I keep getting offered led conversions or reflectors of the l4 (smaller model).
I have an old, old four 4 cell Underwater Kinetics canon that I want to preserve. It was a gift from a friend who doesn't dive anymore, so I don't know how long the bulb will do me.
I have many other lights, but my girlfriend is partial to diving with this one, 'because it's easy' to use.
Please, any infor on a replacement (halogen?) bulb for a uk400 4D
Is it a screw in or bayonet bulb? 6 volts right? (4x1.5v=6) Are there any markings on the bulb on the metal part?
I'll tell you what I would do: I would stuff it full of batteries, 18650s and replace the reflector with a heat sink with 6 leds on it. Use some great driver that is either boost or buck depending on the batteries you can stuff in there.
I wounder what others think about this idea. Note: it is a plastic housing.
I started designing an "insert" for my UK1200. Almost exactly as described above. I got distracted, and never finished it. I think think the reflector/switch insert is the same envelope as your light. You are welcome to the drawing.
Something exactly like that! What driver did you use? Batteries?
I am using 8 x 10,000ma/h NiMh "D" cell batteries, and a maxflex 2 driver.
I used the original circuit board and switch, and mounted the leds, driver, and small momentary switch (for programming), to the heatsink.
The reflector was cut so that there was room for the leds and reflectors to poke out.
Looks a little rough, but works a dream.
If I could get my hands on a lathe, I would do something similar but all in aluminium and with 6 x aspherics
Last edited by spearsniper; 05-07-2009 at 11:28 PM.
In this case, I was actually just wondering about a simple replacement bulb.
I was hoping this was an obvious request but it seems it isn't.
I don't know if it's screw or bi-pin for the UK400 4D halogen, the bulb/reflector/circuitry is all one unit, will have to take it apart to see.
Bi-pin bulb, that can be sourced from most dive stores.
To install, just remove the front lens to get access to the reflector assembly, pull the bulb out, and jam the new one in.
When putting the new bulb in, be sure not to touch the bulb with bare fingers - use a cloth or the likes to stop oil from your skin getting on the glass.
Thank-you, I hadn't pulled on it b/c it still works and didn't want to break only bulb (I recieved this as 2nd hand gift from friend who no-longer dives. apparently the backup-bulb usually stored in reflector had already been used). Any idea who makes them though? re: sourced from most dive stores - not the case from my lds anyway. It's an older model.
honestly, I think the problem was I had been searching for "D4 UK halogen / underwater kinetics d-cell 4 halogen ... / " etc.
And I kept coming up with reflectors for the sl's and the c's and sunlights...
Thank-you for finding the illusive obvious for me. I had been looking in all the wrong places.
I've just picked up an old UK1200, and I'm very tempted to mod it like yours to give it a bit more oomph. What sort of runtimes are you getting from yours? Those 10,000 mAh batteries aren't cheap, so if I could get a decent amount of use out of a lower capacity battery that would really cut the cost!
Also, do you have any more pictures of the build? Particularly the heatsink, is it just an aluminium disc, or is it finned?
The runtime with the 10,000mA/h cells is around 3 1/4 hours, so you could easily get away with something with a little less capacity.
The heaksink is a finned model, originally from a hi-fi amplifier. A big solid lump of Aluminium would probably work just as well. Some of the bigger CPU heatsinks for a PC may also do the job.
I reused the original circuit board and switch, but unsoldered the bulb holder. In it's place, I soldered wires to go to the maxflex driver. I had to put a layer of insulater (rubber sheet in my case) between the exposed tracks on the circuit board, and the bottom of heatsink - just to make sure nothing shorted out.
The maxflex driver is glued with thermal epoxy to one of the fins of the heatsink.
The small momentary switch is just pushed between 2 fins on the heatsink - not really mounted at all .
The amount of rubber used between the circuit board and the bottom of the heatsink, is what stops the heatsink moving around, and allowed for a little adjustment when required. A bit rough I know, but at the end of the day it works really well.
To program the driver, I just soldered wires to the battery side of the circuit board, and attached them to my 12V car battery. Programming with the light engine in the torch housing was a little tricky. I set the driver to give 1000mA (350, 700, and 1200mA/h were other options), and turn on at full power when power is applied. This allows for the use of the existing switch.
Last edited by spearsniper; 05-12-2009 at 09:39 PM.
Reason: Add image
That's brilliant, cheers! I've started to gather some parts for my build now, I'm planning to do something very similar to yours.
Rather than having the momentary switch like you have though, I might try using a small reed switch which I can activate externally with a small magnet sewn into my gloves, then I could adjust the power to conserve battery life.
I don't suppose you know of any drivers that would perform the same job as the maxflex, or anywhere that has the maxflex in stock? I could get it from Cutter, but including shipping to the UK it would cost 86AUD!
Great idea with the reed switch. You will get the full benefit of the driver that way.
I ended up getting the maxflex from Cutter, as it was just easiest driver for what I was doing. Bit pricey, but I think it is worth it for all of the functions you can set - low voltage warning, over temp current reduction, drive current, and the list goes on.
Thought I'd do a quick outdoor beamshot of the 6 x Q5 modified UK1200 compared to an aspheric M@g with a KD Cree Q5 dropin. I used the aspheric m@g for comparison as this is quite a common light amongst the CPF family.
Both shots taken against a fence 9 meters (30ft) away.
Camera settings set at f5 / ISO 400 / 6 sec exposure for both shots.
The m@g was projecting it's die on the fence, but this came out a little overexposed - hence the reason for the shape of the spot.
The UK1200 came out a LOT overexposed. Still...gives you an idea of the floody nature, and the amount of light generated in comparison.
Shooting both lights at an object 100 meters away - the aspheric m@g was in it's element, and the UK1200 was completely ineffective. Lucky the visibility where I dive never exceeds 30 meters, with 5-10 meters being the norm.
That link is for the 5W bi-pin bulb used for the alkaline 400 light.
It's easy to upgrade it significantly by putting in high capacity NiXX rechargeables and the 18W light from the D4 (newer version of the same light). D4 is for double bulb > 5W/18W on a rocker mechanism hooked to the switch.
The 4 D-cell rechargeable pack (~$100) that comes with the brighter version houses 4 x 4400mA Sanyo NiCad cells. Anything larger than that will do fine.
Brightguy also sells conversion plates to use the rechargeable version with standard D-cells, which also works. Personally I prefer the ease of converting the standard alkaline model and not having the plates.
To keep the light standard, but with a significant performance jump - go with the option as described by Flydiver above.
Use high capacity D size NiMh cells and the 18W D4 lamp as stated or alternatively get yourself a handfull of the WA1183 lamps from Litho123 before they're gone... The manufacturer is discontinuing them. (Cheaper than paying for Underwater Kinetics lamps and just as good)