Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

[LuxLuthor]

It's refreshing to see someone try other solutions despite already having one you're very satisfied with. Were you still interested in experimenting further with Krytox, there is one consumer-available/small quantity product that I would recommend: Finish Line Extreme Fluoro. It's marketed as a bicycle bearing grease, but it is just a relatively low-viscosity straight Krytox nearly identical to the one I use (I have tried it).

I ordered this 20g one you linked. In part because of your suggestion, but also after looking at the link on that page to: http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_greas.htm which in turn has another very intersting link with photos and a well thought out testing process of turning a nut on screw under pressure.

Specifically note the topics of:

• What properties do we look for in a lubricant?

• How do we test lubricants? (Note caveat in red)

• Comparison to other lubes (Didn't see Nyogel represented for testing)

Thanks!

Edit: I updated my post above to reflect the actual lube after asking FiveMega what he uses (Sil-Glyde--see I shouldn't have assumed he used NyoGel). Interesting that even in the testing results of that Sil-Glyde link and the Sandsmachine link, they do not test with softer aluminum type threads, so it is hard to know how (or "if") steel stress testing has any relevance on aluminum threads.

[Gordo]

electromage,
I've been using XF-7 for about three years now. Good stuff. I like it because non-toxic, non-staining, action seems a bit slow (too much grease) but very smooth. It stays in place regardless of how hot it is. Does not effect rubber or silicone. No problems with any O-rings.
Becareful though, I got some on the parts of the flashlight body that are best left ungreased and there was no electrical connection. It was so small I couldn't figure out why the light wasn't coming on. It didn't even feel greasy.
Dawn soap and acetone to clean the threads. Q-Tip to apply a small amount to o-ring and threads. And you're good to go. Less is more but use enough.

Note: You can suspend it in 90% or greated Isopropyl Alcohol if the grease is too thick for your tastes.

[Gordo]

Add on:
Dawn soap and acetone may not be the best way to clean every part. I used it on the body but not the head or tail. There are a number of ways to get clean. Proceed at you own discression.

[LuxLuthor]

Dawn soap and acetone may not be the best way to clean every part.

LOL! That sounds like a wonderful combination to splash into your eyes.

[csshih]

I gotta get more acetone.. anyone know where to get that stuff?

I've actually been using CRC heavy duty silicone spray as a cleaner -- the carrier for the silicone is acetone, and it helps get the grime off, and leave a tiny bit ofl lubricant. I then coat it with my lube of choice.

[darkzero]

I gotta get more acetone.. anyone know where to get that stuff?

Any good sized hardware store should carry it, in the paint section by the paint thinners, mineral spirits, denatured alcohol, etc. And of course the standard nail polish remover is acetone based which can be found at most grocery & drug stores.

[Gordo]

Lux,
lol...I hope no one tries to use acetone for personal hygine.
I've washed my hands with acetone to remove goo but only on very tenacious goo.
For those that have experienced a prolonged oxygen deficit...Nitrile gloves under silicone over mitts and scuba mask under a full face shield. In fact, wear a silicone apron over a bullet-proof vest when attempting to clean your flashlight.


Really do you need to use acetone for cleaning something that only sees dust, dirt, sweat, mud, rain and occationally packing grease/oil. No. If you use clickies then theoretically the unwanted stuff should not make it past the o-rings. Twisties (in my opinion) can aggrevate migration of crud deeper into the light. No hard core research, just an observation. The crud in the threads can pass the o-ring. Crud on top of the threads get pushed back or into the threads.

*If anyone is a total spaz just stick to Dawn soap (the original)or Simple Green (or the like). Make sure that whatever soap you use does not have additives like scent, anti-bacterial, aloe, etc. They can leave a residue. [Warning Purple Power (and the like) are much more aggressive. They can damage plastic, rubber and discolor aluminum. Read your labels]

*Go to the Dollar Store and buy a handful of toothbrushes use them to get crud out of the threads. Inside threads (female threads) Turn the brush counter-clockwise (anti-clockwise for European torch owners) to encourage the crud to exit. Crud can follow the threads so out not in.


Then wipe with Iso-Alcohol to get that last bit of whatever and help the mositure evaporate. Use the least amount of oil/grease that is needed. How much is that you ask? Halfway between "not enough" and "too much".

I forgot to mention, if you don't know for sure the type of o-ring do not use acetone on it. It can be very damaging to some rubber, latex and plastic. Even plastic lens can be damaged. Unless you work in a very industrial/chemical enviroment you don't (probably) need it.

I've got shelves ($$) of stuff that I wanted to try and maybe I use twice a year. Typically I use a few items weekly/monthly for just about anything. The rest sit there waiting.

For flashlights you'll need to adapt your choices to your uses.
My Preferences:
Frequent Cleaning: Dawn Soap outside only. Do not take apart. Unscrew head and tail a couple of turns and Q-tip out any leftover crud.

Deep Occational Cleaning: Disassembled -- Dawn soap, 91% Iso-Alcohol, cheap toothbrushes, Q-tips, cotton rags (tee-shirt). Do not soap and water the electronics. Iso-Alcohol the contact points only.

Dielectric/anti-seize grease on the rarely moving parts. [screw-in pills, non-focusing heads]. If my understanding of dielectric/anti seize is right it was not made for moving parts. High temp tolerance, waterproof, doesn't interfere with electrical conduction on touching parts, chemically inert.
XF-7 (personal preference) on the frequently moving parts (battery access, focusable heads).
O-rings around the lens and other parts: either, leaning towards dielectric/anti-seize.
Years worth of cleaning and lube for $25. Not counting shipping or tax.

XF-7 $12.99
DiElectric/Anti-Seize $ 5.99-$8.99
Iso-Alcohol $ 1.89
Q-Tips $2.49
cheap toothbrush two for a $1.00

[Tekno_Cowboy]

Does anyone have a link to the manufacturer's website for the XF-7?

[Nano-Oil.com]

Does anyone have a link to the manufacturer's website for the XF-7?

Hello Tekno_Cowboy,
I have spoken to them in the past, they are in Arizona, but as far as I know they do not have a website unless something has changed,
Their phone number is (928) 772-3021
Thanks a lot, what a great thread you started.

[Tekno_Cowboy]

Thanks for the info Christian

On a different note, I'm looking to pick up a 2oz tube of GPL223 grease on Monday for comparison against GPL226, and was wondering if anyone would be interested in splitting it with me. The only condition would be that you'd need to post your opinion of it in this thread.

IIRC I can get about 4 syringes out of it, so up to 3 people would be welcome. I would be happy to pay the shipping.

PM me if you're interested.

[Gordo]

Website links modified.
I think that this is permissable judging by other posts. If not let me know.
for information: http://www.mdtactical.com/mdlabs/XF7.htm

[Gordo]

Text removed. Apologies all.

[LuxLuthor]

Gordo, you may want to edit your post, as you seem to have missed BOLD Texting all occurrences of " XF7"...ya know....in case we didn't pick up its name from your sparse mentions.

ps) Maybe go for subtlety next time to imply a hint of objectivity.

[Gordo]

Oops. I missed a few.

Actually I copied and pasted from the makers post on another website, so I claim no credit or blame for highlights, bolds, typos, over the top salemanship, or the assination of JFK.
Next time I'll underline and italicize. Yeah, that would be more subtile.

But the stuff does work. Is it the right stuff for what you do? You'll have to judge for yourself.

Seriously, I would like to see a objective testing of products. Oil and greases. Kinda curious how one stacks up against the another. All of the friction tests I've seen don't apply to flashlights IMO. There is metal to metal contact but 1000rpm wheel and unscrewing the tail cap of a flashlight are very far apart.

For flashlights I see
Smoothness of the moving parts. bare metal vs. treated metal. Work needed to turn end cap one revolution difference Forcexdistance.
Water resistance (proofness) Put them on the bottom of a pool for a week.
Wash out. Run it through the dishwasher with no detergent. Water jets and heat only.
Migration (does it run out when exposed to heat. you could apply to the outside of a pipe or inside of a flashlight body and see how far down it slides in heat. Put in oven for an hour at 200 degrees. See how far down it moved.
Bake off. Turn up to 400 degrees for an hour. (Why 400? Purely ancedotal, someone said they measured their trunk temp on an AZ summers day and it was 400'ish.
Merely suggestions to provoke thought.

Oh and one more thing. XF-7.

[burntoshine]

does anyone know where i can buy some straight krytox grease?

thanks in advance!

[DM51]

Gordo, your recent posts contravene Rule 6 with the detailed content you have reproduced from a manufacturer's website. Please remove all of it. A link to the manufacturer's product information page will suffice.

[darkzero]

That's kind of strange that it wouldn't spread out well. The only time I've ever had that issue is when I didn't get the threads clean before applying the Krytox.

Before applying any new lube I scrub & clean until I can't see anything on the threads then clean again. After my experiment with adding a bit of nano oil to it I cleaned & reapplied again wiithout the nano oil. This time went on a bit better but was similar to my previous result. It's better now after working it in. I thought it could have been a film of left over nano oil on the threads as that's what I had on it right before but when I added a drop of nano oil for my experiment it helped it spread out.

I definitelt like the Krytox better than nano oil on McGizmo Ti threads. I still would like to try something a bit thicker though. I'd be interested in some GPL223 to try if you're still getting it. PM on the way.

[Tekno_Cowboy]

I wasn't able to pick up a 2oz of GPL223, so I'm just going to pick up an 8oz in a few days.

The dealer I go through was pretty interested in the forums, and I invited him to take a look at this thread. You never know, he might peek his head in

[Tekno_Cowboy]

I picked up some Krytox GPL223 today.

From what my distributor tells me, the GPL223 is smack dab in between the GPL226 I've been using, and GPL221 as far as base oil viscosity at room temperature goes.

I tried the GPL221 about 6 months ago, and found that it was a bit too thin for my tastes at 17 cSt. It does work well on o-rings though, and especially well on piston o-rings.

I've been using GPL226 for a while now, and I've been getting feedback that it's a bit thicker than many people like it at 822 cSt. I like the stiff action and "float" feeling it gives. It's one of the few lubes that makes my Ti lights as smooth as HA Al. It does get a bit thick for o-rings though.

The GPL223 I just picked up seems to be a nice compromise, at 82 cSt. It does a pretty good job on both threads and o-rings, and still retains a little of that "float" that I like with the GPL226. I've got a couple of other people that are going to try it, and hopefully share their opinions of it here.

[Haz]

I just bought a tube of Nano-Oil (Light 10 weight). The purpose of purchasing Nano-Oil is to try and find an alternative to the lubricant that doesn't gunk up on the threads.

From a quick observation, the oil reminds me of motor oil in colour and viscosity. I have used Nyogel, Molycote silicon grease, even petroluem jelly in the past, which generally appear clear or cloudy and has a gel like consistency.

After applying Nyogel, silicon grease or petroluem jelly on lights with exposed aluminium/titanium thread, the threads eventually gunk up with a greyish paste after multiple twisting and turning. The twisting action get's rougher over time and I normally need to clean the threads thoroughly before re-applying.

Yesterday, I cleaned the threads on a Fenix L1D and applied the nano-oil. The dispenser has a tiny metal nozzle which perfectly controls the amount of liquid coming out (I also bought the metal applicator as well!). The oil runs smoothly between the grooves of the thread making lubrication very easy. After lubricating all the threads, I screwed the parts together. To my surprise the twisting action has become much more smoother, without any resistance typically found when using the gels or grease. I tried the twisting action many times, but there are no signs of the grey paste developing or grittiness when turning.

To sum it up, i'm very pleased with the oil. It has exceeded the requirements I was looking for and performed exceptionally well on the flashlight threads. Although I think it resembles motor oil, I was tempted but I didn't try using my cars Castrol oil as a comparison. I assume the normal oil will not have the lasting lubricating properties and the smoothness of the nano-oil that many have observed from regular use.

[Tekno_Cowboy]

I ordered this 20g one you linked. In part because of your suggestion, but also after looking at the link on that page to: http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_greas.htm which in turn has another very intersting link with photos and a well thought out testing process of turning a nut on screw under pressure.

I'd like to know how the GPL223 Krytox I just got compares to the Finish Line rebranded Krytox. Would you be willing to do a comparison if I sent you a mL or two of the GPL223?

[LuxLuthor]

I'd like to know how the GPL223 Krytox I just got compares to the Finish Line rebranded Krytox. Would you be willing to do a comparison if I sent you a mL or two of the GPL223?

Sure will. I don't know what the Finish Line compares to in terms of the thicker GPL226 (which is not yet "graying up" my threads on test lights.), and the GPL223.

[Tekno_Cowboy]

Thanks, I'll send it out in the next day or two.

I'm guessing that the reason you don't know how they compare yet is that the Finish Line you ordered hasn't shown up yet?

[LuxLuthor]

Thanks, I'll send it out in the next day or two.

I'm guessing that the reason you don't know how they compare yet is that the Finish Line you ordered hasn't shown up yet?

Correctomundo! I just ordered it as of that post on Sat evening 10/3...but now that you mention it, have not received email of shipment yet. I'll check with them today.

[bansuri]

Thanks for a great Sticky Thread! Got some SuperLube from the local hardware store, it's exactly what I've been looking for. Slippery, scent-free for a pretty good price. Loaded up a medicine type syringe for easy application and I'm good to go. Now my lights won't smell like a wheel bearing or ball joint.

[Tekno_Cowboy]

I'm glad to hear you found something that works well for you.

[fiftycalibre]

Got my Nanolube today, and I am VERY impressed. I have only cleaned and lubed my L0D and TK40, and the threads are so much smoother.

I had krytox on them before, but nanolube will replace it for sure

[darkzero]

Got my Krytox from Travis today. Of the four lubes GPL223, GPL226, 50/50 blend, & Nano Oil I like the GPL223 the best on my Ti PD. GPL226 feels too thick on most lights that I've tried so far. I think it may work great for very loose threads. I do have a use in mind for it though (not related to lights) so it will come in handy (Thanks Travis).

I don't like Nano Oil on any Ti threads I've tried, just seems too thin. The 50/50 blend works the best on my TB Ti "C" light. I pretty much narrowed it down & only used Nano Oil on anodized threads. The 50/50 works great there too.

With my preferences I've decided only to use the 50/50 blend & GPL223 on my flashlights (until something else might come along). Nano Oil won't be used on my lights anymore, only tools & knives. Parker Super O Lube is still my preference for use on orings even on silicone. Nano Oil works great on orings too but I have some applications where it makes it too "slippery" & this is unwanted.

[Search]

Which SuperLube product would be recommended. When I go to their website I have absolutely no idea where to begin.

You guys recommended the brand and I see over 20 different lubes

[bansuri]

Which SuperLube product would be recommended. When I go to their website I have absolutely no idea where to begin.

You guys recommended the brand and I see over 20 different lubes

The tube I got from Ace Hardware is:
SuperLube synthetic grease.
Item No. 21030

3 oz tube