Can I use RCR123s in my EagleTac T10C2?

Title says it all, just wondering if it's doable, and if so, which ones do you recommend? Should I go with 3V or 3.7V? Are the BatteryJunction kits any good?

Thanks!

http://www.eagletac-store.com/product_info.php?products_id=611

Specifications clearly state can use two 3.7V RCR123A.
What is confusing about that?

As far as which batteries to use, please spend some time looking at the stickies, all the information you need is already here.

Welcome to CPF

I use a pair of AW 16340s in my T10C2. Runs fine.

I use AW's RCR123a 3.7v cells in my T10C2---they work great. The T10C2 is made to take them, as well as primary CR123s.

While I know AW batteries are the ones I should get, but will 3.6V Ultrafire 16340 work well with the light? Would that .1V make a difference in output? Reason being the cost as well as the availability of those Ultrafires to me.

Thanks!

3.6V and 3.7V "labels" in this case, is merely a variation in naming and has very little to do with the behavior of the cells in question. It's just a lack of keeping up with the trends in the industry on ultrafires part. Years ago, lithium cobalt cells were charged to 4.10V, over the years, their have been improvements made that allowed these cells to be charged to 4.20V instead while still maintaining respectable cycle life. Since the charge termination went up by a tenth of a volt, so did the nominal rating of the cell. Today, cells labeled 3.6V are still going to be charged to 4.20V by any modern charger anyways. The performance differences from brand to brand are not going to be apparent by looking at what label voltage they have chosen to use.

It's a regulated flashlight so as long as your input voltage is above the minimum required to be in regulation, then it's going to be the same brightness. Which in your case, probably means anything above 4V input will work fine. So a pair of 3V cells is more than 4V, a pair of 3.7V cells is more than 4V, so there will be no difference in brightness...

Generally speaking, ultafire cells don't seem to be on par with the better names, their lower price really is one of those cases of "you get what you pay for" and unfortunately, that often means dud cells right from the package.

You mention availability of UF cells... not sure how available they are to you, but if you are still going to have to have them shipped to you, consider ordering direct from AW in his sales thread over on the CPFMP. He will ship world-wide for very reasonable rates.

Eric

Thanks for your very informative reply Eric! I've decided and spent the extra couple dollars and got quality AW cells! :thumbsup:

UHM, the only thing I think should be mentioned if it wasnt already, Stacking 2 or more RCRs can be considered risky and is by many. If the voltage isnt matched you risk bad things happening inside the light. You should consider going with the new IMR16340s which are said to be "safe" when stacked. I could be wrong here but I wanted to mention it.

litetube said:

UHM, the only thing I think should be mentioned if it wasnt already, Stacking 2 or more RCRs can be considered risky and is by many. If the voltage isnt matched you risk bad things happening inside the light. You should consider going with the new IMR16340s which are said to be "safe" when stacked. I could be wrong here but I wanted to mention it.

Click to expand...

Actually, using IMR cells in a regulated LED light is not something I recommend, because the regulation circuit can severely over-discharge the cells before any noticeable dimming occurs. There is no danger of putting RCR123s in series as long as they are the same type of RCR123s and they are protected. I'm thinking you may be confusing reports of CR123 primary cells installed together with mis-matched capacity (poor QC from the factory usually), the result in this case can be a reverse charged CR123 which can explode, protected RCR123s will not have this problem.

Eric

Mine T10c2 just died when i was using 3,7 v AW batteries in it, what did happend?

Hi Mathiashogevold,

Couple possibilities:

1. The protection circuit on one of the cells tripped. You just need to recharge the batteries and it will work fine again. (assuming your charger can re-set the PCB)

2. The flashlight has malfunctioned in some way and no longer works and it has nothing to do with which batteries were used.

Eric

mdocod said:

Hi Mathiashogevold,

Couple possibilities:

1. The protection circuit on one of the cells tripped. You just need to recharge the batteries and it will work fine again. (assuming your charger can re-set the PCB)

2. The flashlight has malfunctioned in some way and no longer works and it has nothing to do with which batteries were used.

Eric

Click to expand...

i guess it you're right on number 2, because it wouldnt run on primaries too...