CNC XPE bike light

[ktronik]

A few shots of our CNC XPE bike light.



Specs:

630lm out the front

R2 XPE LEDs driven by a blfex driver.

so here is a mock up of how it all goes together, it should be super quick to build, & can be fully pulled apart to swap / upgrade parts if needed. not shown is the bar clamp, its still being made...



Driver goes in (sits on top of a o-ring)



Driver holder goes in



Rear cap, pushes on the driver holder. Rear cap will have a cable gland coming out of it & the bflex onboard warning LED will glow through this.



Rear cover screw on, sealed by 1 o-ring & waterproof grease on sides of rear cap.



LED pcb drop in



Optic, o-ring, glass or lexan lens, o-ring & front bezel





feeler removed

[imageicon]

how are the production coming along?

[ktronik]

how are the production coming along?

Slowly, ETA end of may...sorry guys, but its quite a big run I am doing...

Worth the wait I feel...

K

[ktronik]

Testing is going well, thought I would tell you guys of some ideas I have been playing with...

Flight deck Remote switch for light:

The flightdeck wire kit has 4 micro wires on the premade switch... not really solderable & too small to be strong...

good news I have found a switch that will fit really well into the removable blank cover plate (that sits where the flightdeck remote goes) that is all ready on my lever, so on my bike, I will have a nice tactile switch on the STI road lever, on the same string, I will add another on the tops of the bar, just before it plugs into the light...so remote on the tops & @ the lever, both a have a great 'snap' action we need...

K

[LEDAdd1ct]

I *love* a nice tactile switch!

[yellow]

OT:
how does the brightness of the cold white compares to the one of the warm white MC-Es?

Do the warm make a nicer light?

[ktronik]

OT:
how does the brightness of the cold white compares to the one of the warm white MC-Es?

Do the warm make a nicer light?

Hey Yellow, have a look @ the tints on this post, I have mixed 3 different tints to get a better overall colour retention & I must say I do really like it...but you would get less lumen out the front...

EX of MC-E tint/Lm:

Multichip Bin : MCE4WT-A2-0000-000M01 Cool white, 430 min lumens, WH Tint
Multichip Bin : MCE4WT-A2-5C0-K0-0-00001 370 min Lumens Neutral White
Multichip Bin : MCE4WT-A2-6C0-J0-0-00001 Warm white, 320 min lumens, E6

Difference in brightness is 110lm for the warmest & coolest, thats the output of a nightrider minewt just there...everyone is different, some have to have the raw output, but for the OZ bush, lots of browns ect, I do prefer the warmer tints...but on the black road it may not matter much...

I think the key is to have a mix of tints, thus not to loose to much of your raw output, & for my ~1000lm dynamo light a 100lm here or there was no issue...

On the newer XPE triple light, cutter is looking in to getting some custom boards going with one LED that has a warmer tint, for future runs...

Best of both worlds for the bush...here in OZ anyway...

K

[ICUDoc]

PM sent!

[Brum]

Any updates on the housing?

[ktronik]

Sorry for the delay guys, got to get the cutter order out first, you guys are next so 2-3 weeks...

will be worth the wait, we have gone over-board to make it fully dunk proof, glad I did as I went for a swim in a river last night, err on my bike...

Working on a new dynamo circuit as well, more on that soon, my plan is to have battery & dynamo circuit fully dunk proof as well, so if I choose to go for another swim on a cold & rainy night, I won't short my electronics / battery...thus making it home to tell the tail...

you guy in NZ will get most use of this 'over-building', lots of rivers to cross on the AV MTB ride...

Best

Ktronik