Thoughts about the Clicky Pak.

...or at least, the one example I've actually held in my hands at this point.

1. The clicky switch feels much more robust than the cheap ones I'm used to. I could live with this, though I still prefer the PD switch above all else.

2. The combination of the outer O-ring and the dust cap make for very firm actuation of the switch -- moreso than is comfortable for me to use. I kee[ using my thumbnail to push the switch, which can't be good for the dust cap in the long run. Are there any softer O-rings or dust caps I can use? Glow-in-the-dark would be cool too.

3. I think I need to replace the forward clicky with a reverse clicky if I'm ever going to use a multi-mode driver in it. Is this doable?

Is your clicky pak one from the Aleph Mc-Mule run? Those were initially sold with a stiff plastic boot but Don later offered a softer silicon boot as an extra with the lights. I think the Ti McClicky paks come pre-installed with the silicon boot. If you've got the harder plastic boot installed, maybe you could try asking Don if he has any silicon boots for sale.

I agree with your opinion on the switch. The McClicky has the best feel out of all switches that I've tried - great switch.

I don't know the answers to your questions, but I do know that I love the Ti McClickie Paks. I own 2 of the single cell versions and I am thinking of getting a 3rd one at some point.

As of right now, I have an E1B head on one pak and I just received a TLS head today that I will try on the other pak. I'm thinking the potential 3rd pak will have to get a Ti head to match up; Perhaps a mod from MM or TB.

These paks feel perfect in your hand and the E1B head is hard to beat with this bad boy. IMO there is nothing like a Titanium clickie.

For those interested, Don still has some single cell paks available. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/202079


EDIT:
I received a VME Head today that I am powering with a M30F Drop-in. I originally bought it for my E1L to replace the green tint and ringy beam that came with the original light, but I think I'm going to put the VME Head on a McClickie Pak to give me one Pak with flood and the other Pak with throw (E1B head).

The TLS head I got yesterday will now go on the E1L body.

My clicky pak is made of nickel-plated aluminum, as is the mule head. I honestly don't know enough about his Aleph-compatible offerings to know what its vintage is, though not being titanium I assume it's pretty old. I dressed it up with some MAAS polish and let the tarnish start building up from scratch -- I don't usually like patina of any sort, but I do like the brownish color nickel gets as it tarnishes.

I don't know if it's a plastic boot, per se, but it's definitely not silicone. I'll have to bug him about how I can get an update. Does Don have any spare reverse-clicky switches too, or are those not used in clicky paks?

I traded my first Haiku for a 2-pak mcclicky (& cash) - you've probably seen this photo before - I run a 17670 (AW no label) and a milky Creemator head (E1B). Ano work by chip;


I REALLY like the 2-pak, like longer form factor of 17670 (or 18650).


Then there is the swap with Sundrop XR-U head on 2-Pak and single pak on E1B head)

Fyrstormer, definitely see if you can get the silicon boot for your pak. It makes the switch so much easier on the thumb.

Is the switch mechanism easily removed?

Your Mule is the EN Mule that were made maybe two years ago. I got one of the first ones and it did have a very stiff boot. Shortly after these were sold, he offered a free upgrade to the softer boot which I got one of and it made all the difference in the world for the ease of use of the light.
I do remember (I think) that Don made this offer for a limited time only but it couldn't hurt to ask him if he has an extra to give you. I"m pretty sure it's the same boot used in the most recent Ti Mcclicky bodies.
And there are no reverse clicky Mcclickies.
The switch is fairly easy to remove. You take a toothpick to remove the O-ring around the boot then remove the boot and unscrew the switch.

You can buy the silicone boots at the shoppe.

If there are no reverse-clicky paks, how do you cycle through modes on the newer lights?

Thanks for the link to the silicone boot; I just ordered one.

fyrstormer said:

If there are no reverse-clicky paks, how do you cycle through modes on the newer lights?

Thanks for the link to the silicone boot; I just ordered one.

Click to expand...

To select the levels you want, partially depress the switch to turn on the light (the advantage of forward clicky is you dont have to engage the switch fully to activate the light) when you have the level you want, then fully engage the switch till it clicks in.

roguesw said:

To select the levels you want, partially depress the switch to turn on the light (the advantage of forward clicky is you dont have to engage the switch fully to activate the light) when you have the level you want, then fully engage the switch till it clicks in.

Click to expand...

+1 :thumbsup:

This works whether the light cycles through levels by a short on or off duration. You don't latch the light on unless you need it latched on.

Interesting approach. All the multi-mode lights I've seen are reverse-clicky. This will take some getting used to.

Hey Don, any chance you or somebody could make an MC-E light engine for this thing? The Sundrop engine is nice, but it's not bright enough to be a floodlight, IMO. I know you wouldn't be able to get full brightness out of it on a single cell, but anything better than what a single-die LED could do would be worth it. I like the way my Jetbeam Jet-II can light up a small parking lot when I remove the reflector, but being able to light up a large parking lot would be that much better. :devil:

Hmm, all lights I've ever seen that where multimode, where in fact positive clickies. all surefires have them as well. Its much, much easier imho to not have to click all the way on and off.

Do you ahve a Sundrop or a Sundrop XR-U? the XR-U is a step better.
I'm making myself a MC-E, but when it is ready, I could show you

fyrstormer said:

...

Hey Don, any chance you or somebody could make an MC-E light engine for this thing? .... :devil:

Click to expand...

Yes, I can and have and I am certain others can as well. I do plan to make some but I am kind of holding off to see if a 3 speed buck converter can come to be. I think the MC-E driven at ~700 mA on a single cell is an impressive and useful beam in the XR-U head in its own right but I would really like to see the XR-U head on a 2x123 pak with the MC-E driven at 1.5 amp.

I am still trying to get my ducks in a row and some inventory built up but my present plan is to offer in addition to complete flashlights, some of the components separately and this will probably include some light engines.

McGizmo said:

Yes, I can and have and I am certain others can as well. I do plan to make some but I am kind of holding off to see if a 3 speed buck converter can come to be. I think the MC-E driven at ~700 mA on a single cell is an impressive and useful beam in the XR-U head in its own right but I would really like to see the XR-U head on a 2x123 pak with the MC-E driven at 1.5 amp.

I am still trying to get my ducks in a row and some inventory built up but my present plan is to offer in addition to complete flashlights, some of the components separately and this will probably include some light engines.

Click to expand...

:bow:

I don't really have any idea what the brightness of the MC-E is at 700mA, but I know Peter Gransee manages to wring 1500mA out of a single LiCO cell. Is that feasible at whatever the MC-E's input voltage is?

Something worth considering is that newer LiMn cells can push more amperage than LiCO cells can, albeit for shorter times. I don't think they are offered in protected format yet, mainly because they won't explode if you beat them up, but it shouldn't be too hard to put a voltage protection circuit into the light engine itself. They obviously don't take up too much space if they can be tacked onto the ends of individual batteries. That would also allow the use of unprotected LiCO cells for people who already have them, which would still be of some benefit because unprotected LiCO cells can push a little higher amperage than the protected ones can.

McClicky paks are the best feeling switch I've come across. I think it's because with all other switches (except the Novatac ones), I can feel various kinds of switch guts under the rubber boot. The McClicky switch feels like a nice solid button.

Wow, a 2x123 pak MC-E Haiku! But can we have a different 2x123 pak aesthetic?

fyrstormer said:

I don't really have any idea what the brightness of the MC-E is at 700mA, but I know Peter Gransee manages to wring 1500mA out of a single LiCO cell. Is that feasible at whatever the MC-E's input voltage is?

.......

Click to expand...

The buck/boost 3S converter I have to work with has a max output of 700 mA.

I received the McClicky pak yesterday. Lemme know when you've been paid Don. I love the finish on the clip. I'm having the pak coated with AlTiN. I was going to ti-nitride the clip also, but now I think not. What do you guys think though, should I do the screws or leave them as is?