If the G2 is the same as the 6P in bezel size, I was able to remove mine using my iPod Shuffle clip. Tried pliers and a screwdriver but only managed to damage the lens. If using second generation (square looking) shuffle you just squeeze to open the clip then the end sticking up is the perfect size to run the diameter of the lens.
Flashlightlens.com now offers a great little acrylic bezel ring removal tool for Surefire 6P/C2/Z2 bezels. It won't scratch the retainer ring like metal tools might, if they slip. Also, it is oriented inside and outside to fit precisely. It works great with the Solarforce L2 stainless steel bezel rings too. Just $2.50. I got a pair of them. Uses a quarter or similar sized coin in the slot for leverage.
http://www.flashlightlens.com/str/in...ref=retaintool
To remove the orginal window, simply use a Nail, and apply presure by hammering it thru the window. This will crack the window and give you space so you can unscrew the retaining ring.
you wont need the orginal window anyways since ur replacing it right?![]()
Thanks Mikey V...very helpfull!
Superior gear will never make up for lack of training or attitude
Surefire M2 w/ Malkoff M60 & Z48, 8AX Commander, Surefire M952XM07 Millennium Universal WeaponLight System w/ M60, X200B, G2 LED w/ M60, G2 w/ M60W, SL-60, EagleTac T10LC2, Fenix TK10, Fenix T1, Microstream
This is the best bezel removal tool I have, far better than the plastic JetBeam tool.
I is just a square of stainless steel cut to fit the nicks in the SolarForce L2 bezel, it came supplied with the bezel shown above, purchased frome member Roadie.
Never slips and you can use a lot more force than you can using the JetBeam tool.
It may not fit a Surefire light but the idea is the easy to duplicate.
Norm
Last edited by Norm; 06-16-2009 at 09:48 PM.
It's great to have the right tool for the job. I like the Flashlightlens one. Now I'd like a ready made version for the M2 and M3 heads. Any suggestions of stockists ?
Where do I get replacement glass for 6P bezel, that's as tough as the original?
I don't want the UCL glass as I understand it's more fragile, even if it lets more light through.
Perhaps 6P bezel is not as tough, as I broke 2 in a row. One from a minor fall and the other one I am not even aware of being dropped, just discovered it broken one day.
Borofloat is another option offered by flashlightlens.
It's apparently similar to the Pyrex lens that comes with the 6P.
The borafloat isn't offered in the 28.6 size for the 6p. I find it unfortunate as I would love to have all my surefires using it. I've had bad luck with ULCs in my G2. On the other hand I've found the hardcoat lens to be a great option in my G2 heads. However it seems that it's only offered in the G2 size (28.8). I think your best bet would be an original Z17 replacement lens kit.
I bought a couple of those tools in the picture above a long time ago. It is a pretty decent tool and seems to be built to proper specs. Surefire makes one now as well. I think they package them with their new fireman/emergency lights, I don't know if they sell the tool alone, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to give them a call and check.
It is very hard to get that bezel ring off the first time, unless you put the head in some boiling water for a short time, that seems to loosen things up. Just be careful if you do that, because if you drop the bezel head in the boiling water out of the microwave it can flash steam causing a nasty burn on your hands, I always wear eye protection when I do it.
ampdude
MD3 | M6CB | Gladius/SSCP4 | A2-HA-WH | A2-HA-YG | A2-BK-WH | Z3/KT2 | M2 | C2 | 6Z | 6P | U2A | K2MS | E2e/KL4 BK | E2DL | E2D | E2L | L2 | Milky ML1/SSCP4 USWOH McR18j | L1-BK-RD | L1-HA-WH | L1-HA-WH Cree | L1-HA-RD | 3P | E1B | E1L | E1E-HA-BK | E1W | 618FA | G2
Just now, while digging thru my toolbox, I realized that I have a plethora of Z44 bezel ring tools. If you've ever replaced the "seats and springs" in a Delta faucet then you probably have one of these tools lying around, as Delta includes it with all of their faucet rebuild kits. It's just about a quarter of a millimeter too wide diameter-wise, but you could file that off of the outside edge of one of the nubs in a matter of seconds. It would then be a perfect fit, as the thickness of the metal on the nubs is almost identical to that of the channels on the bezel ring.
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Oveready sells a tool for just this purpose.
Awesome idea. I think I have one of those.
I bought the delrin one from OR. Worked great on my G2z and L2's, but my C2 was so tight, even boiling twice, that I rounded most of the edges before the bezel came off. I'll try the pluming piece next time.
Sorry to perpetuate the thread necromancy - but I don't want to lose this one.
Man, you guys and your tools! heh. But they are some nice tools
I do it the old fashion way, and it has yet to fail me with multiple lights, even ones that the bezel really stuck on there or thread-locked.
Just put the bezel on the sole of your shoe (running shoes work really well) and just twist. Depending on how tight the bezel is on there, might have to work it back & forth each way a little bit to break it loose. If it's really on there or thread-locked, dip the bezel & the top of the head into some hot/boiling water anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute, and then work the bezel again. If the head is all metal, you can use a heat gun lightly over it to loosen any thread-locker on it. Pretty simple to do, just need to be cautious of using a heat gun on anything.
This always works for me because some lights have different size bezels (like my L2P and my TM11.... way different in size), so the shoe method worked perfectly on both.
MD3 | M6CB | Gladius/SSCP4 | A2-HA-WH | A2-HA-YG | A2-BK-WH | Z3/KT2 | M2 | C2 | 6Z | 6P | U2A | K2MS | E2e/KL4 BK | E2DL | E2D | E2L | L2 | Milky ML1/SSCP4 USWOH McR18j | L1-BK-RD | L1-HA-WH | L1-HA-WH Cree | L1-HA-RD | 3P | E1B | E1L | E1E-HA-BK | E1W | 618FA | G2
I've collected a bunch of bezel tools. Some of the early ones broke. I just bought a CNC machined aluminum tool on ebay that is very high quality and works like a charm! It only fits the 6P/9/P bezel. Others from the CPFMP fit other surefires like the M3, M4, and M6. Flashlight lens.com has always supplied me with high quality lenses.
Could you post that ebay link for the cnc 6P aluminum tool or it's seller as I'm looking to get one.
Found the 6P lens removal tool that I was looking for, Xeno W01 v2.
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I use a watch case-back opener. They range in price anywhere from $10 - $200. Mine was in the $30 ballpark.
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You don't need any special tool at all. Get a pair of needlenose pliers, carefully position the tips of the plier jaws into the indentations on the bezel, and wedge your hand between the plier handles to force them to stay open. With your hand positioned like this, you can easily apply all the force you need without any risk of slipping and damaging the bezel -- just push your hand harder in between the jaws to increase the clamping force, and twist the pliers to loosen the bezel.
Here's what i use, very cheap and doubles up as an excellent diffuser. I've got the oveready delrin tool next to it and it's by far worse, as you need a vice to operate it. It's made from POM, a tough plastic and gets rid of bezel rings very easily. I've tried the pliers approach but some bezel rings are glued in tight so it's not feasible.
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Never seen a bezel ring glued-in before. In fact, most of them I've been able to remove by hand. Maybe I'm just lucky.
Maybe you are just lucky... Some of my bezel rings required so much torque to open that i had to boil them in order to remove them, even with that tool.
MD3 | M6CB | Gladius/SSCP4 | A2-HA-WH | A2-HA-YG | A2-BK-WH | Z3/KT2 | M2 | C2 | 6Z | 6P | U2A | K2MS | E2e/KL4 BK | E2DL | E2D | E2L | L2 | Milky ML1/SSCP4 USWOH McR18j | L1-BK-RD | L1-HA-WH | L1-HA-WH Cree | L1-HA-RD | 3P | E1B | E1L | E1E-HA-BK | E1W | 618FA | G2