Surefire mini G2

[leukos]

Very clever! I like the look of this little light.

[mtwarden]

I've got a couple of G2's and was wanting a slightly smaller light- does anyone offer this service by chance?

thanks in advance

[LonghunterCO]

I have access to a the equipment but I do not know how to use them so I may have to go the hand tool route. (How did I miss this thread?)

[mtwarden]

I might be wrong, but I think if someone were to provide this service I think it would be well received

lots of G2's floating around

[mtwarden]

whoops- double post

[mtwarden]

finally got mine done, w/o a lathe this definitely ranks right up there w/ some of my top PITA projects, but pretty satisfied w/ the outcome

[LonghunterCO]

yes..

The metal sleeve insert in originally G2
Thanks, Bill





my another mini surefire...

Was the camo one on ethe G2 combat lights orgionally?

[POLICE_STATE]

1 Surefire G2
1 Lumens Factory EO-4
1 AW 18350
1 Heck of a lot of work
Equals a cool toy.
Yes, I know I did not use an extender, and you can see part of "SURFIRE". I still kinda like it.
You guys still want to buy these?

[Pontiaker]

I offered to do more but really got very little interest. Its a fun DIY but hard to make any money doing this let alone just getting paid for my time. Yours look great too:~)

The tube seems to be flared on both ends, I just cut the head off to the proper length with the tube inside, then removed the long portion of tube, completed the rest of the mod then inserted the tube in from the tailcap end and trimmed it to the correct length needed by looking into the body and making it come up through like the original did.I also ground down the tube in the middle to get rid of the pattern that was on it and the half of the Surefire name that was left.Its really easy, cant wait to try it on some metal lights after my new lathe tooling gets here.
Matt

[POLICE_STATE]

I thought running an 18350 might make it more appealing. Also, mine is a half inch shorter. There is no telling what people will buy, but we know what people say they will buy.

[LonghunterCO]

So, who makes a good drop-in LED for the C-series surefire that will run on a single cr123? Markof in that voltage range are for a E-series and you have to go to his head.

[Kestrel]

So, who makes a good drop-in LED for the C-series surefire that will run on a single cr123? Markof in that voltage range are for a E-series and you have to go to his head.

I know that the Malkoff M31 description is a little confusing, but it fits these hosts and it's perfect with 1xCR123. The best match with 1xRCR123 (actually 1xIMR) is the M61. BTW that is why the discontinued M30's are still popular - they run harder on a single lithium-ion rechargeable compared to the M61's.

BTW it's cool that someone is 'carrying the torch' (so to speak ) for this cool but labor-intensive mod. Good job folks.

[mtwarden]

So, who makes a good drop-in LED for the C-series surefire that will run on a single cr123? Markof in that voltage range are for a E-series and you have to go to his head.

I'd be interested in finding something that works- it's a little anemic as is on one cell. I purchased a drop-in sometime ago (so long I can't remember which one )- it didn't work- fitment issues

[LonghunterCO]

I know that the Malkoff M31 description is a little confusing, but it fits these hosts and it's perfect with 1xCR123. The best match with 1xRCR123 (actually 1xIMR) is the M61. BTW that is why the discontinued M30's are still popular - they run harder on a single lithium-ion rechargeable compared to the M61's.

BTW it's cool that someone is 'carrying the torch' (so to speak ) for this cool but labor-intensive mod. Good job folks.

The 61's have an input voltage requirment of 3.4V regulated (with a RCR123 at 3v and below 3.4 it drops to direct drive). Are you saying run it direct drive?

[POLICE_STATE]

I have found that malkoffs don't work well with G series lights. They have no springs to make contact with the sleeve.

[notrefined]

1 Surefire G2
1 Lumens Factory EO-4
1 AW 18350
1 Heck of a lot of work
Equals a cool toy.

How did you get an 18350 to fit?

[Pontiaker]

Guys there are a ton of drop ins that work with these, might have to mad a spring for better contact but I run several normal P6 drop ins made for 3v-8v or so. Couple multi modes work best for me. Cool using the 18350, was short enough for me using the 650, already hard to hold onto! ;~) I got tired of fatter 6P head size in my pocket and went with other brands single 18650 smaller head stuff.

[mtwarden]

looked up which one (drop-in) I had it was a XPG R5, it didn't work unfortunately

if someone has that does work well (and actually has a shortened G2 they've tired w/ it) I'm all ears

[Kestrel]

The 61's have an input voltage requirment of 3.4V regulated (with a RCR123 at 3v and below 3.4 it drops to direct drive). Are you saying run it direct drive?

OK, now you're confusing me. Your prior post stated "CR123" so I assumed that you were talking about non-rechargeable CR123's. Now in your post above you state "RCR123" (which are 3.7v LiIon rechargeables) but also state "3v", which only matches the open-circuit voltage of a non-rechargeable CR123. I am very familiar with both chemistries as well as the Malkoff dropin line and I'd like to answer your questions, but it is unclear as to what you are looking for.

The Malkoff M61 line is designed to be the best match for LiIon rechargeables or multiple CR123 primaries, while the M31 line is designed to be the best match for a single CR123 lithium primary or 2xAA NiMH's. I would be happy to supply more detailed information once I know what your desired cell chemistry for this light.

Best regards,

[Pontiaker]

As long as its the proper voltage for the battery you are using, you just need to make sure the outer spring on your drop, if it has one, is narrow enough at the bottom that it makes contact with the metal liner of the light. Are you trying to use it in a cut down G2?

[LonghunterCO]

OK, now you're confusing me. Your prior post stated "CR123" so I assumed that you were talking about non-rechargeable CR123's. Now in your post above you state "RCR123" (which are 3.7v LiIon rechargeables) but also state "3v", which only matches the open-circuit voltage of a non-rechargeable CR123. I am very familiar with both chemistries as well as the Malkoff dropin line and I'd like to answer your questions, but it is unclear as to what you are looking for.

The Malkoff M61 line is designed to be the best match for LiIon rechargeables or multiple CR123 primaries, while the M31 line is designed to be the best match for a single CR123 lithium primary or 2xAA NiMH's. I would be happy to supply more detailed information once I know what your desired cell chemistry for this light.

Best regards,

Sorry I was not trying to be confusing- In my post I was talking about Cr123 primaries. As that is what I was interested in and what I stock. So that was my first choice for a single cell build.
Your reply mentioned rechargable 123's so I was wondering if there was something about their output vs. CR 123 primeries that allowed for longer run time. Not being familure with them I looked them up and they seemed to be the same voltage.

[Kestrel]

OK, no worries. The M31 runs like a champ from 1xCR123, the only issue is heat in the nitrolon head/bezel. Very much recommend against a continuous run with that setup - the M31L might be a better option depending on what you're looking for. 45 minutes total runtime w/1xCR123 with the full-power version. Again, I know that the Malkoff description of the M31 is a bit confusing, it's a great match for 3P's but I guess SF hasn't been selling many of those lately, lol.

[mtwarden]

I have found that malkoffs don't work well with G series lights. They have no springs to make contact with the sleeve.

is there a workaround for that? another drop-in that does work w/ the G series?

[Kestrel]

My unmodified Malkoffs have always worked perfectly with my unmodified G-series lights. My wife's G2/M60LL has never faltered for an instant over the past three years she's had it. BTW there are a few troubleshooting threads for this topic, please feel free to use the CPF-Google search function for that. The usual suspect is the conductive metal sleeve being too far 'down' into the nitrolon body as viewed from the head end.