GD1000 & MC-E

I need a little advise (or maybe alot) I have a kl4 with a GD1000 and a P4 running on a 17670 want a little more, my question is, can I run a MC-E with the GD1000? and if I can how which configuration do I use?

Shouldn't be a problem.

Wire it 4P

I'd like to give you my opinion on the MC-E int he KL4.

I have done about 3-4 MC-E mods to KL4's.
The beam isn't the best.

I have done 9-10 P7 mods in the KL4.
Using a P7 would give you a much better beam and it throws a lot more than the MC-E when combined with the KL4 reflector.




Either way, you will need a shim to raise the emitter up to the KL4 reflector and material has to be removed from the backside in order for either LED to fit and focus properly.


MC-E....LEFT---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- P7....RIGHT

did you happen to have pics of your p7? I have seen the finished product but didnt see the innerworkings
thank you.

how much brighter is the p7 than the p4?

Updated with a beamshot

Both running stock drivers

I'm sold on the p7 gd1000 will be appropriate? and single cell 17670

Should work fine, as it will be underpowering the P7.

If you want to get REALLY CRAZY, buy a Shark Buck at 2A or 3A and run the P7 even harder. Heat will be an issue, but if you use it for short periods, it should be fine. I have been able to fit a standard shark in the KL4 in the past and the Shark buck is has the same demensions.
Just make sure to glue the shark buck to the heatsink if you decide to go this route.

A McE2S switch will make your light a 2-stage, and IMO would make it more useful.

hmmm a shark... I think that I will be sticking with the gd1000 I like having about 30 min of light thank you very much for all your advise

jbieszke said:

hmmm a shark... I think that I will be sticking with the gd1000 I like having about 30 min of light thank you very much for all your advise

Click to expand...

No problem.

Let us know how it turns out.

DaFABRICATA said:

Shouldn't be a problem.

Wire it 2s2p

Click to expand...

I'm probably mistaken in how I understand the electrical behavior in 2S2P, but wouldn't the voltage drop be ~6.5V for the MC-E in 2S2P, while the max Vout for the GD is listed as 5.4V? Seems like you could use an SOB 1000 and two Li-ion cells for the power source, except that the total power looks potentially high (~6.6W). Can the SOB run at that power output without potting or heat sinking? If not, an SOB 750 would be running closer to 4.8W, which might be ok, but I don't know that for sure either.

If you heat sink the board, what is the key component on the board to keep cool? On the GD, I assume it is the relatively large, squarish IC. On the SOB, is it the 6-pin IC sort of across from the inductor?

Justin is right. With the GD, MC-E should be wired in 4P & not in 2S2P. Only with the BB (2 primaries) or SOB (w/ 3 primaries or 2 li-ions) should it be wired in 2S2P.

If you use an SOB 1000 to drive an MC-E in 2S2P, it looks like the 2xLi-ions have to be able to deliver about 1.1A-1.2A of input current to the driver board. Thus, you might want to use 2xIMR16340 if you go with those small Li-ions. You are pushing the recommended 2C max discharge rate for standard Li-Co 16340s. Larger Li-ions like 17670 and 18650 should be fine without having to go to IMRs.

The SOB 1000 will generate about 6.6W of power to light up the MC-E in 2S2P, so you probably may want to pot the driver board to help dissipate the heat.

Also, besides 3xLi primaries, I think you could also drive the works with 4xLi primaries.

I don't see much reason to use a GD 1000 for an MC-E in 4P. Seems like it really limits your battery configuration choices vs using an SOB 1000. And for either board, the slightly increased lumens output doesn't seem to be worth the extra expense and effort vs a single die LED like a Seoul P4.