anyone use Jan Hiene/Bike Quarterly light switch?

Steve K

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Just saw a reference to it and I've never seen one.

I think there were pictures in one of the Bicycle Quarterly issues. Don't recall the details offhand. It's used with a threadless headset, and the stem cap functions as the switch knob.

It struck me as one of those cool custom things that are found on the best handmade frames, not unlike running dynamo wires through the frame and rack tubing. For rando events where you are trying to reduce drag, I'd get a waterproof switch and just mount it to the frame or rack or other convenient spot. For a commuter like myself, I just skip using a switch, and my LED headlight is on constantly.

Mounting a switch in the steerer tube does complicate things, and requires extra wiring. This means that it increases the likelihood of a failure, which isn't really a good thing for rando riders.

In addition to looking through back issues of BQ, you might check the internet-bob list. You can do a search here...
http://search.bikelist.org/

Jan posts to the internet-bob list fairly often, and I think it has been discussed.

regards,
Steve K.
 

sfCyclotourist

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Jan machined a plastic plug on a lathe to snugly fit inside his fork's steerer tube, then mounted a rotary switch in that plastic plug. A custom aluminum switch knob was also fabricated to actuate the switch and close off the open end of the steerer tube.

Note also that his bike doesn't use a standard/modern threadless steerer. Jan copied the design from either Herse or Singer (I forget which), which is sort-of a hybrid of threaded/threadless systems. It uses a standard threaded fork, with a "quill" that is brazed inside the top of the steerer tube. A stem then clamps around the outside of the brazed-in quill. What this means is that there is no need for a star-nut or anything similar to pre-load the headset bearings (which is accomplished via normal threaded headset race + locking nut) -- the steerer tube is left open to accommodate the switch.

That said, you could certainly copy this internal switch for a modern threadless stem/headset/steerer -- you either use a removable compression plug (set the compression, clamp the stem in place, then remove the plug), or you can use an adjustable threadless headset spacer, such as

http://aebike.com/page.cfm?action=details&PageID=30&SKU=HD9970

I thought about trying to design a stem-cap switch, but instead mounted a switch in a remote box on my front rack

 

znomit

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I think there were pictures in one of the Bicycle Quarterly issues. Don't recall the details offhand. It's used with a threadless headset, and the stem cap functions as the switch knob.

You mean like mine?

MTBdyn1.jpg
 

unterhausen

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Re: anyone use Jan Heine/Bike Quarterly light switch?

Too bad I screwed up his name :(

Thanks for the explanation. I'm on the framebuilder's list, and Jan seems to think we should have all the back issues before we can understand his emails. While I can understand that, I'm too broke right now.

I was going to put a switch on my dyno, but I decided I'd rather have it guaranteed to work and just went with straight through wiring. I guess I should put a switch on there eventually.
 

Steve K

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Here's a photo...
(image deleted)

hi Jim,

I had forgotten the details, but that really is something that would be hard to get other than by going to a custom frame builder.

If I was going to try to rig up a cool custom switch on a stem, I think I'd start with an alloy stem with a hollow extension (like a lot of modern stems for threadless headsets). Ideally, the cross section of the extension would be circular, because my idea involves installing a reed switch on the inside, and a rotating plastic ring with an embedded magnet on the outside. Basically, it would be the same switch design as the Schmidt E6. The hard part would be figuring out how to do the plastic ring with the magnet.

The reed switch would be used to switch the voltage to a mosfet gate, and the mosfet would carry the current to the light.

Of course, in the real world, I don't bother switching power to my led headlight, so this is just a fun idea to play around with.

regards,
Steve
 

Cemoi

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You mean like mine?

Znomit, could you please post details on your switch (inside pictures), unless it was dealt with in another thread?
Also, what kind of light is on this picture?

you can use an adjustable threadless headset spacer, such as
http://aebike.com/page.cfm?action=details&PageID=30&SKU=HD9970

Interesting, does this mean that using this the steerer tube can be left completely open on both sides? I would like to house batteries inside the tube (e.g. by blocking the bottom of the tube with a star nut), and put a znomit-like switch on top of the tube, so that only very compact front and rear lights are visible on my bike.
 

znomit

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Znomit, could you please post details on your switch (inside pictures), unless it was dealt with in another thread?
Also, what kind of light is on this picture?

Interesting, does this mean that using this the steerer tube can be left completely open on both sides? I would like to house batteries inside the tube (e.g. by blocking the bottom of the tube with a star nut), and put a znomit-like switch on top of the tube, so that only very compact front and rear lights are visible on my bike.

Its a Nightlightning quad R2 MR11 lighthead running Martins auto switching dyno circuit. Cap is a simple on off ip56 switch.
MTBdyn3.jpg


Yes the space is quite useful. You could get 2-3 18650s in there.

I have in the past looked into doing similar on the roadie but there isn't a lot of room between the tyre and fork.
The star nut is only used when tensioning. After that is set you can remove it. Or you can leave it and run wires up past the star nut. I couldn't do that here because the tube is tapered, had to go in the top.

I have purchased a removable star nut for when it needs tensioning again, but haven't put many miles on the MTB since this build so haven't used it.

Details here...
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2500405&postcount=35
 

Cemoi

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The star nut is only used when tensioning. After that is set you can remove it.
Sorry if this is a bit off topic (should ask this on a bike mechanics forum) but I'm not familiar with adjusting an A-headset. Do you mean that the top bolt must be tightened first, then the two bolts that hold the stem onto the steerer tube, and after this you can remove the top bolt and and cap? i.e. the stem is held safely enough on the steerer tube by the two bolts only?
Or you can leave it and run wires up past the star nut. I couldn't do that here because the tube is tapered, had to go in the top.
I would like to go in the top because 1. something must hold the batteries in the tube (like a plug at the bottom of the tube) and 2. it will be much easier to remove the batteries (to charge them) through the top than through the bottom.
I have purchased a removable star nut for when it needs tensioning again
Like this one, this one, or this much more expensive (why) one?
 

znomit

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Do you mean that the top bolt must be tightened first, then the two bolts that hold the stem onto the steerer tube, and after this you can remove the top bolt and and cap? i.e. the stem is held safely enough on the steerer tube by the two bolts only?

Yes, thats the idea, the stem bolts hold it tight. It was Ktroniks idea and he's had no problems.
I have a BBB brand star nut, probably much like the ones you link. Can't find a link online to one sorry.
I thought you could hang stuff under the star nut without too much trouble, the BMX star nuts use a hollow bolt so you could run power/control wires in/out there.
 

Cemoi

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Cap is a simple on off ip56 switch.

Unfortunately jaycar only ships to NZ or AU. Anybody knows where I can find a similar switch (on-off, IP56, fits nicely in a steerer tube end) in the US?

There are thousands of switches at e.g. mouser.com but I am lost amongst all these models.
 

Steve K

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Unfortunately jaycar only ships to NZ or AU. Anybody knows where I can find a similar switch (on-off, IP56, fits nicely in a steerer tube end) in the US?

There are thousands of switches at e.g. mouser.com but I am lost amongst all these models.

Don't forget about the tens of thousands of switches that you can get from other suppliers like digi-key, Newark Electronics, Avnet, Future Electronics, etc.! :)

I tend to use Digi-key a lot, and a quick search for "switch boots" pulls up a number of items. These are rubber boots/covers that can be used with general panel mounted switches. Here's one of them:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=335-1041-ND

Lots of options. The hard part is to understand the options, and you may want to go to the manufacturer's site for explanations. Digi-key does a nice job of providing links to the manufacturer and their catalog pages.

best wishes,
Steve K.
 

Cemoi

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Now you know how all us Kiwis and aussies feel trying to get US stuff
I knew it long ago, since it is not easier here on the other side of the world WRT NZ. We have the same trouble in Europe with excessive shipping fees for very light items. I was asking about finding it in the US since a friend of mine will soon travel there and can carry stuff back to me.

Actually they do, its 7.50 shipping to the US which isn't too bad
Thanks for the information, I had been deterred by the shopping cart page which shows several shipping options to NZ only, no mention of other countries. I assume you can choose later in the check out process?

Strangely on this page the switch is $3.00 each, but when I click on "buy it" it shows up at $7.50 in the shopping cart:(
I'd rather get two for $6 than one for $7.50!
 
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