Quality Rechargeable CR123a Confusion...

Hi all,

This is my first post. My apologies if it has been covered but i couldnt find a straight answer. I recently Purchased a few Fenix Lights (TA-30, P3D Q5, and the PD20) all of which use CR123a batteries. I've been buying the Titanium Brand from batteryjunction.com but would like to switch over to rechargeable ones to save some cash. I've been having a difficult time trying to find quality rechargeable as i cannot find reviews on them. I'm debating over the only two that i found which are the 3.6V 880mah Ultrafire Protected Li-Ion Batteries found here http://www.batteryjunction.com/combo-tl100-2-uf-16340.html and the Wama RECHARGEABLE 3V CR123A Found here http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B002BK8OSW/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=A213L254EYOZFM&v=glance
Has anyone used these before? Are they quality batteries? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Also if there are better quality batteries please let me know. Thanks in advance.http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t..._shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=A213L254EYOZFM&v=glance

Really - No RCR123A tests ... :mecry: Hmmm strange , Im sure there are quite a few about .

I have the WAMA charger and batteries, my advice but them, then throw away the batteries, they discharge so quick it's untrue, the chargers are ace though, I have two of them.
Only one choice really for top notch RCR123, AW, the only two letters you need to know, all my other batteries are put to shame by these, that offer brighter lights, longer runtimes, but as with everything are a bit more costly but worth it, they don't discharge anywhere near as quick as wama etc either.
I also have the newer Ultrafire in 18650 which are not far behind, and a lot cheaper, assume they do 123 ?
tabetha

Ultrafire does have RCR123/16340 cells, but they are nowhere near the level of the newer large cells they have introduced recently.

For RCR123/16340 cells, I have AW and Trustfire cells.

Get AW RCR123s. They're not horribly expensive ($6) and there are no cheap RCR123s that can compete with them. Ultrafire and Trustfire have very good 18650s though.

Welcome!
AW cells a very popular around here. Check out the sales thread here or 4Sevens also sells them here. Be sure to research the safe and proper use for Li-Ions as well.

Oddjob said:

Be sure to research the safe and proper use for Li-Ions as well.

Click to expand...

Just want to add emphasis to what Oddjob said. This is of paramount importance. Li-Ions are sorta like running nitro at the drag strip. You really need to be informed on their proper usage. Read some of the sticky threads at the top of this Forum, if you haven't already. There's a wealth of information contained in them.

Also I would try to avoid cheapie cells and chargers. It's been proven to me, that they just aren't worth messing with.

Oh, and welcome to CPF!

Dave

Hello Moevtec,

Welcome to CPF!

The TA30 would be much better if run on a pair of 3.7V 17500 size cells, rather than 3 RCR123s.

True capacity of almost all RCR123s, REGARDLESS of what the label says, is about 500-600mAH. That translates to a total stored energy of around 2 watt-hours per cell. Or about 6 watt-hours total for the set of 3 cells if you went that route.

17500 cells routinely clock in at an honest 1100mAH. This would translate to about 8 watt-hours of stored energy, or about 33% longer runtime compared to RCR123s.

Charging 2 cells will also be less hassle than charging 3 each time. Most li-ion cradle chargers are going to be 2-bay. I suggest you check out the Pila IBC, and pick up an extra set of 15mm spacers to go with it so you can use it with RCR123 size cells.

The P3D will need to be run on a pair of RCR123s, you'll take a pretty significant hit on runtime compared to CR123 primary cells but will have your rechargeability.

The PD20, unfortunately, can not be used with 3.7V RCR123 cells. The circuitry will not tolerate it and you will loose all low-modes and possibly severely over-drive the LED and over-heat something depending on the Vf of the emitter in your particular light. The only way to go rechargeable on these is to either use a 3.0V LiFeP04 cell, or a 3.0V "buck regulated" protected LiCo cell. (A 3.7V cell with built in voltage bucking to work with sensatiev devices like this)... Either of these types of cells will require their own dedicated charger that is NOT reverse compatible with 3.7V cells.

You should keep reading around, gather up as much information as you can...

I highly suggest starting here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201375

My recomended solution, long term, would be to do everything in your power to standardize on as few li-ion cell chemistries, types, and sizes as possible. The TA30 is a special type of light that is worth holding onto. Run it on a pair of 17500s and you will probably be very satisfied. As for the P3D and PD20, if it were me. I would sell both, and replace the P3D with a 1x18650 powered light of similar styling and build and features, and replace the PD20 with one of the MANY similar size fully featured lights out there that are designed to work with 3.7V RCR123 cells.

I know nobody likes that sort of recomendation, just realize that I wouldn't make it without real justification, the PD20 and P3D just aren't optimal platforms to go rechargeable on.

-Eric

I've been using Batterystation's RCR123 and they seem to be ok, though I don't get long runtimes, I've not seen much info on these cells.

Thank you guys for all the feedback all of you are great. Sounds like many here go with AW's. I think I will give them a shot. If there is any more info you guys want me to know or recommend I read just say so. All this info is great. Thanks again