Dive switches

[clint357]

I just made my first dive light using a single P7 and external battery pack....blah,blah,blah, I'll post pics later. I used a toggle switch with a waterproof boot but it just doesn't seem reliable for some reason. What are the best switches to use on dive lights. The smaller, the better for my application.

[Packhorse]

Reed switches are my preference.

[clint357]

Reed switches are my preference.

What type of setup do you prefer, or in what manner do you move the magnet over the switch?

[steve6690]

If you're set on a toggle switch, I use Salvo switches & boots and they are quite robust. If you can use a reed switch though, the benefits are obvious. I'd use a reed switch wherever I could.

[wes_wall]

Reed switch with a solid state relay is the way to go.

What do you call people who use prop@#@!$%^ for birth control?

Parents

Think about your little rubber doohickey on the toggle switch. It is not a question of 'if' but when it will fail. I know, they say "you should replace them on a regular basis." Define "regular." There is too much at risk to to play around with it. Moreover, I am an electrical buffoon. If I can make the reed switch work, you can too.

I think the trick is making the trigger (the outside part) lock in the proper position, and not flop around. I use a stainless ball and detent plunger arrangement with the detent in the canister lid. This requires no penetration of the canister, and no possibility of a leak.

[DM51]

There have been one or two threads mentioning Hall Effect switches.

Here also is a wikipedia entry.

[jtivat]

Reed switch with a solid state relay is the way to go.

What do you call people who use prop@#@!$%^ for birth control?

Parents

Think about your little rubber doohickey on the toggle switch. It is not a question of 'if' but when it will fail. I know, they say "you should replace them on a regular basis." Define "regular." There is too much at risk to to play around with it. Moreover, I am an electrical buffoon. If I can make the reed switch work, you can too.

I think the trick is making the trigger (the outside part) lock in the proper position, and not flop around. I use a stainless ball and detent plunger arrangement with the detent in the canister lid. This requires no penetration of the canister, and no possibility of a leak.

None of the large can light makers are using them there must be a reason??

[johnnyryan]

Cheers. Glad someone else has tried successfully. I'm just concerned about the thickness of the aluminium torch head and if the mag can make the reed pull. I suppose I'll just have to wait and see!! Do u find the MOSFET overheats at all??

[johnnyryan]

It's a mystery how I didn't see that post........duh. Sorry!!!

[baywatch106]

How about some pictures the reed switch set up? I mean the whole setup. It seems that everyone has a different method to set up reed switch.

[johnnyryan]

I'll have the pics up when I get the parts. Currently waiting on the reed, MOSFET, glands and mag.
I'll post when I have it done.

[350xfire]

For $10-12 plus shipping, why bother with reed and MOSFET when Taskled has already done it for you?

[johnnyryan]

Stuck for space as it's all going in the lamphead. Can they switch 4-5A??

[georges80]

Stuck for space as it's all going in the lamphead. Can they switch 4-5A??

Only 4-5A

The hallsw/halltg boards are quite compact, if you can't fit one, then you'll be pushing you luck to fit a reed & FET etc etc....

cheers,
george.

[johnnyryan]

Btw I'm switching a 50w halogen....