Need a scientific laboratory flashlight

Xe54

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Hi:

I'm a laser/optical/electronics technologist in a research department with 8 laboratories, studying optically accessible internal combustion engines. Most of the labs have 2D Mag lights. I'm considering to persuade them to switch to single 18650 powered lights, so we don't have to deal with the battery waste (CA), and also for the superior inspection/task lighting characteristics of a nearly gaussian LED flashlight beam profile.

So the question is, which flashlights can satisfy the following criteria:

1. can take 1 x 18650 (UPDATE: 2 x AA is the only format now under consideration, due to Li-ion safety concerns.)

2. have 2-3 levels easily accessed by either a tail switch or a ring adjust. IF the tail switch sets levels, then it must memorize the level. A good medium of 50-100 lm would be nice, as well as a high of 150-200 lm. These numbers are flexible. Forward or rev. clicky isn't critical. But it must turn on and off with one switch cycle. I don't like lights that have to click through two levels to get turned off.

3. are not physically too small--too small will be hard to find among clutter. A typical 2xCR123 tactical flashlight size is probably the minimum size that is acceptable. Larger is OK too. Must stand on the bezel easily, so a bezel of larger diameter than the body is preferred.

4. has a smooth beam profile even fairly close, such as at 6 inches from the bezel. This concern arises from the fact that large reflector lights can have a donut profile up close, and take some distance before the beam fills in. But since this light will be used primarily for illuminating optics and other things at distances of 6-18 inches, the beam must be smooth as close to the light's business end as possible.

5. can be purchased for a budgetary range of $75-100. I know this would be much easier if I could go up to the $150 range, but I'd prefer to stay below $100. If there are supremely ideal lights that anyone can speak of which perfectly satisfy the other criteria, then feel free to mention them. For instance, I am interested in the Jetbeam Raptor series, but I'm not sure about their up-close beam profiles. They are in the <$150 price range though.

6. available through distributors that take VISA. No paypal. Prefer something manufactured by a regular volume maker that's been in business for a few years, rather than something custom/one-off.

Thanks for any feedback. :)
 
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tino_ale

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I'm gonna let others to suggest the best pick, but...

This only reminds me how some "high technology" professionnals are still using very mediocre lights at work eventhough it is sometime a tool of first importance. Good thing that you are willing to adress this.
 

Xe54

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Just to clarify:
1. can take 1 x 18650
That is one 18650 lithium ion cell. This is highly preferrable to a 2xCR123 light with a 17670 (presuming it can work with lower voltage), simply because changing cells is an inconvenience, so minimizing the frequency of battery swapping is important.

The door is also open for flashlights which are rechargeable without removing the cells, I suppose.
 

RobertM

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How about a Zebralight H60W? Aside from it being kinda small, I think it would fit most of your requirements.

-Robert
 

Moonshadow

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A good medium of 50-100 lm would be nice, as well as a high of 150-200 lm . . .
. . . this light will be used primarily for illuminating optics and other things at distances of 6-18 inches . . .
Jeepers ! 150 - 200 lumens at 6 - 18 inches . . . are you sure ??? :poof:
 

ZMZ67

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No experience with 18650 lights so I don't have a recommendation but I am wondering if tint matters? The majority of LED lights will have a cool tints much different than the warm output from a 2D Mag w/stock bulb.
Usually cool tinted lights are fine for indoor use but for color rendition warmer tints may be better.
 

lxhunter

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You came to the right place for advice - you will get lots of good specific suggestions. And you have described your needs very thoroughly.

I can only comment on a few general suggestions:

Beam - you may consider adding a "beam shaper" a white translucent filter which is helpful for close up work. Most major companies sell one, or there are many aftermarket providers. Along with a variable output with a low setting.

Hazardous environment - you work in a lab, so you don't need any lecture from me - but you may wish to review this link - and its not an endorsement of a specific manufacturer - just a source of info
http://www.streamlight.com/education/safety-ratings.aspx

Body Colour - you may consider a brightly coloured light - for example a Surefire G2L in yellow - less likey to misplace. This is just an example of a brightly coloured light and does not meet the criteria you describe.

Ergonomics - you have considered a twist or clicky control. And, I believe you can find that all major manufactures and aftermarket lens/light manufacturers offer lamp assemblies which retain the last light setting.
 

Nightstalker1993

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hmm. first thing that came to mind was the ET T100c2. though it is a thrower, its pretty big and since its using an xp-e LED, the beam is flawless. runtimes on 18650s are practically flat all the way.

loosen head for low 55l, tighten head for high 220l
 

Xe54

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No experience with 18650 lights so I don't have a recommendation but I am wondering if tint matters? The majority of LED lights will have a cool tints much different than the warm output from a 2D Mag w/stock bulb.
Usually cool tinted lights are fine for indoor use but for color rendition warmer tints may be better.

I might go for a warm, if it's available in the model of light that satisfies all the other criteria. But color is flexible. Beam profile is more important than color for this application.
 

Xe54

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hmm. first thing that came to mind was the ET T100c2. though it is a thrower, its pretty big and since its using an xp-e LED, the beam is flawless. runtimes on 18650s are practically flat all the way.

loosen head for low 55l, tighten head for high 220l

Thanks for the suggestion.

XP-E is nice. I just bought a couple Quarks with this.

One thing I am opposed to though is overdrive. As an electronics designer, this is completely forbidden with power semiconductors such as MOSFETs, ordinary diodes and transistors. I think it is courting disaster with LEDs. I have written about this several times in the past here on CPF.

I suspect the EagleTac is overdriving, since from the datasheet graph an R2 XP-E at 70mA is about 175% over the base spec of 114 lm/350mA, which translates to 199 lm, but EagleTac is advertising 220 lm.

If I want a light to be reliable for 5-10 years, I don't want it to be overdriven.
 

RocketTomato

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How about a Jet-III M? It does not have 2-3 levels but instead has the infinitely variable brightness system (I.B.S.) that Jetbeam uses.
 

Bullzeyebill

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Thanks for the suggestion.

XP-E is nice. I just bought a couple Quarks with this.

One thing I am opposed to though is overdrive. As an electronics designer, this is completely forbidden with power semiconductors such as MOSFETs, ordinary diodes and transistors. I think it is courting disaster with LEDs. I have written about this several times in the past here on CPF.

I suspect the EagleTac is overdriving, since from the datasheet graph an R2 XP-E at 70mA is about 175% over the base spec of 114 lm/350mA, which translates to 199 lm, but EagleTac is advertising 220 lm.

If I want a light to be reliable for 5-10 years, I don't want it to be overdriven.

How far over 700mA's do you think that EagleTac is overdriving the LED? You did mean 700mA, instead of 70?

Bill
 

Xe54

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How far over 700mA's do you think that EagleTac is overdriving the LED? You did mean 700mA, instead of 70?
Bill

Eyeball extrapolating from the chart, I'd say 800 to 900 mA (probably closer to 800 mA). Their stated 220 lm is 1.93 times the base 114 lm. The chart cuts off at 700mA, so its a rough guess. But at 700mA, the XP-E puts out 175% of base, which is 1.75*114 lm for an R2, = 200 lm. Anything over 200 lm is overdriven.

Ugh, this isn't helping to keep the thread focussed on the original question.
 

Zeruel

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How about a Zebralight H60W? Aside from it being kinda small, I think it would fit most of your requirements.

-Robert

This is the first light that came to mind too. In a lab, you don't really need a thrower, do you?
 

Xe54

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Solarforce L2 18650 with a R2 dropin isn't too expensive at about $40 for the whole set including a battery and charger.

That is very inexpensive, which could be very helpful in convincing the whole group of 8 scientists to buy these things. I wouldn't mind a standardized system.

What is most interesting about these Solarforce lights is that they have incandescents available as well.

Solarforce mentions that a new IH-1 (Xenon bulb module) for a single 18650 cell is available. I wonder, is this a regulated xenon driver? If so, that would be extremely sweet, for applications needing the 100 CRI of a real lightbulb.

Do any other brands offer xenon/LED exchangeability?
 

StarHalo

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You might consider a 1xAA format light - using a rechargeable NiMH cell, there's no way to overdrive one of these, so you can safely leave the light on at any output level. The NiMH battery is much safer during recharging, does not require constant multimeter checking to prevent overdischarge, and is much cheaper and easier to come by (plus in the event of an emergency, any AA-sized cell from any other battery-powered item in the area can power the light, not an option with 18650.)

A 1xAA light is smaller than an 18650 model, and you're looking at a max output of 130-140 lumens, but there's a broad range of models and features to choose from, and they very rarely go near the upper end of your price scale.
 

Xe54

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This is the first light that came to mind too. In a lab, you don't really need a thrower, do you?

Not a thrower, but neither a flood. A nice gaussian is best. There are times we want to shine the light through an optical window 6-12 inches from the light, with about 1-2 sq. in. clear aperture area, onto a target region 0-6 in. behind the window. So an oversized head/beam won't help there. Other times, direct lighting of various stuff over a range of indoor, living-room distances. Other times through a 2-3 ft. path bouncing up a mirror with about 2-3" clear aperture, into a chamber.
 

Xe54

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You might consider a 1xAA format light - using a rechargeable NiMH cell, there's no way to overdrive one of these, so you can safely leave the light on at any output level. The NiMH battery is much safer during recharging, does not require constant multimeter checking to prevent overdischarge, and is much cheaper and easier to come by (plus in the event of an emergency, any AA-sized cell from any other battery-powered item in the area can power the light, not an option with 18650.)

A 1xAA light is smaller than an 18650 model, and you're looking at a max output of 130-140 lumens, but there's a broad range of models and features to choose from, and they very rarely go near the upper end of your price scale.

I have considered this quite carefully. A single cell has the advantage of no balancing issues, which is why I prefer to stay there. All of my experience with the use of more than a single NiMH has been plagued by trouble due to cell voltage reversal when one peters out and the other is still pushing current. If I did go with NiMH, it might be better to have 2 cells for greater capacity, and a bit larger size to the light. Single AA lights are a bit too small.

That's why I like 18650. In single cell, it has the most capacity. As well as fitting generally larger lights than the typical slender AA formats. A light with a head wider than the body stands easily. We usually stand our lights on the head so they stick up and are easy to find/grab.

Is the over-discharge issue truly significant with protected Li-ion cells? My sense is that with a charger that is sure to cut off when fully charged, and a protected cell, that the hazard of using protected bare cells is no greater than what we accept with proprietary Li-ion packs such as in our cell phones, etc.
 

StarHalo

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Is the over-discharge issue truly significant with protected Li-ion cells?

Very much so, since they usually won't cut off until 3 volts; a Li-Ion cell starts getting damaged below 3.6 volts, and the longer you leave it below that voltage, the more damage is done. Plus not all chargers cut off at the proper voltage, many continue to trickle charge as long as they're on, which is pretty much guaranteed to cause an explosion over a long enough period of time.

I understand your size concerns, but "laboratory" and "Li-Ion" don't really go together in my mind.
 
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