I've Got The Blues

souptree

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Dec 24, 2005
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atwood_spy007_blues_800.jpg


atwood_spy007_1_800.jpg


atwood_spy007_2_800.jpg


atwood_spy007_lunasoup_800.jpg
 

Chronos

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Soup,

You are a WILD man!!! :devil: How did you blast and anodize the SPY007- did Peter do it?

Wow.
 

chipwillis

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That is sweet. I had thought about having that done to one of mine, but I didn't know who would do it.
 

souptree

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Peter, Peter, pumpkin eater. Had a light and couldn't keep her. :nana:

Yup, the Ti parts were sent to Peter Atwood for anodizing prior to assembly and then back to Dave for the final steps. It was originally going to be Tropical, to match LunaSoup, and it wasn't going to be bead blasted, but there were some problems along the way and Peter had to redo it twice. :ohgeez: I do think it came out pretty nice in the end though! Because of the problems, I do not know if Peter will want to do any more of these lights, but I believe Dave is talking to him about it. My advice if you are chomping at the bit is to just let Dave handle it if it's going to happen.

I do not think it is possible to anodize a light while it's assembled, so anodizing existing lights may be more trouble than it's worth and would almost certainly require Dave's participation, unless you are some kind of mad genius. The bead blasting, I suppose, might be possible with good masking. Perhaps one of our machinists can comment on that, because it's just a guess on my part.

This is my first Spy and I was very interested in checking out this light that many have stated is a peer to McGizdom. It certainly seems every bit worthy of the hype. Quite the little engineering marvel. One thing I can say about it is that the beam is freakin' GORGEOUS. This may well be the nicest beam of any light I own. I am still adjusting to this light. The interface is very nice, but I do not know if I can get used to a non-PD at this point. I am also a little wary of a thousand dollar light I can't thread paracord through. In any event, it will be fun deciding!! :party:
 

Data

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Soup asked, and I wanted to do it anyway just to see how it would turn out. My pictures below are enhanced with photoshop. The real light is not that dark of a blue but it is close. Not easy to capture with a camera.

When I talked to Peter after he got the parts, he said he wanted me to talk Soup out of having it done because he liked the machined finish so much. :tinfoil: Well I have seen his stuff, he does great work. I told him, "I'm not talking Soup out of it!" :nana:

As many of you know titanium ano changes color when you touch it. If you wash it with dawn dish soap and water, this light is blue, closer to the color of my pictures. However after you handle it, it looks closer to the aqua-blue color seen in Soups pictures.


HV2T1132b.jpg


HV2T1133b.jpg


HV2T1135b.jpg


HV2T1136b.jpg



Cheers
Dave
 

Chronos

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Hmmmm... got me thinking of AlTiN coating, with parts of the SPY007 in bead blast, others in the standard finish.

Hmmm.


Could be the anejo talking though....:ironic:
 

FrogmanM

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Now that you have that sweet coating on 007, there is only one more question... what color trit?:naughty:

Mayo

(indeed I would luv a AlTiN coating on mine... maybe some day down the road...):D
 

souptree

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I have a couple of blue trits here for the blue Spy but they haven't been installed yet and given I have no Norland, I dunno when that will happen.

I am a HUGE proponent of AlTiN. My AlTiN Mule is AWESOME!! The threads are MUCH smoother than any of my other Gizmos. It feels nice in the hand. And boy oh boy, does it just look sooooOoOoooo damn cool. I call it Darth Mule. Dave, I definitely think you should look into AlTiN. DLC would be pretty cool too. Peter's got the DLC hookup.

Thanks for telling Peter you wouldn't talk me out of it. LOL! Believe me, he tried! :crackup:
 

toby_pra

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I need to bring this thread up, with the question, if its necessary to dissabmle the light (This Spy007) before
anodizing?! Or is its enuogh to take the battery's of?

Dave you have any advise please?!
 

toby_pra

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Why heat? I would not anodize with heat, the more with laboratory power supply unit ;)

Foto%2003.02.12%2017%2031%2054.jpg



some better pics
P1040222.JPG


IMG_0170.JPG



Much better results than with heatcoloring. Also i can accurately determine what color i want to have.

BUT i need to know if its bad for the electronic inside. I know that Don shows a Haiku anodizing
with a battery inside, so it should be possible. But dont know if its the same with a Spy.
 

Data

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Ano requires submerging the light in water solution. You can not keep the reflector from getting wet if you get the electronics wet. You will need to take the light apart.

Cheers
Dave
 
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toby_pra

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So its not possible to put the hole light into the solution?

It would not do anything to the lens IMO. The only thing is you
need to protect the stainless part, the knob at the battery cap.
 
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