22-25 minutes is about the normal runtime of the stanley with the hi-lo power. If your getting 20 minutes now it may improve with cycles. I also started to leave my charger plugged in 6-7hours after the light turns green and that seems to improve the runtime also.
Liteitup is spot-on when he says this is not plug-and-play. He links to a BatterySpace 4P pack and suggests asking for them to make it 4S, but I think BS would say that wiring LiMnNi cells in series without a PCB is "playing with fire" and recommend their 4S pack with pre-wired PCB, at: http://www.batteryspace.com/limnni26...tewithpcb.aspx
With a 4S pack, using the car cord as-is would be problematic: current could flow from a fresh HID battery back into the car's battery and alternator. A forward-biased diode (10A or better) in series with the cord would ensure that current only flows the right way, from car to HID. BTW, the 3S approach would definitely be out: 14+ volts from the car could exceed the pack's maximum voltage (think smoke, flames).
Of course the OEM AC charger won't work with the new battery. BS's charger at http://www.batteryspace.com/smartcha...tterypack.aspx or equivalent would be needed. But I'd venture that you could reuse the plug from the Stanley charger.
It would certainly be interesting to see what run time this provides: Northern Lights, if you have any real-world testing results please share!And, importantly, the HID would be 25% lighter (over a pound) after replacing the lead battery. On a long hike, that alone might be worth spending 2x the original cost to do the upgrade...
...but, and please excuse me, a newbie here, if in the interest of safety I ask everyone be careful about using these high-energy batteries, and add, "Just remember - only you can prevent Lithium fires!"
The battery provides low voltage DC. 6V? 12V? or something like that.
A HID bulb requires a much higher voltage. There is circuitry that changes the DC to AC and then runs the AC through a transformer to get the high voltage the HID bulb requires.
The transformer or other parts of the AC circuitry tend to vibrate and produce noise. The AC frequency is higher than household AC and makes the high pitched noise.
(Note: it might not be an actual transformer, but the concept is the same.)
If once you start down the light path, forever will it dominate your destiny, consume you it will.
I apologize if this has already been covered...there is a lot to read through about this particular light.
Has anybody confirmed the OTF lumens for the Stanley HID?
Lux Luthor, Jim Jones, Missionaryman and myself are a few that played with these when they first came out. You should dig for those posts. A123 and Emolie type cells are very safe. The only consumer problems is that they are high amps, you short them and you will deliver a lot of power which can heat things up but these do not reach runaway temperatures and do not flare.
Happy hunting. The work has been done, it is deep in the archives.
This post is only FWIW and as a few of you that I have already met know, I am no techie but a simple user of this kind of equipment...
After my recent purchase of the HID & 1365 and the full charge of both, I have been able to run a consecutive comparison test of the HID, 1365, and an approximate 5 year old Vectorlight 1.5 million candlepower pistol grip spotlight similar in appearance to the Stanley lights but with a metalic body.
All three tights were charged to full capacity and activated with the lock on device within 5 seconds of each other.
The Stanely HID ceased function after 13 minutes. It would turn on again but for only approximately 5 seconds and is now back on the charger.
The Stanley 1365 has decreased to a visual estimation of 20% to 30% of it's original thrown light as of approximately 20 minutes after activation.
The approximate 5 year old Vector (with original bulb and battery) is at approximately 60% to 70% of the original light output from activation time.
Wow... just wow...
30 minutes after activation the Stanley 1365 was at less than 5% original light output so I turned it off to recharge the light.
34 minutes after activation the Vector is down to approximately 10% to 15% of original output... I am more than a little impressed.
The spot light btw, being incadescent has a better color than the HID, the slightly warmer color gives better contrast so things look sharper and clearer even that gives an impression of more light because you see more detail.
Really, what this thread has turned to is not so much what light or which one is best. This discussion is all about batteries and power.
You could most definately reuse the stock barrel plug for the charger (i used this on a another custom HID light to charge a LIPO, along with an installed balance connector), just need to direct wire it to the battery pack and bypass the electrics for the SLA.
The Li pack could be hooked directly to hobby charger that does Lipo as the charge cycle is the same. These cells can charge at a 6.5 amp rate.
A good hobby charger seems like an expense but if you figure out how many other chargers it will replace it actually is a savings. BC6 for instance does 6 battery chemistries, in the case of Li it does three sub- programs so it actually does 8. They will also do conditioning, series, balance, storage prgrams and charge rates, manual or auto, capacities and voltage are all addressable. I got mine for $169 but is replaced the day I got it 8 other chargers.
You should dump the internal board if changing to Li. Remove it if possible, I am not familiar with the set up it could be physically impossible to do that but it should be isolated out of circuit at the least.
You can get from Batteryspace single purpose chargers too and at the least you would need this for the new system. I have a magcharger set up quite like that on a single use charger that has a 12v. input. That would be the way you use it in a vehicle.
Here are two BS links to lithium/polymer chargers, remember for these cells no balance is necessary and can be a straight series charge:
This next idea may sound overly complicated but it shows you to what extend you can take this. I have several chargers along with the BC6 that I use and necessariy need 110 V AC input, they have no 12V DC input. From Harbor Freight, best price on these with their sales or Goggle searched coupons, I have gotton small cigarette plug 100 watt and larger AC/DC inverters. These have cut outs and work just fine. My Tundra has at least four interior 12V outlets OEM that can take the loads, they are marked right on them.
It is not difficult to match the inverters to the needs, just read the spec on the input power, it given in amps then watts is amps X volts for the number.
My phone charger that came with the gizmo was AC only and the DC charger cord cost more than a Harbor Freit 100 watt inverter, $9 on a weekly sale. It powers the AC charger just fine.
I told you it was complex, but if you understand it you can see how you can save some money and be hooked up for any demand, and if you dont get that deep into electronics, you can ignore it. It has no affect on the Stanley conversion.
It is 2 A.M., couldn't sleep. I can now, going back to bed!
What do you techs/modifiers think about a power supply that would hang on your belt and connect to the Stanley via the cigarette lighter wire?
I just done another run-time test.....got 25 minutes on the low setting.
For weight the safe lithium is the lightest with that much (4 Ah, 14.8 V batt) power.
I you use anything other than a 12V pack however, the self contained battery would need to be by passed.
A ten cell NiMh pack of cells from Battery Junction would be my first choice. It charges on a NiMn charger, is 12.0 volts, up to 12 AH, charges at fast A rate, is not too heavy, cost about $40-$70. sub C to Ds available. The sub C is best by weight and is 5 Ah, charges at 3 amps and can take the Load. C look pretty good too, Ds are phenominal and I believe they can handle the HID bulb, but you should give Jeff a call and ask on that one for the D.
The second "test" has about the same result. The HID just gave up the ghost at 15 minutes.
The 1365 is at less than 50%
I had recharged both lights and they sat for about a day and a half before I ran the timed test.
Perhaps I expect too much from these lights???
Last edited by StuGatz; 02-16-2010 at 07:53 PM.
In my own testing i have hooked up fully charged 14.8 lipo pack (over 16 volts fully charged). I ran the light for about 10 minutes while the internal battery charged and ran off of the lipo pack. I measured a max 5 amp spike going into the stanley off the lipo while the stanley was running and then settled down to around 3 amps while running. I didnt test the amp draw while it was not running. Anything under 16 volts should be able to be handled i would think. next time i have my stanley apart im going to measure whats going on at the battery with a 14.8 lipo hooked up to the cord.
IIRC, I powered mine up to 15.5 Volts off a variable power supply so the Voltage was steady at 15.5, no sag. I chose not to go any further.
WWII 60" Anti Aircraft Carbon Arc (Sold), Short Arcs: 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600 Watt M-134 Gun Light, 500 Watt X-500-14s, 500 Watt Starburst, 300 Watt Locators, Megaray, 150 Watt Set Beam & Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, LarryK14@52V
The sla is 12v, so when not running, left hooked up the sla will drain the 14.8 V pack that is hooked to it. You cannot have two voltages in a closed circuit, they will equalize. Think of current like water, it will run to the lowest point. The sla can take the 15V surge or constant current but it will continue to drain. Think of it hooked up in a closed parrallel circuit like a 12V wet cell on a car, which has 6 ea 2V cells on the batt. when one goes bad, low voltage, it drains the others down to a stasis.
Was there anyone who has succeeded in getting the EU??
Brand new to this forum. My apologies if i have posted in the wrong thread. I am not an expert, but am seeking some assistance. Purchased the Stanley HID-0109 with 2 step intensity switch about 6 months ago from Wal-Mart for my girlfriend who is a petsitter. Seemed like a perfect gift, since some of her clients are "ranches".
She had some duration problems early on (as cited my some members of this forum). Left it plugged in to charge for weeks. Now when the DC charger is plugged in, the green status light immediately comes on. the red or orange never appears. When unplugged form the charger, the LEDs work, but the HID never comes on (at either intensity). When plugged into the 12V adapter for the car, apparently bypassing the battery, the HID works.
Could she have damaged the circuit protection or battery? Is the battery faulty? Should I call the "800" number in the user's manual? Is there something I can try before making that call?
Any help from you experts out there would be greatly appreciated.
I am also going to do further testing when i get motivated to see what happens at the sla when you plug a fully charged 14.8 lipo into the aux port to see how much current and voltage are going into the battery because a fully charged lipo would be running 16 volts.. I want to compare a 14.4 car running voltage to the lipo and see the differences. I would say i wouldnt make a habit of this until further testing is done. Like i said i tried it on mine and ran it for 10 minutes with no ill effects but i could have just been lucky, i havnt done it any longer then that.
If i were to build a spare battery solely for this operation i would make with a protection circuit built in for no worries and maybe run it through a rectifier to drop the voltage going into the light.