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Sold/Expired Neutral Tint Modding Service

Tekno_Cowboy

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
1,680
Location
Minnesota
Flashlight Modding Service

Not Accepting Mods Until I Can Move My Workbench To My Current Location

I offer the following Mods:

  • High-CRI SSC P4 Emitter Swaps
  • XP-G emitter swaps on some lights
  • Non-High-CRI Emitter Swaps (Require ordering the LED's, or using parts supplied by the owner of the light)
  • Mag LED Conversions (no cutdowns or rethreads until I get my new lathe)
  • Surefire Boring
  • Assorted custom parts, including but not limited to: heatsinks, spacers and 18650 adapters. I can make most simple parts as long as you give me dimensions. (in inches please)
All Modding services include:
  • Clean and lube of light with Krytox GPL203
  • Shipping to USA via Priority Mail. International shipping is extra as indicated below
High-CRI Mod Benefits:

  • Better color rendition, especially reds and browns. Cool White LED's have a CRI of about 70-75 typically, and the SSC LED's have a CRI of 93. The higher CRI enables you to differentiate colors more accurately, especially at low output and outdoors. It also makes the beam appear brighter in comparison to the same output with a cool white tint.
  • The light output is noticeably warmer at about 4000K
Drawbacks:

  • The Neutral tints are less efficient than the cool tints. This causes the output to be lower than with the cool white tints. With the Cree, the difference is negligible, but with the SSC, the output drops about 20-30%. This is IMHO a worthwhile tradeoff.
  • Modding a light may void the warranty.
  • There is a risk of damage associated with any mod. While it is unlikely, the risk is there. I will do my best to repair any part that is damaged in a way that prevents the light from operating as intended, and assist in replacing any part damaged beyond my capability to repair.
Surefire Boring:

  • This enables the use of 18mm Li-ion cells in a Surefire light. The downside of this is that the sidewalls are made thinner. This is not typically an issue, but there is a slight risk of the wall getting too thin at the deeper grooves (about .015-.020" thick). I have not had any problems with my 6P or 9P, but the risk is there. If a light breaks because of this mod, I will refund the charge for modding, including shipping, but will not replace the light in most cases.
Prices: Do NOT send payment as "payment owed"/no fee when using paypal! If payment is sent this way, there's a good chance I won't notice I haven't shipped your order until you send me a PM to remind me.
  • Cree UV Mod: $50 (Takes an extra 2 weeks)
  • Cree XP-G Mod $75
  • SSC Mod: $45
  • Surefire Boring: $30
  • Maglite 1-level LED Conversion: $60 CONUS, ask for international rates.
  • International Shipping: Add $7
  • Canada/Mexico Shipping: Add $5
Please fill out the following and send it in the package with your light:
Code:
CPF Username:

Real Name:

Return Address:

Paypal Email(optional):

Flashlight Model:

Flashlight Serial Number (if possible):

Mod Desired:

Lights I Have Already modded:

  • 4Sevens Quark AA/Ti AA
  • Arc 6 Warm XP-G (replacement reflector may be needed)
  • Blackhawk Gladius
  • Fenix L0D XP-G
  • Fenix LD01 XP-G
  • HDS Basic 42 XP-G
  • iTP C9 Q2-5B XP-E
  • Jetbeam Jet-I Pro I.B.S.
  • Jetbeam Jet-III
  • KaiDomain Mag Cree Q5 Drop-in to SSC P4
  • Longbow Micra High-CRI P4
  • McGizmo McLuxIII-PD High-CRI SSC P4
  • Nitecore D10
  • Nitecore D10 UV
  • Nitecore D10 UV + Mad Max Plus Driver
  • Nitecore D20
  • Nitecore D20 SSC P4 High CRI
  • Nitecore D20 Aspheric
  • Nitecore EX10
  • Nitecore Extreme
  • Nitecore Extreme High-CRI GDuP
  • Novatac 120P
  • Pelican M1
  • Ra Clicky
  • Ra Clicky R2-WH XP-E
  • Ra Clicky Warm XP-G
  • Ra Twisty
  • 007 Spy Neutral XP-G
  • Surefire 6P/9P bore for 18650
Links: Some informative links :D

Q3-5A vs R2-WC

Q3-5A vs GDP Neutral

mudman cj's CRI beamshots


Very Informative CRI thread started by McGizmo

SSC in a D10 beamshot. The beam gets a bit narrower, but this makes the intensity similar to the Cree.

SSC in a D20 Beamshot no Cree Rings! :D

McR-18 in a D10 Q3-5A

Send me a PM if you are interested :D

Notice! - I will no longer be modding Nitecore lights, as the drivers have a tendency to fail for no apparent reason. On the flip side, I may consider modding a fried Nitecore with a different driver. A fried Nitecore Extreme works well with a GDuP driver, but the cost of the driver and installation is close to the same price as a new light. You do reap the benefits of a more reliable driver.
 
Last edited:

EngrPaul

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 28, 2006
Messages
3,678
Location
PA
Re: Q3-5A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

I just modded my D20 to Neutral white Q3, and it's awesome. :twothumbs

It's brighter than stock and no longer green.

I kinda wonder if the stock emitter is really a Q5. :duck:
 

Tekno_Cowboy

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
1,680
Location
Minnesota
Re: Q3-5A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

Yours was green?
Mine was more blue. EIther way, not very nice when you're dealing with most of the colors you find in nature, especially reds and browns. The 5A tint is much nicer. :D
 

sohl

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Messages
29
Location
sweden
Re: Q3-5A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

what would the output be with Q3-5A?

I love my EX10 and more output is always nice.
 

Tekno_Cowboy

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
1,680
Location
Minnesota
Re: Q3-5A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

That's a slightly tricky question to answer. The Q3 bin actually puts out less light, but because of the warmer tint and Higher CRI, the light becomes more useful in many situations.

A good example is outdoors. If you use the WC cool white bin that you see in many lights, things tend to look washed out, or faded. Using a warmer tint, like the 5A makes colors more accurate, and allows you to see more at a lower output.
 

Cuso

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
May 18, 2006
Messages
1,733
Location
Florida
Re: Q3-5A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

what would the output be with Q3-5A?

I love my EX10 and more output is always nice.

That's a slightly tricky question to answer. The Q3 bin actually puts out less light, but because of the warmer tint and Higher CRI, the light becomes more useful in many situations.

A good example is outdoors. If you use the WC cool white bin that you see in many lights, things tend to look washed out, or faded. Using a warmer tint, like the 5A makes colors more accurate, and allows you to see more at a lower output.
That basically the trade-off with this BINs, less light = more color. Tekno , maybe some beamshots are in order? I would like to see the difference between a factory Nitecore vs. a modded one...
 

Tekno_Cowboy

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
1,680
Location
Minnesota
Re: Q3-5A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

I'll be picking up a new D10 or EX10 soon, and I plan to do comparative beamshots. :D
 

Tekno_Cowboy

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
1,680
Location
Minnesota
Re: Q3-5A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

I found a quicker source for Q3-5A's, and I can now get Q3-3A's if there's an interest.
 

jasonsmaglites

Enlightened
Joined
Feb 15, 2007
Messages
980
Re: Q3-5A or Q3-3A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

what does the 5a and 3a after the bin stand for? i was thinking amperage but then it would be brighter than the stock unit (unless the d10s driver is all holding it back)
 

LukeA

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
4,399
Location
near Pittsburgh
Re: Q3-5A or Q3-3A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

what does the 5a and 3a after the bin stand for? i was thinking amperage but then it would be brighter than the stock unit (unless the d10s driver is all holding it back)

Those are designations for warm white tint bins, much as WC, WD, WH, and so on are designations for cool white bins.
 

olrac

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 25, 2007
Messages
2,029
Location
Lake Zurich, Illinois, USA
Re: Q3-5A or Q3-3A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

what does the 5a and 3a after the bin stand for? i was thinking amperage but then it would be brighter than the stock unit (unless the d10s driver is all holding it back)


These refer to the chromaticity region of that particular LED here is a link if you want to learn more about that. (look at pages 7 and 13 in particular)

http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLamp7090XR-E_B&L.pdf

:wave:
 

EngrPaul

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 28, 2006
Messages
3,678
Location
PA
Re: Q3-5A or Q3-3A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

what does the 5a and 3a after the bin stand for? i was thinking amperage but then it would be brighter than the stock unit (unless the d10s driver is all holding it back)

These refer to the tint bin of the emitter.

cree_warm.jpg
 

divine

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 30, 2007
Messages
1,840
Location
Virginia
Re: Q3-5A or Q3-3A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

I have a 3A and it is a little on the red (pink) side. I prefer 5A over 3A.
 

Tekno_Cowboy

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
1,680
Location
Minnesota
Re: Q3-5A or Q3-3A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

I have a 3A and it is a little on the red (pink) side. I prefer 5A over 3A.
I'll probably get some 3A's to try out. If they are more on the pink side, I'll probably agree with you though.
The 5A is a very nice tint, smack dab in between your usual cool white LED, and your typical high-output xenon.
 

gunga

Flashaholic
Joined
Nov 29, 2006
Messages
8,080
Location
Vancouver, BC, Canada
Re: Q3-5A or Q3-3A Modded Nitecore D10/D20/EX10

Is there a good source for emitters other than say cutter?

5A is amazing. This looks like a very cool mod.
 
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