The Kuukuu Mokume Killer

[PhotonFanatic]

Found lying around the lathe--not sure what this is?





Final version--now dubbed the Kuukuu Mokume Killer--the word kuukuu is Swahili for "old, worn out".

[Morelite]

Looks like copper and ????
I like it and (of course with the 80mA driver and 4 die LED)

[1 what]

It's cute - thats what it is!

[csshih]

oops!
that would be mine.
I left it on your lathe.

[griff]

Timascus ????
Looks COOL

[J Smyth]

Can I play?

[moeman]

Mokume-Gane?!?!?!?!?

I really like that one....

[MWClint]

whoa sweet!

a twisted killer

[PhotonFanatic]

Timascus ????
Looks COOL

You find me a piece of round Timascus and I'd be eternally grateful.

But, no, I stuck the end of it on the grinder and there were no sparks.

[PhotonFanatic]

Looks like copper and ????
I like it and (of course with the 80mA driver and 4 die LED)

Copper and nickel silver, according to the lab that I sent it to for analysis. Wanted to be sure it wasn't carcinogenic. Actually, nickel-silver can be problematic for some people. Maybe I should throw it out?

[TITAN1833]

Copper and nickel silver, according to the lab that I sent it to for analysis. Wanted to be sure it wasn't carcinogenic. Actually, nickel-silver can be problematic for some people. Maybe I should throw it out?

Nooo! don't throw it out it will have to be disposed of safley,send it to me and I can safley dispose of it for you.

Mind you I find that stuff easier to dispose of if you include the 80mA driver and 4 die LED, safety reasons you understand

[Cuso]

Copper and nickel silver, according to the lab that I sent it to for analysis. Wanted to be sure it wasn't carcinogenic. Actually, nickel-silver can be problematic for some people. Maybe I should throw it out?

My trashcan welcomes it , and all other trash coming from your shop..

[moeman]

Well I am certified to handle/dispose of haz-mat/haz-waste. So I could take care of it....

It is very nice. How was it to work with? Is it expensive material?

[PhotonFanatic]

Since it is mostly copper, it cuts like copper, i.e., a bit gummy and grabby at times, especially so with the addition of the nickel silver. But overall, except for the drilling, it wasn't too bad to deal with.

Expensive? Yes, anything hand forged is expensive, regardless of the materials. This particular piece was over $25 an inch, which is about what a 6' bar of 1" diameter aluminum sells for. Let's see that would make a 6' bar worth $1,800--not that one can buy a 6" length of Mokume Gane.

[wvaltakis2]

Sorta looks like we have the same shop fairies, I found a similar "random" piece laying around my lathe

Nice work Fred, I guess it wound up threading ok after all. The pics look great and I'm sure they don't even do it justice, I'm sure there will be even more amazing stuff coming from your direction.

~Chip

[PhotonFanatic]

This is a new, to me, metal combination that requires some sort of etching, or coloring, or perhaps even etching and coloring, to bring out the pattern.

Today I decided to play with a sample of the Mokume Gane, one that I had sanded and polished to a nice, smooth finish. Here are some shots before the etching. One can clearly see the pattern, but the depends a lot on the angle of the light coming off the piece:



The color differences alone are defining the pattern here, for the most part, although this macro seems to show the copper being a smidgen lower than the nickel silver.

After etching, with ferric chloride:





Now the pattern is easier to notice, since the difference in height between the two metals is greater. I'm not sure that I like the difference in height, but I will reserve judgment until I see the alternative: pattern enhancement by the darkening of the copper. My wife liked it--said it looks like jewelry, so that's one endorsement.

[greenLED]

VERY cool! What's up with that crack on the reflector cavity (right side of pic)?

[PhotonFanatic]

Not a crack--just some detritus--after all I did find it lying on my lathe, not known to be the cleanest in the world, unlike Anglepoise's.

This Mokume Gane is top-class, no flaking, no gaps, nothing wrong at all--I'm very pleased with it.

[moeman]

This is a new, to me, metal combination that requires some sort of etching, or coloring, or perhaps even etching and coloring, to bring out the pattern.

Today I decided to play with a sample of the Mokume Gane, one that I had sanded and polished to a nice, smooth finish. Here are some shots before the etching. One can clearly see the pattern, but the depends a lot on the angle of the light coming off the piece:



The color differences alone are defining the pattern here, for the most part, although this macro seems to show the copper being a smidgen lower than the nickel silver.

After etching, with ferric chloride:





Now the pattern is easier to notice, since the difference in height between the two metals is greater. I'm not sure that I like the difference in height, but I will reserve judgment until I see the alternative: pattern enhancement by the darkening of the copper. My wife liked it--said it looks like jewelry, so that's one endorsement.

I like it too. Are you going to try to etch the light? I would like a Killer in this material if the price is not too high.

[PhotonFanatic]

I like it too. Are you going to try to etch the light? I would like a Killer in this material if the price is not too high.

I'm still undecided as to whether the light will be etched, or not. I have to order some chemicals on Monday, which will darken the copper, without etching. Once I can compare the two finishes, then I will decide. Unless something else pops up as an alternative.

As for the price of a Killer in Mokume Gane, it would be well north of the production pieces' pricing, I'm afraid. First, the cost of material is considerably higher, second, it would have to be hand machined, not done on a CNC, and finally, the Mokume Gane calls for a much higher standard of finishing than most lights. Or at least in my book it does.

Today, I spent about an hour just sanding down the four axial grooves on the light. And I still have to do the circumferential grooves, as well as the main surface of the light. And then comes the etching/coloring before final assembly. I would love to be able to make a Killer in Mokume Gane for $200, but it won't happen anytime soon, sorry.

[moeman]

It is still beautiful.
Thanks for the info and pics!

chris

[jch79]

Uhhhh..... How did I miss this? Fred, awesome, awesome, awesome!

What's the OD of the Mokume Gane sample you were messin' around with above?

john

[PhotonFanatic]

Hi John,

The bar was 5/8" diameter, or 15.87mm and was turned down to 14.25mm for the Killer. I have another 5/8" bar on order, and I'm hoping to shoe-horn in a mini FluPic and slightly larger Li-Ion battery in the next one.

First, though is learn how to get a great finish on the material. Whatever happens, it will be coated with some Renaissance wax for protection.

[jch79]

I have another 5/8" bar on order, and I'm hoping to shoe-horn in a mini FluPic and slightly larger Li-Ion battery in the next one.

Wow, only 5/8"?? The amount of detail makes it look like it's at least an inch OD. I imagine the pattern will look really cool length-wise too, not just on the end.

Re: Flupic'd Li-Ion... I think you have my address?

john

[donn_]

Is this true Mokume Gane, or the new XPM version (Extruded Patterned Metals Corp)?

[PhotonFanatic]

This is true hand-forged Mokume, copper and nickel silver. It will be a show piece, only, certainly not for keychain use. I have contacted the XPM folks, but they are primarily geared up for large volume manufacturers, of which, I am not one. With a little luck, I might possibly get some stock from XPM as they are still doing prototype metal combos and might have some that would work for flashlights. We will see.

In the meantime, I've been polishing and waiting for a variety of coloring compounds to arrive, hoping to bring to life the faint patterns that are currently barely visible:










Hey, John, of course I have your number, along with a bunch of others.

[jch79]

It's so beautiful!

[donn_]

It really is beautiful.

Apparently, one of the major players at XPM is a big-time authority on real mokume.

From what I understand, the majority of their production is in tubes, to be cut for rings and other jewelry.

I have some good contacts in the jewelry biz, and I've sent out some feelers for these tubes. Seems like they're ready made for flashlight fab. You'd have to figure out a solid end for the tail, but that shouldn't be too difficult. Plug the tube with platinum, or some such.

[PhotonFanatic]

It really is beautiful.

Apparently, one of the major players at XPM is a big-time authority on real mokume.

From what I understand, the majority of their production is in tubes, to be cut for rings and other jewelry.

I have some good contacts in the jewelry biz, and I've sent out some feelers for these tubes. Seems like they're ready made for flashlight fab. You'd have to figure out a solid end for the tail, but that shouldn't be too difficult. Plug the tube with platinum, or some such.

Actually, both of them are Mokume Gane experts--Steve Midget wrote a book on Mokume Gane, or two, and Jim Binnion is of one of the top jewelers in the U.S., specializing in Mokume Gane.

XPM does do solid extrusions, too. However, a thick walled tube would be perfect--assuming one wants to use a tail switch.

Why don't you ask your jewelry friends to find us a nice round bar of Mokume Gane, with some precious metals in it.

[PhotonFanatic]

A bunch of chemicals came in today, so I wanted to play with them a bit. I was expecting the patinizing to be very easy--little did I know.

So another learning experience as I tried different solutions, techniques, etc.

I like shiny objects, but making Mokume shiny, while still having some sort of patina, is not an easy thing to accomplish, as I'm learning. The problem, of course, is that to get something shiny means it has to be polished, or buffed, but doing that will most likely remove the color that patinizing gives to the copper portion of the Mokume. But, if the Mokume is etched first, then the copper layer is lower than the nickel silver, so theoretically, it might be possible to polish the nickel silver while leaving the copper patina untouched.

So, that's what I've tried to do, as these photos show. What the patina really adds, though, is the instant impression of holding an antique in your hands. And, generally speaking, there aren't a lot of shiny metal antiques kicking around. Maybe I will go for the subdued, non-shiny look after all.







Your feedback would be appreciated.