bi-flupic'd Rainier P7 (Completed - many pics)

[MWClint]

Made some good headway today...just waiting on the extra ldo regulator chips for the bi-flupic mod..and then wire it up. probably tues/wednesday. its going to be a loooong wait. i'm really excited about this one.

P7 DSWOI
Ledil - S Boom reflector
IMR 16340
dremeled heatsink. ow my hands.
Flupic 1 amp - when using darkzero's bi-flupic idea from http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=205201
it will pull 2 amps.

[stefanj]

That is going to be amazing when finished! Damn I gotta save some pennies and get myself a Brass Peak- they are gorgeous. Do you ever sell any of these lights you've modded?

[Cuso]

Dude you're sick...get some help.

[LED_Thrift]

I can't wait to see beamshots & read your impressions of this. Looks beautiful in brass.

Dude you're sick...get some help.

Many of us are in the same boat - Hey, maybe we can do a group buy on counseling!

[MWClint]

And it's done!

Here's all the parts ready to go in.


Bored out rainier - peak epoxy potting all gone(it's some nasty stuff)


solid copper heatsink, cut from rectangle stock, dremeled and hand filed
to shape. never again...my hands are sore and blistered. it's time for a lathe.


mock setup, i did have to trim the outer hexagon off the ledil-s reflector.


bi-flupic mod:
getting ready to solder the extra ldo chips to extend the flupic to 2 amp high.


one side of the stack


other side.


holes drilled in heatsink for wires and a razor thin layer of AA to isolate the
p7 slug.


p7 thermal epoxied in place.


setup the led inside the head and let the epoxy cure with reflector in place.


leads soldered


test fit..i did goop up the sides and bottom with some thermal grease,
just didnt grab a pic as my hands were greasy from it and didnt want to
touch the camera.


getting ready to solder to flupic


flupic in place, there's also an aluminum slug and more thermal grease on
the other side of the board for heatsinking. didnt grab a pic before i sealed it.
Board and battery are also spaced away from the led heatsink. no fear of
overheating. there's a lot of mass in a rainier head.


copper nub soldered on + to maintain original height.





Low beam - the low is pretty clean and quite floody. the center spot
is huge.


High Beam - spot is LARGE and clean, spill is very bright...then there's a dark
ring and some more less bright spill. for only being 20mm the ledil-s is
pretty sweet. i'm impressed. Although it looks like a standard hotspot and
spill, it is not..the beam it is still very floody compared to a single die beam.
(there's no blue ring, thats my camera flipping out, SWO tint is on the warm side)


the p7 flupic head also works on the 2AA body.. it's less bright, but it
works just fine. kinda cool running a p7 on 2 AA's.


front shot of 3 modded rainiers. (have a SS w/K2 TFFC and an untouched HAIII too)


my notes...
I'm still learning the flupic..it's my first time using one.
It's not as bright as the Direct driven MC-E Rainier..but plenty bright.
No heat issues as the whole head is basically a heatsink now, the brass
gets warm, but never too hot.
This light could easily be EDC'd as runtime is great utilizing the lower modes.
It's also very weird seeing strobe coming from a peak. lol
The ledil-s boom would be perfect in multiple p7 mags.
buy a lathe.

[MWClint]

ok, i figured out how to use the flupic. Took some playing around, but now i fully understand it.

Somehow, i had gotten into UI2 and didnt get to see the full 2amp max.
I am now in UI1 and have programmed a low low and medium into the flupic.
It is omg insane on max 2amps.

User Interface 1 (3 light modes, no strobe/sos)
User mode 1= Low = set to level 1 (~5 or 6 lumens)
User mode 2 = Medium = set to Level 5 (~130 lumens)
mode 3 = Max

I love the fact that there's no donut in the ledil-s at all.
user mode 1 and 2 are set to approximate the output of the nitecore EX10 low/high levels.

I'm going to put this light into my edc rotation. The bi-flupic can tame the IMR/P7 setup to useable runtimes,
and the Ledil-S gives it a respectable beam.

[easilyled]

Very nice mod.

I have a brass Rainier that was modded to receive a humble SSC-P4 about a year ago.

Yours looks spectacular.

[AFAustin]

Great project and great thread. Thanks for posting all the details, Clint---you are a Peak Magic Man!

[RAGE CAGE]

That is some VERY nice work.......
Heat sink looked impressive..........
How many hours do you figure all that work took?
"a peak with a strobe"....a PEAK fanatic dream of mine.

[PhantomPhoton]

Oh, those are nice.

I'd love to get a setup like that with a neutral tint MC-E and an 18650 tube.
Maybe I'll gather up enough money in a couple months and call up peak.

[MWClint]

Oh, those are nice.

I'd love to get a setup like that with a neutral tint MC-E and an 18650 tube.
Maybe I'll gather up enough money in a couple months and call up peak.

i'd kill for a brass 18650 tube.

I would guess that the dual cr123a tube could be modified for 17670 use, by
just busting out the center wall.. and at the very minimum, use one of the
peak delrin caps tapped out for a Clicky on the tail end. It sounds feasable
enough, I will look into this.


Ran the light on level 5 on a fresh IMR(550mah) - triton charger stops at 4.16v, which is fine by me.
starting voltage 4.16v
after 10 minutes 4.00v
after 20 minutes 3.89v
after 30 minutes 3.78v
after 40 minutes 3.70v
after 45 minutes 3.65v..and stopped the test..another 5 minutes would have dropped it to 3.60v emtpy
the light ran unattended on my desk and the entire light was pretty warm.
held it in my hands for the last 5 minutes and it was just above hand temperature by the end of the testrun.

12minute runtime on max, held it in my hands. it was hot..but not uncomfortable. battery was only warm as its not near the led.
4.16v-3.58v rested it jumped back to 3.61v
i would not want to run it unattended at this level..while doing the test, 12 minutes seems like a decently long time for this light level.

working on level1...it's gonna run for a while. i have 4 hours before i have to leave.
after 1 hour, cell is at 4.09v

[MWClint]

picked up a 1" bi-metal hole saw this morning and
slapped it in the drillpress. 30 seconds later i have a
heatsink.

my first heatsink took 6 hours of using a hacksaw, dremel and a file







it's a hair too wide off drillpress to slide right in the
haIII rainier..which is perfect, i can sand it down a
little and give it a snug fit. i couldnt be happier with
the way it turned out.

[RAGE CAGE]

ok- you have the drill press- when is your CNC lathe being delivered?
Where did you pick up your heatsink stock?

[lumafist]

Awesome pictures...!!

And a great looking mod....

[MWClint]

ok- you have the drill press- when is your CNC lathe being delivered?
Where did you pick up your heatsink stock?

cnc, lol i wish, i'm just looking at some cheap hf lathes, it will be quite a
learning experience. never done any real metal fabrication before

as for the metal stock, bought a bunch of copper plates a few years ago
from www.onlinemetals.com for making cpu waterblocks..had a few plates left
over. i like them becuase they have no required minimum purchase..but that
means they are probably a bit more expensive.

[LED_Thrift]

Great pictures and detail of this really nice project. My Rainier is still my favorite light.

[brighterisbetter]

Looks great, that reflector seems almost tailor made for the Peak.