can answer that 100% because there are to many variables involved .
I see no reason why XRE should throw better than XPE. I have put an XPE R2 4D emitter into the XPG reflector of my Dereelight Javelin. With 3 NiMh batteries it gives me 8900 lux@1m. This is as good or better than most P60 XRE modules with OP reflectors.
I'm considering getting this drop-in for my solarforce L2.
http://www.lighthound.com/Nailbender...ts_p_3486.html
Is this gona be worth the money in terms of brightness? Throw or flood won't matter to me. I'm just into brightness. Any input is welcome. Thanks.