EDIT: Forgot that you were referring to your 2x18650 light. Will that be the emergency light you were referring to?
Ideally, for cell longevity, Li-Ion Rechargeable cells are best stored at around 3.7V, however, this is not feasible since you are using it as an emergency light. My advice?, just keep it fully charged inside your light. If the light is kept in a nice cool place (drawer in the house) it should be fine. Capacity loss due to storing batteries fully charged, for us laymen, should not be noticeable at all. Test the light every so often and complete discharge and recharge every 3 months should suffice.
Last edited by xzel87; 12-07-2015 at 05:17 PM.
1) Malkoff Cocktail: 1 x 3D-cell Maglite, one Malkoff XML Dropin, 1 glass lens, 1 mdocod 9xAA to 3D adapter (parallel)
2) JayRob MT-G2 - 3 Amps
I just took my first step into the world of rechargeable batteries, with the receipt of my Nitecore i2 charger and two Nitecore RCR123 cells.
Thank you for this sticky thread, I have not yet read through it all but I've already learnt a ton.
I agree skaaphass, I just got the same cells (along with a few others) and a Nitecore D4 the other night. The information you learn here is invaluable.
This is a very informative post. As a complete noob on batteries, I was going to ask you guys/gals which rechargeable batteries and charger would be a good fit for my situation. I feel kind of hesitant on ordering some now after reading this. Thanks for the warning.
I've read the entire thread and think I'm getting a handle on this. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong:
I run an unprotected AW 16340 in my HDS. This is ok because the light itself is protected against over discharging the battery.
I have an Olight S1 baton, which does not have the same protection in the light as the HDS. I should still be ok running a quality unprotected cell in it because, probable worse case scenario is that I would over discharge the cell and negatively affect its capacity or life span. If I'm semi cautious with charging the cell in accordance with my use, it shouldn't be an issue.
What about running two unprotected 18500s or 18650s in an MD3 or MD4 body? I know Malkoff suggests protected cells, but I've seen where some people run the AW reds in series. Is this another (probable) worse case scenario of harming the cells, or am I looking at potential damage or injury to myself or the light?
I do not check the voltages of my cells, but charge them after significant use in a Nitecore I2.
Any guidance is appreciated.
Can you please add some info on the solar powered string lights which have batteries like 3.7v, 14500, 400 mah ICR?
Want to know if it matters which company or quality one buys for a low usage lights like these?
So links to best buys may help if you know
Thank you for the explanation-looks comprehensive and good
the only thing i would add is dont run them flat (or below their lowest voltage)
You should mention something about storage. Please clarify if the batteries are ticking bombs which will explode when the discharge under 3V...
Store around 3.6v in a cool dry place if for long periods. If in a flashlight, lock out to eliminate any parasitic drain and check periodically . Even if it means running the light for 5m and topping back off or leaving around 4.1v which can help the life over time(years).
When a cell is shorted, this causes a risk and with the pressure inside(pipe bomb), so not only are voltage checks important over time, but also checking over the cell, making sure the wrap/s are not torn/damaged.................if so, remove and replace with readily available wrappers (cheap as chips). Many youtube vids to show how easy to fit..........I slip one on the cell, check length which usually is a few mm too long, remove and cut off with scissors. Re fit on the cell, heat with hair dryer(carefully) to shrink wrap on cell.............check all is well and good to go again.
Not into great detail, just keeping it simple like me but those are some basics.
Too add, there are usually lots of warnings even if a flashlight will not flash or blink when close to 3v. Not being able to get into higher modes is a simple indication to charge back up. Ideally, try and not go bellow 3.3-3.5v to keep it within a nice margin of possible...........how will i know when its 3.5v???? Well if a new light, use for a set period, check voltage and repeat to get an idea. For example it may take 2hrs of use to get to 3.5v on medium and turbo uses. So if your uses is simply 30m a day, every 4 days top cell off(just a rough example).
Last edited by ven; 11-28-2016 at 01:55 PM.
@ven Thanks it now feel a little better. Its my first Li-ion battery LED flashlight and I still got the feeling that I have bought a pipe bomb :-) I have bought a Xtar Ant-MC1 Plus charger and a Keeppower 3500 mah protected battery which should be good quality. The flashlight is a Astrolux S1 which should have necesarry safety mechanisms for example low voltage protection.
First of all it is important to understand that Li-ion batteries which you have in every cell phone are an excellent type of battery BUT…they are known to explode or self ignite, as just recently happened with some of the Galaxy Note 7 phones.
Protected Li-ion batteries are batteries which have a circuit board on them which prevents the battery from being reversed charged or reverse operated. Now if you have a charger that is also reverse polarity protected than even if you have a non protected battery it will not be damaged if placed the wrong way in the charger.
Unfortunately there are many low grade batteries and substandard charges sold on the market or supplied with flashlights, so you have to be very careful about the battery that you use and the charger you are using.
Remember there are many products manufactured in China (like iPhone) the difference is where it is made and the specification according to which it was produced.
Our recommendation is to only buy quality protected batteries making sure that the rated capacity (mAh) is the real capacity (In many cases the rated capacity is much higher than the actual capacity). It can be easily verified when testing the battery as per the below picture.
Also make sure you have a quality charger that is UL certified (confirming to the US Safety Standards) there are many dangerous cheap chargers, do yourself a favor and avoid them. Check for the UL marking on your charger. Verify the charging current is at least 1000mA unless you want to wait for hours until your battery is charged! (See below picture)
Here is an article with some additional information on the subject
The Brightex Team
My website with battery and charger information: lygte-info.
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Compare 18650 LiIon batteries or smaller (RCR123, 16340, 14500, 10450) LiIon batteries.