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Thread: Dive switches

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  1. #1
    Flashaholic
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    Default Dive switches

    I just made my first dive light using a single P7 and external battery pack....blah,blah,blah, I'll post pics later. I used a toggle switch with a waterproof boot but it just doesn't seem reliable for some reason. What are the best switches to use on dive lights. The smaller, the better for my application.

  2. #2
    Flashaholic* Packhorse's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dive switches

    Reed switches are my preference.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Dive switches

    Quote Originally Posted by Packhorse View Post
    Reed switches are my preference.
    What type of setup do you prefer, or in what manner do you move the magnet over the switch?

  4. #4
    Flashaholic
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    Default Re: Dive switches

    If you're set on a toggle switch, I use Salvo switches & boots and they are quite robust. If you can use a reed switch though, the benefits are obvious. I'd use a reed switch wherever I could.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Dive switches

    Reed switch with a solid state relay is the way to go.

    What do you call people who use prop@#@!$%^ for birth control?

    Parents

    Think about your little rubber doohickey on the toggle switch. It is not a question of 'if' but when it will fail. I know, they say "you should replace them on a regular basis." Define "regular." There is too much at risk to to play around with it. Moreover, I am an electrical buffoon. If I can make the reed switch work, you can too.

    I think the trick is making the trigger (the outside part) lock in the proper position, and not flop around. I use a stainless ball and detent plunger arrangement with the detent in the canister lid. This requires no penetration of the canister, and no possibility of a leak.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Dive switches

    There have been one or two threads mentioning Hall Effect switches.

    Here also is a wikipedia entry.
    Resistance is futile...

  7. #7
    Flashaholic* jtivat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dive switches

    Quote Originally Posted by wes_wall View Post
    Reed switch with a solid state relay is the way to go.

    What do you call people who use prop@#@!$%^ for birth control?

    Parents

    Think about your little rubber doohickey on the toggle switch. It is not a question of 'if' but when it will fail. I know, they say "you should replace them on a regular basis." Define "regular." There is too much at risk to to play around with it. Moreover, I am an electrical buffoon. If I can make the reed switch work, you can too.

    I think the trick is making the trigger (the outside part) lock in the proper position, and not flop around. I use a stainless ball and detent plunger arrangement with the detent in the canister lid. This requires no penetration of the canister, and no possibility of a leak.
    None of the large can light makers are using them there must be a reason??
    JT

  8. #8

    Default

    Cheers. Glad someone else has tried successfully. I'm just concerned about the thickness of the aluminium torch head and if the mag can make the reed pull. I suppose I'll just have to wait and see!! Do u find the MOSFET overheats at all??

  9. #9

    Default

    It's a mystery how I didn't see that post........duh. Sorry!!!

  10. #10

    Default Re: Dive switches

    How about some pictures the reed switch set up? I mean the whole setup. It seems that everyone has a different method to set up reed switch.
    Any man that gives up essential freedom and liberty for temporary safety neither deserves liberty or safety.

  11. #11

    Default

    I'll have the pics up when I get the parts. Currently waiting on the reed, MOSFET, glands and mag.
    I'll post when I have it done.

  12. #12
    Flashaholic* 350xfire's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dive switches

    For $10-12 plus shipping, why bother with reed and MOSFET when Taskled has already done it for you?
    http://tlslights.com/ your source for quality affordable dive lights, Mag-lite conversions and weapon lights. Now a Federal Firearms Dealer.

  13. #13

    Default

    Stuck for space as it's all going in the lamphead. Can they switch 4-5A??

  14. #14
    Flashaholic* georges80's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dive switches

    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyryan View Post
    Stuck for space as it's all going in the lamphead. Can they switch 4-5A??
    Only 4-5A

    The hallsw/halltg boards are quite compact, if you can't fit one, then you'll be pushing you luck to fit a reed & FET etc etc....

    cheers,
    george.
    LED drivers www.TaskLED.com
    I hate PM - so email me - info is in my profile.

  15. #15

    Default

    Btw I'm switching a 50w halogen....

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