Just saw a reference to it and I've never seen one.
Just saw a reference to it and I've never seen one.
It struck me as one of those cool custom things that are found on the best handmade frames, not unlike running dynamo wires through the frame and rack tubing. For rando events where you are trying to reduce drag, I'd get a waterproof switch and just mount it to the frame or rack or other convenient spot. For a commuter like myself, I just skip using a switch, and my LED headlight is on constantly.
Mounting a switch in the steerer tube does complicate things, and requires extra wiring. This means that it increases the likelihood of a failure, which isn't really a good thing for rando riders.
In addition to looking through back issues of BQ, you might check the internet-bob list. You can do a search here...
Jan posts to the internet-bob list fairly often, and I think it has been discussed.
Jan machined a plastic plug on a lathe to snugly fit inside his fork's steerer tube, then mounted a rotary switch in that plastic plug. A custom aluminum switch knob was also fabricated to actuate the switch and close off the open end of the steerer tube.
Note also that his bike doesn't use a standard/modern threadless steerer. Jan copied the design from either Herse or Singer (I forget which), which is sort-of a hybrid of threaded/threadless systems. It uses a standard threaded fork, with a "quill" that is brazed inside the top of the steerer tube. A stem then clamps around the outside of the brazed-in quill. What this means is that there is no need for a star-nut or anything similar to pre-load the headset bearings (which is accomplished via normal threaded headset race + locking nut) -- the steerer tube is left open to accommodate the switch.
That said, you could certainly copy this internal switch for a modern threadless stem/headset/steerer -- you either use a removable compression plug (set the compression, clamp the stem in place, then remove the plug), or you can use an adjustable threadless headset spacer, such as
I thought about trying to design a stem-cap switch, but instead mounted a switch in a remote box on my front rack
Too bad I screwed up his name
Thanks for the explanation. I'm on the framebuilder's list, and Jan seems to think we should have all the back issues before we can understand his emails. While I can understand that, I'm too broke right now.
I was going to put a switch on my dyno, but I decided I'd rather have it guaranteed to work and just went with straight through wiring. I guess I should put a switch on there eventually.
Here's a photo...
I had forgotten the details, but that really is something that would be hard to get other than by going to a custom frame builder.
If I was going to try to rig up a cool custom switch on a stem, I think I'd start with an alloy stem with a hollow extension (like a lot of modern stems for threadless headsets). Ideally, the cross section of the extension would be circular, because my idea involves installing a reed switch on the inside, and a rotating plastic ring with an embedded magnet on the outside. Basically, it would be the same switch design as the Schmidt E6. The hard part would be figuring out how to do the plastic ring with the magnet.
The reed switch would be used to switch the voltage to a mosfet gate, and the mosfet would carry the current to the light.
Of course, in the real world, I don't bother switching power to my led headlight, so this is just a fun idea to play around with.
Also, what kind of light is on this picture?
Nightlightning quad R2 MR11 lighthead running Martins auto switching dyno circuit. Cap is a simple on off ip56 switch.
Yes the space is quite useful. You could get 2-3 18650s in there.
I have in the past looked into doing similar on the roadie but there isn't a lot of room between the tyre and fork.
The star nut is only used when tensioning. After that is set you can remove it. Or you can leave it and run wires up past the star nut. I couldn't do that here because the tube is tapered, had to go in the top.
I have purchased a removable star nut for when it needs tensioning again, but haven't put many miles on the MTB since this build so haven't used it.
I would like to go in the top because 1. something must hold the batteries in the tube (like a plug at the bottom of the tube) and 2. it will be much easier to remove the batteries (to charge them) through the top than through the bottom.Or you can leave it and run wires up past the star nut. I couldn't do that here because the tube is tapered, had to go in the top.
Like this one, this one, or this much more expensive (why) one?I have purchased a removable star nut for when it needs tensioning again
I have a BBB brand star nut, probably much like the ones you link. Can't find a link online to one sorry.
I thought you could hang stuff under the star nut without too much trouble, the BMX star nuts use a hollow bolt so you could run power/control wires in/out there.
I tend to use Digi-key a lot, and a quick search for "switch boots" pulls up a number of items. These are rubber boots/covers that can be used with general panel mounted switches. Here's one of them:
Lots of options. The hard part is to understand the options, and you may want to go to the manufacturer's site for explanations. Digi-key does a nice job of providing links to the manufacturer and their catalog pages.
Now you know how all us Kiwis and aussies feel trying to get US stuff !!!!!
Actually they do, its 7.50 shipping to the US which isn't too bad.
Thanks for the information, I had been deterred by the shopping cart page which shows several shipping options to NZ only, no mention of other countries. I assume you can choose later in the check out process?Actually they do, its 7.50 shipping to the US which isn't too bad
I'd rather get two for $6 than one for $7.50!