Oracle 35W HID

[windstrings]

No prob.. these are things that are hard to discover until you buy one.... at least the cutting edge stuff.

As little power LED's draw and as Little Heat, seems there is almost no limit to how many Cree's you could cram into a reflector..... Although I'm delighted LED has progressed so far, I"m still puzzled why someone hasn't gone nuts and made one comparable to the HID's in output.

[recDNA]

Does this light flicker like the 24 watt version?

How hot does it get? How fast?

Is there still a cpf discount available? Where? Code?

[windstrings]

No flickering at all that I recall.

Seems you just have to find the right website to get the discount.
Here is a couple:

[Links deleted. Dealer discounts should be discussed in the MP - DM51]

But you can always call them and give them your username from cpf and they will honor the lower price. Ask for Justin

Doesn't really get hot per se.... its always warm and comfortable to touch as I recall.
The 35 has allot more heat sink than the 24 I would assume even with the higher output.

[The Voice of Reason]

Just do a search in Google for "oracle hid"

The top find, go there.
Click on products, then go to "oracle HID flashlights"

Looks like those are the regular prices... look as post #19 on this thread.

Call them up and tell them you are from here, they should sell it at the lower price.

p.s. I think there days are numbered on cpf unless they become a subscriber.
Maybe you could suggest that to Justin if he wants good exposure from here.

Thanks very much, mate!

[ndompierre]

However, He did say if you store the light with the battery "inside" the light you risk it discharging. I didn't understand why, but thats the scoop.

I"ve never tried storing the battery "outside" the light, but thats not good for me as I need to be able to store a light and when I grab it to use, its ready. One of the reasons I always go lithium whenever possible.

Well, i always stored the battery outside the light and the current draw was still here. It seems to be a design flaw. I'm also curious about the battery of the 24w version !

[Patriot]

It sounds like you have a broken/faulty protection circuit. See the 24W Oracle thread and the work that BVH is doing. I also linked a nifty little PCB in that thread which is available at Battery Junction.

[ndompierre]

It sounds like you have a broken/faulty protection circuit. See the 24W Oracle thread and the work that BVH is doing. I also linked a nifty little PCB in that thread which is available at Battery Junction.

Yes, my protection circuit was faulty, but the current draw was there after i removed it, so i think that the clickie circuit is faulty.

[Patriot]

Yes, my protection circuit was faulty, but the current draw was there after i removed it, so i think that the clickie circuit is faulty.

Oh, so you suspect the switch itself has a draw! In some ways that's almost worse. I'm not sure what you can do about that but if that's the case, at least you can remove it from the light to prevent it from discharging.

[windstrings]

Since you have to take the battery out of the light anyway to charge it.... would have been nice if they just used a conventional format such as CR123's or 18650's or 18500's so that folks could purchase that part themselves.

It lowers the initial cost of the light but the ballast would have to be built independent of the battery which seems to be the choice every other manufacturer has taken.
Not sure what the idea is behind making them as one unit... but as with anything, the more something is integrated, the more risk of problems and those problems will take out the whole unit easier should they arise.

This little issue about the battery self discharging has become a big issue.
The choice of adding the battery pack with the unit verses giving the customer a choice and/or having them buy the battery separate is merely a marketing decision.
I do like the latitude to use the latest, best battery in a given format "which is harder to do if the pack is already pre-assembled into a bulk pack" without custom modding.

Too bad about this little glitch, because the light itself seems to be good.
If the ballast was not connected to the battery, even the vendors here in the states could modify it and sell a modifyed version that removed the weaknesses of the foreign model.

It lessens the benefit in using LiIon if they are going to self drain when not on charge.

This little issue is not subliminal at all and should have been caught during production unless it was rushed to market before time, else they figured it was a non issue "which I disagree".
China seems to throw out allot of half baked items with its frantic competition to get a product to market.... "almost reminds me of Microsoft!....

Keep in mind, I'm stating all this "assuming" the issue I experienced is with them all and not just a "malfunction" with the one I had.
When I called in, they insisted my issue was with them all in respect that they would drain down if left in the light.

It is hard medicine to swallow to present a light at a very good price and then have the market rip it to shreds as they expect it to be perfect.

But welcome to the CPF club.... the critics here show little mercy and expect excellence regardless of price if a feature is advertised or if a given performance of a feature has become a standard based on the competition.

Its not like the type of battery being used here is so cutting edge that it cannot be found by sources and vendors that have proven them already.

If features are low or missing on a product and is reflected by the price... so be it, but if a feature that is reported as being there does not perform as expected.... look out for cold hard scrutiny!
People would rather not have a feature than have one that fails.

My main gripe about the Oracle is that it seems to be a half baked pie in the sense that the manual is barely written in proper english as has lots of holes and misrepresentations in its explanations.
There are statements of fact that are negated as false when you call in to question about them.

If a manufacturer is going to sell a product from another foreign company, seems someone would go through the trouble to interpret and bring the manual up to speed to answer the calls that pour in.


People are only offended when they expect something and don't get it.

If A. The advertising accurately reflects the product Sold B. The Manual accurately reflects the specs and characteristics of use, it will remove most of the opportunity for offense from the customer.

Too much advertising only says the highlights of the good and leaves out the bad.... if the bad is left out, it should not be found later by the customers if that product expects to survive for long.

[ndompierre]

Oh, so you suspect the switch itself has a draw! In some ways that's almost worse. I'm not sure what you can do about that but if that's the case, at least you can remove it from the light to prevent it from discharging.

Since the clickie circuit is integrated in the battery, i installed a switch that completely disconnect the battery pack from the clickie circuit. Now, i have no more problems !

[windstrings]

Since the clickie circuit is integrated in the battery, i installed a switch that completely disconnect the battery pack from the clickie circuit. Now, i have no more problems !

good job!.....that should be an easy fix now if they choose to pursue it.

Its good to know the problem is not deeper.

[Patriot]

Since you have to take the battery out of the light anyway to charge it.... would have been nice if they just used a conventional format such as CR123's or 18650's or 18500's so that folks could purchase that part themselves.

Good post Windy. I think the main reason that these lights come with rechargeable packs and built in PCB's is due mainly to the number of cells we're talking about and the technical knowledge of the average buyer. In the case of the 35W Oracle you're talking about six cells. Most chargers are two bay chargers with an average charging time of 2-4 hours. The average Joe/Jane would get fed up with that type of arrangement rather quickly. People don't like to fuss with individual batteries in general and also means that the manufacturer would have to provide the light with protected cells to prevent a li-ion mishap.

I am seeing something happen in the industry that gives me some hope that we'll eventually see HID lights sold without a pack and charger, and instead just the light itself ready to accept the cells of our choice. The Fenix TK40 P7 light uses 8 X AA cells with the standard thinking that most users with opt for NiMh rechargeables. The fact that a now popular manufacturer is actually endorsing the rechargeable option on a high cell count light is encouraging. The main difference in that case though is that a person can use standard AA if that's all they know.

The EagleTac M2, JB M1X, Olight M30 and others are only two cell li-ion rechargeables but it's another step in the right direction. The NeoFaB L2 is a 3 x 18650, MC-E light and even though it's a low production light, it's nice to see people willing to seperately charge 3 of their own cells to use with that light. What we really need is some good 4,6 and even 8 bay li-ion chargers to become available before multi-naked cell, li-ion lights can get popular. By multi-cell, I mean 3 or more.

[CUL8R]

Since the clickie circuit is integrated in the battery, i installed a switch that completely disconnect the battery pack from the clickie circuit. Now, i have no more problems !

ndompierre,

I'm finally going to buy one of these this week (wish the silver ones weren't backordered) and I'd sure like to see how you put your switch in. Any pictures and/or instructions? I want to do the same thing to avoid any possibility of parasitic discharge.

Jim

[CUL8R]

Does anyone have any longer range beam shots for this light? I'd really like to see what to expect at 100-200 yards.

Jim

[Patriot]

Does anyone have any longer range beam shots for this light? I'd really like to see what to expect at 100-200 yards.

Jim

I briefly searched for you but didn't find anything.

One thing that I've learned is that beamshots of any light usually aren't representative on anything unless they're directly compared to something else that you're familiar with. You end up really having to rely on the camera and photographer to capture a realistic exposure which can be very difficult. Most of the time if I can get to within one F-stop of light accuracy I'm overjoyed. The reason that I can get away with these inaccuracies is that I'm comparing several other well known lights which adds relevance and perspective.

It sort of depends on what types of lights you're used to in order to help you understand how a 35W, OP reflectored, light like the Oracle will perform. Generally speaking, if you're new to HID you'll be jaw droped by this type of light.

[windstrings]

I agree... unless you've had exposure to higher wattage HID's you "will" be impressed!

The only thing I can add is a little of the lumens of this light is used for lots of spill, otherwise, the distance shot is pretty much the same.... just not quite "as much" once you get there.. but the distance is there.

In other words.... it will have the same throw as the best 35W HID spotlight out there, but keep in mind that some of the light is also used for spill and periphery rather than "just" distance like a pure spotlight would be. At that lighted area at 300 yards will not be as concentrated in one spot as its spread more.
Nevertheless, with that being said, it does have a very nice hot spot in the center that penetrates the distance.

This is more of an awesome flashlight!

It will be the most impressive flashlight you've ever put your hands on I'm sure.

When it comes to performance or making an impression, this light will deliver.

[Richie086]

I agree... unless you've had exposure to higher wattage HID's you "will" be impressed!

The only thing I can add is a little of the lumens of this light is used for lots of spill, otherwise, the distance shot is pretty much the same.... just not quite "as much" once you get there.. but the distance is there.

As I've said in the past, the 35w is a great all-around HID flashlight. It's fairly tight and adjustable beam yields good distance and the excellent spill allows it to be used in close quarters or walking through thick woods. Add to the fact it's 4300k, make it a great choice for most any situation and at a fair price.

With two dealers on this forum, Tactical HID and Oracle, you won't have to risk sending money to someone off in China and wonder if you'll even recieve it.

[BVH]

Richie, do either of your Oracles have the self-discharge issue?

[Richie086]

Richie, do either of your Oracles have the self-discharge issue?

Nope, the Tactical HID 24w and the Oracle 24w and the one 35w battery packs work as they should.

[ndompierre]

ndompierre,

I'm finally going to buy one of these this week (wish the silver ones weren't backordered) and I'd sure like to see how you put your switch in. Any pictures and/or instructions? I want to do the same thing to avoid any possibility of parasitic discharge.

Jim

I will be very happy to post pictures of what i've done, but i wil do this in 1 month, my flashlight is in my trailer, and i will go there in 2 weeks for 2 weeks.

I can explain what i've done.

I've used a mini swith rated 4 amps 12v
I opened the battery container on the connectors end (where's the 3 led light) removing 3 screws.

I drilled a little hole on the side of the container just where the battery finish inside and make it wider with my dremel

I cutted the positive wire between the battery pack and the board. and soldered wires to extend them, and soldered to the switch.

I cutted a plastic plate of 1/16 inches that that fit perfectly inside the aluminium compartment of the battery.

Now i fitted the plastic plate inside the container on the top of the battery, put the switch on it. The tip of the switch must be accessible by the little hole but fit flush. I hot glued the switch on the plate, and closed the container.

[ndompierre]

Nope, both my 24w and 35w battery packs work as they should.

I'm curious Richie, did you left them sit on the shelves for 2 months or more ? By what i discovered (a 3.3 milliamps draw from the clickie board) it take about 2 month to fully discharge the battery. i was able to see a voltage drop of about 0.08v per day steadily.

Me and windstrings probably got defective clickie board.

[Richie086]

I'm curious Richie, did you left them sit on the shelves for 2 months or more ? By what i discovered (a 3.3 milliamps draw from the clickie board) it take about 2 month to fully discharge the battery. i was able to see a voltage drop of about 0.08v per day steadily.

Me and windstrings probably got defective clickie board.

Hi ND,

The longest I've let my (2) 24w and 35w sit for is about a month. Recently I needed all of them during a long blackout here. They were all fully charged before sitting for that amount of time and ran for roughy what they should have.

About 35-40 minutes for the 24w Oracle and about 50 minutes for the 6000k model I purchased from Tactical HID. The 35 watt Oracle ran somewhere past an hour being used on the 28 watt mode. I had no idea what the battery voltage was on any of them at the time I needed to use them. However, all my HID flashlights are always fully charged before stored and the batteries inside the unit ready for use. I hope this information helps a bit.

[CUL8R]

I briefly searched for you but didn't find anything.


It sort of depends on what types of lights you're used to in order to help you understand how a 35W, OP reflectored, light like the Oracle will perform. Generally speaking, if you're new to HID you'll be jaw droped by this type of light.

Most of my recent experience is with LEDs. My two brightest LEDS being an Olight M30 and an EagleTac M2XC4. I did stop by my local wallyworld and buy a Stanley HID about a week ago, but haven't gotten it up to the isolated area (no lights) where our cabin is yet, and its hard to get a good idea how good it is here in town (Colorado Springs).

I'm going to be ordering a 35W Oracle in the next day or two. Can't wait to try it out (and the Stanley) up at camp. There is a lot of wildlife up at our cabin, and we have a number of Giant breed dogs that go up there with us. Before I take them out at night I need to make certain there aren't any deer of elk close by first. The dogs are well behaved but if they startled a deer and it ran, they might try to catch it . And it'd also be good to see the occasional visiting black bear before I stumble into him at night. Although to be honest, they usually run away as fast as they can when they encounter a human.

[windstrings]

I just recently purchased the M1X "which I love"... its LED "quad" and quite impressive...... But jumping to HID will be quite a jump.

I think your going to be delightfully surprised at the performance!

LED's just can't quite compare yet.

As good as some of the single LED's are, they don't have the total lumens throw the HID's are capable of.
And the LED lights that combine several LED's can get the lumens, but don't have the throw due to the reflectors being too tiny for each LED.

HID's are not instant on as LED's are and the lights will tend to be more fragile and heavier.

LED's have come a long long way and carry unique advantages... but HID is still quite impressive!.. An impression thats hard to beat if you want a long distance throw light.

Its hard to get tired of it... everytime you turn it on, you'll be amazed all over again at the massive amount of light and lumens it throws and how it just literally lights up the world in front of you!

[CUL8R]

I will be very happy to post pictures of what i've done, but i wil do this in 1 month, my flashlight is in my trailer, and i will go there in 2 weeks for 2 weeks.

I can explain what i've done.

Thank you. I appreciate the info. I'm ordering the light in the next day or two. I'm willing to try to keep my hands off it for a couple of months after I test it and fully try it out. That way I can see if I have the same problem. If so, it'll be time to install a switch in mine also. It'd be really nice if storing the light with the tailcap loose would fix the problem. That is the way I have to store my LED M2XC4 to prevent parasitic loss.

Jim

[Juggernaut]

I"m still puzzled why someone hasn't gone nuts and made one comparable to the HID's in output.

Have you seen Electrolumens newest light, 8,400+ Lumens out the front!, it that enough LED power for you?
(Never Mind I saw that you did.)

[Patriot]

Most of my recent experience is with LEDs. My two brightest LEDS being an Olight M30 and an EagleTac M2XC4. I did stop by my local wallyworld and buy a Stanley HID about a week ago, but haven't gotten it up to the isolated area (no lights) where our cabin is yet, and its hard to get a good idea how good it is here in town (Colorado Springs).

I'm going to be ordering a 35W Oracle in the next day or two. Can't wait to try it out (and the Stanley) up at camp. There is a lot of wildlife up at our cabin, and we have a number of Giant breed dogs that go up there with us. Before I take them out at night I need to make certain there aren't any deer of elk close by first. The dogs are well behaved but if they startled a deer and it ran, they might try to catch it . And it'd also be good to see the occasional visiting black bear before I stumble into him at night. Although to be honest, they usually run away as fast as they can when they encounter a human.

Ok, well I think you'll be amazed at the difference in performance between the two LED lights you mentioned and the two HID's your speaking of. You'll be seeing about 4-5 times the overall output of he others and 2-3 times the lux on target. That means you'll at least double the range at which you can effectively spot things at night and while you're up at camp and this this will become immediately evident. Have fun and try to get some pictures. I love Colorado!

[windstrings]

Have you seen Electrolumens newest light, 8,400+ Lumens out the front!, it that enough LED power for you?
(Never Mind I saw that you did.)

Juggernaut, I'm excited at the cutting edge innovations Electrolumens is bringing to the table. With instant on, ruggedness, low power consumption etc, I would jump on the 8400 lumen LED if it had throw.

But I believe its going to be like a handful of very bright low throw lights bundled together!

If you want to light up the world right in front of you.. that will be the light for you... a tad expensive for no throw for me however.

Even if you light a thousand candles... I understand that all that light will still light up a distant spot more than one candle.... but my question is "which one will light up a white pie plate at 300 yards the most?

Based on the answer I got, the 12 LED P7 Kong is not what I'm looking for.

I don't want to discourage anyone else who may want it.. just make sure you know what your getting. Especially for what its going to cost.
He compares it to HID's that cost a ton for that many lumens, but its comparing an apple with an orange.

Each of those 12 LED's have a very tiny reflector.

As you know "tiny reflectors" are only so efficient to transmit light.

Take the same single LED that has a tiny reflector and give it a 3 inch reflector or larger and the throw and even total lumen output goes crazy!
The M1X and others are a good example.

If we could get 12 LED's in one housing that all had 3 inch reflectors.. guess how big the final reflector would be?

IMO, the 3500 lumen HID will outthrow the 8400 lumen Kong 12 LED for distance big time!.... Oracle is far cheaper than the Kong will be.

I"m basing that on my experience because i have the 9000+ lumen HID barnburner 80+Watt HID.

Having all those lumens going one basic direction is devastating, but being scattered in multidirections from many tiny reflectors has a different effect.

[LOUSYGREATWALLGM]

Hi guys, I've just registered and my first post on this forum. Can anyone tell me where to find the replacement o-ring for the battery cover? Thanks in advance!

[LOUSYGREATWALLGM]

Hi guys, sorry coz its off topic but after reading this thread it seems that you guys are prof when it comes to flashlight so I think I can get my answer here. I'm trying to find a replacement o-ring for the 35W Oracle HID flashlight battery cover coz my o-ring is damaged . Any suggestion where to find one? Thanks!