DIY for Barbolight Bomb-Proof Host with MC-E and McR45 ...

wquiles

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On my last Barbo host project, I used a P7 and a P7 reflector:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/222258


For this one, the owner wanted to use the MC-E, and the very hard to find McGizmo 45mm reflector (McR45):
dscf4853.jpg



As with many of these projects, this is a combination never tried before, so I was not sure how it was going to work until the very end. Lets get started ...

Like before, I need to make a large hole in the head (where the built-in heatsink is located) since the reflector is very deep - in fact, this reflector sits significantly deeper than the P7 I used earlier:
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As you can see here, I still need to cut more, as it is not yet flush with the lens groove:
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Not only do you need to cut in the head, but the reflector itself has to also be trimmed since a good portion resides inside the main body:
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And after many cut-and-tries, it finally fits:
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Now, lets deal with the MC-E. Unlike the P7, the LED and the LED dome are smaller, so I can't use the reflector to center the LED:
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To provide a really good and strong mounting to the heatsink, I decided to use a "star":
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With my new bench pin-vise (thanks to forum member darkzero), I proceeded to solder the emiter in place:
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First clean emiter and star:
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Then apply thermal paste. I am not using epoxy, since the emiter will be soldered at 8 points - that should be enough ;)
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Now that I had the emiter on the star, I started playing with the focus, only to find that it was not focusing well (the McR45 is the best LED reflector I have ever used, but it was not designed for the MC-E!). So I had to raise the emiter, slowly, by trimming from the reflector in light pases - needless to say, this took a LONG time:
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I then cleaned the edge of the main tube for a good electrical contact:
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And then proceeded to create from scratch a new heatsink. Note that in trying to make a simpler assembly, I am no longer using a threaded heatsink. I will be using a press fit heatsink, with a hidden set screw to still guarantee a "bomb proof" design ;)
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I then milled a pocket for the positive contact/spring assembly - can you tell where it comes from?:
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Here is the assembled heatsink/emiter/plug:
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For the positive contact I made a hole all through the heatsink, and for the negative, I threaded a small blind hole:
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Now that I am ready to get the emiter epoxied to the heatsink, I need a way to center it, so I made a delrin centering "adapter":
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Prepare the epoxy:
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get it inside the tube:
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place adapter in place, gently rotating it to get the emiter centered:
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and momentarily apply light pressure to seat the emiter in place:
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Here I am drilling and tapping the body and the emiter, once I figured out the right position inside the body:
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Then solder the wires on top:
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and get the spring ready in the bottom:
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Epoxy the plastic base, spring, and wire in place:
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Apply krapton tape to prevent a short from emiter and reflector:
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Apply a light coat of thermal epoxy to the "plug":
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Apply high-temp silicone to keep the reflector in place:
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And finally put the battery and see if this contraption works!:
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EDIT: just took some beamshots. Fujifilm Finepix S100FS, on tripod, on manual mode (F2.8 @ 2sec), lens set to full wide angle. Both the 18650 cell in the P7 and the A123 in the MC-E are charged.

1) First WQ Barbo Host with P7, then WQ Barbo Host with MC-E/McR45:
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2) First WQ Barbo Host with P7, then WQ Barbo Host with MC-E/McR45:
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3) First WQ Barbo Host with P7, then WQ Barbo Host with MC-E/McR45:
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You can see the P7 reflector giving a wider coverage, but the McR45 has more throw and a narrower beam. You can also barely see a little bit of the donut hole in the McR45 reflector, just like with the older 5W Luxeons, but it is not very noticeable.

Will
 
Last edited:

cryhavok

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Nov 21, 2005
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Orlando, FL
Sweet!!

I wonder how this one compares in throw to your P7 mod...any comments before the beamshots? :popcorn:
 

MWClint

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May 27, 2008
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Albany, NY
Oh my! Beautiful build and pics.
:faint:

The beam on the cut down mcr-45 is impressive!

Whats the current draw on the MC-E a123 combo?
 
Last edited:

cnjl3

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Jan 22, 2006
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Deep in the heart of Texas
Both your P7 and now this MC-E build look just Awesome. You are producing fantastic builds. I find it amusing that both threads are titled as 'DIY' projects but I would guess that most CPF-ers do not own expensive machine shop type lathe & mill. Yes, I am just jealous of your toys and skill level. I really enjoy looking at your step-by-step projects. You make this hobby fun. Keep up the good work.
:thumbsup:

Carlos
 

wquiles

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Thanks guys :eek:


Both your P7 and now this MC-E build look just Awesome. You are producing fantastic builds. I find it amusing that both threads are titled as 'DIY' projects but I would guess that most CPF-ers do not own expensive machine shop type lathe & mill. Yes, I am just jealous of your toys and skill level. I really enjoy looking at your step-by-step projects. You make this hobby fun. Keep up the good work.
:thumbsup:

Carlos

When I started in this hobby and I looked the finished products/projects, I always wondered "how" it was put together. A few people actually posted how they did theirs, and even if I did not had the tools to build them back then, it game me a better appretiation for the time and factors/considerations that the builder took to make his/her project. It also gave me the confidence to say to myself: "You know, I could build something like that as well". That is my motivation to my posts, which have TONS of pictures and step-by-step details as to how I did it.

This particular light took me between 7-8 hours to complete, and I literally spent all day Friday making it (I was on vacation from my day job on Friday). Since I sold my mini-mill a week ago and since my new-to-me knee-mill is not yet running, I had to do all my drilling/tapping the old fashion way - by hand. So except for the lathe, everything else can be duplicated by hand tools, a soldering iron, patience, and attention to detail. Maybe the DIY moniker is a little bit of a stretch, but if you have a lathe that can hold a 2.3" diameter head, you can do it too ;)

And if you don't have a lathe yet, this project is yet another excuse to get one :naughty:

Will
 

SafetyBob

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Oct 20, 2007
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Yukon, Oklahoma
Couldn't help but notice the small fortune of tool post holders you have on the bench. That would certainly help on the old setup problems I have!!

I finally broke down last month and got about 5 more so I don't have to change crap around. Life much easier now...

I will add too, that your pictures are worth a million bucks. Nice to learn techniques from someone else!!

Bob E.
 

Barbarin

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An impressive job, doing it and documenting it.

I'm sure Will is going to have some hosts to play with very soon. We are working on a new reflector for P7's and MC-E's (yes, fits both), a little bit deeper than the previous which will increase lux reading at spot by 50% at least if not 100%.

Javier
 

wquiles

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Ahh - the silicone. The reflector is press-fit to the main tube, but it has a few mills of space between the reflector and the bottom of the head. Using silicone there makes sure that the reflector will not move, plus, when diving, as the lens flexes, the silicon will take a little bit of this movement ;)

Will
 

kuksul08

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Are you really supposed to use thermal paste under the LED between it and the star?

I have read it should only be solder for good heat transfer.
 

cmacclel

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Are you really supposed to use thermal paste under the LED between it and the star?

I have read it should only be solder for good heat transfer.

Many people use thermal paste or epoxy and have had no issues.

Mac
 

wquiles

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Many people use thermal paste or epoxy and have had no issues.

Mac

+1. If you have wave soldering or an oven, yes, soldering to the star would be even better, but we have been successfully using the thermal paste + soldering pins (like I did), or the 2-part thermal epoxy (probably the most common) for many years with outstanding results :D

Will
 

donn_

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Great South Bay, LINY
Ok...this is my new favorite light. Not only is it a great looking host, but Will's build is exquisite! The beam from the McR45 is nothing short of amazing. Within 5' of the wall, it's perfect. Further out, there's a barely noticeable center blur. 45' away, I can't see it at all. I doubt if it'll be visible in actual use outdoors.




(Click to enlarge)

I've run it on the A123 it was designed for, an AW C and a 26670 Emoli. It's brightest on the Emoli, but not enough to put up with the much longer charge time.

Great job, Will! This is a masterpiece!
:twothumbs:bow::twothumbs:bow:
 
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