What parts to use and where to get them.

[Packhorse]

This will be a work in progress. Please post your source for parts including links and I will add them to this post. Hopefully it will be made a sticky.
I may ask for your post to be deleted after the relevant information has been added to the list.

If you want to have a more in depth discussion on any individual part please start a new thread so we can keep this one tidy.


Glands. I use IP68-10bar M16 thread where I can. most IP68 are only 1 meter rated (although I have used them too with no issues).

• Jaycar
• McMaster Carr
• Electrical wholesalers
• Battery Space

Cable I use silicon or rubber jacketed extension lead. I find it grips better in the glands than PVC.

• Electrical wholesalers

Switches I prefer reed switches but if you use a toggle then you need a rubber boot. Jaycar sell a waterproof switch with a boot but you can use a normal switch with a boot too.

• Jaycar
• Diverite express
• Marine suppliers
• McMaster Carr

Latches. Ones with a safety catch means it will not open by accident at the worst possible time!

• RS components
• Diverite express
• McMaster Carr

Lenses Glass, acrylic & plexiglass. They all have advantages. Make sure you use one strong enough for the depths you intend to dive. This is usually the weakest part of a light head.

• Plastic merchant
• Glazier
• Dealextreme
• McMastercar

Batteries and battery packs. If you make your own packs you will need to add protection circuits poly switches thermal cut outs etc.

• Dealextreme
• Batteryspace

Pre made Cannisters


Pre made light heads

[Packhorse]

Reserved

[Greta]

This thread has been restored for use. I will start another thread in this forum with an explaination and the "rules". Thank you for your patience and understanding while we worked this out...

[Packhorse]

Anyone know where to get the AGRO brand glands from at a reasonable price? I have seen them at dive Rite Express for $16.00us.

[falerum]

Here

http://www.oxycheq.com/download/DIY_Parts.pdf

//Mike

[Randy956]

Salvo uses a rubber cover with a 5/8 nut over a the switch on their 9 amp canister.

Do any of you know the McMaster Carr PN for both the switch and boot?

Thank you,

Randy

[captain smiley]

forgive me for my ignorance, but what would be a suitable toggle or other panel mount switch to use in a dive light, I don't intend to take it very deep, 25 feet max, I don't dive, I snorkel, and a light to look in between boulders and such might be handy, plus it would be nice to have an entirely water-tight lantern.

I've looked around and I've seen a lot of toggles with boots and ones encased in resin or plastic but I'm unsure if they can take any pressure.

please someone point me towards a suitable switch, thanks for any help

[wquiles]

You have two basic options:

1) Mechanical switch:
This book has excellent recommendations, and covers every aspect, including the switch and the boot so use:
http://www.airspeedpress.com/newlitebook.html

As part of my recent repair project (see my signature) I had to also replace the switch and the boot on the canister's lid. I am at work so I don't have my copy of Steve's book with me, but if you need to I can get you some part numbers from McMaster-Carr based on Steve's recommendations.


2) Reed switch - basically a non-contact water-tight switch
Here forum member Packhorse probably has the most experience, so he should be able to give you advice on how/what to get.

Will

[wquiles]

The Switch is the "Standard DS116". It is a basic 10A switch, 15/32" (12mm) stem, available at most electric and auto stores.

The matching boot is McMaster-Carr #70205K4

Will

[captain smiley]

wow, I read the whole project, what a great light, and I like that led, from the beam shots I would think it was an incan, they have really improving them in the past few years, thanks for your help, I will probably just good a good quality boot and encase one of the dozens of toggles laying around the house in some silicone for protection against boot failure, as I said I will not be taking it very deep so this should be more than suitable for my needs.

[wquiles]

Thank you

That LED "looks" a little bit like an incandescent because it is a "warm white" LED. The more "typical" LED is the cool white LED, and tends to be more bluish, which depending on the object being lit, it might or might not look "real". Where you can really tell is when outdoors and trying to shine light on vegetation - you "know" how it should look like under the Sun, so when you use a cool white LED, the colors don't look right.

On these beamshots, I can show more of what I mean that LED's sometimes not giving you the right tint. The first light is a well-driven incandescent light, the second one is the cool white LED:

Beamshot #1 – Pointing to a group of trees across the street:
- Surefire M6 with Regulated HDM6 LiIon pack – MN21 bulb


- Cool White LED




Beamshot #2 – Pointing down the street, so that you can see more of the sidebeam:
- Surefire M6 with Regulated HDM6 LiIon pack – MN21 bulb


- Cool White LED



Now a days, I prefer the warm white LED tints, and try to use them in my LED projects whenever possible, but I still do quite a bit of projects with the standard cool white LED's and owners are always happy with the results, so keep in mind that this is entirely subjective. In fact I would say that most here in the forums do like the blue tint of the LED's. So don't take my personal point of view as anything more than just my opinion.

Will

[350xfire]

Pack:
I would like to add my name under complete canisters. I can do them out of Delrin fully machined with cable gland, switch, boot etc..
I can build the canister all the way up to turn key canister light system.
I use LED, HID...
Here is my work. These will soon be available with anodized heads and CNC machined parts.
http://www.cavediver.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11611

Thanks
Hector

[Codiak]

Should there be sections for Emitters, drivers and heatsinks?
If so,
Emitters: Photonfanatic.com
Heatsinks: Britelumens.com
Drivers: taskled.com

Please add
Glands: www.alliedelec.com

Switches:
(Piezo) www.alliedelec.com
(Reed) www.alliedelec.com

[Codiak]

Anyone have a good fast supplier of Cree MCE stars?

[wquiles]

Anyone have a good fast supplier of Cree MCE stars?

This is how I ordered mine:

Amy Falzone
Sales & Marketing
LED Lighting Supply Company, LLC
1004 Bay Tree Lane
Duluth, Georgia 30097
Tele-770-622-0672
Fax-770-783-8097

Amy@LEDLightingSupply.com
www.LEDLightingSupply.com

[Codiak]

This is how I ordered mine:

Amy Falzone
Sales & Marketing
LED Lighting Supply Company, LLC
1004 Bay Tree Lane
Duluth, Georgia 30097
Tele-770-622-0672
Fax-770-783-8097

Amy@LEDLightingSupply.com
www.LEDLightingSupply.com

Thanks, the URL isn't working for me.

I'll try the email addy anyways.

[VegasF6]

This is how I ordered mine:

Amy Falzone
Sales & Marketing
LED Lighting Supply Company, LLC
1004 Bay Tree Lane
Duluth, Georgia 30097
Tele-770-622-0672
Fax-770-783-8097

Amy@LEDLightingSupply.com
www.LEDLightingSupply.com

Stumbled on this through a google search. I have been unable to acces ledlightingsupply for about 2 weeks now. Anyone else have any luck?

Hmm, phone is disconnected as well. Will, it looks like you were there last customer. What the heck did you do?

[350xfire]

Anyone have a good fast supplier of Cree MCE stars?

Cutter Electronics. You can order any bin, any configuration, any type of board. They are in Australia so give 2 weeks or so to deliver.

For speed http://ledsupply.com/ but $25-30 each

[aquaant03]

Hi,
I have a Greenforec 100w HID head that I am looking to convert to a good usable LED equivalent.
Can anyone give me any idea's and of where to get the bits from, or even do it for me?
I live in the UK.

Tony

[jspeybro]

Hi,
I have a Greenforec 100w HID head that I am looking to convert to a good usable LED equivalent.
Can anyone give me any idea's and of where to get the bits from, or even do it for me?
I live in the UK.

Tony

I think it would be better to start a separate thread for this. It will help keep the forum readable and you have a thread dedicated to your project .

[lil_mac]

I was wondering if we could get a little more specific on the items. Could anyone please tell what the Mccmaster part #’s are for the toggle switch and boot? There are a lot of options in the book. Thanks



Switch:
Boot:
Cable gland: 69915K61 $3.10ea
Latches: 1794A43 $7.38ea
Locking Latches: 1794A55 $11.18

[lucca brassi]

moved

[baywatch106]

Any working links for the Agro Glands?

[lucca brassi]

moved

[gav6280]

Links to GLASS small diammater + low focal length Aspheric lenses?

15mm ish diammater would be nice....

[b-bassett]

thought id add this here to help others in their search for prolonged piezo switches

avaliable at Farnell
schurter prolonged piezo switch with leads Pn: 1241.2434.8

[Skinah]

Any working links for the Agro Glands?

http://www.pcmus.com/Dive-Lights.htm
scroll down and the glands are listed half way down the page.

[350xfire]

http://tlslights.com/parts.php