SureFire E-Series Addicts Unite!

[gswitter]

McGizmo's done a few (here and here - and a 3x123 L2). But you're right, he did have to shorten the internals of the head.

I can't find them now, but I've seen a few others post about making 2x123 L1's.

[Blindasabat]

Yeah, Crenshaw's was the one I was referring to needing the KX head with positive contact moved forward.

Milky did my 17500 old body right around the same time he made Crenshaw's light. He had just gotten a lathe & was still learning on it. The battery spacer in my 17500 body is only about 12mm long, so you would need another 22mm of length to fit two cr123's. I'd love to have one.

The one place I know you can get one is OpticsHQ - get an LX2!

I actually have an Aleph 17500 body (see post #20 - last picture, left side) and the McE2S switch (4 of them) and the only problem I have is that they need more force to activate then the L1 switches. Plus the L1 body is about perfectly knurled and a good diameter to grip. The Aleph bodies are thinner and only knurled in a small area (see post #20 again). not nearly as grippy, and the clip of the L1, while not a great clip (Needs to be LONGER SureFire!), IS a clip if you need it in a pinch, and provides anti-roll which I use a lot. Crenshaw's light rocks, but I want to be able to use all ten of my E-series compatible heads on it, not just the one head modified for it.

Maybe if I get a machinist to make the short E-series extension tube I have envisioned, I might as well make a few different lengths, such as the 22mm length to enable 2xcr123 L2's.

[flashfan]

Another SureFire E-Addict signing in. For me, the E2 is the perfect size and form factor for a flashlight. Was not crazy about the E1...until the KL1 heads were introduced. Now, all I "need" is an E3. Sadly, I dont' think SureFire will ever produce one. Woe is me.

[Blindasabat]

You can get an E-extension to turn one of your E2's into an E3 at JSBurly's.

Now, all I "need" is an E3. Sadly, I dont' think SureFire will ever produce one. Woe is me.

[mdocod]

Any issues with the forward-clickie being able to handle the high-output combo?

So far it's fine. I'll fine out in the long run I guess since it seems fairly difficult to find the twisty for these.... (was it a Z52?)

I've run it as long as about 5 minutes continuous already as this thing is quickly becoming my go-to for almost everything. The head sure does get hot fast though! wow....

Oh.. and it'll start "news"-paper smoking in 3 seconds flat.

-Eric

[lctorana]

Now, all I "need" is an E3. Sadly, I dont' think SureFire will ever produce one.

IMHO, FiveMega's 2x18500 E-body is the next best thing.

And it has his high-current switch, so you can use IMR-E2 LA's with impunity.

[Monocrom]

So far it's fine. I'll find out in the long run I guess since it seems fairly difficult to find the twisty for these.... (was it a Z52?)

I've run it as long as about 5 minutes continuous already as this thing is quickly becoming my go-to for almost everything. The head sure does get hot fast though! wow....

Oh.. and it'll start "news"-paper smoking in 3 seconds flat.

-Eric

Thanks for the reply.

Yup, z52 is the designation for the E-series version of the good old z41 on the 6P. I aquired a z52 without first realizing it. Very nice, but a bit rock hard. It's nice knowing that when I convert one of my E2Es to use the same set-up you have, I'll be able to use the z52; and not even have a tiny bit of worry. I'm sure the z57 will be fine, but I just really prefer momentary / twist constant-on tailcaps.

Wasn't aware of the newspaper thing. Would you call it a miniature Mag623. (And should I wear shades)?

[SolarMan]

I think mdocod needs a twisty ...

as long as he doesn't mind the burgundy flavour...



I just want to say that mdocod has been the source of info which enabled me to build the lights I have and use daily (and nightly!)

And I want to thank him!

(I'll PM you, Eric)

-Eric

[mudman cj]

I just wanted to provide links to the instances I mentioned of E series tailcaps failing after more than a few minutes of use with the IMR-E2. First was this post in which the spring lost its temper (no, not like ), and then this post in which the failure was more complete. They can certainly work for a few minutes at a time, but I suggest adding solder braid to help that poor spring conduct the 2.25 Amps.

[Illum]

I think mdocod needs a twisty ...

as long as he doesn't mind the burgundy flavour...

Mdocod needs a Z52? I'll see if I can find HA one for him as well...

[flashfan]

Blindasabat and Ictorana, thank you for the suggestions--will check them out. What I was hoping for, is a stock SureFire E3. (Trying to "decipher" the many modifications and/or SureFire lego options is way beyond me.)

[Kiessling]

SF E3e with Turbo Head. Exterior is stock, interior modded by McGizmo




Here's the elusive HA-BK E-Series twisty:




And here another nice little gem ... the ICE head:





E-Series rock.

bernie

[Illum]

SF E3e with Turbo Head. Exterior is stock, interior modded by McGizmo

One heck of a cranial examining light you got there doctor

[Owen]

We need for someone to come out with another 3 cell body with E compatibility on both ends, like the Blarog or UBH.
Always wished we'd see a 3x123 Aleph body...

[gswitter]

ARC mania did a batch for his 15-3 project, but I don't think he (or TnC) made any extras.


(picture borrowed from smokelaw)

[BigBluefish]

Just got my E1E BK (HA?) and E2E Satin Gray.

A couple of observations: the finish on the BK E1E is great, and the switch is nice. A very nice looking little light; nicer than my HA E1E, I think. The lamp is bright (for its 15 lumens) but the bean has an imperfect hotspot, and lots of artifacts, particularly near the edges of the spillbeam. This may be a candidate for a TLS head, or one of the upcoming Malkoff bezels, if my incoming LF HO-E1A lamp doesn't substantially improve the beam quality.

In contrast the E2E in Satin Gray, is well...it ain't satin finished, and frankly, it ain't gray, either. Kind of nasty bluish-silver, except for the head, which is plain silver. And it feels, well, not so good. The knurling isn't nearly as well executed as that on my E1E HA or E1E BK. You can call this one the E2U(gly.) Give this finish option a miss, E-series fans.

But, that's why it's cheaper than the other two finish options. The switch, as would be expectd, is great, and the MN03 lamp is . BRIGHT! 60 lumens? This puts several of my 100+ lumen rated LED's to shame. The beam is also, like my first HA E1E, just about flawless (though the hotspot doesn't seem perfectly round, on a white wall, which is of absolutely no practical import.) This is going to be my beater incan. High quality, just the right size, reliable, bright, great beam, but looks like @)*$, frankly. With the MN02 lamp, should be a great camping light. Though now I see a need for a nice E2E, HA or BK.

I'll try and post some pics tomorrow.

[auxcoastie]

THis is a perfectly timed thread.

I had 9 Surefires at my peak but due to needing money to fund the honey moon I dumped all of my P60 hosts and am just left with my E-series.

I used to carry a E1L as my EDC but when the E1B came out it became my EDC. I had a e2D but replaced it with an L4.

I think that the executive series are the perfect lights for regular users. E1b fits perfectly in my pocket and the L4 is perfect for doing vessel checks and other tasks due to its size.

The only thing I need to figure out is do I get a KX2C head to upgrade the old 100 lumen head or do I buy a P60 host? I cant really see buying another G2ZL when I don't carry a duty belt.

E-series = perfect.

[phxccw]

I'm looking at picking up a E1E Executive Elite for $55...good deal? And if so, what's the first thing I need to do to pump lumens?

[paintballdad]

I'm looking at picking up a E1E Executive Elite for $55...good deal? And if so, what's the first thing I need to do to pump lumens?

Would you mind sharing where you can get this deal? And is it the HA or HABK? Thanks.

[phxccw]

It's used and he has only one. Not sure what HA or HABK means.

[paintballdad]

HA is hard anodized olive drab and HABK is hard anodized black.

[RobertM]

SureFire E-Series lights are great! I've been carrying my E1e with FM's Strion kit running on 1x IMR16340 for the past little while...killer little combo!

My fiancée is a fan of SF lego lights as well and daily carries this little E-series lego with a LF HO-E1A lamp:







We also got her an E2D bezel which is currently on the light (she tends to alternate back-and-forth). She likes the angry look of her little light with the E2D bezel, LOL.

-Robert

[mudman cj]

phxccw - First, a heart felt welcome to CPF.
Second, you should review the forum rules, specifically #9) Double and cross posting

[kelmo]

I just spent a long weekend in the woods. My E2D was the perfect camp light. Just bright enough to totally satisfy. I had a 9P w/M60W and a diffuser too. Everybody wanted to borrow my "Xenon, Warrior Princess." The Malkoff was just too bright.

[Monocrom]

... the L4 is perfect for doing vessel checks and other tasks due to its size.

The only thing I need to figure out is do I get a KX2C head to upgrade the old 100 lumen head or do I buy a P60 host? I can't really see buying another G2ZL when I don't carry a duty belt.

E-series = perfect.

The KX2C head is the exact opposite of the KL4 head on your L4. The KX2C is designed more for throw, rather than flood. It has very little sidespill, and gives off an intense hotspot.

Gene is coming out with an E-series replacement head that would allow his M60 drop-ins to work with an E-series body. You could get the new head, and then his M60F drop-in to put inside of it. Screw the complete head onto your L4, and you've got your upgrade.

Here's a link:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=231465

[Monocrom]

I'm looking at picking up a E1E Executive Elite for $55...good deal? And if so, what's the first thing I need to do to pump lumens?

You've got a handful of options. Easiest one is to get an Optics HQ / TLS Q5 LED replacement head. Huge increase in lumen output, but the carry-clip becomes useless since the TLS head is a bit longer than the standard E1E head. With the TLS head in place, the clip becomes simply an anti-roll feature. If clip carry isn't important to you, the TLS head is a great option.

If you want to keep the stock E1E head in place, you can send your light off to Scott (MilkySpit) and have him turn it into a Milky Red-Eye. One Hell of a sweet upgrade! If you'd prefer, he can alter the beam profile so that your E1E gives a ton of flood with no hotspot. (A single-cell Milky RoomSweeper).

If you'd prefer not to alter your E1E into an LED light, you can get a Lumens Factory HO-E1R 3.6 volt 50 Lumen high-output lamp. Replace the stock lamp in the E1E with this one, and be sure to use only a rechargeable CR123 cell (RCR123) with the lamp. This is the least expensive route, but also yields the smallest jump in output. Besides the lamp assembly, and one RCR123 cell, you'll need a charger for the cell. Check out Lighthound.com if you go with this option.

Check out the links below for the other two options...

TLS head. (Scroll nearly all the way down to where it says, TLS CREE Q5 LED Conversion Head for E1. Then click on the image). ~
http://www.opticshq.com/page/Optics/...re-Accessories

Milky Red-Eye. ~
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=211483

Milky RoomSweeper (2-cell version). ~
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=209239

[Centropolis]

It is reading these threads that makes me feel so behind and inadequate. I only have an E1B, 2 E1Es and an E1L.

[phxccw]

Thanks bud. Is there a particular RCR123 and charger that you would recommend from lighthound?

You've got a handful of options. Easiest one is to get an Optics HQ / TLS Q5 LED replacement head. Huge increase in lumen output, but the carry-clip becomes useless since the TLS head is a bit longer than the standard E1E head. With the TLS head in place, the clip becomes simply an anti-roll feature. If clip carry isn't important to you, the TLS head is a great option.

If you want to keep the stock E1E head in place, you can send your light off to Scott (MilkySpit) and have him turn it into a Milky Red-Eye. One Hell of a sweet upgrade! If you'd prefer, he can alter the beam profile so that your E1E gives a ton of flood with no hotspot. (A single-cell Milky RoomSweeper).

If you'd prefer not to alter your E1E into an LED light, you can get a Lumens Factory HO-E1R 3.6 volt 50 Lumen high-output lamp. Replace the stock lamp in the E1E with this one, and be sure to use only a rechargeable CR123 cell (RCR123) with the lamp. This is the least expensive route, but also yields the smallest jump in output. Besides the lamp assembly, and one RCR123 cell, you'll need a charger for the cell. Check out Lighthound.com if you go with this option.

Check out the links below for the other two options...

TLS head. (Scroll nearly all the way down to where it says, TLS CREE Q5 LED Conversion Head for E1. Then click on the image). ~
http://www.opticshq.com/page/Optics/...re-Accessories

Milky Red-Eye. ~
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=211483

Milky RoomSweeper (2-cell version). ~
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=209239

[kelmo]

It is reading these threads that makes me feel so behind and inadequate. I only have an E1B, 2 E1Es and an E1L.

What's to feel inadequate about?! Thats a mighty fine stable of Elites you got.

BTW - I just spent a week in Brampton visiting with my wife's side of the family.

[mdocod]

Big thanks to SolarMan!

He has contacted me and is going to send me a Z52! Very exciting!

Color match has never really bothered me much. I use flashlights in the dark usually

I was just going to ask if I could thank him publicly, cats out of the bag anyhow so ....

THANK YOU ERIC!!!

-Eric

(yea yea, we have the same name haha)