You guys have corrupted me

Arrkhal

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
9
I haven't even lurked here that long and just joined the main forum today and this is my first post, and I've already lost my sanity. Great. :nana: I kept telling myself that as long as I stick to only watching for killer deals on the marketplace, If'd buy less.

So anyway, I bought a Magcharger with a TerraLUX TLE-300MR already installed, on the marketplace (thanks, wacbzz!). It just went in the mail today, and I'm already thinking about batteries!

At this point, it's down to either sticking with the stock stuff, or a 9AA to 3D adapter and Sanyo eneloops.

I've already ruled out a 3500 mAh NiMH drop-in pack, as that'd be more of a step sideways than an actual upgrade. I don't see myself using something so bright for more than a few minutes at a time, more than a few times per week. I'm also not planning on obsessively charging it every couple days. It can expect to be charged when it gets dim, and when I feel like it. With that kind of usage, the ~26% greater capacity (assuming the NiMH cells lose about 10% of their capacity under a 2 amp load, and that the stock NiCds are 2500 mAh) would most likely have self-discharged away by the time it dies. And I'm really not concerned about the "memory effect."

Eneloops, on the other hand, have better self-discharge than NiCds, and also hold up extremely well under moderate currents. Which wouldn't even be necessary, since the light would only draw about 1.1 amps on average. 10.8 nominal volts, and call it 1850 mAh per cell at 1.1 A, give a 33% increase in Wh, on paper. I theorize that the TerraLUX unit should also regulate better as 6v is on the lower end of its rating, and the batteries should be more efficient, as even NiCds will drop their voltages as current increases (thus causing current to increase more, voltage to drop further, etc., with a regulated light). This may result in a little more runtime than the on-paper watt-hour figures suggest.

I'd also be just fine with leaving the diode in and wiring a different trickle charger into the cradle. I'm sure I could find some old 10.8V, ~150-200 mA trickle charger on Ebay or wherever, for an old RC model or airsoft or something. Like I said, intermittent use, so fast/quick/rapid/turbo charging isn't a priority. I'm sure the batteries can tolerate a few excess hours of .1C, and there's no point in getting LSDs if putting the flashlight on top of something metal can make it lose all its juice in a week.

Main issue, aside from cost, would be the physical properties of the battery pack. About how much does a fivemega adapter weigh, and how mechanically robust are they? I mean, the entire point of getting a Maglite over something more "modern" is its dual function as both a light source and a head-knocker. If by some chance it should come down to that, a short-circuit in the battery pack would just make a bad day a great deal worse.

As for the cost, it's up to me as to whether it's worth doubling the price of the light, to increase runtime and decrease self-discharge.

Opinions, alternatives, I-don't-knows?
 

Chrontius

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 11, 2007
Messages
2,150
Location
Orlando, FL
In my humble experience, Eneloops actually hold closer to 2100 mAh per cell, under four-amp loads. This is based on the charger-analyzer functions provided by my LaCrosse BC-900 smart-charger.
 

mr.snakeman

Enlightened
Joined
May 17, 2008
Messages
592
Location
Stockholm, Sweden
Hi Arrkhal,
Welcome to the CPF forums. For a first-time poster you seem to have a lot of knowledge that I´m sure, in time, will be a great asset to all here. Again, welcome to CPF (I wish I could help you on your quest-good luck).
 

mdocod

Flashaholic
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Messages
7,544
Location
COLORado spRINGs
Wow....

Welcome to CPF!!!

Great start!

You have thought all this through and certainly done your research. I'm totally 100% impressed. Screw asking questions man, start answering a few round here for us!! :twotumbs:

FM packs are built really well overall and there are literally hundreds if not thousands of satisfied FM product owners here on CPF to back that up. They include a charging jack that wouldn't really be put to good use in a mag-charger if you are planning on using a cradle charger for it. There have been a few reports of short circuit problems on the FM packs which is directly linked to that charging jack design. The absolute peak of a reliable pack build would be to have a welded glued and shrink-wrapped pack assembled. This has it's ups and downs as well, as cells aren't easily replaceable if one goes bad. There's this pizza delivery driver who makes battery adapters that look kinda weird and can't short out and have very low resistance......... :whistle:
 

Arrkhal

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
9
Hi Arrkhal,
Welcome to the CPF forums. For a first-time poster you seem to have a lot of knowledge that I´m sure, in time, will be a great asset to all here. Again, welcome to CPF (I wish I could help you on your quest-good luck).

Wow....

Welcome to CPF!!!

Great start!

You have thought all this through and certainly done your research. I'm totally 100% impressed. Screw asking questions man, start answering a few round here for us!! :twotumbs:

Nah, all I have is a community college degree. :nana: I've just been thoroughly corrupted in my very short time lurking here. Thanks for the welcome, guys.

They include a charging jack that wouldn't really be put to good use in a mag-charger if you are planning on using a cradle charger for it. There have been a few reports of short circuit problems on the FM packs which is directly linked to that charging jack design.

Kinda what I figured, though I was hoping it'd be all solid state or something. Maglites are very hard to beat (literally) when it comes to mechanical reliability, and I'd hate to compromise that any more than necessary.

There's this pizza delivery driver who makes battery adapters that look kinda weird and can't short out and have very low resistance

How'd I miss those? I thought I put just about every possible logical string in the search thingie. I believe I shall inquire through the appropriate channels. ;)

Really think I'm leaning towards a 9AA setup. Higher voltage, lower current, more watt-hours, and everyone's happy.

Oh, yeah, forgot to put in my original post, seems like a UCL lens (that L better not stand for Lens! Their website doesn't appear to say what "UCL lens" means, but I somehow get the feeling it's Ultra Clear Lens lens...) is a no-brainer cheap upgrade, which I'll order as soon as I determine which thickness fits with the TerraLUX. Also seems like the 2.84mm thick one may be a quick, dirty, and easy fix for the rattling lens problem that some people have with the 4-6D model. And there's no downside. 5% more light for less than $10 shipped? Yes, please! :D Maybe I should suggest that over in the LED forum; seems to be a common-ish problem with those things.
 

VidPro

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 7, 2004
Messages
5,441
Location
Lost In Space
there is a downside to the UCLs i bought, they broke like quartz , very easily. awesomly clear , much more breakable.
hey i barely dropped it, it, wasnt my fault :grin2: so now i have a spare.
 
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Arrkhal

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
9
Come to think of it, maybe glass isn't a great idea with that center post thing. So, to prevent anyone from pointing that out, I will distract them with flashlight porn!

serbulight-sm.jpg


Heavy, bulky, powerful. It may be outclassed by smaller, lighter models, but there's still a certain je ne sais quoi to brute force effectiveness over elegance and efficiency. :D (darn grainy photos. Sanyo may make great batteries, but this camera leaves something to be desired)

And now I'm trying to think of a cheap way of making it drop-resistant with glass... hm, already has 3 screws, that's convenient... some kinda brackets that brace against the very edges of the lens, on the sealing ring...

Update: I tried a runtime test, still on the stock battery. Initial charge, 6.9 volts. Dunno how many cycles on the battery. My untrained eye didn't notice any dimming until the 78 minute mark, so I'm guessing it actually started dimming around 50-60 minutes. It fell pretty fast after 78 minutes. At 99 minutes, the beam intensity was about equal to a 3D MagLED with partly used alkalines. Still putting out maybe twice as much total light according to the ceiling test, and still 100% usable for anything indoors. Checked the batteries at that point with a really crappy DMM, which said 5.59 volts, so it does appear to fall out of regulation pretty quickly once it's getting less than 6 volts. I'm tempted to see how much longer it takes to run down to 5.0 volts.
 
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Turbo DV8

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
1,464
Location
Silicon Valley
In my humble experience, Eneloops actually hold closer to 2100 mAh per cell, under four-amp loads. This is based on the charger-analyzer functions provided by my LaCrosse BC-900 smart-charger.

You have a BC-900 that can put a four amp discharge load on the cells?:confused:
 

Chrontius

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 11, 2007
Messages
2,150
Location
Orlando, FL
No, that was cells drained by the ROP-Hi, and recharged by the BC-900 with an average of 2100 mAh needed to fill each cell.
 

Arrkhal

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
9
Just finished a 9xAA runtime test (I ended up going the expensive route).

With the stock 6V, it started dimming around, I'm going to call it 45-50 minutes. I then spent about a half hour going "is it dimming? I'm not sure! I can't tell! Is it dimming?" At T+78 minutes, output started to fall more noticably, and at T+99 minutes, the beam was of equal intensity to a 3D MagLED with half-gone alkalines, and the beam dialed large, to just before the dim spot in the center appears. About 2-3 times the total output, but the same candlepower. At that point, the battery was 5.59 volts. I ran it out to T+160 minutes, and output barely fell slowly over that time until the total lumens were about on par with the 3D MagLED, going by the ceiling test. The batteries were 4.26 V (oops), but voltage quickly rose back to 5.4 V and held steady, after it was removed.

With the 9xAA, I used 9 Eneloops. 8 of them were dated 08-09 and were 1.314 V out of the package, 1 was dated 08-06 and was giving 1.285 V. All 9 were charged in the Eneloop smart charger until the light went off, then allowed to settle for a couple hours. The pack was reading 12.78 V when it was put in for the test.

The light started out at full tilt, then dimmed by maybe 20% as it heated up, like before. It ran at a continuous output until T+99 minutes. This time I was paying closer attention, and going by a more definite test (black text on a green background, and whether I could read it at a certain distance, with the light pointed at the ceiling from a particular distance away. No drop whatsoever until T+99. Past that, however, the light output dropped like a stone, and by T+102, the beam intensity was equal to the MagLED again. The battery pack read 9.5 V when it was taken out, but I was a bit slow, so it may have been as low as 9 V or less. Seems to be holding steady now at 10.52 V.

So it looks like I was right about the higher voltage pack extending the full brightness runtime, by regulating better. This unit at least, falls out of regulation very quickly when voltage drops below 6.0 V, so it definitely can't regulate as low as 4.5-5.0 volts, as I've seen some people say. This particular one.

Total runtime down to an arbitrary standard (same candlepower as a 3D MagLED) was very very similar, but the 9AA was at full brightness for right around twice as long.

Definitely a worthwhile and easy upgrade for a Magcharger with the TLE-300 drop-in.

I think my next "upgrade" will be to put about 3 ounces of lead in the tailcap, in place of the spare bulb. :devil: That should make up for the fact that the 9AA pack is 3.5 oz. lighter than the stock 5 x 1/2D pack.

Oh, and the stock charger, with the stock 12 V wallwart, can only put out about 11.8 volts. At least mine can. However, an 18 V or so wallwart should be an easy solution, as the charger circuitry appears to do nothing but limit current to 220 mA. Monitor the voltage across the rings and pull the plug when it hits 14.0-14.1 V, and it should work fine (from measuring ring voltage compared to actual battery voltage, there seems to be a .9 V difference in this particular light, and Eneloops seem to reach a peak voltage of 1.48 before dropping to 1.45 V, at which point the Eneloop-branded smart charger turns off).

Actually, if you could find a 14 V wallwart with an output actually right at 14 V, or if you can cobble together a simple voltage-regulation circuit, it'd be quite possible to turn the cradle into a pseudo-smart charger that only charges them up to 90% or so. With the stock stuff, it reaches 11.8 V and then the LED turns off, as it's no longer able to drive any current through the battery. The amps would be a mere trickle as the battery approaches full capacity, but if you're not in a hurry, that's no problem. With some trial and error, you could figure out the exact voltage to make it so the LED turns off when the pack reaches ~13 V. Don't think that'd give you a 100% charge, but it'd be simple, easy, convenient, and impossible to hurt the batteries by overcharging them.
 
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Trashman

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 15, 2005
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3,544
Location
Covina, California
You totally scored on the Mag Charger w/droppin. That was easiliy the best package deal on one of those that I've ever seen. It still sort of bugs me that I didn't swoop on that, too, but I had to set my limits!
 

Chrontius

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 11, 2007
Messages
2,150
Location
Orlando, FL
Holy crap. That's easily the best analysis in one place of the Magcharger's charger, and potential use thereof. Now I want one to play with, too. :D
 
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